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Thread: NoVa 818 Build

  1. #81
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    I noticed the brackets were a little tighter too when I fit one of the new ones on my car. Not sure if it was just due to inaccuracies in my bending or warping from welding. Glad you got yours to fit and you like the kit.

    Jeff, my TD04 setup looks like yours. I make a bracket to clock the TD04, but no other turbos simply because I don't have any to work off of.
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  2. #82
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    That looks cool!
    Thanks Frank!

    Quote Originally Posted by sponaugle View Post
    Nice. Yea with an internal wastegate you are limited in how you can rotate the compressor cover. I have my current setup pretty much as Scargo mentioned:



    I had to order a few different silicone couplers, but in the end it worked out.

    Great to see your progress!

    Jeff
    Can't wait to see that monster out on the open road!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I noticed the brackets were a little tighter too when I fit one of the new ones on my car. Not sure if it was just due to inaccuracies in my bending or warping from welding. Glad you got yours to fit and you like the kit.

    Jeff, my TD04 setup looks like yours. I make a bracket to clock the TD04, but no other turbos simply because I don't have any to work off of.
    I have a feeling it was from the welding - just something to keep track of for the future. One other thing I noticed was that the angled 2" pipe we got with the 45 degree angle had too much of a bend so I just cut it into two straight pieces and coupled them with a hump hose. I didn't use a bead roller on the pipes I cut so we'll see if they start popping loose under boost (I've been there) but they seemed pretty tight.

  3. #83
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Looking good! Lots of progress lately. Will it run and drive this summer?

  4. #84
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Looking good! Lots of progress lately. Will it run and drive this summer?
    I certainly hope so but it kind of depends on how much free time I'll have after the baby comes. I used to have time goals for accomplishing things but after a year of missing the mark, I guess I'm not trying to set expectations anymore. It's a lot less stress this way. You'll probably be go-karting before I will, btw you still want that radiator hose?

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    I didn't use a bead roller on the pipes I cut so we'll see if they start popping loose under boost (I've been there) but they seemed pretty tight.
    If you don't have a bead roller at your disposal, you can make a bead with a pair of wire cutter/crimpers like these: http://www.zoro.com/klein-tools-diel...es/g/00055450/

    You open the crimpers, insert the tubing until it stops on the back of the jaws, then you squeeze down. It makes a single bump in the tubing. Move the crimpers 1/8" to the right and squeeze to create another bump. It doesn't look as nice as a bead roller bead, but it is functional and will serve the purpose of preventing hose blow off. It's also going to be hidden by the hose so no one but you will ever see it.

  6. #86
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    If you don't have a bead roller at your disposal, you can make a bead with a pair of wire cutter/crimpers like these: http://www.zoro.com/klein-tools-diel...es/g/00055450/

    You open the crimpers, insert the tubing until it stops on the back of the jaws, then you squeeze down. It makes a single bump in the tubing. Move the crimpers 1/8" to the right and squeeze to create another bump. It doesn't look as nice as a bead roller bead, but it is functional and will serve the purpose of preventing hose blow off. It's also going to be hidden by the hose so no one but you will ever see it.
    I was thinking of just splurging and just getting this one for $140:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodward-She...779179&vxp=mtr

    Wayne uses a nicer unit from Vibrant (#2990) for $290:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post174054

    If my hoses hold tight under boost I'll probably just hold off on buying one of these though.

  7. #87
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Update:
    We had a baby boy last week so finding time to work on the 818 has been tough but I've snuck in a few hours here and there. I've pretty much been trying to get the motor ready to fire up - getting all the hoses plumbed, nipples plugged, and fluids filled.

    Today I started laying in my dieted harness:
    IMAG1324.jpg

    Got the wheels mounted:
    IMAG1325.jpgIMAG1313.jpgIMAG1314.jpgIMAG1316.jpg

    Interior right before wiring:
    IMAG1317.jpg

  8. #88
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    IMAG1318.jpgIMAG1319.jpgIMAG1322.jpg

    I also bought a yamaha charcoal canister off ebay that fit prefectly on one of the back rails:
    IMAG1321.jpg

    At this point I just need to finish the wiring, mount my grimmspeed ebcs and I should be close to firing it up.
    Last edited by STiPWRD; 07-19-2015 at 06:38 PM.

  9. #89
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Nice progress! Your dieted harness looks pretty tidy.

