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Thread: Wish 2B 33 building

  1. #41
    Ol Skool
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    Absolutely. I hope to mount the body in a couple weekends and start the second stage work. I may have to revive the cuda to have a cruiser this spring. I incorrectly arranged vehicles in heated and non heated garages before winter so my wife didn't do anything on the lassie truck and I ignored the cuda. Winter was so bad my son moved to Alaska. really.

  2. #42
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    Still haven't gotten to the body. I have played a little with interior work and started wiring. IMG_20150621_205914_751.jpg

    I moved the pedal mount about 1.5" to the right and the column about 3/4" to the right. Then moved the pedals back left half way.
    This gave me a little foot room for clutch and a foot rest.

  3. #43
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    Time to wake this thread back up. Construction season is winding down and I'll be back in the garage soon. Built a cabin, substation, and a couple other things on the day job, but didn't get much done in the toy box. Time to shift priorities...

  4. #44
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Question moved pedals

    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Still haven't gotten to the body. I have played a little with interior work and started wiring. IMG_20150621_205914_751.jpg

    I moved the pedal mount about 1.5" to the right and the column about 3/4" to the right. Then moved the pedals back left half way.
    This gave me a little foot room for clutch and a foot rest.
    erlihemi,
    Could you tell me how you moved the pedals to the right or show pictures of the process.

    thanks,
    Nevin
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  5. #45
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    Me in,
    I'll post some pics soon. Pretty straight forward. On the right side of the pedal box I cut the ears off to move the wildwood over. On the left side I welded a piece of 1" stock. I still drilled double holes to move the box fore and aft. The clutch will hit the steering shaft so offset that to the right of the bracket with spacers. I may still limit the travel of the clutch slightly so that means going to a larger master cylinder to get volume for the release bearing. Be careful here as you can blow out a hydraulic bearing so a limit bolt may be required. Probably this won't work with the mustang cable clutch.
    This assumes you can narrow or notch the tunnel. I feel like the column is centered better also. I am playing with the correct placement of a left foot rest but until I get seat height and lumbar support set that will wait. I still may notch the corners of the pedals also. My feet aren't that big so I don't know if all this is necessary but I want a 5 speed and cruising comfort. The Kirkey seats are nice but I don't know how a big guy could go with the next size wider. I can't get my hand down either side of the seat. I actually got the idea for the foot rest sitting in an 818 and my Impreza. Next car gets paddle shifters...

  6. #46
    Ol Skool
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    Post # 34 has a pic of the bracket welded.

    IMG_20150104_144242_568 (640x361).jpgIMG_20150607_165533_170 (640x361).jpg

    If your shoe size is larger than a 10 this may be futile...

  7. #47
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    Attachment 47065

    The orange piece is the foot rest. This can mount in 2 places. One next to the clutch pedal so you can just slide your foot off and hit the pedal and one about 3 inches forward for stretching out and cruising. I used 1/4" rivnuts to the tubing for mounting. Its just a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum angle shaped to fit.

  8. #48
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Attachment 47065

    The orange piece is the foot rest. This can mount in 2 places. One next to the clutch pedal so you can just slide your foot off and hit the pedal and one about 3 inches forward for stretching out and cruising. I used 1/4" rivnuts to the tubing for mounting. Its just a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum angle shaped to fit.
    Thanks for the info erli, I get the gist of the operation but I am apparently color blind as I don't see anything orange; oh I didn't see the attachment but after clicking on it, it says invalid attachment.
    I am itching for a foot rest also, I was thinking of doing a bump out to the left through the triangle part of the frame, still need to cut & bend the aluminum,
    we'll see how it comes out.

    thanks again,
    Nevin
    Last edited by H R Lucky; 11-01-2015 at 07:04 PM.
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  9. #49
    Ol Skool
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    For some reason this site insists on blocking me while uploading. In post #46 the piece to the left is raw aluminum. I may bump it out in the triangle also, but still need the box moved to the right to make sure my foot clears the pedal if I am in a hurry. Until I am actually driving the car I won't get it finalized. I'm pretty sure the MkIV is tighter so I'll look at those a little.

  10. #50
    Ol Skool
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    Actually post 42 showed it pretty well.

