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About the bolt and the rack, what's the block? The bolt looks fully seated but on the pic it's hard to say the clearance on the nut side. For the street height you don't need to remove the rack. Is the race height located in the middle or top?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Race height is on top. The angled frame piece stops you from putting it in the same way that you can put in the street height bolt. If it goes in from the other side I'm pretty sure the rack needs to come out. Or maybe just the rod end/tie rod if you steer all the way the other direction
Ha!! That damn angled frame piece! I have had that road block MANY times in different places, especially the engine side due to my totally different proportions and clearances (for examples I have trouble bolting the Porsche inner CV bolts and trouble with my exhaust fitment cuz of the angled frame piece). I symphatize with you. Can't help much on the top slot but how is it shown in the manual? If at all. Do they install the bolt before the rack?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
And she's fully legal! Just got the plates and ordered the custom vanity plates. LOLDOORS is ready to hit the road! Except that it's in pieces right now....
Also got my bike permit for the GSX-R600 that I impulsively bought from a friend. Life's too short not to have toys, right?
Timeline of 818 legality:
11/13/15- Submitted paper work to NYS DMV (VS-103)
12/9/15- Got appointment with local field investigation station (Syracuse)
12/15/15- Went to appointment (in the pouring rain) and got a VIN
12/30/15- Local NYS inspection
3/13/16- 25th birthday/insurance coverage began
3/14/16- Got plates and ordered vainity plates (LOLDOORS)
??- First street legal drive...coming soon!
Approximate street legality costs:
Windshield: $700 + $110 (install)
Wipers: $185
Bumper: $30
Defroster: $20
Misc: $40
Cat: $110
Lights/markers: $25
Visors: $10
Tax + Registration: $975
Vanity Plates: $60
Sold parts: -$140
Net cost: ~$2,125
Street legal burnout? Priceless.
Last edited by Pearldrummer7; 03-29-2016 at 09:20 AM.
Congrats! Better wait to insure that bike until after that upcoming 25th birthday lol
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Hey FrankyBolt! Check that out, man.
2016-03-14 16.16.02_1.jpg
Plenty o' space if you just turn the wheel.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
To run R height keep in mind you will need to do some clearancing on the aluminum control arms, they rub the frame.
also if you buy the SPT arms they come with new ball joints so no need to buy new ones. just get new pinch bolts.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
If I remember correctly when I installed mine I removed the casting tap on the bushing mount to clear the frame. It is quick work with a belt sander or grinder.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
For clarity, and I know you know this Scargo, but others might not, the pinch bolt is the bolt that retains the ball joint in the knuckle.
I don't recommend anyone reuse the pinch bolts ever, they are usually in rough shape when/if you remove them and god forbid you torque them and they break, it's a huge pain in the ***.
Subaru part number is 901000060, they are like $1.25 so why not.
Correct, you have to take the casting flash and then a little more off too get a smooth movement and make sure there is no binding during bushing deflection. Plaven's thread shows the rub nicely.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post121570
Last edited by longislandwrx; 03-15-2016 at 11:46 AM.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Thanks for letting me know about the flange bolts. I just ordered some and will switch them out. Proper torque is...?
37ft/lbs
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
All good comments on the pinch bolts. I'll be replacing mine, too.
Here's the part I needed to shave down. It didn't look like it hit but no reason to chance it (weight savings, anyone?)
Spacers are made! Just need the torque spec on these bolts going into the control arm (can't find it anywhere online?) and I can start making spacers
184 on the big nut yes.
