Frank's 818R build

[Pearldrummer7]

Doing some wiring on the dining room table :lol: it's almost done!

IMG_1289

[wleehendrick]

Doing some wiring on the dining room table :lol: it's almost done!

You can't be married!

Do you respect wood?

[STiPWRD]

Doing some wiring on the dining room table :lol: it's almost done!

IMG_1289

I'm pretty much at the same stage, most of the trimming is done, just gotta test fit it in the car. Mine has been sprawled out on the basement floor the past 2 weeks

[Pearldrummer7]

You can't be married!

Do you respect wood?

haha! The Walmart wood is holding up astoundingly well to the abuse it's sustained since we got it a year ago. I'm extremely single, as shown by this picture.

I'm pretty much at the same stage, most of the trimming is done, just gotta test fit it in the car. Mine has been sprawled out on the basement floor the past 2 weeks

It's a good feeling. I've done a little test fitting here and there. Always more modifying to be done to the harness, though.


It's kind of stalling to wait for wheels/tires/warmer weather to arrive.

[Pearldrummer7]

The fronts fit great (17x8 +35)



The rears... (18x9.5 +38) aren't even remotely close. I measured quickly and need at least an ~8mm spacer to comfortably clear I think. Which is too much I think. I'm sure Wayne's mod (which I intend to do either way) will help with that, but not that much I think.




According to Rev F of the manual, I can run this size -_- That's what I get for listening to the manual!




Also, replacing the crap Subaru provides in the harness with heatshrink crimp connectors:



What's everyone else doing?

[Frank818]

Also, replacing the crap Subaru provides in the harness with heatshrink crimp connectors:

What's everyone else doing?

Tie-wraps and electric tape.

[Jaime]

Also, replacing the crap Subaru provides in the harness with heatshrink crimp connectors:

It would be better to pull the tape and put your own heat shrink over the factory crimps. It's hard to do better than machine-crimped.

I generally soldered and heat shrunk everything that I had to lengthen. I agree with many that a good crimp is better than a good solder joint. But, a good solder joint is better than a bad crimp and I'm good at soldering.

[Pearldrummer7]

It would be better to pull the tape and put your own heat shrink over the factory crimps. It's hard to do better than machine-crimped.

I generally soldered and heat shrunk everything that I had to lengthen. I agree with many that a good crimp is better than a good solder joint. But, a good solder joint is better than a bad crimp and I'm good at soldering.

Well, I'm a better crimper than solderer(what a weird word to say), so hopefully mine hold up alright! I actually slide heatshrink under the heatshrink part of the connector to further protect it. They shrink together very nicely IMO.



Alternator/AC bracket? More like alternator/fuel filter bracket! Anyone see anything wrong with re-purposing this to hold onto my fuel filter(as long as I have enough slack in the incoming fuel line to accommodate for the fuel filter moving with the engine)?

[STiPWRD]

You're probably ok but the fuel filter may dangle over time due to vibration. I think I'll be mounting mine to the frame.

[svanlare]

I really like the heat shrink crimps. I've used them extensively on several track cars, and when I start the wiring on mine in a couple weeks that is exactly what I'll be using.

[Pearldrummer7]

You're probably ok but the fuel filter may dangle over time due to vibration. I think I'll be mounting mine to the frame.

I really like the heat shrink crimps. I've used them extensively on several track cars, and when I start the wiring on mine in a couple weeks that is exactly what I'll be using.

Thanks for the replies. I'll have to keep an eye on how it holds up to being mounted on the engine. Heat shrink connectors rock!

So, it is snowy up here. Most snow I've ever seen on the ground, I think. This is a quick view out of our back door. We have feet of snow everywhere, and it's going to keep coming for the next week it seems.



I filled my transmission with some Motul 300, and it promptly started filling the garage floor with the same. I had to replace the passenger side diff bearing, which luckily my local dealership had in stock! (Romano Subaru in Syracuse is just fantastic, in case anyone was wondering). I marked the sundial with paint and counted the turns coming off so I could get the same depth as last time. Did you know that if you flip the little bolt-on locker (bottom right of sundial, with paint on it), it is half a tooth off? Word of caution in case anyone else ever has to do this. I found that a a 34mm socket works quite well. Also, don't remove both sundials at once; your diff will fall down and I think you'll make more work for yourself.






