My Daytona Coupe Build... Ten Years in the Making

[Carlos C]

Yes, I already have the Auto Meter gauges. I'll use them this time. So, I see that with the Speedhut gauges, just about everything can be customized. I'll look into the company later. Maybe, I'll use them on my next build. Thanks for letting me know about them.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

Well, there it is. The tail section is off the transmission. Cleaned the sump and magnets, got all the plastic shards out, and inspected the gears, forks, shafts, and bearings. No damage so far. Thankfully, and unlike the T5 tranny, the drive gear is made out of metal and not plastic. This means that there was no visible damage, and I don't need to change it.
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Besides that, I ended up painting the clutch fork, bell housing spacer, and speedometer sensor bracket. Also, I fabricated a block plate out of steel, which will cover the opening for the shifter, while I clean the casing.

Carlos

[Tom Mauldin]

Wow! I didn't know the drive gear was steel. That's a win!

[Carlos C]

Wow! I didn't know the drive gear was steel. That's a win!

Yes, I got lucky on that one. Otherwise, I would've ended up with a bigger mess.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

Ok, so I haven't done anything this week, due to being out of town. What I did do was to place a call to Tremec to get some info on my tranny. They were not helpful at all, so I called D&D Performance. Found out that the 23-tooth (white) speedometer driven gear that self-destroyed, is not a Ford unit, as Ford does not make a driven gear with 23 teeth. I also found out that it was unnecessary for me to have it, after calculations revealed that all I needed was the 18-tooth (yellow) counter-part. This explains why it was so hard to get my speedometer calibrated back then. They couldn't explain why they sold me the 23-tooth gear, 10 years ago.

Either way, I'm pretty sure that I already have the yellow gear; I just have to find it. I'm also sure that I have a spare speed sensor somewhere, most likely still attached to the TKO tranny, which is buried under a bunch of other boxes filled with Mustang parts. Once I'm back home, I'll be re-assembling and painting the transmission and scatter shield. The front tranny cover lip was the only part that was a rough cast, so I ground it down smooth, and is ready for paint. The whole transmission has been completely cleaned outside, and recorded the part numbers etched on the main and tail casings, just in case I need them later for troubleshooting or replacement parts, since this version of the tranny is no longer made.

One more thing I'll be testing before re-assembly is the reverse lock-out solenoid. I decided I want to keep it for safety reasons (especially during spirited shifting), so since I never had it hooked up while in the Mustang, I don't know if it even works. I'll have to run wires to it, along with a momentary button switch, which I'll probably mount on the pedal box (unless someone has a better idea). I was going to mount it on the shifter, but I need the room to mount the momentary switch for my brake lock solenoid. As anyone out there who has tried to put this tranny in reverse, while over-powering this solenoid could attest, you basically need both hands on the shifter (and your foot on the door) to do this. Eventually, the forks and/or the shifter can be damaged. Another mod is to replace the very stiff spring in the solenoid with one that's about half of its tension. I'd just have to get a machine shop to test the spring, and then find or have one fabricated to my specs.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

Well, after thinking about it for a while, here's where I am in regards to the reverse lock-out solenoid. If I place the switch on the brake pedal, I could potentially have two issues:
1. The chance of shifting from 6th to reverse will be there, if I do it while applying the brakes, effectively by-passing the actual reason the solenoid is there to begin with; and
2. The constant opening and closing of the circuit, due to repeated use of the brake pedal, would prematurely wear out the solenoid (and/or the relay, if I decide to use one).

There was a company that made an electronic switch that connected to the speed sensor, and closed the circuit when it registered <3 MPH. That product has since then been discontinued (not to mention that it was expensive).

So, I'm leaning towards mounting a switch somewhere under the left side of the dash. Although I plan to use a hidden battery disconnect switch, and the MSD spark disconnect switch, the lock-out switch may also help somewhat as an anti-theft device, in case I leave all others on.

Suggestions?

Carlos

[Carlos C]

No suggestions, I guess.

Well, this is my only progress report this week, and the last one for the next week as well, since my military duties are taking precedence for the time being. This will leave me zero time to work in the garage.

I spent all of last week working on the tranny, bell housing, rear end cover, and upper intake manifold. Inspected the tranny's gears and bearings, tested the sensors and solenoid, and painted the bell housing and other smaller parts.

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Tranny ready for paint.

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After paint, ready for re-assembly.

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Completed transmission, minus shifter.

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Completely finished the rear end. Did a two-color paint job on the housing cover, and re-assembled with the electro-magnetic hardware.

Once I come back, I'll finish grinding down the upper intake smooth, and then finally start on the engine.

