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Thread: Wish 2B 33 building

  1. #81
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Very cool!

  2. #82
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    So I have a gift for you if you want them. My daily driver is a 2012 Challenger with the 5.7 Hemi. A couple years ago the side of an aluminum ladder was kicked up in front of me on the highway and it damaged my hood. They had to pull it off and repaint it and in the process they pulled the badges off the hood. I told them I wanted to keep the old ones. Really for two reasons.... First was to make sure they did not charge me for new ones and reuse the old ones, and second was just because they are cool.

    I really don't have a need for them so if you PM me your address I will mail them to you.





    Tim Sapp
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  3. #83
    Ol Skool
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    PM Sent Tim!

  4. #84
    Ol Skool
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    Wimped Out

    When I started this build oh so long ago I was of the intent that Hot Rods should not have air conditioning, automatic transmissions or power steering. I compromised on having a roof due to local weather patterns as I thought I would be able to swap between roadster and coupe easier than reality has allowed. After the maiden voyage around the orange buoys with 10" tires and 8 degrees of caster my older shoulders and tennis elbow protested a little. I also found I couldn't react as fast with a 2600lb rocket as I once could. Fortunately I had just happened to leave a convenient space for electric steering!
    IMG_20170823_115531_981 (361x640).jpgIMG_20170906_105426_622 (386x640).jpgIMG_20170906_105630_552 (640x332).jpgIMG_20170906_141020_343 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170906_171330_039 (640x409).jpg

    I managed to get the controller between the pedal box and the body which should be cool enough to keep it happy. Kudos to anyone that configure out what I used for the heat shield. Hint...most of you have one around the house someplace.

  5. #85
    Ol Skool
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    The above modifications use the Unisteer 220W universal kit, couplings, and a couple fresh pieces of DD shaft. I kept the original manual shaft intact as contingency. I may add the torque control later if I can find room for it and need more "feel".
    I also checked on applicability for my Gator. Guess what. I can get the same motor and the controller for $150 less for my gator with all the couplings, brackets, and shafts. Holy price gouging Batman! I do think it may take as long to install in my Gator as I have to disassemble half of the front to get it installed. I have 2 partial days invested in the fabrication and mock up on the Hotrod. Weighed against the other mods I've done on this project, this one was refreshingly easy. I hope to test it in a couple weeks.
    Enjoy,

  6. #86

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Kudos to anyone that configure out what I used for the heat shield. Hint...most of you have one around the house someplace.
    agh, don't leave us hanging. damned if I can figure it out..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  7. #87
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    The heat shield looks like a piece of stainless steel from a toaster or similar appliance. I made a heat shield for my vacuum booster from a piece of polished stainless steel that was the case of a small meat grinder that was junked due to stripped gears.

  8. #88
    Ol Skool
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    Close Dave! Its from a Gas Grille rebuild kit. Its the shield that goes over the burner tube. I have one over the starter and one on this PS motor. Made tabs from the same material with stainless rivets to mount it. Polished up easy with brown rouge on the wheel. I then line it with DEI tunnel shield so it should work pretty well and keep that header heat off the drive. I hate to wrap stuff in heat shield if I can get air movement. I feel the shield wraps work against us in some situations, like heat soak and time at temperature environments. A barrier between the heat source and component to protect deflects the radiant heat and allows the other side to move heat away vice trapping it. My theory anyway.

  9. #89
    Ol Skool
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    Gangsta Shots

    Entrance (640x285).jpgExitPlan (640x288).jpggangsta (640x375).jpgHemified (640x329).jpgLongNLow (640x323).jpgPortrait (640x372).jpgProfile (640x242).jpg

    Took some shots before the fenders come off .... again. Needs wider rear tires and smaller fronts for the full fenders. The Plymouth fenders aren't as wide as the FFR's. The unisteer kit is working great. hopefully will get tested hard next week end. I can get the side panels on and off without removing the fenders, but probably will make a smaller set of "skirts" and lose the side panels in the garage somewhere. I have to run Hood and full side panels at the cone chasing events so the car will have 3 different personalities.