What I have gathered for the Front suspension with Alu LCAs and Wilwood Big Brake kit is this:
Front Suspension/rack
Transverse bushing nut 140ft-lbs
Transverse bolts to frame 184ft-lbs
Crossmember bolt to frame 70ft-lbs
Black transverse pin bolts 114ft-lbs
Tie-rod end nut to spindle 20ft-lbs
IFS bracket to spindle upper bolt 129ft-lbs
IFS bracket to spindle lower bolt 129ft-lbs
LCA ball joint end to spindle 37ft-lbs
Backplate to spindle 20ft-lbs
Wilwood Big Caliper kit bolts to spindle 47ft-lbs with Red Loctite
A-arms to frame bolts 100-110ft-lbs
A-arms pivot bolts 60ft-lbs
A-arm ball joint bracket to spindle 129ft-lbss
Axle nut to hub 162ft-lbss
Steering rack to frame 44ft-lbss
Steering joint to rack 17ft-lbss
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Awesome. Thanks again, Frank. I made a Google Docs (here) with all of this information. I posted it in its own thread, too. Should be a good resource for all of this suspension crap. Any more that you have that I'm missing?
It looks like you already had the rear suspension specs so the front completes all I got.
Judging by the number of times I torqued and untorqued these bolts, the info has been very useful already. Every time I torqued I thought it was the last time but no, I always needed to remove and I will probably again for some reason.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
We had to clearance the same casting marks off of ours. We went a little further by sanding off all the casting ridges. should have removed the sway bar mounts, but wanted to tune the handling first just to be sure we don't need a front bar.
Frankyboy, how thick are your LCA spacers? They are about 5mm to my eyes, is that correct? I am using 10mm thick, what are your expectations with yours? Gaining camber? Only caster? 1-2deg or aiming to 3-4deg gain?
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
They're 6.25 mm because I found a piece of steel lying around that was 75mm wide and 6.25 thick. Just had to trim the length and it was perfect!
I expect to gain caster for sure. I was at 3.5 last year and expect 3 more out of this. I think that's reasonable from what I read? I don't know if I'll get any more camber out of it. I only ended up with the spacer and flipped hurricane bracket. The mount I flipped back since it was so much of an angle (I couldn't get the bolt through the front bushing). I used a 50mm long bolt for what it's worth.
Busy weekend! Changed oil on 6 cars, finished up my front suspension:
Started the adventure of making my own bump steer kit (don't have the spare cash for a Baer one):
(the etched mark is the depth of the OEM threads)
And refurbished my steering rack (with some help in getting the tie rods off from the rust bucket!):
Also rolled the WRX fenders to fit my new Team Dynamics wheels:
They look great and the 20mm extra width (255 wide tires) is appreciated already.
Have you tried something like the Perrin PSRS Offset Bushings (I'm sure others make something just like them), as you flip them and these take care of the need for the spacer. You can get another couples degrees of caster and about a degree of camber out of these.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Installed the new oil pan/pickup tube. I also removed the oil heater per Glyn's suggestion. Made a hard line out of copper to bypass it.
Only reason the engine/transmission isn't in is because the shop forgot to send back my shift fork/throw out bearing with the transmission
Besides that, it's all ready to bolt in and do some street legal burnouts!
Frank - Build thread
Frank - Build thread
I am not. I haven't had hot oil on this car (or my WRX for that matter) and planned to design/install a cooler this winter but I was sick for ~6 weeks and am way behind on car work. I figured when and if I saw oil temperatures that concerned me I would figure out a cooling solution, but they were cool the first 4 track days.
Does everyone really think such a cooler is necessary?
Frank - Build thread
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Huh. I guess I was under the impression that the stock oil "thing" heated the oil up more than it cooled it off. I think the quickest and cheapest solution will be to run the stock oil "thing" for now. I'm super short on time before track season (spending the rest of the month in Asia) so I don't think I'll be able to get a new oil cooler designed/installed by then
Frank - Build thread
Frank, based on what a few buddies are running on thier track and race Subaru's and not having water or oil temp issues I just replaced the OEM water/oil heat exchanger with a new one. If I have oil temp issues I at adding a water/oil cooler in the radiator coolant line.
At my modest power level I don't anticipate a problem, we will see when we get to the middle of summer.