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Thread: My Daytona Coupe Build... Ten Years in the Making

  1. #321
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 65 Cobra Dude View Post
    I can see them fine. Nice work Coastie!!!

    Henry
    Thanks, Henry.

    Finally, someone who can see the photos. I was about to ask you to look into this. I was beginning to think I was the only one who could see the photos. I'm still not sure why others have a hard time with the images, though. If you know why, or have any ideas, please share. If it's something I can help fix so other members can see the pictures, let me know.
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  2. #322
    Senior Member Snowman's Avatar
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    I'm unable to see your photos either. Are you using the albums on the forum to upload your photos?

    I had a problem with that a while back I realized I marked my albums private, when I changed them to public that seemed to rectify my issue.
    Gen 3 Coupe #268 build: Project Lighting Coyote
    Powered by Junkyard F-150 Gen 3 Coyote that may have a Voodoo flat plane crank installed

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  4. #323
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    They don't show up for me either. I thought I was the only one too.

    I tried posting a link to your picture below here, but it doesn't show up:
    ------------------------

    ------------------------

    When I post a link to a picture of my car, I can see it:
    ------------------------

    ------------------------

    I don't know what is going on and why some people can see your pictures and some, like me, can not.

    I hope we can find a solution, because I'm interested in seeing your pictures.

    Thanks.
    -Matt

  5. #324
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtwarog View Post
    They don't show up for me either. I thought I was the only one too.

    I tried posting a link to your picture below here, but it doesn't show up:
    ------------------------

    ------------------------

    When I post a link to a picture of my car, I can see it:
    ------------------------

    ------------------------

    I don't know what is going on and why some people can see your pictures and some, like me, can not.

    I hope we can find a solution, because I'm interested in seeing your pictures.

    Thanks.
    -Matt
    Matt:

    I can see both, your Coupe (very nice, by the way), and the photo of my gauges which you re-posted. I don't know what's going on either, but I just set my albums to "public", so I hope that helps. Please check again and let me know.

    Carlos
    Last edited by Carlos C; 01-09-2021 at 11:47 AM.
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  6. #325
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowman View Post
    I'm unable to see your photos either. Are you using the albums on the forum to upload your photos?

    I had a problem with that a while back I realized I marked my albums private, when I changed them to public that seemed to rectify my issue.
    Yes, I use the albums to upload. I've always had my albums set on "private" and I don't remember ever having this issue with my photos, but I took your advise and set my albums to "public", so let's see if that helps. Let me know if you can see my pictures now.

    Carlos
    Last edited by Carlos C; 01-09-2021 at 11:52 AM.
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

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  8. #326
    Senior Member Snowman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos C View Post
    Yes, I use the albums to upload. I've always had my albums set on "private" and I don't remember ever having this issue with my photos, but I took your advise and set my albums to "public", so let's see if that helps. Let me know if you can see my pictures now.

    Carlos
    I think that did the trick! I can see all of your photos now. Time to go back through your thread and re-read a bunch of stuff! Thanks for looking into it, you're doing some very cool stuff.

    Cheers,
    Patrick
    Gen 3 Coupe #268 build: Project Lighting Coyote
    Powered by Junkyard F-150 Gen 3 Coyote that may have a Voodoo flat plane crank installed

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  10. #327
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Good deal! Hopefully, anyone else whom also had issues can now see the photos as well.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  11. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos C View Post
    Good deal! Hopefully, anyone else whom also had issues can now see the photos as well.

    Carlos
    I see them now. Thanks Carlos. Great job. Now I have a lot of re-reading/looking back to do.

    -Matt

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  13. #329
    Senior Member q4stix's Avatar
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    I can see them now too! Woohoo!
    I'll get back reading when I'm off of work
    Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder

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  15. #330
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    First off, I'm glad that other members are now able to see my photos. I have no idea when this issue started, as my images were not a problem before, even with my photo albums being set on private.

    The latest update is that a replacement hood is finally on its way to me. Hopefully, this one won't be warped. Ford is making a gauge pack for me to replace the one that came with my car as no dealer in the country seems to have this part in stock. I'm hoping that it will compatible with my car as it is made specifically for the EcoBoost and I haven't found anyone who has actually tested a 2020 gauge pack on a GT. On another note, and unfortunately, the specific racing stripes that I want are on back-order.