Carlos

[Tom Mauldin]

Looks like you have brand new parts! Great job!

[Carlos C]

Thanks, Tom. I'm trying to make the kit look like a donor was not used... Not to mention that I'm a perfectionist, so building a car with worn-looking parts, is not in my DNA.

Carlos

[mjazzka]

First, thank you for your service! I have an uncle who was in the Coast Guard, and he tells me all kinds of stories about his time there.

Second, I just wanted to tell you I REALLY appreciate all the pictures and details you are putting in this, and your attention to detail is astonishing. This is making me think that a donor car really is doable with this kit, albeit with some extra work.

Side note: My high school's fight song was "Semper Paratus". Pretty darn catchy tune.

[Carlos C]

Ahh yes, Always Ready. Thank you for the kind words. It wouldn't be so much extra work if I didn't refurbished the donor parts, but I just couldn't see myself doing a kit that way. I still have so many more extra Mustang parts laying around, that my next kit will also be donor-based. Glad that you're enjoying the photos.

Carlos

[Russ Thompson]

Carlos, I have always been a real fan of going the donor route, it's a GREAT way to build the car of your dreams on a budget. I built my roadster in 1998 going that way and it was the best way for me to get what I never thought I'd own, my own cobra. I had great fun doing just what your doing, cleaning and painting what some people called used parts, I called them bullit proof parts and when finished looked brand new, just like yours!
Now 16 years later I'm still driving my roadster and it's been the most dependable car I've ever owned! :-) Not bad for a car built with "a bunch of used parts"

Keep it up, your car will be killer when done!

[Carlos C]

Thanks, Russ! There's a lot more work involved when using a donor, and although I chose to do it this way in order to keep the soul of a car I proudly built and owned for 16 years, I do wish I had started the process of overhauling the used parts much sooner, way before I ordered my kit. I learned my lesson for the next donor-based kit.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

I have not gotten anything done in the last three weeks, until today. Military duty kept me away the first two, and I was under the weather with a cold that turned into a throat infection this last week. Unfortunately, I won't be getting much done for the next two weeks, since my girlfriend will be visiting. The good news is that besides the few parts that need powder coating, and re-polishing the blower, all I have left to overhaul is the engine, which I placed on the stand today, ready to go.

I'll be replacing the oil pump, checking bearings, valves, springs, pistons, and rings. I'll also replace gaskets and the rear main seal. The block and heads will receive a fresh coat of paint. I don't expect doing any major work on it, as it only has about 3K miles on it. Just covering my bases since it has been sitting around for a few years, although it does run.

Today, I was finally able to finish grinding down the upper intake manifold to a smooth finish. One final turn on the parts washer, then an acetone bath, and I'll put it away until I'm ready to powder coat it.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

AND THE ENGINE TEAR-DOWN BEGINS:

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In the photo above, the engine is as it came out of the Mustang. Although it only had about 3K miles of use, it had been weathered from sitting around for a few years. The paint has been peeling off all surfaces (except the oil pan), with the iron block and heads exhibiting superficial rust. Even the harmonic balancer has rust on it, and this was supposed to be a stainless steel unit. Yeah, right. I'll submerge it in the rust bath, and if that destroys the finish, then I'll paint it black, and the markings white.

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So far, I've removed the lower intake manifold, all the hardware, sensors, and heater line attached to it, thermostat and thermostat housing, valve covers, and distributor. Lifter valley was immaculate, spiders were in excellent shape, rockers and valve springs look great, and all head studs and bolts are properly torqued down. I haven't decided to take the heads off yet. I'll probably borrow a borescope from work and check the cylinder walls and pistons that way. As long as I don't see anything that raises a flag, I'll probably leave the heads in place. The timing chain cover will be coming off to get a fresh coat of paint, and to inspect the chain (not that it needs it). The bottom end will be getting a new oil pump, as the current one has given me a few scares, and the addition of a windage tray. I'll also replace the rear main seal, as it had a small leak.

What most likely take the longest to prep will be the lower intake manifold. Just like the upper counterpart, I'll be grinding it down smooth. Not looking forward to that job, but it will look good once it is powder coated. Still haven't decided if I'll be using the EGR / EGR spacer set-up. If I don't, I'll have to plug the exhaust port on the head, and create a plate to replace the spacer. Many decisions to be made before the engine goes back together...

Carlos

[mjazzka]

I've gotta say, the rust on the header on the right had me just a little bit concerned about your springs and such. Without the valve covers everything looks great under there from here though. That block is black as night, geez.