  11. #51
    Senior Member H R Lucky's Avatar
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    I see it, thanks again.
    Nevin, AKA H. R. Lucky
    33 Hot Rod sn 524 build started 3/18/2013, First Start-5/09/2015, Go Cart-6/01/2015
    5.0 Coyote engine, 9in. Ford rear, 4 Link, Wilwood 12in. front brakes
    AC, power steering, FFR 17/18in. Hot Rod wheels

  12. #52
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  13. #53
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    I like to sit high and have some layback on my Kirkey seat. So while I am not looking at the window frame I am still hitting the roll bar with the back of the seat unless I put the roll bar higher than designed. This creates interference with the hardtop. Yes I did try it with the seat low and a telephone book under my derierre, but the roll bar isn't high enough to do its intended job and I still couldn't find the sweet spot with layback.
    I probably will end up modifiying the waterfall and putting in a sunroof to see the stop lights, but darn it I'll be comfortable...

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    I like to sit high and have some layback on my Kirkey seat. So while I am not looking at the window frame I am still hitting the roll bar with the back of the seat unless I put the roll bar higher than designed. This creates interference with the hardtop. Yes I did try it with the seat low and a telephone book under my derierre, but the roll bar isn't high enough to do its intended job and I still couldn't find the sweet spot with layback. I probably will end up modifiying the waterfall and putting in a sunroof to see the stop lights, but darn it I'll be comfortable...
    EH
    Head vs rollcage;
    This is one of the topics I discussed at length with the creator of the 33 jim S. At SEMA we had a nice chat where I asked him what a 33 MKII would get IF Dave S ever gave the go ahead. Jim had some really interesting ideas front to back, top to bottom on the next car. One of the ideas I suggested to him was to stretch the hardtop back to the trunk opening and push the top of the passenger compartment wall back that 6" so a roll cage could move back a bit and have proper down-bars going into the trunk. FWIW I moved the receiver tubes outboard a couple inches on mine which also helps with the headroom issue you are having. The waterfall/battery mount/driveshaft clearance/legroom/headroom issues are all related to the design of that back wall and the hardtop shape which is why I nudged him to move it back and angle it steeper into the trunk if they ever redo the 33 chassis. Love the pictures, keep us posted on the outcome
    Dale Berry
    7Litre Hemi 33
    Last edited by myjones; 12-07-2015 at 08:26 AM.

  15. #55
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    Dale,
    We had a top ten list going on someones thread at one point, maybe we should just make suggestons thread. I doubt the volume for this car will justify a MKII effort, but, I have had some similar thoughts regarding roof line and trunk. Would it then look like a 35 or 37 coupe?? Would you take a well known steel repro body and put it on this chassis?? I feel like the 33 design was just practice in solid works and the 818 will be the golden child at this point. If I were solid modeling and created a front suspension like the 33 then my expectation would be a matching roll cage integrated with the frame and body. I also would make my fiberglass molds more production and assembly friendly for the application. I've had several thoughts on this and I just figure if I were to build one from scratch it will be production capable...with more configurability. The seat mounting and rollbar were clearly not well thought out given the use of existing MKIV parts. Once you modify you must continue to modify. If I had caught it earlier I would have made more significant tunnel modifications also, but, it will all work fine and run hard anyway.

  16. #56
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    I just can't follow directions...

    IMG_20160422_201632_713 (640x361).jpg

    I cut 4 inches out of the grille shell, ordered an off the shelf aluminum radiator that will only need one minor modification. This will be the only pic of this for awhile.
    PM me if you just gotta know the part #'s.

  17. #57
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    IMG_20160821_154755_813 (640x361).jpg

    Doors actually open and close now, Roof isn't visibly crooked, Kirkey doesn't hit the waterfall, AND slides back and forth without tangling up in the roll bar. Not sure if I will go to glass or more wiring next...
    Crap...forgot the trunk lid.

  18. #58
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    Save yourself some bodywork on that trunk lid shape and ditch the big hoop hinges as well. You get back trunk space and get gas props in the bargain.

    BTW
    How much headroom did you gain by cutting out the inner layer of the top?
    Dale 7L Hemi33

  19. #59
    Ol Skool
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    I have been considering different trunk lid options. Probably won't do the continental kit. Rumble seat is out. That leaves FFR hinges in the way, piano hinge to match theme B2, or other choice tbd.
    I was going for leg stretch and seat height so net head room was similar. By putting the bar in the " pocket" I gained about the diameter of the bar. I must have a pic someplace I can post. I still feel the roof has a slight twist in it, but I am getting body lines, and doors to align reasonably well for fiberglass. Drivers door required significant patience, perserverence, and persuasion. Not looking forward to glass.

