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Thread: Help with engine cooling burping

  1. #1
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    Help with engine cooling burping

    I assume I have an air pocket that is causing the below.

    I cannot seem to get the water/antifreeze to flow, I assume I have an air pocket somewhere. I filled the radiator and tank near engine. I also tapped the pipe under the intake and routed it back to the tank in the engine area. I run the engine and it warms up to the point the radiator fans turn on, but the radiator is still cold etc. Let it cool down try again, it still does not seem to flow. Any help on how best to burp/bleed the coolant system would be appreciated.

    Thank you in advance for any help and suggestions.
    -Matthew

  2. #2
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    EDIT: The following steps don't work for an EJ2xx in a 818. Ignore my ignorance.

    * Take cap off of turbo coolant reservoir

    * Fill with coolant until full, then squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times until it goes down, it will be "burping" air when you do this

    * Repeat above process until you can no longer fit any more coolant in the tank

    * Climb into the car, set the heater controls to full hot and set the blower speed to its highest setting, if you've deleted the heater you can skip this step.

    * Start the car and let it idle for about 30 seconds, adding coolant if the level goes down. Shut the car off, and now squeeze the upper radiator hose repeatedly, allowing any trapped air to dissipate, allowing more room for coolant

    * Restart the car and let the car get close to operating temperature, the thermostat will open, and the coolant will circulate, keep burping the upper hose if you wish, just be careful not to touch the moving belts or power steering pulley. Keep the coolant topped off until it is almost warmed up

    * Shut off the car when you can no longer get it to accept any more coolant when the engine is warm, replace the cap on the reservoir, and fill the coolant overflow tank located on the radiator to the full when HOT mark

    Do NOT open the radiator's cap during any of this or after. You'll just let air in. Top the system off at the Turbo Coolant Res only.
    Last edited by Rasmus; 03-16-2014 at 11:51 AM. Reason: mea culpa

  3. #3
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    You essentially have to fill the cooling system and let out the air from the highest point when trying to get the last of the air out. Which for 99% of guys is the turbo coolant reservoir. Not the radiator.

  4. #4
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    While cold and engine off lol. You have to lift the radiator up with it full and it's cap closed and tank cap open till coolant comes out the top of the tank and coolant flow down to drivers side coolant tube. If coolant does not come out of tank add more into the tank and repeat till it comes out. It worked for me the first time. If you still can't get it pm me and I will send a more detailed list of what to do.

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    Thank you, I will give it a shot. Now that Baseball for the kid is in full swing I do not get enough time.....

  6. #6
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    If you have Mechie's relocation bracket, you can use one of these.

    8991d1341808826-high-temp-lisle-spill-free-funnel.jpg

    Then just fill it halfway and let the car run until you don't see anymore bubbles. Running the engine through the rev range also helps push it through the system.
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  7. #7
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    If you have Mechie's relocation bracket, you can use one of these.

    8991d1341808826-high-temp-lisle-spill-free-funnel.jpg

    Then just fill it halfway and let the car run until you don't see anymore bubbles. Running the engine through the rev range also helps push it through the system.
    Ditto, this system works well, I did not have it handy at the time so I had to do it the old fashioned way.

  8. #8
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    I do a mod to bleed all the air the first time you fill it. what happens is there is an air pocket that gets trapped in the motor that would normally go uphill to the radiator in the WRX. In the 818 the water outlet goes down and traps the air. You put in a barb nipple in the water outlet and run it up to the degas tank. If you face the motor from the seating compartment, you drill and tap a 1/8 NPT hole at about 2 O'clock position in the water outlet. Run a line from there to the degas tank and fill as usual. All the air moves up to the degas tank and your overheating problems will be gone.

    Brass barb fitting


    Hook to the left nipple on the degas tank
    Last edited by Wayne Presley; 03-16-2014 at 09:13 AM. Reason: Pics added
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    * Do NOT open the radiator's cap during any of this or after. You'll just let air in. Top the system off at the Turbo Coolant Res only.
    Ramus,
    I believe when there is a filler tank (burp tank) the radiator doesn't have a pressure release cap.