    I finally took the car on the road a few days ago and it's a monster. Of course, its first stop was to the shop to get an alignment. To my surprise, the front suspension was within specs, so they only needed to work on the rear. I then took it on the highway and opened it up. Even though it wears street-legal racing slicks, it still broke the tires loose on 4th gear at 55 MPH when gunning it while in "Sport +" mode. I still have to take it to the performance shop and put it on a dyno. I stopped by the dealership I purchased the car from, and it gathered a crowd of mostly employees. When I stopped by the dealer's custom shop (where Ford sent most of the parts), it also gathered a crowd. This is due in part because it looks like a GT500, but also because I've added custom-fabricated parts which sets it aside from your typical Mustang.

    Ready to terrorize the streets...








    There's only problem with these stabilizing rear fins I fabricated: they're too low. On the first day on the road, I scraped the ground on dips... three times. Thankfully, I figured this could happen, so I had previously made a secondary design after I had already installed the first. I'm now in the process of scrapping the first design (seen on the photo above) and fabricating the second, which is actually more aggressive, yet lower profile.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  16. #331
    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    Beautiful work Carlos!!!

    Henry

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  18. #332
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    I stated on my last post that the Mustang was ready to terrorize the streets. Well, not quite yet. Today, I took the rear bumper off (again), in order work on the second version of the fins. Additionally, I'm fabricating a rear splitter. The cardboard paper template shown in the photo is not complete, but shows what I'm going for.





    Another reason I took off the bumper was to add new and bigger exhaust tips which I had for a few months, but had decided not to put on last time I had the bumper off the car. To do this, I have to cut off the OEM tips. It's much easier to do both jobs with the bumper off the car. I'm hoping to have these projects completed by Friday. I also hope that I will have the new hood by then and I can fit it on, add the GT500 hood pins and send it out to paint by the end of the weekend.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  19. #333
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    I received the replacement hood, and this one is thankfully not warped. It'll be going to the paint shop tomorrow. For the last week, I've been working on it, including performing custom work. The GT500 hood comes with a functional louver-style scoop which acts as a heat extractor. It also comes with a tray which attaches at the bottom of the louver which renders the heat extraction function useless. The only purpose the tray serves is to keep water out of the engine compartment... somewhat. The tray is easy to put on and take off, so I plan to use it only if I'm storing the car or leaving it outside for an extended amount of time.


    These are the vents in the center of the hood. I took the OEM hood's insulation and cut it so it fits around these vents (no photos yet).


    This is the tray which comes with the hood. Good (somewhat) for keeping water out, awful to help remove heat.


    I custom-made these vents out of perforated sheet metal to help keep bugs, leaves, and other debris out of the engine compartment. They will be removable. All that's left is to powder-coat them.

    I already received the racing stripes. This will be the final project on the car.

    One final note: I decided against replacing the exhaust tips... at least for now. I did some research and found other customers whom had a few different issues with these tips. So, until the manufacturer can work the bugs out, or I can find a better way to install them, I'll just keep the OEM tips instead. A shame really since I've already done a custom powder-coating job on them.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

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  21. #334
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    I've completed rear diffuser 2.0, and although I don't have a photo yet, it has already been powder-coated and installed on the bumper. Hopefully tomorrow, I will be installing the rear bumper on the car.


    This is the diffuser's core. I measured three times and bent once to the shape of the rear bumper. Thankfully, I got it right the first time...


    Here it is completed, right before I powder-coated all the pieces.

    I should receive the hood back from the painter by the end of the week. I should also get my new gauge pack by Friday.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  22. #335
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    Carlos, How does the Coupe drive with the 3.27 rear end? I am beginning my plan and want to go that way as well. Thanks. Steve

  23. #336
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FracAG1980 View Post
    Carlos, How does the Coupe drive with the 3.27 rear end? I am beginning my plan and want to go that way as well. Thanks. Steve
    Sorry, Steve. I wish I could answer your question, but my Coupe has not hit the road yet. For what it's worth, I've built many cars throughout the years and I did the calculations with the vehicle's proposed curb weight, transmission final gear ratio, engine's estimated hp/torque numbers, and main use of the car (street), to end up with these gears. If you're looking for more speed and don't mind sacrificing gas mileage, you could go with 3.55 or 3.73, as I originally intended when I planned to use a six-speed transmission. Once I get the car going - hopefully soon - I'll have a full report. Good luck.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  24. #337
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Not much to report lately, unfortunately. The hood is still at the paint shop. I received a message over a week and a half ago that it was ready for pick-up, but I noticed that it was not up to my standards as it had spots which were not covered and one spot with over-spray. It just so happened that the painter quit the same day I went to pick it up. Apparently, the dealer has not been able to assign anyone to my hood since then to correct the mistakes. So, that's what I'm dealing with now. Otherwise, all I have left is to lay down the stripes and take care of a couple of paint chips.


