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Thread: Frank's 818R build

  1. #121
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Where is the trailer? Fuel bottles, spare tires, etc.?
    haha one step at a time! All on the to-buy list

  2. #122
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    *Sigh*



    What's everyone's solution for this issue? Or is this a result of the engine I'm using/motor mounts? I was thinking I'll make a bracket that sits on top of both the reservoir and the engine, like a little bridge. That should keep it at about the same height(above the turbo) and allow it to bolt on without getting in the way.

    Or am I overthinking this?

  3. #123
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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    Craig (Mechie3) is selling a bracket to solve this issue. Essentially what you are talking about - a little bridge to push the reservoir off to the side. I haven't bought it (yet) but did see it in person and it appears to be an effective and simple solution.

  4. #124
    Senior Member billjr212's Avatar
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  5. #125
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    *Sigh*

    What's everyone's solution for this issue? Or is this a result of the engine I'm using/motor mounts? I was thinking I'll make a bracket that sits on top of both the reservoir and the engine, like a little bridge. That should keep it at about the same height(above the turbo) and allow it to bolt on without getting in the way.

    Or am I overthinking this?
    Mechie3 solution is very clean.
    I have a radiator hose the goes to the back of the car through the space where the tank was. So I mounted it on top the bar.

    degas.jpg

    Oh, and I overthink everything, my engineering nature.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  6. #126
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Get Mechie3's bracket like many of us have done. And, you'll be helping one of the most helpful 818 builders.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  7. #127
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Awesome! I knew Craig would have something. Gives me an excuse to get a few more of his parts...and a t-shirt

    He used to be a regular at the autocrosses I now attend, so I've heard a ton of good things about him and his meticulous work. Can't wait to get some 818 parts from such a respected guy.

  8. #128
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    Craig is missed at those events in CNY

  9. #129
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Some 818 work this weekend, and a bunch of truck work! Since it was so close to having no rust, we decided to repaint the hood to eliminate the very little rust that was on the car. Sanded it down nearly to bare metal, primed, and painted. This after primer coat #2 of 3:


    Also, DA polished the rest of the truck. Took some serious slime off of it. DA polishers amaze me every time. (you can see a little "before" of the hood in this shot... lots of little chips and rust spots forming)

  10. #130
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    So, while running brake lines, I realized that if I followed the manual, my aluminum panels wouldn't sit flush with the frame. Here is where I'm talking about:




    Instead, I was considering running them inside the passenger compartment, against the outside wall, like below. Anyone see any issues with that? Am I just missing another obvious solution?


  11. #131
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    I'd mock up your interior panels and maybe even do their final install before you decide on placement of the brake lines, clutch lines, and coolant pipes. You'll be kicking yourself at the amount of work you've caused yourself if you do it the other way round.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  12. #132
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Aren't the 'interior panels' for the walls of the R on the exterior? Mine definitely don't fit on the inside. That was a large part of the reason for considering running the lines inside.

  13. #133
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    Aren't the 'interior panels' for the walls of the R on the exterior? Mine definitely don't fit on the inside. That was a large part of the reason for considering running the lines inside.
    On newer ship dates the R came with exterior side panels that cover most of the cage, older versions did not have this and came with some of the S interior panles. I used the external panels on the inside and used anti-intrusion panels on outside.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
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    818R Build in progress

  14. #134
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    The interior panels I was supplied don't fit anywhere well. With my R build I ended up fabbing a few panels and altering others. Thus my suggestion that you sort the panels first, then route the lines.

    Now I need to see a picture of this new panel I didn't get.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  15. #135
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    On newer ship dates the R came with exterior side panels that cover most of the cage, older versions did not have this and came with some of the S interior panles. I used the external panels on the inside and used anti-intrusion panels on outside.
    Yup! I am however using the exterior on the exterior, as far as I can see now. And no panels for the inside. Unless there's a good reason, I just see it as extra effort and extra weight. Plus, the visible frame is badass if you ask me

    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    The interior panels I was supplied don't fit anywhere well. With my R build I ended up fabbing a few panels and altering others. Thus my suggestion that you sort the panels first, then route the lines.