    If you haven't filled your cooling systems yet - I have a tool you need to borrow. I picked up the uview airlift - creates a vacuum in your cooling system then feeds coolant into the system until all the air is removed. Took maybe 5 minutes to have an air free cooling system. I did it for both engine and AWIC systems. I can drop it off one day if you'd like to try it out.

  10. #90
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Nice progress! Your dieted harness looks pretty tidy.

    If you haven't filled your cooling systems yet - I have a tool you need to borrow. I picked up the uview airlift - creates a vacuum in your cooling system then feeds coolant into the system until all the air is removed. Took maybe 5 minutes to have an air free cooling system. I did it for both engine and AWIC systems. I can drop it off one day if you'd like to try it out.
    That would be awesome! Would tomorrow evening work?

  11. #91
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I'm on dad duty tomorrow but I will be taking my son to a dr. appointment at 10. I could drop it off at your home if someone is going to be around.

    Congrats on the new addition to your family BTW.

  12. #92
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Congrats on the baby boy! I have three boys and they are a blast :-)

    All the best to you and mom, Its the most important thing you will ever do with your life.
    __________________________________________________ _____________

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  13. #93
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Congrats!
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  14. #94
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    I'm on dad duty tomorrow but I will be taking my son to a dr. appointment at 10. I could drop it off at your home if someone is going to be around.

    Congrats on the new addition to your family BTW.
    Thanks! How about Wednesday, Thursday or Friday evening?

    Quote Originally Posted by Flamshackle View Post
    Congrats on the baby boy! I have three boys and they are a blast :-)

    All the best to you and mom, Its the most important thing you will ever do with your life.
    Thanks! I totally agree and can't wait to teach him about cars and hopefully do a build with him a few years down the road, maybe a cobra?


    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    Congrats!
    Thanks!

  15. #95
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Congratulations
    This is my son Michael Building an 150 HP AC invert for an electric car.
    mike 150 inverter.jpg
    This is Mike as part of the winning team at pikes peak. Fastest Motorcycle up the mountain.
    Mike and bob at Pikes Peak.jpg
    I'm Livin the Dream.
    It's your turn now.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  16. #96
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Congratulations
    This is my son Michael Building an 150 HP AC invert for an electric car.
    mike 150 inverter.jpg
    This is Mike as part of the winning team at pikes peak. Fastest Motorcycle up the mountain.
    Mike and bob at Pikes Peak.jpg
    I'm Livin the Dream.
    It's your turn now.
    Bob
    Thanks Bob, looking forward to it!

  17. #97
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I can stop by Wednesday briefly on my way through. That actually works out because I forgot to grab it on the way out the door today.

    I was considering a cobra build with my son as well in a few years. At 19 months he already loves to see what I'm doing in the garage. It's a joy that's really indescribable. Enjoy it.

  18. #98
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    That's some awesome progress, man! If you need/want a hand one evening soon (and I'd like to be there for the maiden start-up), gimme a call! Almost there!

  19. #99
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pikapp504 View Post
    That's some awesome progress, man! If you need/want a hand one evening soon (and I'd like to be there for the maiden start-up), gimme a call! Almost there!
    I've got a date with the soldering iron tomorrow evening.I've got a date with the soldering iron tomorrow evening. And metros will be making an appearance!

  20. #100
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    So once all soldered up, you going to try and start her up tonight? If you need help tracing wires, I'm not too terrible at electronics. ;-)

  21. #101
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I'm not that ambitious, after wiring I still have to scale my larger injectors and a bit of other fine tuning in the ECU. Also, waiting on a silicone coupler for my air filter. I'd guesstimate another week or two before I'll be ready.

  22. #102
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    Sounds good. Like I said, if you want some company and/or some help, you have my number; I'm only 3 minutes down the road, literally. lol

  23. #103
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I had a rather anti-climactic weekend - spent all day Saturday finishing the final details before my first start and thought I was going to start it Sunday morning. I was going to kart through my neighborhood while my ppg gears whined in the background... needless to say that didn't happen.

    The first stumbling block was the small battery I was trying to use (Odessey PC625) mounted in the front I think ran out of juice pretty quickly once I developed oil pressure cranking the engine over. It may have worked if I mounted it in the back (less voltage drop) but I'm keeping the battery up front for better weight balance. So I went out and got a properly sized battery from Advance auto parts, then it cranked over fine but still didn't fire.