    The second version of the diffuser is powder-coated and installed. I must admit that I like this version much better.


    Received and installed the new gauge pack which belongs to the '18 - '20 EcoBoost Mustang. I took the car for a test drive and the gauges work great. I'm glad I purchased this set and not the one advertised by other companies whom state that the gauge pack is the same all the way back from 2015. This is not true as I found out from Ford and Ford Performance. The internal electronics are different and the '15 - '17 gauge packs are not compatible with the newer cars; therefore, the older EcoBoost gauge packs will not read boost on the newer cars.

    Hope to get my hood back soon, so I can get my car on the road soon.
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

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  26. #338
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    I received the hood last week, after having some choice words with the dealer. The second painter did not complete the job as promised (left one item undone), so I took care of it myself. The hood is installed and hopefully those issues are now behind me. I still have to deal with some dings on the trunk. Once that's taken care of, I'll lay down the stripes and the car will be done.


    Once the mistakes were corrected, I installed the hood and added the screens I previously fabricated and powder-coated.


    Here's the completed underside of the hood.


    I spent a lot of time modifying the radiator core support and radiator hold-down brackets, in order to install the hood pins at the correct angles so they would work with the hood. I even had to fabricate custom angled bushings to make this work. This was not fun at all, but at least it's now functional. These hoods are known for slightly lifting at high speeds, so having pins is a good option.


    With the stock radiator cover on, the hood pins almost look like they came with the car.


    Here's the completed hood with the functional button-type hood pins installed - just like the GT500.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  27. #339
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    The Mustang has been completed for about two weeks, but I forgot to post the photos. You may notice that there are no racing stripes on it and that would be because the kit I purchase was supposed to be Anthracite metallic grey, which would match my wheel. Instead, what I received was some kind of medium grey. Unfortunately, I did not realize this until I had laid them down on the hood and peeled the top protective layer off. I was very unhappy with the color, so I ended up peeling off the stripes. I may end up going with matte black stripes later. I've seen them on another black Mustang and they look good.




    You'll notice how much lower the car is now compared to how it was before.





    I happened to take the car for a dyno run today. I'm glad to report that my car made as much power as the actual GT500. The shop owner actually has one and he admitted as much. I also did the calculation and it pans out. The engine kept making horsepower all the way to the redline. The pull was made on 5th gear.


    Besides maybe later on adding the racing stripes, the only thing I plan to do is replacing the "5.0" and "GT" emblems for the one I used on the front grill. For now though, I have some after-market parts to put on my truck, but most importantly, I need to get back to work on the Coupe.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  28. #340
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quietly working, despite hard luck

    Hey everyone,

    Well, it's been over 2 years since my last post. I know, I know, I keep disappearing. Besides all the tribulations I had gone through up until my last post, my luck got worse. I started getting really sick with multiple symptoms and conditions which could not be explained. Found out last year that I was exposed to mold in my own home for 2 years, thanks to an A/C tech who created a leak in my upstairs unit. It took that long to notice real damage, but by then it was almost too late for me. I ended up suffering from many medical issues which kept me from being able to do much. I ended up quitting my job earlier last year because of the illnesses, and experienced two near-death situations due to the conditions, which had not been identified then.

    Fortunately, I've been under the care of multiple doctors and I feel somewhat better and out of the woods, but still a long way to go before I am healthy. I keep fighting while working in the garage a few hours on the days I feel well enough.

    I haven't posted anything, even though there has been progress, because I feel tired of disappointing everyone on this forum whom have been following this build. For that, I'd like to apologize. This car should have been completed a long time ago (as Henry keeps reminding me - thanks for keeping me on my toes), but I have other goals I need to accomplish, so I'm still focus on finishing this project first. The thought of giving up and selling this car, or having others finish it for me, has not entered my mind, and will not happen unless I become too sick to continue on a long-term or permanent basis.

