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Thread: Jaime's Western New York Build

  1. #161
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    Here's a close up of the bypass...

    I replace the brake master cylinder nipple on the manifold with a much smaller nipple and used that for my bypass vacuum source.

    Here's a close up of the 3 to 2.5 inch hump connect I used the connect to the throttle body...

  2. #162
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    The mount is a simple bent piece of steel going to the piece on the transmission that holds the clutch return spring...


    Here's a side view to show how far the whole thing sticks up. I have about 1/2 inch between the top of the intercooler and the hatch.

  3. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Good info. At 2lbs per quart, the water only adds 12lbs. So between that and all the other added parts like plumbing and exchanger, Wayne's estimate of 30lbs or so seems spot on. Well worth it if it does the job.
    Yup. The intercooler itself is surprisingly heavy, almost 20 pounds. Regardless of the weight, I wouldn't build an 818 without an AWIC. Good thing I saved a ton of weight in wiring, it should pretty much offset this.

  4. #164
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    Got my first drive in this past weekend...


  5. #165
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    Here's the tubes on the side...


    And where they go up...
    I deff would not mount the awic lines right on the coolant lines.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  6. #166
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    I think I'm going to wrap them in pipe insulation. At least they're on the cold side.

  7. #167
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    Started fitting the body. This is not going to be fun.


  8. #168
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Got any issues during your 1st drive?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  9. #169
    Senior Member D Clary's Avatar
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    818 cooling 002.JPG I bought aluminum tubing from McMaster carr. welded a bead around the end to hold the hose on the tube

  10. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Got any issues during your 1st drive?
    Amazingly, the engine started the first time I turned the key and the first drive was uneventful. My alignment isn't good yet, but that's minor.

    I did have to replace both axle seals after putting the engine in twice. I would recommend either putting the engine in with the hubs mostly unbolted and axles out of the way, then carefully slide the axles straight in. If you don't do that, make sure you have someone helping you who's only job is to guide the axle ends into the transmission.

  11. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Clary View Post
    I bought aluminum tubing from McMaster carr. welded a bead around the end to hold the hose on the tube
    That looks great. I have heat and an AWIC, so I have two extra lines on each side. There's a ton of room on the outboard side, but the tight space is the top and bottom at the front. I might bolt some upside down L brackets to the frame and hang the lines off that.

  12. #172
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    I'm a little late to the party. Your AWIC setup looks good. Same parts I'm using (core and HE). I like your fill port placement, simple and effective (I haven't gotten that far, but have the parts sitting around). One thing I'm going to do is tap the upper corner of the AWIC core with a fitting and route that to a third port on the fill that way it's self bleeding.

    The body slowed me down quite a bit (not as much as a baby though, ha!). Read other's threads and see what they have done. One nice thing about getting slowed down is others passed me and I didn't have to figure everything out for myself. I'm using 10-32 rivnuts and bolts to hold most body parts on instead of riveting so it can be easily removed.
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  13. #173
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I use 10--24 rivnuts... Jaime, I think that I outlined a good simple process to mount the body and Wayne has published some great tips... I'm about to do mine again... I'm sure it will be faster than the original
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  14. #174
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    I think I'm going to wrap them in pipe insulation. At least they're on the cold side.
    I am using intercooler wrap but I would separate them because between the coolant line and the hot side of the awic lines will also help heat soak. I will have my cart back together soon to display what I am doing.

    It all looks nice and is coming together nicely
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  15. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I like your fill port placement, simple and effective (I haven't gotten that far, but have the parts sitting around). One thing I'm going to do is tap the upper corner of the AWIC core with a fitting and route that to a third port on the fill that way it's self bleeding.
    Surprisingly, I didn't really need the fill port after the initial fill. Even though the radiator is under the AWIC, it doesn't spill out if I open the cap. Most of my bleeding was done by running it for a few seconds and topping off the radiator. After the second time around, the fill port stayed full but the radiator took quite a bit of coolant.

    My core filled up pretty easily. I just dismounted it and sat it on top of the transmission with the water outlet port on top and ran the pump. I don't think I'm going to put a bleed valve on it.

  16. #176
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    I love coming to this build. Very detail oriented and everything looks to be done with high quality. Congrats on go karting.