    Now I need to see a picture of this new panel I didn't get.

    Here it is! It fits so nicely on the outside that I can't imagine using anything else.



    Even has a nice little spot for the lower rear and upper right corners to fit in.



    FWIW- we (my company makes auto-aluminum) always stencils on the non-prime side of the aluminum. Since the fiberglass will cover the outside, I put the prime (non-stenciled) side facing in, where a driver/passenger would see it (since the driver and passenger exterior metal are mirrored). I'm doing this wherever is possible with the supplied panels.
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 10-07-2014 at 09:16 PM. Reason: clarification on footnote

  16. #136
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    You lucky *******. That panel would have made my life so easy.
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  17. #137
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    You lucky *******. That panel would have made my life so easy.
    When did your kit ship? I wonder how recent it was that this piece was added. Seems they make the kit "better" as time goes on, understandably so. Hopefully this doesn't end up jacking the price up too much.

  18. #138
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Ran my rear brake lines last night, despite everyone's warnings (I'm sure I'll come to regret that...). Ran them on the inside of the frame instead of the outside. Excited how they turned out. Used the little rubber clamps to prevent them from rattling.




  19. #139
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    When did your kit ship?
    Date on the Red Card that was taped to my chassis: February 8th, 2014
    Fast Cars, Fast Women, Fast Haircuts!

  20. #140
    Member nuisance's Avatar
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    My build date was 3/12/14, and I got the panels
    John Huft -- #154 R

  21. #141
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    So, here is my idea for seat mounting. Kirkey brackets for my Kirkey seat with these pieces of 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes. Thoughts?






    Edit: I should say that I measured the height, and about 1.65" from the floor is great for steering wheel position, fine for visibility, and seems to keep the shoulders at ~15*. The center harness piece clears the frame. Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that.
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 10-08-2014 at 08:43 PM.

  22. #142
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    "Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that."

    Have you considered fastening the steel pieces to the floor?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  23. #143
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    "Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that."

    Have you considered fastening the steel pieces to the floor?
    " 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes"


  24. #144
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    That's essentially what I did for mounting my seats. Doesn't mean it's the right way, but it's what I did.

  25. #145
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    So, here is my idea for seat mounting. Kirkey brackets for my Kirkey seat with these pieces of 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes.
    Looks good, I think I'll do the same. My seat brackets only rest on the X frame on the floor in the back and at the middle, the front of the brackets are unsupported. This looks like a simple way to support the front.

  26. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearldrummer7 View Post
    " 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes"

    The NASA CCRs only require 1/8" steel or 1/4" aluminum. He's perfectly within that.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
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    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  27. #147
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    For my son and I, we need the seat as low as possible to keep our heads below the roll bar. We have 4 5/16" rivnuts in the "X" bars and 4 matching holes in the bottom of the Kirkey seat to match. Our seat is also bolted similarly to the top square tube in the rear fire wall. No seat brackets at all, Rasmus would be proud.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  28. #148
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    How/where are you bolting your harness lap belts?

  29. #149
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    How/where are you bolting your harness lap belts?
    I don't have a picture right now. I'll post one this weekend.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-09-2014 at 10:00 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  30. #150
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    I used the Kirkey brackets as well. I was able to line up the mounting holes on the inboard brackets with the cross braces in the frame. Then I cut the tops off the square tubing and welded the flat stock in flush to keep things as low as possible. I only had to do that on the outboard bracket to get good support. Rick

  31. #151
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drdracing View Post
    I used the Kirkey brackets as well. I was able to line up the mounting holes on the inboard brackets with the cross braces in the frame. Then I cut the tops off the square tubing and welded the flat stock in flush to keep things as low as possible. I only had to do that on the outboard bracket to get good support. Rick
    Wow, that sounds like a great idea. Any pics, Rick?