What did you do to get yours to 358ci, buy it or get that work done? I'm currently deciding what I want to do engine-wise, and my goal right now is 500 hp for as cheap as I can get it. So the choice right now is either 302 stroked or a 351 (also possibly stroked). Since I will probably be getting a donor, I'll already have a 302, but I want it to last as a daily driver too... So many choices. Any advice would be appreciated.

Also, are you going to paint the engine once it's back together, or just the timing chain cover? I see you're powder coating the intake manifold, that'll look good.

[Carlos C]

It is a 351W bored out .030 over to achieve 358 CI. I had the machine shop do it for me. I bought mine stock from a '94 Bronco.

It'd be easier and cheaper to extract 500 hp from a 351W than a 302. With the right parts, you can reach that goal by stroking the 351 to a 427. With a 302, you'll have to use a power adder (blower, turbo, or nitro), even after stroking to a 347.

The whole engine, including brackets and accessories, will be getting painted or powder coated.

Carlos

[loeffler1]

You'll have to modify your hood for clearance on the 351 as the deck height is higher. My air cleaner on my 302 is about 1/4" to 1/2" clearance under the hood.

[Carlos C]

Hey Bill:

On the Mustang, the engine required at least a 3" cowl hood in order to clear. I figure i'd have the same issues with the kit. Thankfully, I have a mocking block, so I should have everything figured out before I ever drop the actual engine in. Most likely, I will have to over-size the hood bubble to make the intake fit. It will be just a little more fiberglass work.

Carlos

[loeffler1]

You could go crazy and do a dual downdraft 4 carb Weber system with short stacks. Does your mockup have heads? I've never seen one, are they plastic? Anyways, if they do you might be able to get the measurements to fit these. I mean it's only money right? You can't take it with you so you might as well enjoy it now. And what a better way than the coupe. That's what I keep telling the wife. LOL

[Carlos C]

Yes, it came with heads; and yes, it's made out of plastic. Well, polyurethane, to be more precise.

Although I'd love to go with a flashy induction set-up that catches your eyes as soon as you open the hood, I'm sticking with the one that my supercharger gets along with just fine, and helps put out an immense amount of power and torque... If it ain't broke...

Carlos

[CHOTIS BILL]

Here is a link to Speedway Motors where the block came from. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/P-Ayr-...lock,7447.html They also have many other types.

Bill Lomenick

[Carlos C]

I'm finally back in the garage this week, after a long hiatus. I've been working on the lower intake manifold for a couple of days, and it'll be a few more days before it's done. Just like the upper intake, this is not fun, but necessary to get a good powder coating finish.


Before surgery (rough casting)


Water neck ground down


Partial surgery completed with a die grinder and 80-grit flap wheel.

Once I get done with the intake manifold, I'll continue tearing down the engine.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

The one item I was missing from my T-56 was the pigtail connector for the reverse lock-out solenoid. You see, when I purchased this transmission 10 years ago, I had every intention to add this safety feature to my Mustang, but along with other things, it was omitted due to time constraints while I was building the Mustang. So, during the short time I drove the car, I had to slam it into reverse every time. Well, I decided that I was going to do it right this time around. So after failed attempts to find this unique connector from the dealers and auto part stores, I made one last call to D&D Performance, which is the place I purchased the Viper tranny and Mustang retrofit kit from 10 years ago, before I butchered an universal weather pack.

To my surprise, the owner of D&D still had my invoice on file, and after explaining my situation, he offered to send me this connector (a $40 item) at no charge to me. That was a very nice gesture on his part. All I had to pay for was shipping. Well, I received the part today, and it fits perfectly. It came with about a foot of 16 gauge wire, and since I'll most likely be installing the momentary switch on the shifter handle or knob using 22 gauge wire, that means that I'll be using a relay. I just need to find out how many amps that solenoid needs to run for the fuse.


T-56 Reverse lock-out solenoid connector pigtail

Carlos

[wallace18]

Good people like him keep customers coming back as well as add new ones.

[Carlos C]

Although I spent most of the day today making minor repairs to my motorcycle, I was able to get some work done on the engine, and check out some of the goodies I received yesterday while I was out of town. I removed and inspected all the spark plugs. While they were out, I squirted some oil into the cylinders, and hand-turned the engine. I was surprised how effortlessly it turned with just a ratchet. That's a very good sign. The one thing I regret not doing before taking the engine apart was a compression test, but with the small amount of miles it has, I'm not too concerned. Got the timing pointer and crankshaft bolt off, but need to get a puller to get the harmonic balancer off, so I can de-rust it.

The lower intake manifold is completely ground down and ready for powder coating.


Got some cleckos, gaskets, but more importantly, the dual radiator fans with shroud. This unit does fit like a glove to the Coupe's radiator, with the only issue being having to create two mounting tabs. But the dimensions are dead on, for being an Mazda RX-7 unit.