  17. #177
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    10-24 rivnuts and 10-32 rivnuts. Those are smaller than the 1/4-20 provided by FFR?
    Last edited by Frank818; 10-25-2014 at 03:48 PM.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  18. #178
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    This is the wrap I am using on awic linesimage.jpgimage.jpg
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  19. #179
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    Frank, yes they're smaller. About 2 bolt sizes down, though you almost never see size 12 bolts. American bolts go typically by sizes from 2,4,6,8,10 then go by fractions starting at 1/4. Went size ten to keep size and weight down. Plus there will be several in a row to bear a load vs just one or two 1/4 20s.
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  20. #180
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    Temporary Body Alignment Tool©®TM


  21. #181
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    Here's my main problem so far:



    I kind of expected this, since this panel wore through the protective duct tape and the powder coat on the ride home right at this spot.

  22. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    I use 10--24 rivnuts... Jaime, I think that I outlined a good simple process to mount the body and Wayne has published some great tips... I'm about to do mine again... I'm sure it will be faster than the original
    Been reading those thread for a while now. You guy certainly saved me from learning a lot of things the hard way.

    I have a bunch of 10-32 rivnuts and button head screws. I'm also hoping I can make these work:

    A lot of the bodywork on my Hayabusa was held on with these and I had that up to 190mph with no problems.

  23. #183
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    This is the wrap I am using on awic linesimage.jpgimage.jpg
    Nice stuff!! What is it called? Emotion Heat Insulator?
    I like the fact it has small width.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    A lot of the bodywork on my Hayabusa was held on with these and I had that up to 190mph with no problems.
    And do you think they would support heavier panels? Or simply add more, maybe.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  24. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    And do you think they would support heavier panels?
    Yes. If done right, those things will hold on until they break.

  25. #185
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    When do you plan on testing these? Might actually be a viable option for me too. But I won't touch that until a few months.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  26. #186
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    Trying to get the body lined up now. I have 25 of them here, so pretty soon.

  27. #187
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Nice stuff!! What is it called? Emotion Heat Insulator?
    I like the fact it has small width.



    And do you think they would support heavier panels? Or simply add more, maybe.
    Here's the stuff, on ebay or siteimage.jpg
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  28. #188
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    I'm going a different direction on body mounting. I put all the pieces on, but none are fastened to the frame yet. I did put the bolts and rivnuts between the fenders and sides. The most important thing to me is how the pieces line up relative to each other. They'll get fastened to the car wherever they need to be to get the seams right.

    Here's how they lay...




  29. #189
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  30. #190
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Wow, your body fits perfectly! How many hours you put on trimming, cutting and etc.?

    Oh wait, I retract my statement, the headlights are not fitted yet, might change a lot of things, as they say. lolll
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  31. #191
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    That's where my strategy will pay off (I hope). Everything is where it should be right now. My headlights fit as badly as everyone else's. Next, I'm going to assemble the front end off the car and flip it over. Then, I'll trim the fender lips so the tops of the headlights match up nice and set the buckets wherever the bottoms of the headlights land.

  32. #192
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    Interesting approach. Body fitting seems to be like a rubiks cube..... Looking forward to seeing if your method makes it easier.

  33. #193
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Jamie
    I'm going to follow your method on the body. Keep us informed. I plan on starting on the body in about 2 weeks.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  34. #194
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    It seems to be working well so far. Here's the outside corner of one of the headlights...



    That's never going to fit in the bucket properly. After trimming:


  35. #195
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    First headlight is done:



    Like everyone else, I had to trim a ton off of the bottom of the fender lip.

  36. #196
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Interesting approach. Body fitting seems to be like a rubiks cube.....
    Except that rubik cubes can be completed within 6-7sec...
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  37. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Except that rubik cubes can be completed within 6-7sec...
    But only after years of practice and thousands of completions. Seems like a pretty apt comparison.

  38. #198
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Boog, you're right. Then just imagine Jaime after years of practice and thousands of body panel completions.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  39. #199
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    First side bolted into place.



    I had to trim a ton of material off the bottom of the fender and drop the bucket about 3/8".

  40. #200
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    You might be one the first, but certainly the first "I" have seen, bolting this up for final placement so quickly.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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