    Keeping the South East in my thoughts,

    Brian

  10. #90

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    Love it!! Cool look. Like you said, just need to fix the tires.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  11. #91
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Entrance (640x285).jpgExitPlan (640x288).jpggangsta (640x375).jpgHemified (640x329).jpgLongNLow (640x323).jpgPortrait (640x372).jpgProfile (640x242).jpg

    Took some shots before the fenders come off .... again. Needs wider rear tires and smaller fronts for the full fenders. The Plymouth fenders aren't as wide as the FFR's. The unisteer kit is working great. hopefully will get tested hard next week end. I can get the side panels on and off without removing the fenders, but probably will make a smaller set of "skirts" and lose the side panels in the garage somewhere. I have to run Hood and full side panels at the cone chasing events so the car will have 3 different personalities.
    Keeping the South East in my thoughts, Brian
    Brian
    What width and backset are on the back now ?
    How much do you need to move out to hit the sweet spot?
    Looks like my wider 8.8 might be just right for that size rear wheel based on the way the wheel sets too deep in your fender.

    I love the look of the PHAT Plymouth front end.
    Dale

  12. #92
    Ol Skool
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    Dale,
    The rear currently in the car is an old Fox body narrow rear with 5 lug conversion axles and the FFR 11.65 discs. The wheels are those PRC replica's and I'm measuring backspace around 6.25". The wider 8.8 appears to be the way to go when you look at available 11" wide wheels and non custom back space. The PRC are 10". I put .25" spacers on just to get a little more inner body clearance. Without spacers and longer studs I need an 11" wide wheel with less than 6" back space. I haven't decided if I'm going with a Moser rear yet so this will wait for now. Fronts are 6" back space on 9" wide rims. With my extreme caster they bump the upper control arm on hard to lock turn. Note the manual says fronts should be 5.5" back space and rear 6" so FFR supplied wheels are a little more back space. The manual also recommends the narrow rear. Based on a quick search of popular wheels I would go with the wider rear to avoid spacers. I don't think I could get a 345/18 A7 on the back under the fenders, but possibly with the correct wheel. I was scuffing the corners of the rear fenders with those pesky cones due to driver break in.
    Going from a 10" wheel to 11" has a penalty in price and availability for both tire and wheel. I also have the rear suspension set so my pinion didn't need a "notch" in the 3 link cross bar. My tailshaft is about 1/2" higher than standard mount and my lower links are in the lower holes and almost level. probably should measure my Koni length and write that down.
    Front wheels for my fenders will need to be 5.5" back space, 8" wide, and 225/45 ish x 17. of course I want the 18X10 with Hoosier A7 on the front...
    I am getting closer on the look for the front. Left fender must have come out of a mold from a bent steel fender. I will revisit the grille when weather gets worse. I should have put more rise on the hood cowl, but it worked and gives the look of more rake. Hopefully I left room for a higher rise intake. I have a lot of tuning work left, but the next step is to get the NYDOT process done. I have been avoiding the door windows and you may have noticed the angle on the door handles. Much unhappiness exists with the doors.
    I think we should talk GDG into doing a 33 chevy...

  13. #93
    Ol Skool
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    IMG_20180106_134221_694 (361x640).jpgIMG_20180106_135753_181 (361x640).jpgIMG_20180106_140021_279 (361x640).jpgIMG_20180106_140118_153 (361x640).jpgIMG_20180106_140154_752 (361x640).jpgIMG_20180106_141011_255 (640x361).jpg
    Played with running boards a little today. My goal is to narrow the running boards for several reasons.
    1) exiting car with Kirkey seats
    2) Less leverage on frame supports
    3) Plymouth fenders are slightly narrower than FFR
    4) I like the curve I cut in the rear fenders.

    IMG_20180106_145529_226 (361x640).jpgIMG_20180106_145745_624 (361x640).jpg

    I originally was thinking build from scratch running boards, but, I may just slice the FFR boards. I'll play and ponder as time permits.

  14. #94
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    Love the look with all the fenders, cant wait to see it done. Great work!

  15. #95
    Ol Skool
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    1941-willys-coupe-with-model (640x419).jpg
    Apparently bench seats and no running boards provide a little more leg room for heels...

  16. #96
    Ol Skool
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    I apologize for not having more "in process " photos but I was doing this sporadically in between remodeling a master bath and trying to find where spring got lost.

    IMG_20180414_123926_788 (640x361).jpgIMG_20180414_124538_029 (640x361).jpg

    Not a complex process to widen the rear fenders, but, tedious to align, brace, and keep square while curing. I got too wide to put on my lite trailer though

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