But now I have a dilemma. After I ordered this fan unit, I saw the modification that Fluge made to the Roadster shroud from Breeze Automotive for his Coupe, and I started having second thoughts. Although the one I purchased has dual fans, the shroud is very shallow. The one from Breeze is fairly deep, which helps move more air. Another concern is that I'm using the same 600+ HP engine that was on my Mustang. The Coupe's radiator is considerably smaller than the one on the Mustang, which had dual fans (also with a shallow shroud). This set-up on the Mustang could barely keep up, as the temperature would creep up to almost overheating if it sat in traffic. Although I'm planning to take other measures to help prevent this from happening, the fan set-up is definitely the biggest factor.

I need to make a quick decision as to which set-up to use. If I decide to use the FFR fan with the Breeze Automotive shroud, I need to return the other unit very soon, while I still can. I'll take suggestions.

Carlos

[wallace18]

I bought the Breeze shroud but had to use a different fan. The fan that came with my complete kit was too large for the shroud.

[Carlos C]

Hey Tom:

Here's a photo of Fluge's conversion. According to him, that's the FFR-supplied fan and radiator for the Coupe, and Breeze Automotive's shroud for the Roadster, which he modified to fit. I'm sending him a PM, just to verify everything. I'll post his reply. Thanks for your input.

Carlos

image.jpg

[Fluge]

Here let me save you a step....this was my reply to Carlos....

I did use the FFR supplied fan. I can measure it for you when I get home. I'm trying to recall what I may have had to do to get the fit that I have....which seems perfect after it was all said and done.

I did modify the bottom of the slanted aluminum piece. I think I ended up cutting the horizontal bottom portion off of that piece, pushed the slanted portion back and made a new reinforced bottom piece that tied the vertical portion of the slant with the other (elephant ear) aluminum piece. As I recall I did that so that the bottom of the fan would fit better in front of the slant. I added another more substantial aluminum flat piece under all that and an L shaped piece above it all. I had heard many complain about how flimsy that section was so I basically redid it and created more space for the fan in the process. There was a recent thread on fans and someone used a dual fan set up (summit Racing fans) that seem thinner than the FFR...see if you could use those. The Breeze shroud is very nice and easy to modify to fit the coupe rad. It's a little deeper than some others I have seen and the sides are angled which I would think would help with airflow. Done properly you don't see the cuts in the shroud. I'll have a look at the thread I did and see if I can find pictures to help explain better.... Was it this site or the other Forum?

Here...found these...I made the whole aluminum ducting modular such that I can take it apart if needed...hence the nuts on the back side of the lower piece...the bolts have been trimmed back since the picture was taken. I did tack on a small metal piece at the bottom. I couldn't get the aluminum to sit square and having used calipers to line up the ducting at the top I wanted everything to look as straight as possible... it bugged me enough that I added a little support.

I had to be patient with all this but I am happy with the result.

Hope this helps...









Marc

[wallace18]

Looks good!

[Carlos C]

Ok, let's try this for the third time. For some reason, my reply has not been posting.

Marc:

To answer your question, the photo and post I found were on this forum. I measured my fan and it's 16 3/8" in diameter at the round sections, and 16" even at the flat sections. Please let me know if yours has the same measurements.

Did you do all the mods to the aluminum ducting because they were necessary to fit the custom shroud? If you have any photos of what you did to modify the bottom of the shroud, I'd really appreciate it if you could share them. Thanks!

Carlos

[Carlos C]

Took the harmonic balancer off the engine, and with a wire wheel attached to the bench grinder, I gave it some TLC.

Before treatment:


After treatment:


The dilemma I'm facing now with this is that I'd like to keep this so-called "stainless steel", looking as such. Clear coat paint did not work (as reference, see first photo). Can't powder coat it clear due to the liquid inside the balancer. I'd like to somehow apply a durable clear coat, which will last years, and will keep this balancer from rusting. Otherwise, I'll have to prime and paint it black.

Hopefully, tomorrow the oil pan and timing chain cover will be the next to fall victim to my greasy hands. In the meantime, I have some of the hardware bathing on de-rusting formula, including the counter-weight for the harmonic balancer. I want to see what it does to this "stainless steel" surface.

Carlos

[Fluge]

Carlos

My fan is the same dimension as yours.

My car is definitely a one-off kind of build....because I can't remember how I did things!!?