    I'm far enough along now to begin NYS application for VIN and see where that goes.

  20. #60
    Ol Skool
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    IMG_20160830_204532_106 (640x360).jpg

    Its hard to see in flat black, but the bar could still go up another 1/2" if offset pad is used. I can still drop the Kirkey down one hole in the back. So I gained quite a lot of adjustment overall with the pocket in the roof. To go any farther back requires a telescoping steering column and moving some of the instruments to the tunnel. I did lay cloth back into the pocket to maintain roof strength.

  21. #61
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    Hi Erlihemi, Can't wait to see that grill finished.

    I am thinking of drilling a couple small holes and tracing some electrical into the upper back corners of the roof for interior lighting. It looks like from your photos the roof is hollow from the bottom base up to about 5 or 6 inches from where the headliner starts. Is that correct ?

  22. #62
    Ol Skool
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    The grille is difficult. I haven't found happiness there yet. In the photo it is just aluminum rods formed with an S curve.
    The roof is two pieces and hollow. It may be possible to fish wire from the front pillar over the door, but, certainly from the waterfall area. I would make a plug connection at the junction of the roof and body so it's easy to take the roof off later. Would be nice to have a map light up over the mail slot.

  23. #63
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    Thanks Erlihemi, I will look to place lighting either over the back window or off to the two sides of it.

  24. #64
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    IMG_20161023_171440_369 (640x487).jpg

    Next week I start the final bell housing marathon to fit the TKO on to the GenIII Quicktime adapted to the 1955 Hemi using some form of Hydraulic clutch ... buildvilletonshire .

    I had to stick a shorty PH43 filter on for now. Once the engine is home and the headers are staying put I can fit the HP-1 on it.

  25. #65
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    Got it set back in. I really have the tunnel tight.
    IMG_20170205_163533_549 (405x640).jpg

  26. #66
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    Doing the final radiator tweaks before I take it to the TIG welder. Lower outlet had to be moved over and angled up, but other than that its an off the shelf radiator. I will end up with the grille shell and radiator as separate units so either can be removed individually. I may even be able to swap the Konis out without pulling the radiator. Fan goes in front as a pusher.
    IMG_20170304_155554_990 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170305_114743_943 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170304_155519_919 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170305_114820_100 (640x361).jpg

  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Doing the final radiator tweaks before I take it to the TIG welder. Lower outlet had to be moved over and angled up, but other than that its an off the shelf radiator. I will end up with the grille shell and radiator as separate units so either can be removed individually. I may even be able to swap the Konis out without pulling the radiator. Fan goes in front as a pusher.
    IMG_20170304_155554_990 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170305_114743_943 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170304_155519_919 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170305_114820_100 (640x361).jpg
    .

    Nice to have the overflow pointing the right way. How much wider is the Plymouth grille?
    Dale

  28. #68
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    Dale,

    I haven't compared dimensions, just tweaking 1/4" at a time. The radiator core is actually the same size. The tanks are smaller than the FFR, . With the layback I can take the rad out the top. Without the brackets it can slip out the front so the shell opening is close to 17" at the top. The shell mounts outside the FFR brackets. I haven't fabbed a belly pan yet, but it looks like it can be a flat louvered sheet now.

  29. #69
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    The 33 Plymouth has officially come to life. First fire up today and it sounds great. A lot more work left, but, hearing the little Desoto Hemi fire up was a morale boost. I have to wait for a road run due to local conditions. I'm way past go cart at this point so it's time to get NYS application going. I don't think the tachometer supplied is going to last long as it only goes to 7000rpm and I'm running a solid roller. I think the Boyd tank has a different resistance range on the levelometer so all gauges and the dash harness are likely to get pulled later. Now that I'm committed to a Plymouth theme an interior design will follow next fall.
    No blown hoses, backfires, or leaks, so I'm claiming victory and a bourbon.
    Last edited by erlihemi; 04-30-2017 at 08:23 PM. Reason: Spellin

  30. #70

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    Hey before the bourbon, where's the video so we can hear it?!
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  31. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Hey before the bourbon, where's the video so we can hear it?!
    Sorry RR, you'll need to live vicariously through WRP for now! My audio inside the garage was horrible and all I had was the Droid.