    Please be patient with me, as I presently have to take care of my health first and I'm not able to work full time in the garage. I'll be posting from time to time, especially during key parts of the build, or when I conduct custom work, but I won't be posting every little step of the process as I used to do.

    Self-pity party over; now for the good stuff, read below.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  29. #341
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    For the last 9 months or so, I've been back in the garage. All the electrical, including custom circuits are completed. I'm about to test all circuits shortly, but have some loose ends to take care of first. The custom center console is also done. I cut the dash in half, as there was too much tension and warpage at the bend due to the angle it sits on the frame. The separation eliminated this issue. The vertical portion of the dash has received quite a few custom modifications and is now completed. All switches have been labeled by laser-etching custom powder-coated panels. The steering hub has been altered in order to use a quick-release with the Russ Thompson turn signal stalk (instructions to follow for those interested in this modification and are not aware of how to perform it). Some of the FFR-supplied carpet has been slightly modified and permanently installed (although it doesn't show on any of the photos posted here).

    Some of the other modifications are: Switched out the engine's upper intake manifold, for the one that was originally on my 358. It turned out that the one I installed on the 347 is larger and taller, with a 90 mm opening, while the one that was on the 358 is only 75 mm. Not only does it make sense in swapping them out, but it eliminated the clearance issues with the body and hood. There will be a little more custom work in the trunk before I lay down the carpet. I also need to build an air filter box once the body is on the chassis. I had realized that with the seat bolted down and steering wheel on, I needed to be a contortionist in order to get in and out of the car. I ended up modifying the seat tracks, the floor, the seat, and the seat brackets. That gained me a couple of inches of height and length; but it wasn't enough. That's when I started researching for a quick-release I could modify to use with the FFR hub and steering shaft, and the RT turn signal stalk. Once I found one (on this forum, mind you), I did the work and it turned out great. Not only does it give me much more room for ingress and egress, but that's another security measure against car theft.

    My next two big ticket items are to complete testing all the electrical circuits and first start. Hopefully, I'll accomplish these very soon.

    Here are some of the custom panels made for the switches, plus a vanity decal for the dash. I fabricated and powder-coated them, and had the trophy/plaque shop at the Air Force base close to me laser etch them, after I provided digital drawings of all the symbols.


    Installed a door popper system with the actuators attached to the door frames via custom-fabricated brackets.


    Vertical portion of the dash and center console completed (with yet unaltered steering hub).




    These are older photos which don't show all the progress made so far. More to come...

    EDIT:

    There are other modifications and custom work which have been performed:

    Installed a line lock system, a shift light, a brake bias valve, fuel pressure gauge, air/fuel ratio gauge, vacuum/pressure gauge, reverse camera with reverse lights, a switched front bumper camera, forward and aft-facing security camera system, and a rear view mirror with integrated screen for the front bumper and reverse cameras.

    Carlos
    Last edited by Carlos C; 08-16-2023 at 04:17 PM.
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  30. #342
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quick-disconnect steering hub with Russ Thompson's self-cancelling turn signal stalk

    The following are the instructions to convert your FFR-supplied steering hub with the RT modification for his turn signal stalk.

    Parts and tools needed:

    1. SRT-400 or equivalent quick-disconnect hub from NRG (easy to find in Amazon).
    2. 4.2mm drill bit
    3. Drill
    4. 5.5mm or 3/16" drill bit
    5. M5 x 0.8 tap
    6. M5 x 0.8 - 10 (or M5 x 0.8 - 12) stainless steel flathead bolts (x6) [fairly easy to find at Ace Hardware]. Note: The longer bolts are easier to find, but you may have to cut them down so they'll sit flush to the FFR steering hub.
    7. Countersink (1/2" is good, 3/4" is better)
    8. Drill center hole punch
    9. Black marker (Sharpie with fine and ultra fine points is best)
    10. Dremel tool with cutting wheel or equivalent
    11. Belt sander with 80 grit or grinding wheel

    Parts and tools not required but recommended:

    1. Drill press (to make sure the new holes on the FFR hub are drilled straight)
    2. Plastic jigs created by members on this forum to keep parts concentric while marking the holes to be drilled. If unable to get these from the forum and not having a 3D printer, I've included instructions here on how to get it done right the first time without the jigs. The jig set has two separate parts which are completely different. One is for the steering wheel to NRG front half of the hub, and the other is for the FFR hub and back half of the NRG hub.
    3. 1 1/2" hole saw (if you don't have the jigs)
    4. Any cylindrical item with a 52mm outside diameter (if you don't have the jigs). I happened to have a big socket with this measurement, but ended up using the jigs instead.