The short answer to your question..."did you make the mods to the ducting to fit the shroud" is.... probably. I had already modified the base of the ducting to add strength to it but as I recall when I mounted the shroud, it was tight and so I redid it with the mod described above. It wasn't that hard to do. The width of the shroud is perfect for the rad so I just had to alter the height. I could have done a better job cutting and splicing the shroud back together....I just cut it into 2 pieces then slid one piece into the other and riveted them together. I should have placed the seam of the splice at the very bottom. Having said that you can't see it when installed in the car. As I recall I used aluminum L brackets to mount the shroud to the rad (with Nutsert fasteners). Once the shroud was riveted together I traced and cut the hole for the fan.

[Carlos C]

Thanks, Marc. I have to mock thing up and take some readings, and then decide what direction to take with the cooling system.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

Dropped the oil pan, and was pleasantly surprised to find no signs of sludge or metal shavings. Clean, clean, clean. Unfortunately, my concerns about the oil pump were right (so far). I placed clay on the pick-up tube and re-installed the oil pan. When I removed it and measured the clay, I had a full 1/2" of clearance. I shouldn't have more than 1/4" to 3/8". It doesn't help that I was using a stock double hump style 5-quart pan. I was losing pressure due to cavitation.

Upgrades will include a new oil pump, a 7-quart performance rear-sump oil pan, and a windage tray. The timing chain looks great. Tomorrow I'll start the bottom end inspection. Hopefully this weekend, I'll start stripping the block and heads off paint.

Carlos

[Carlos C]

After performing a bottom end inspection, I'm very happy to report that everything is in great condition; cylinder walls, pistons, rods, journals, camshaft lobes, and timing chain. I'll be checking some of the journal bearings before I install the windage tray. I bought new front and rear main seals, oil pan gaskets, oil pump, and timing chain cover gasket. The next step is to mechanically and chemically strip the block and heads and then repaint. I will also be ordering the windage tray and new oil pan tomorrow.

Half-way there.


Carlos

[Carlos C]

Today, I worked on the Coupe itself. I decided to check on measurements and potential fitment issues. Well, fitment issues I found, which I expected. I started by dropping in the polyurethane block and heads, and added the real valve covers, lower and upper intake manifolds, and oil pan. It didn't take long to see some of the forthcoming modifications.

Finally pulled the hood off the Coupe for the first time.


The upper intake, as suspected, is taller than the cowl. It is also wider than the hood bubble. This means that I will have to modify the hood to make this engine fit. Additionally, the use of the EGR valve is a big, resounding NO. The upper intake sits so tall, that the EGR actually hits the cowl. No EGR, then the EGR spacer is useless. I'll plug up the exhaust recirculation port from the passenger head, and fabricate a plate to go between the upper intake and throttle body, to accept the throttle cable bracket.


The biggest obstacle I barely averted was clearing the upper intake off the body. I can barely get two sheets of paper between the intake and the cowl, but all I'll need to do there is cut a little off the vertical lip to make some more clearance. That was too close. Otherwise, the cowl would have had to be modified as well.


Another concern is the scatter shield. It seems like it will be a very tight fit within the two 45-degree tubing at the rear of the engine compartment. Before I take the mocking engine back out, I'll test-fit the scatter shield, just to make sure. In the meantime, I'm still searching for the perfect oil pan for my engine. Summit doesn't seem to have it, so the search continues...

Carlos

[CHOTIS BILL]

For the engine height problem have you thought about solid engine mounts that drop the engine lower? For the oil pan try Levy Racing http://levyracing.com/ Give him a call he can set you up with the solid engine mounts and an oil pan that will work. Not all his stuff is on his web page. For a scatter shield won’t a SFI approved bell housing be adequate?

Bill Lomenick

[Carlos C]

Bill:

I thought about the solid mounts, but my problem is that I have a fairly wild cam. The engine vibration may make for an uncomfortable ride. I'll see if I can get them from the local parts store, and if I still have to modify the hood regardless, then there's no point in using them, so I'll just return them. If the engine fits with the solid mounts, I'll wait until the go-cart stage to decide if I'll keep them or not.

I'll try Gordon for the oil pan. I'm probably just being too picky, though. As far as the scatter shield goes, I'm using an SFI-approved steel housing. Considering how much power and torque this engine makes, I wouldn't feel comfortable using an aluminum bell-housing. The housing I have is the same that came with the tranny when I ordered it. I still have to bolt it to the plastic block, and check clearances, but it looks like it will be a very tight.

[Carlos C]

Finished chemically stripping the engine of paint. Next steps are to wash it with soap and water using a scuff pad, clean all the gasket surfaces, spray the whole engine with Ospho to convert all the rust to iron phosphate, wash with acetone, and finally start the paint process.

I still need to find a suitable oil pan, re-furbish the valve covers and timing chain cover.

At least the harmonic balancer is done.


Carlos