  32. #72
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    Cutting and shaping glass fenders this week.

    IMG_20170429_174313_385 - Copy - Copy (640x361).jpgIMG_20170429_174418_235 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170430_131139_179 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170430_131813_382 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170430_134505_451 (361x640).jpg

    I probably will go with thinner front tires (235 max) and artillery wheels for the fendered version. This means no bicycle fender version for now as my 255's already hit the upper control arm on full lock. I have the FFR spindles with 12.3" brakes, but, the offsets and back space aren't happy with the bicycle fenders. With no fenders I want huge front tires so I'm already looking at 2 more sets of wheels and tires. That will have to wait.
    I took a lot of material out of the side panels so I can pull them off with the Plymouth fenders still in place. Made a "window" for the golden commando hemi. Car Looks better without the side panels, but, gotta have a bug blocker for the long road trip. Lots of wiring left yet also.

  33. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by erlihemi View Post
    Cutting and shaping glass fenders this week.

    I probably will go with thinner front tires (235 max) and artillery wheels for the fendered version. Car Looks better without the side panels, but, gotta have a bug blocker for the long road trip.
    You could make some side screen panels for the long trips and keep the open look, shame to hide the Gold.
    Any plans to change the back fenders for tire issues?
    Dale

  34. #74

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    Love that classic chrysler hemi gold
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  35. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by myjones View Post
    You could make some side screen panels for the long trips and keep the open look, shame to hide the Gold.
    Any plans to change the back fenders for tire issues?
    Dale
    Dale, this whole project is subject to change!! When I saw the steel body with the old stick I had to restrain myself from gutting a flathead panel truck. I've had thoughts of putting the rears on the front with Eibach spacers and getting monster Mickeys for the rear. I've checked 3 different engines and bellhousings for fit up. For now it will go to the NYDOT Inspection with whatever combination of parts are on it when I get tired of playing. It may end up in auto cross trim with Hoosier A7's, no fenders, no roof, or it may keep fat fenders and get softer springs.
    This build is loose as I've ever run on one and longer...time to get it on the road in any trim.
    Paint and interior next winter.

    BW

  36. #76
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    BTW, the choice of a steel body 33 or genIII coupe project may have to be determined in the fall...
    Looking for some more beta reports.

  37. #77
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    Apple Pie?

    I was on a roll Saturday, got interrupted Sunday, and then had one of those project halting spastic thoughts...again,. I was pie cutting the spare race weight hood to get body lines and belt lines and rake when it occurred to me that maybe I would like a kick up at the rear of the hood 1 - 1 1/2".

    IMG_20170507_115932_343 (640x288).jpgIMG_20170508_195837_872 (633x640).jpgIMG_20170508_195941_419 (640x361).jpgIMG_20170508_200249_737 (640x333).jpgIMG_20170508_202923_068 (640x361).jpg

    I think if I kick it up so its still below the window line it may do a couple things for me.
    1) allow taller aluminum intake
    2) keep the windshield defrosted
    3) Give the impression of more forward rake
    4) maybe some other operation benefit yet to be determined.

    Hard to visualize with all the tape, but, its getting in my head. I don't like the bug catcher look on this, but reversing the rise seems to fit the body lines.

  38. #78
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    SCCA1 (640x347).jpgSCCA2 (640x412).jpgSCCA3 (640x370).jpgHad a fun weekend, Got on a closed course and made a few slow runs. Motor mounts good, lower radiator hose worked, no leaks, brakes adequate, but, drove on the throttle most of the time. Lots of interest, comments, and curiosity. Common theme was I didn't bring enough tire...
    Couldn't run the fat fenders and had to have the sides on so it ain't pretty, but from the drivers seat it didn't matter!

  39. #79
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    W_driver (640x361).jpgWO_Driver (640x375).jpg
    Even with an all iron hemi the car is balanced. Fuel tank full and a passenger puts the rear at 51%. Lots of tuning left to do, but made 8 runs with no breakage, no hiccups other than driver induced drifting.

  40. #80
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    https://www.facebook.com/SNYR.SCCA.a...type=2&theater
    If the link works this is a painfully slow video. Not sure what happened to make a 35 second run into a 2 minute video, but hey , I was drivin not shootin...
    Roadracer asked for a video so here it is. Still needs a sound track.
    Last edited by erlihemi; 08-15-2017 at 07:04 PM. Reason: premature entry

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