    Instructions:

    This NRG quick-disconnect uses all metric hardware, which is why you're required to get metric bolts, drill bits and tap. The next couple of photos show top and bottom of this hub as it comes out of the box.

    Bottom view


    Top view


    1. Remove the two electrical connectors from both halves of the hub and discard. These are for a horn, which the FFR steering wheel does not have a provision for. Remove the front half of the NRG hub from its collar by unlocking and turning the collar. Remove the two screws holding the back half of the hub to the collar and carefully remove it while using a small flathead screwdriver or equivalent to keep the locking spring and pin from flying out.


    2. Place both halves of the FFR/RT hub together and hold in place with two bolts. Using the marker, mark the top of this hub. The RT half of this hub has a "T" punched for top. If you're not using the jigs, mark this part of the hub at the rear, as you'll be marking and drilling from the back. If you have the jigs, skip this step, as you'll be able to use the "T" as reference when marking and drilling from the front. Do the same for both halves of the NRG hub, although the top of each half is already marked with round indentations.

    3a. If you have the plastic jigs: The back half of the NRG hub's rear lip (where one of the electrical connector was) needs to be cut out completely and then ground down until you get a smooth surface. I used a Dremel with cutting wheel and a belt sander to achieve this as per the photo below. This needs to be done in order for the NRG hub to sit flush with the FFR steering hub.


    3b. If you don't have the plastic jigs: the smaller section of the FFR hub is 1.5" in diameter. Using a 1 1/2" hole saw mark the circle at the center of the rear half of the NRG hub. Place the hub on the drill press and cut the hole. Fit the modified back half of the NRG hub at the rear of the FFR hub without the Russ Thompson section of the hub, line up the top of each hub together mark/punch the top hole on the FFR hub.


    4. Drill with the 4.2mm bit and thread with the M5 x .8 tap. The drilling portion of this step is better done with a drill press. Install one of the NRG supplied allen head M5 x .8 bolts. This will keep the two parts from rotating. Then mark/punch the remaining 5 bolt holes and repeat the process of drilling and tapping. Make sure that the new bolt holes are centered between the original holes. If you did not use the jigs, and once you've made sure that all the bolts line up with both hubs, you can now follow step "3a" above for the procedure to cut and grind down the lip of the NRG's back half of the hub. The photo below shows this step being performed with the jig installed. The result will be the same, but without the jig, it takes a couple of extra steps.


    5. Once you've installed all the bolts to make sure you have a complete alignment, separate these two parts. You will need the rear half of the NRG hub for the next step. The photo below shows the final result of the previous step.


    Continued on the next post.

    Carlos
    Last edited by Carlos C; 08-16-2023 at 07:24 PM.
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  31. #343
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quick-disconnect steering hub modification - Part 2

    6. Mate the two halves of the NRG hub together and turn them upside-down. You'll notice that the rear portion of the front half protrudes past the back half of the hub where you cut out the rear lip. You need to get these parts flush with each other. You have two options here; you can either cut off a few millimeters off it, or use a belt sander to grind down the protruding part of the hub. Once again, this needs to be performed in order for the NRG hub to sit flush with the FFR hub. The photo below shows that I used the belt sander and the result where both parts are flush.


    7. Countersink the original FFR hub bolt holes. This is necessary to have the NRG hub sit flush to it.


    8a. If you have the jigs: Place the jig with the 52mm diameter into the front half of the NRG hub. Mark the top of the steering wheel carefully, insert the steering wheel into the same jig and onto the NRG front hub. Align the "top" marks together. Mark/punch for the new holes in the steering wheel through the NRG hub and to the back of the steering wheel. If done correctly, the spacing between the hub new holes to be drilled and the steering wheel original holes will be almost centered with no chance of overlapping holes. In order to make sure that all the new holes on the steering wheel and the NRG hub will align, follow the aforementioned procedure to drill the first hole and install a bolt through both, the steering wheel and NRG front hub. This way, the two items will not rotate on you as you're attempting to mark and punch for the rest of the holes.

    Steering wheel and front NRG hub centered using the jig.