    After confirming fuel pressure and checking grounds I grabbed the code scanner and pulled up a number of codes: P0108, P0118, P0122, P0183, P1086, P1088, P1094, P1096 (or MAP sensor, Coolant Temp sensor, TPS sensor, Fuel Temp sensor, and 4 TGV codes). This led me to start tracing connections in the wiring harness. I had a bad connection at a wire at the SMJ connector, which fixed the MAP code. Next I found out I had a bad TPS sensor so a new one is on order. The fuel temp and TGV codes should not prevent me from starting the motor so the only one left to fix is the coolant temp sensor (3 pin sensor located on upper cross over pipe and a huuuuuge pain to access). I had to dismantle the whole top end of the motor to get at it but it appears to not be getting an power voltage and the ground pin has a 6 ohm resistance to chassis (not sure if that matters). The actual sensor seems fine and similar to another coolant sensor I had laying around - both measure 1.66 kohm at 90F across 2 of the pins (supposed to be 2.5kohm at 20C). The FSM says this sensor should be producing a signal output of 1.0-1.4V but doesn't mention what the input voltage is supposed to be.

    My next step is to trace the wiring for the coolant temp sensor but I ran out of steam Sunday evening. Hopefully it's as simple as bypassing a connector on a wire like for the MAP sensor.

    On the plus side, I brought the 818 out of the garage for the first time. This thing is loooooow, the top of the roll bar is belly button height:
    IMAG1410.jpgIMAG1403.jpgIMAG1408.jpgIMAG1391.jpgIMAG1394.jpgIMAG1401.jpg

  24. #104
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Interesting, you're saying the smaller sized battery PC625 (which is quite used as aftermarket if I recall) can't hold being on the opposite side of the engine? Very interesting, it means I'm better off with my Optima battery then and shouldn't think yet of a smaller/lighter one. Tnx for the info.

    Bad grounds are often a problem, doesn't it's what you have but hopefully you'll find out soon.

    Pretty nice pix!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  25. #105
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Thanks Frank. Yea the PC625 cranked the engine over fine before the oil made it to the galleys but once id did, it died a few seconds of cranking shortly after. By the way, if anyone wants to buy it and mount it in the rear, PM me.

    I guess flushing out wiring issues comes with the territory of dieting the harness. :/

  26. #106
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    I believe the PC625 is good for a short cranking period. I read about it a while back and if I recall, it can crank with good power but for a short period only. Which might be your problem. One of your problems, actually... and you fixed it.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  27. #107
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Super clean looking engine install!

    Sorry the start was delayed; I'm running a small battery out front also; it cranks & starts the engine (for me); but certainly goes flat fast.

    I keep on a BatteryTender & had to get a charger on it during the dyno session.

    Good Luck knocking out the last issues before your startup.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
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  28. #108
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Very tidy engine compartment. I like the degas tank for awic. One of those, why didn't I think of that ideas.

    What'd you think of the ulift?

    Good luck getting it sorted. Sounds like you're well on your way to ironing out the bugs.

  29. #109
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    Super clean looking engine install!

    Sorry the start was delayed; I'm running a small battery out front also; it cranks & starts the engine (for me); but certainly goes flat fast.

    I keep on a BatteryTender & had to get a charger on it during the dyno session.

    Good Luck knocking out the last issues before your startup.
    Thanks Mike, I was hoping to keep the smaller battery but will probably just stick with the normal size one for less trouble down the road.


    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Very tidy engine compartment. I like the degas tank for awic. One of those, why didn't I think of that ideas.

    What'd you think of the ulift?

    Good luck getting it sorted. Sounds like you're well on your way to ironing out the bugs.
    The AWIC degas tank was sort of a lucky find on Ebay. I got it for $25 and it's a Canton aluminum tank with the 3/4 fittings I needed for my hoses. Apparently these tanks are 4-5X more expensive new.

    I couldn't draw a vacuum with the ulift greater than 5 psi, I think I may have a leak in the system somewhere or couldn't get a good seal. I'm hoping to find the leak once I get the engine running and finish bleeding the coolant. Thanks again for letting me borrow that.

    BTW, I fixed the engine coolant code! It was another bad connection at the SMJ connector. I'm debating on bypassing all the wires and getting rid of that connector entirely. My new TPS sensor should arrive on Friday so fingers crossed I'll get it started this weekend.

  30. #110
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Success!! #150 was officially started and go-karted yesterday!
    https://youtu.be/ZNoLwEZO3Bg
    https://youtu.be/3pIHFYZI4wY

    Overall, I'm highly satisfied with the sound - the 2.5 block/2.0 head combo, 264 crower cams, and megan headers really produce a distinct exhaust note. Also, I have to fine tune the idle since I probably over scaled the injectors (824cc) and it's running a bit lean.