    Thanks for the replies, all. I think I'm sticking with it as-is for now. Going to run some bolts (4 per bracket) through the frame, and then separately bolt the brackets to the 2" wide steel. This will give me a little flexibility in terms of forward/backward mounting, I think. What's the ideal seat angle? Anyone have an idea? or is it purely a preference thing?

  32. #152
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Here it is! I actually don't -love- the angle it's at; I think I'll move it back a hair still. I took some pics of belt angles and such but they're all blurry. Seems like it's ~10-12* down on the shoulders, and nothing is hitting the seat. What do you guys check for the seat being in the right position? Pedals and wheel feel comfy (I did the wrist test on the wheel and it's perfect), I can see, and the harness clears/is at a decent angle. Anything else I'm missing?

    Mocked up (not yet tightened down; that cleaned up the non-straight part):


    And installed!

  33. #153
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    Hate to backtrack but if you use the side panels on the outside isn't there a large space between the firewall and the outside panel? Mine came with those outside panels but no inside so I cut them up and made the inside panels. Also my seat mounts818 interior 001.JPG818 interior 002.JPG818 interior 003.JPG818 interior 004.JPG

  34. #154
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    Hate to backtrack but if you use the side panels on the outside isn't there a large space between the firewall and the outside panel? Mine came with those outside panels but no inside so I cut them up and made the inside panels. Also my seat mounts818 interior 001.JPG818 interior 002.JPG818 interior 003.JPG818 interior 004.JPG
    I think I'll have to be a little farther along(rear firewall installed) before I figure out exactly what that needs. Is that the only panel you're planning to run there? Those seat brackets look good, and light.

    Did some brake plumbing. They're in good spots, I think. Used a rivnut to install the Willwood proportioner (with some McMaster 1/4's I had lying around). The ends do extend a little bit past the brackets. Is that a problem?



  35. #155
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    I don't really plan any side by side racing, mostly auto x and hill climb so an Intrusion panel is not high on my list. If the situation changes I'll add a panel on the outside.

  36. #156
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    I don't really plan any side by side racing, mostly auto x and hill climb so an Intrusion panel is not high on my list. If the situation changes I'll add a panel on the outside.
    Good to know. I figured that was the general "rule" with paneling.

    I was thinking of doing a hybrid inside/outside panel, much like Rasmus (yet another idea I'm hijacking from him....just like the Reddit karma).

  37. #157
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    Tons of work done this weekend. Transmission installed and coolant lines are underway. Brakes got some progress, too. Coolant line question for all you R guys with later build-dates- How are you running the lines through the front of the aluminum siding if you have the solid aluminum wall? Shown in my second picture below.

    Here's some pics:

    South Bend stage 1 clutch and ACT Streetlight flywheel installed


    Installing the trans


    Andrewtech transmission installed!


    Found a home for all my stickers!
    Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 11-10-2014 at 07:11 AM.

  38. #158
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Great progress!

  39. #159
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    I put anti-intrusion panels on the side and used the aluminum on the inside but I ran the cooling pipes down the side and used a 2.5" hole saw to cut through the 1/8 steel panel and also the aluminum on the inside and will also run the dead pedal to cover up the pipe so no one gets their foot caught and there will be some protection from a burst hose

    WP_20141026_006.jpg
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  40. #160
    Senior Member Pearldrummer7's Avatar
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    So, I was in Brazil for work recently and didn't get a whole lot done. Did brake stuff this weekend and ran into a little problem

    http://i.imgur.com/j7LUuyK.jpg

    So close, yet so far away. What does everyone recommend for this? Remounting the hard line bracket? Cutting up a "medium length" brake line and reflaring myself? Brakes look good otherwise.
    http://i.imgur.com/iib2CLg.jpg

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