    8b. If you don't have the jigs: Place a 52"mm cylindrical item over the NRG front hub half and then place the steering wheel over it as well. Depending on the NRG unit you purchased, the bottom lip inside the NRG hub may not be quite 52mm in diameter, necessitating for a quick run with a wheel grinder on a Dremel tool, in order to make it fit properly. You can now follow the procedure on step "8a" above.

    9. Drill the new steering wheel holes with a 5.5mm or 3/16" bit.

    10. Once you're finished with the previous step, separate the hub from the steering wheel. Use the countersink at the front of the steering wheel where the new holes were drilled. Just like with the original holes, the new bolts need to be flush on the steering wheel for the FFR steering wheel cap to sit flush. Re-installed the bolts to the steering wheel / NRG front hub combo using blue Loctite.

    Modified steering wheel


    The photos below show the NRG front half attached to the steering wheel using the hardware store-procured M5 x .8 flathead bolts. I needed to cut down these bolts by a couple of millimeters, in order for them not to protrude and create contact with the back half of the hub, which won't allow the two NRG hub sections to mate.




    11. You may now bolt down the two halves of the FFR/RT steering hub together using either, the FFR or RT-supplied hub bolts. If using the RT bolts, you will need to mark them once installed, remove them, and cut them down so they will sit flush to the hub.


    12. Re-install the back half of the NRG hub to the FFR hub for the final time using the NRG-supplied allen head bolts with blue Loctite.

    13. Attach the back half of the NRG hub to the NRG collar using the original hardware. Be careful placing the spring and locking pin back into place. These pieces are very small and can go flying while attempting to attach the hub to the collar. This also goes while separating these two parts. The manufacturer explicitly states on their instructions that they are not responsible for lost parts, in the event that the customer decides to take the unit apart, and they will not sell these parts separately.

    Continued on next post.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  32. #344
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quick-disconnect steering hub modification - Part 3

    14. You may run into an issue, as I did, depending on the NRG model you purchased. You may have noticed that there is an aluminum tension ring inside the front half of the NRG hub. This is to keep a horn button in place. Unfortunately, mine did not have a total of 52mm diameter at that spot. This means that the FFR steering wheel cap will not stay on. You'll have a few options here, including replacing the cap's o-ring with a thicker one, replacing the tension ring for a thicker one (purchased or fabricated), among others. Since I already had 0.20 aluminum sheet laying around, I decided to add to the installed ring. This worked perfectly for me. The way I did this was to cut a 3/8" x 5 1/2" piece and use my roller to make a perfect circle. I arrived at the 5.5 inches of circumference by using the following formula: (diameter x pi) - .5 inches. The 1/2" is to allow a gap for the ring to compress while inserting it into the lip, on top of the original ring. If you plan to replace the original ring, you'll need to measure the diameter of that lip without the ring in place, as your sheet aluminum length will be larger than if you're adding to the original ring (hope I didn't confuse anyone). Remember to account for a gap on the ring. Also, make sure that when you roll the aluminum, it is not the same diameter as the lip. You need to keep tension on the new ring so it'll expand onto the lip and stays in place. If you decide to use a larger o-ring instead, you may run into a problem with the new o-ring not sitting properly into the cap's machined depression, and may come out of it and roll while inserting the cap, giving you a poor fit.

    15. Once the ring is in place, and depending on what method you used, you may not need to have an o-ring on the cap any longer. In my situation, it was a very snug fit without the o-ring. The only way the cap will come out is by pushing it from the backside of the steering wheel through the NRG front hub.

    The photos below show the process I used to install the cap.






    This is the final product!






    I'd like to thank the amazingly smart people on this forum for coming up with this solution and keeping me from reinventing the wheel, and especially my friend for letting me borrow the jigs.

    Final Notes:

    1. This procedure is only for the use on FFR Coupe / Roadster steering wheels with the Russ Thompson turn signal stalk modification already completed.
    2. As stated above, be careful removing and reinstalling the NRG hubs locking pin and spring. If lost, you may have to purchase a new complete unit.
    3. Measure twice... no, three times and drill once. You'll only get one chance to get this modification done correctly. If you mess up, you'll need to purchase new parts.
    4. This is a fairly simple modification, but very tedious. It's not as complicated as I may have made it seem on these posts. Either way, it works perfectly and is one of my favorite mods I've done on this car so far.
    5. There are other models NRG makes which are similar in looks and function. I found out that there's another I personally put my hands on (can't recall the model number) which looks the same as mine (SRT-400), but at least one lip diameter was slightly different. Also, it seems that other members of this forum have used a couple of different models. Therefore, although these instructions may work with other models, I can only guarantee that my instructions will work with the SRT-400.