    It turns out my TPS sensor was fine and all the codes really were due to bad connections at the SMJ connector. For anyone dieting the harness, be mindful of this connector as it runs several critical engine sensor, coils, and injectors. I hard wired all the connections and ditched the connector completely. As I went along I checked continuity at each pin and only 15 of 30 connections were good. Here's the culprit:
    IMAG1424.jpg
    This also allowed me to delete a large loop of wire and shorten things up by the ECU:
    IMAG1423.jpg

    By the way, the knock-off $15 TPS sensor I got was junk, I'll be returning it. It only had enough rotational angle to read the first 47% - learn from me, stick to OEM.

  31. #111
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Congrats! Sounds real good as is. Any plans on changing the exhaust after getting through registration?

    I may end up following your lead with the 2.5 block. Depends what everything looks like after tear down.

  32. #112
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Congrats! Sounds real good as is. Any plans on changing the exhaust after getting through registration?

    I may end up following your lead with the 2.5 block. Depends what everything looks like after tear down.
    I'm planning on replicating what Sean Keehn did with the dual exhaust:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attac...1&d=1427997120
    With the parts he listed, I can weld it myself for cheap. Eventually my goal would be to buy a tig welder and re-make it out of stainless. Also I would angle the tips so the come out lower to try and mimic Vman's rear end design.

    Are you tearing your engine down? I missed that. How was MachV?

  33. #113
    Member PleiadsMan's Avatar
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    Hey man I sent you a PM, I'm local to you and would Love to come check out your progress. Maybe share a few Tips!

  34. #114
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    Congrats on the first start and go-kart! I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with mine and I need to make up my mind soon. RE the pic of Sean's setup, if you don't need a cat, you could flip it over so the inlet is on the turbo-side for simpler routing with fewer bends. That's my plan if I go that route.

  35. #115
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PleiadsMan View Post
    Hey man I sent you a PM, I'm local to you and would Love to come check out your progress. Maybe share a few Tips!
    I sent you a text, come on by!


    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Congrats on the first start and go-kart! I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with mine and I need to make up my mind soon. RE the pic of Sean's setup, if you don't need a cat, you could flip it over so the inlet is on the turbo-side for simpler routing with fewer bends. That's my plan if I go that route.
    Thanks, Very true. If I keep the extra section of pipe, I'll have an interchangeable cat or straight pipe to swap in for emissions.

  36. #116
    Senior Member mikeb75's Avatar
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    Very Awesome! Congrats on the start and go-kart.

    Especially liked the small part that fell off when you pulled out of the garage (couldn't tell what it was), and since it wasn't needed -time to RAWK!

    Sounds pretty mean!
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
    BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
    BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits

  37. #117
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb75 View Post
    Very Awesome! Congrats on the start and go-kart.

    Especially liked the small part that fell off when you pulled out of the garage (couldn't tell what it was), and since it wasn't needed -time to RAWK!

    Sounds pretty mean!
    lol, what good is a shake down run if nothing falls off right
    That was actually the cap off of a bottle I was pouring water from - I forgot to take it off the degas tank. I was being ovely nervous that one of my wheels was going to roll off when I made that U turn though, can't wait to dial in the base tune and take it for a longer drive around the block. What a great weekend!

  38. #118
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    Congrats, man! Glad to see her running and moving under her own power! So...when does the passenger seat get bolted in? ;-) If you want/need a hand one day, just lemme know!

  39. #119
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pikapp504 View Post
    Congrats, man! Glad to see her running and moving under her own power! So...when does the passenger seat get bolted in? ;-) If you want/need a hand one day, just lemme know!
    Soon, I've been fine tuning my injector scaling and installing a few other odds and ends (wideband o2 and gauge, ambient temp sensor, bleeding coolant, tightening hoses etc...) I had to order a few more bolts for the passenger seat so they should be in any day now. I'll text you once I get the car running good enough to go longer than 0.1 miles.
    I also did a compression test and got 135-140 across all cylinders, this should go up slightly once the new piston rings are broken in.

  40. #120
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    Yeah, 135-140 on a fresh engine is good. Once the rings seat, you'll likely see pressures in the 170-180 range. Once the tuning is done, a few hard pulls and lots of engine braking, and she'll be seated.

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