    If you have an aftermarket radiator,it's cap should be one that totally seals both in and out.

    With the way both radiator hoses are mounted down low in the 818, I don't understand how you can ever get the air out of the front radiator. Maybe stand the car on it's nose or have a bleeder valve on the radiator.

    Even if you did get the air out, the first boil would fill it back up with air.
    Please help me understand.
    Bob

    Edit: I wrote this before reading Wayne's response. But I still don't understand how to get the air out of the radiator.
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-15-2014 at 11:37 PM.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Ramus,
    I believe when there is a filler tank (burp tank) the radiator doesn't have a pressure release cap.

    If you have an aftermarket radiator,it's cap should be one that totally seals both in and out.

    With the way both radiator hose are mounted down low in the 818, I don't understand how you can ever get the air out of the front radiator. Maybe stand the car on it's nose or have a bleeder valve on the radiator.

    Even if you did get the air out, the first boil would fill it back up with air.
    Please help me understand.
    Bob

    Edit: I wrote this before reading Wayne's response. But I still don't understand how to get the air out of the radiator.
    You un bolt the radiator and hold it up while the hoses are connected.re fill the radiator while holding it up
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayne presley View Post
    you un bolt the radiator and hold it up while the hoses are connected.re fill the radiator while holding it up
    really!!!!!!!???????
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-16-2014 at 01:17 AM.

  12. #12
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    Or you can do what I did in my build thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    really!!!!!!!???????
    The mod I did gets all the air out of the motor, lifting the radiator gets all of the air out the the lines and radiator. Doing both will give you near zero air on the first fill.
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Reads like I've got a more to learn, clearing air-pockets from the cooling system of an EJ2xx in a 818.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallace18 View Post
    Or you can do what I did in my build thread.
    For the lazy: How wallace did it. Hint: how high can you lift the front of your 818?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    Reads like I've got a more to learn, clearing air-pockets from the cooling system of an EJ2xx in a 818.
    Do the mod and lift the radiator, no additional reading required :-)
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
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  17. #17
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I like Wayne's mod of adding a small hose from the top coolant pipe to the coolant fill tank. (degas tank or burp tank)
    I will add a bleed valve to the top of the radiator to facilitate getting air out of radiator.

    What I don't like about the system is:
    In that case fluid boiling causing gas (air) to form in the system. The radiator will not recover from this like standard automotive systems where the fluid is sucked back in from the overflow tank.
    Bob

  18. #18
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    My mod will continuously degas the engine and the coolant recovery bottle at the front will do it for the radiator.
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
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  19. #19
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    My mod will continuously degas the engine and the coolant recovery bottle at the front will do it for the radiator.
    Do you have a pressure relief cap at the radiator and another one the degas tank?
    if so, are they the same PSI rating?
    Bob

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Do you have a pressure relief cap at the radiator and another one the degas tank?
    if so, are they the same PSI rating?
    Bob
    I use the same ones the factory uses, each with their own recovery bottle.
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  21. #21
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    x2 on the Wayne mod.. Works AWESOME
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  22. #22
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    On my o4 forester XT there is no cap on the radiator.

    47775437.jpg

    On the 06 WRX there is 2 different kinds of caps.

    coolant filler.jpg


    reliefc cap.jpg

    If your system works well, that's what I'll do.
    Bob

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    I was able to get it cooling correctly finally. Thank you all for the suggestions and help. I had already done what Wayne suggested mod of tapping the top pipe, etc, I just took the overflow tank and temporarily mounted it off the top roll bar and used it to burp/back fill. I was able to back the car out of the garage and drive onto my sloped driveway and it cleared out some more air (pint of water maybe). Now on to the next part... I was using spare tires (donuts) to drive and I think my front left wheel bearing is not working well or the brake pads are not releasing cleanly because the wheel does not spin freely..... Thank you again.

  24. #24
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
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    Sorry for bringing up an old thread, I have another question. There is a hose that runs from the radiator to the filler tank where Wayne suggets connecting the new port from the crossover pipe. Can I add a T connection and connect these hoses together?