Also continued to test fit my wiring. I would like to put my fuse panel (someday to be a circuit breaker panel I hope) somewhere accessable. For now, this looks like a tentative spot, if space allows. Note the wiring is just mocked up here; I plan to wrap it and pretty it up a bunch more once I get it all to length.

[Pearldrummer7]

Installed my AOS today. Didn't trim the plumbing to size yet because I want flexibility in case the intercooler makes me have to rotate the AOS. Pretty excited about it! It's the Crawford V1, which (unlike the V2) doesn't have coolant lines running through it (since this won't be driven in the winter).

[Pearldrummer7]

So I put one of my ball joints in with the cotter pin hole facing the wrong way. And I can't seem to get it out. Anyone have any ideas? I had it in the vice and was rapping on it with a rubber mallet somewhat hard. I don't want to damage it.



Got my tires! Putting them on this week, if work permits. Pretty excited.

[Frank818]

Oh yeah, those tires are nice!

[wleehendrick]

So I put one of my ball joints in with the cotter pin hole facing the wrong way. And I can't seem to get it out. Anyone have any ideas?

You may have to resort to a pickle fork, but that could damage it. I think it's a relatively inexpensive Moog part, so not the end of the world of you do.

Got my tires! Putting them on this week, if work permits. Pretty excited.

Look good.. are those Dunlop's?

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh yeah, those tires are nice!

Pretty stoked! I've had two sets of the regular ZII's on my WRX. Love them. These are the ZII Star Spec, so supposedly "1% faster" and longer lasting. Time will tell!

[Pearldrummer7]

You may have to resort to a pickle fork, but that could damage it. I think it's a relatively inexpensive Moog part, so not the end of the world of you do.



Look good.. are those Dunlop's?

Yes they are! Dunlop Direzza ZII's. I had the Z1 Star Specs right when I got my WRX in 2012. Then got ZII's (twice now) and have been extremely impressed, especially in the wet. Very good for a street tire, and pretty cheap IMO.

[Pearldrummer7]

Once I get my arms back from Wayne she'll finally be a roller!

[mikeb75]

For your ball-joint problem, I had the same issue. Used a long 1/2" impact drive extension and a mini-sledge on the threaded stud. Needed to really shock the ball joint to get it to release. Pickle fork would be an easier/nicer way to go.

[RM1SepEx]

I used a pickle fork and wasted the boot, the ball joint was cheap

[Hindsight]

Balljoints.... I had the same problem. This removed them quickly without even having to remove the spindle bracket from the car: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

I got one at the local auto parts store. Autozone didn't have them but Advance Auto Parts did. Won't damage the boot and works fast. No fiddling.

[TouchStone]

Also found this gem of a coolant hose in Advanced Auto. It was $13 I think, and it's so long! Has some cool bend in it, too. I'm using this to reroute my coolant lines on the passenger side of the car.

Why did you route both coolant lines on the passenger side? I may want to do this as well but I'm not sure what the benefit would be.

[Pearldrummer7]

For your ball-joint problem, I had the same issue. Used a long 1/2" impact drive extension and a mini-sledge on the threaded stud. Needed to really shock the ball joint to get it to release. Pickle fork would be an easier/nicer way to go.

I used a pickle fork and wasted the boot, the ball joint was cheap

Balljoints.... I had the same problem. This removed them quickly without even having to remove the spindle bracket from the car: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

I got one at the local auto parts store. Autozone didn't have them but Advance Auto Parts did. Won't damage the boot and works fast. No fiddling.

I ended up using a pickle fork and getting it off pretty easily. They're awesome tools.

Why did you route both coolant lines on the passenger side? I may want to do this as well but I'm not sure what the benefit would be.

Weight distribution! I figure it helps offset the fact that I'm on the driver side. I figure besides me, there is steering and fuel filler neck, probably nearly offset by the extra exhaust stuff on the right. I bet left to right, with coolant run on the pass. side it's pretty close to even.