    Please feel free contacting me with any questions or suggestions regarding these instructions.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

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  34. #345

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    I could only skim through the photos but the craftsmanship and attention to details look second to none. Hang in there; if it were easy everyone would do it.

  35. #346
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob McCrea View Post
    I could only skim through the photos but the craftsmanship and attention to details look second to none. Hang in there; if it were easy everyone would do it.
    Thanks for the kind words, Jacob. I'm hanging the best I can...

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  36. #347
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Completed the driver side footbox after testing all the circuits, carpeted both footboxes, installed the amp's controller on the center console and tested the sound system. It's really loud, even without the 6 x 9's which will be mounted behind the seats. I have all the equipment for that, but haven't mounted them yet. Other odds and ends have been completed. Pics to follow at a later time.

    Filled the vehicle with fluids - except the refrigerant - and it's ready for the first start, but ran into an issue: the headers don't fit. You see, I had ordered this kit when I planned to use a 351. When I abruptly decided to use a 302-based engine instead, I never ordered the pipes, foolishly thinking that the Gen2 and its pipes would be around for a long time. Then the Gen3 came out with a completely different exhaust. So now I have a dilemma. According to FFR, they don't have Gen 2 302 headers laying around. It looks like, unless I can find someone in this forum who has a set of these headers, I'll have to butcher mine to make them fit.

    So please, if you have a set of Gen 2 Coupe headers for a 302, and willing to part ways with them, let me know. I'm willing to pay or do an even trade for my brand-new set of Gen 2 Coupe 351 headers. They don't have to be new, so long they are in good condition. I also posted this on the classifieds.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  37. Likes Gbeck liked this post
  38. #348
    Senior Member Gbeck's Avatar
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    A set of early roadster pipes for a 302 was posted on Factory Five Builder. Maybe some of it will work for you.
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/ffrb...ibextid=W9rl1R
    Gen 2 Type 65 Coupe. Gen 2 Coyote. T-bird IRS. 3.55 Torsen diff.
    Find me at "Team Limer" on Facebook
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  39. #349
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    I don't use Facebook anymore, so I'm not able to see the post. Regardless, Roadster and Gen 2 Coupe exhaust systems are not interchangeable. I would have to purchase the headers and side exhaust for a Roadster, without knowing if they'd fit on the Coupe without chassis interference, and definitely would have to modify the body. It'd be easier and cheaper to modify the headers I already have, which is now plan b, if no one has has a set for sale. Thanks for chiming in, though.

    Cheers,

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

  40. #350
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    Good to see you back at it. hang in there.
    16+ FFR kits and counting!

  41. #351
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    Carlos,

    Really impressed with your inexhaustible supply of git-r-done! No matter which way the circumstances push you, you keep at it. Hope to see the coupe at Cars and Coffee in Dolphin mall next year! A little sad it won’t have that massive race motor in it, but it’ll still kick ***! Think I’ll adopt a bunch of your mods when I finally get down to it.

    Chris in Miami

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    PS: have you heard of Jet-Hot header coatings? Something I want to use, but would still add those heat baffles you invented.

  43. #353
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    Chris:

    Thank you for the compliment. I'm not known to be a quitter, and not planning to start now. I wouldn't mind driving down to Miami with the car at all, as that's my second home, but haven't been there in a few years. I just hope the car is done by then. As far as my mods go, you and anyone else is more than welcome to use my ideas. After all, I've taken quite a few from this forum as well. If you have any questions regarding my mods, feel free to ask me.

    Yes, I've used Jet-Hot Coatings on my motorcycle exhaust and a previously owned Mustang. It does help somewhat with the heat, but not enough. That's why I created the shields. The coating's best attribute is that it keeps your steel pipes from rusting and keeps them looking good. I also plan to wrap the headers with the DEI wrapping product. It's much better at suppressing heat than ceramic coating..

    Good luck with your build.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Ford 347ci, Tremec TKO500, 8.8 rear end w/ 3.27:1 gears, Cobra/SVO brakes

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