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  25. #25
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    You can
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  26. #26
    nkw8181's Avatar
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    When putting the barb in do you put it at 2 o'clock on the completely circular area where the tube goes? The area behind it doesn't seam to have a good spot.
    Nolan
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  27. #27
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    Yes you do, there is just enough material to support the threads
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  28. #28
    nkw8181's Avatar
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    So just behind the circular area and do I need to tap the hole or can I just drill a hole and use the barb to thread it in? I ask because I don't have npt taps.
    Nolan
    65 coupe Gen 3 "Phoenix" build
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...032#post297032

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  29. #29
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    YOu have to go to Lowes or Home Depot and pick up an NPT tap
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  30. #30
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    I tee'd the line there as well. Rather than tapping the water port, I used a fitting from a VW VR6 that had a small y offshoot. My engine was already in and firewall installed, so tapping was going to be a pain. I would have preferred tapping, and if I have to pull my engine in the future will do it then. Here's what I used instead: http://www.ecstuning.com/ES307174/?g...FSgF7AodmF0AOg
    Rich

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  31. #31
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    There are stainless versions available for $50-$60. 42 draft designs has one.
    Rich

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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Presley View Post
    I use the same ones the factory uses, each with their own recovery bottle.
    I am running "Wayne's" mod and have a degas tank in the rear for the engine tank and another in the front for the radiator/intercooler. My issues is all the coolant gets push to front bottle and not the rear. I feel that all the air is out of the system and need to figure away to balance this out. Please let me know you thoughts.

  33. #33
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    Tamra mentioned in her thread something about the cap on the radiator is a overflow only and won't suck back in. In the OEM config the overflow on the engine cap is T'd into the line feeding the bottle on the radiator. It sucks the coolant back in. Since they're no long t'd the radiator can push water but not pull it in and the rear cap has no reservoir to pull from.
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  34. #34
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    Whats the solution than? Should the overflow off the radiator be capped and rely 100% on the rear degas bottle for the coolant system?

  35. #35
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    Yes, that's what I did, just one overflow bottle in the rear. I capped the line off the radiator neck, and ran a burp line off the top right of the radiator back to the coolant reservoir, as is stock wrx, by the turbo (with an extra tee as it passes the water outlet burp line added via Wayne's mod) to help get any trapped air sent to the back where it can get purged.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  36. #36
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    I confirmed the burp lines, both Wayne's and the radiator, are working by feeling the lines get hot as the respective areas get hot. Wayne's burp line got hot as soon as the thermostat opened and started circulating. The long radiator burp line got hot once the radiator warmed up. I first followed Wayne's recommendation of filling the system with the radiator raised, but other than doing that, the burp lines took care of all air purging. Worked like a charm.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  37. #37
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    I've spent the last couple days reading thought all this, as I didn't know about the vent issues before I didn't install Wayne's cotinuous vent.

    I did have success elevating the radiator. Is usually uses ratchet straps and hooks in my celing to hoist the radiator up and keep it level. Doing this makes the radiator cap the highest point in the system again. Next I removed the air intake to get access to the radiator return line. I loosened the hose clamp and pinched the side of the hose by the end to let the air out, keep filling from the radiator it works great now. Temp gets up to about 190 idling then drops back to 178 and the highest temp I saw while hard driving was 207. Way better than the 248 I saw while idling before.

  38. #38
    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    I think it helps to have the whole front of the car lifted as well to help the coolant flow down the coolant pipes along the sides of the car. I left both caps off while filling until the rear level hit the degas tank. Capped the rear, then continued topping off the front in its raised position, capped the front, lowered the front, topped the rear. I felt leaving both open during the initial part of the fill would allow trapped air an easy way out, especially in those low areas along the sides. Seemed to work.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  39. #39
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    Hi All-
    IMG_4168.JPG
    Zero clearance for burp tank! Hope I installed the 06 WRX motor correctly.
    Any suggestions when I get to burping will be appreciated.
    Thx

  40. #40
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