[Pearldrummer7]

AJW exhaust is mounted! What a beautiful exhaust! Huge thanks, guys. Waiting on installing the cat until I have the body mounted.

[FFRSpec72]

Looks good, I should have mine this week, I also ordered the "ultra quiet resonator", so we will see

[Scargo]

I hope you will wrap it really well. It looks nice but could potentially heat up a lot of nearby stuff.

[metalmaker12]

Looks good, I should have mine this week, I also ordered the "ultra quiet resonator", so we will see

I thought you had a jdm twinscroll setup?

[FFRSpec72]

I thought you had a jdm twinscroll setup?

No I have an EJ207v7 and the v7 is not twin scroll

[FFRSpec72]

I hope you will wrap it really well. It looks nice but could potentially heat up a lot of nearby stuff.

No much around the area, as its about 10-11" from deck lid, and just the transmission is there

[Scargo]

I have an oil cooler on the tranny of my STi track car; but then it has an internal pump... Doesn't it need love, too? I think radiant heat will affect the intercooler and most everyone seems to feel that the stock intercooler setup is marginal to unacceptable in the 818 anyway.

BTW, I have essentially three resonators on my STi. One's in the middle of the car. The two at the back of the car are supposed to be mufflers, but they are straight through 3" (everything's three inch). I cannot pass Lime Rock's 89 Db restriction without downturns on the two "mufflers". Perhaps punching out 400 WHP makes a little more noise?
89Db , not 68...

[Pearldrummer7]

Scargo- I wrapped the up pipe and headers, but not the turboback yet? Why wrap the TB? Heat to intercooler? I'm a little worried about noise. Hoping the cat helps quiet it out a little bit. If not, I might be running a loud exhaust on the street with a cat, and a muffler on the track. Kinda backwards! haha


FFR-I'm curious to see how much quieter the muffled exhaust is than the straight pipe vs. catted.

[Frank818]

That looks so mean.

[D Clary]

exhaust and trunk 001.JPGI wrapped mine just to keep the heat out of the engine bay. Also I had visions of brushing up against that shiny stainless when it was hot. OUch!

[FFRSpec72]

Scargo- I wrapped the up pipe and headers, but not the turboback yet? Why wrap the TB? Heat to intercooler? I'm a little worried about noise. Hoping the cat helps quiet it out a little bit. If not, I might be running a loud exhaust on the street with a cat, and a muffler on the track. Kinda backwards! haha


FFR-I'm curious to see how much quieter the muffled exhaust is than the straight pipe vs. catted.

I will be interested also, as I have a 95 db limit (most of the other tracks are 100 db) that I need to meet, my goal is to have a straight pipe and when I need it put the resonator on, so when I cut the pipe I will have the end flared out so it can slip back on and use a v-clamp to hold it on and add a tip if I need to (so I can reach end of car)

[wleehendrick]

Scargo- I wrapped the up pipe and headers, but not the turboback yet? Why wrap the TB? Heat to intercooler?

I think radiant heat will affect the intercooler and most everyone seems to feel that the stock intercooler setup is marginal to unacceptable in the 818 anyway.

I agree totally! The OEM TMIC has been shown to heat soak in the 818... and that's without a bare exhaust pipe below it. Without insulation, both radiant heat and convection (at a stop) will bake the TMIC. If you don't want to go AWIC, at least wrap the pipe and/or add a heatshield; your motor will thank you!

[Speedy G]

I'd put a stainless steel plate between the two, and put some insulation on the plate on the side of the intercooler. Convection and radiation of heat is definitely a huge problem. The alternative is to side-mount the TMIC. Ceramic coating the exhaust also helps both the intercooler and exhaust velocity which helps power.

[Scargo]

Ran across this photo this morning.

[Pearldrummer7]

Ran across this photo this morning.

Woah.

I mean, some steels will start glowing in the 850-900*F range, and EGT's can get over 1500*F...I guess this makes sense, but man is it crazy to see. Really cool pic, Scargo!

[Frank818]

What car is that from?
Totally jaw-breaking.

[Pearldrummer7]

What car is that from?
Totally jaw-breaking.

From someone on Facebook:
"Thats a pic i believe from tomei of japan testing differences between the ej20/ 25 with their header and arms turbo"