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Thread: Jaime's Western New York Build

  1. #1
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    Jaime's Western New York Build

    I'm about six weeks out from delivery and up until now, I haven't done anything that isn't already documented here. I'm starting this thread because I'm getting a Quiafe LSD on Monday and there's not a whole lot of info floating around on how to install it. I could use a hundred smart people looking over my shoulder and helping me when I screw up.

    I finished taking my donor apart in February, and have been busy getting my parts in shape to install. Here's what I started with:



    2005 WRX Sedan with 126000 miles and hit in the left front. The car drove when it was delivered to me, so the damage isn't too bad.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 08:55 PM.

  2. #2
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    I've got a handful of upgrades planned, most of which I have already purchased.

    Tires and wheels: Axis Sport Xfactor wheel with Bridgestone Potenza S-04 tires. 18x9.5 wheel with 255/35R18 in the back and 17x8 with 215/45R17 in the front.





    They were discontinued for 2014, so I got the whole set for a tad over $1000.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 08:57 PM.

  3. #3
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    Wilwood brakes - 12 inch front and rear.



    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 08:59 PM.

  4. #4
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    SPT Aluminum Control Arms:



    Real trailing links:



    I've mocked them up and they will either slightly rub or have a tiny amount of clearance, so I'm going to offset the rear mounting brackets like Wayne does on his arms.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 09:05 PM.

  5. #5
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    Rear lateral links. All four are adjustable.



    eBay 2 row aluminum radiator.



    Didn't have a whole lot of choice on this one. The donor's radiator was toast.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 09:07 PM.

  6. #6
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    My donor had the high-back seats like the STI's do, so I figured I would keep them. However, I found a great deal on a leather upholstery kit...



    I also replaced the seat cushions because the bolsters were shot.


    The dealership told me these were the last two in the country.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 09:08 PM.

  7. #7
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    My donor came with an Automatic Transmission, so I picked up a JDM 5 speed.

    20140328_210158.jpg

    It has 4.444 final drive, so I picked up a set of 3.9 gears just in case.



    I'm still not sure if I'll use them, but I need to decide by next week because they have to go in with the Quiafe.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 09:09 PM.

  8. #8
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    A have a VF30 turbo the I got from a NASIOC member.

    20140306_180523.jpg

    It seems to be in really good shape. I don't know yet how I'm going to approach engine modifications. Here are the two directions I'm thinking:

    1. Put it together totally stock, get it registered and on the road, then dig into the engine. This has a lot of appeal, but I'll be putting in an engine with 90,000 miles (not the original engine in the donor). If I take it apart to assess its condition, I might as well build it.

    2. Do the engine during the build. I have a 2.5L short block on the way along with partial heads (some valve damage). I can always set it aside until later, but it's just so tempting. On the other hand, there will be a lot more things to go wrong and I won't be able to start it until I get at least a safe map in it. A 2.5L bottom end with 2.0L heads (or B25 heads minus AVCS) with a VF30 turbo isn't exactly a popular combination, so it might be hard to find a ready-to-go conservative map to get it up and running. That means I'll have to trailer it to the tuner before I play around with it.

  9. #9
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    I've been busy in the past few weeks. My steering rack got the full "Rasmus Treatment".

    20140328_212531.jpg

    Fluid ports on the body welded...
    20140328_212615.jpg

    Fluid ports around the pinion welded and smoothed...
    20140328_212556.jpg

    I also welded the valve assembly to remove the play associated with a de-powered rack.

    New inner and out tie rods, since the ten year old ones were nasty and really resisted being taken apart. I had to resort to cutting one of the outers during disassembly.

  10. #10
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    Here's my front hubs ready to be installed...

    20140328_213849_FO.jpg

    Back side...

    20140328_213849_FI.jpg

    Hubs cleaned (all manual, no bucket-of-doom), painted, bearings and seals replaced, new outer CV. I bought a set of outer CVs because they came with axle nuts, grease, and boots. Plus, I don't have to pick which set of axles to take apart. I have a set of axles with female inners and a set of axles with male inners and I'm not sure which I'll use until I take a look at the LSD next week.

  11. #11
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    Rears...

    20140328_213849_RO.jpg

    20140328_213849_RI.jpg

    Cleaned, painted, new bearings and seals, new bolts, new parking brake shoes.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Hey same brakes as I do.

    That might be a long shot from now, but once you get the car rolling, let us know how the front tires seem to work. Comfort, steering, handling... I have 215/40 but wanted 215/45. I stayed with 40s cuz I have 4 of them on another car that I'll use and I was afraid the 45s would be too tall to prevent full lock (or less) rubbing.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
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    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    It's so beautiful!

  14. #14
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Great start! Where in WNY? I'm originally from Buffalo.
    FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
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    All toys still in the Scuderia!


    Every Saint has a past..................every sinner a future

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    Born in Niagara Falls, currently live in Lockport. I work out by the Buffalo airport.

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    Here's one of the seats as removed from the donor:

    20140131_232145.jpg

    Current picture:

    20140328_231723.jpg

    I've still got some wrinkles to smooth out, but they'll soon look right in a new car.

  17. #17
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    I grew up in Rochester.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  18. #18
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    Here's how close I came to major engine damage:



    That's the inside of the timing cover. The radiator overflow was pressing up against it hard enough for the gear to cut through the cover.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 09:12 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I grew up in Rochester.
    Cool, I've been drunk in Henrietta more than a few times. My cousin went to RIT. Most of the Buffalo Subaru community seems to be in the Rochester area judging by activity at buffaloscooby.com

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    I grew up in Rochester.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    Cool, I've been drunk in Henrietta more than a few times. My cousin went to RIT. Most of the Buffalo Subaru community seems to be in the Rochester area judging by activity at buffaloscooby.com
    I did my undergrad at U of R... massive big ice storm my senior year was probably a factor in my decision to move to CA for grad school!

  21. #21
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    I don't think I've ever been drunk in or with Henrietta, but, it sounds like a good place to be. Pretty sure I've been through Lockport a few times.
    Good luck with the build. If they had the 818 available earlier and I wasn't hung up on this 33 project I think it would an be interesting project.

  22. #22
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Where did you buy your leather seat covers? I've had good results using leatherseats.com
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  23. #23
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    I got them on eBay from a seller named autoleatherkits, they had a "last one" special for a RoadWire 2005 STI kit for $399 shipped. My WRX shares front seats with the 2005 STI, but has different back seats. I still have the back seat upholstery and a bunch of pieces that were supposed to be used for the center console and armrests.

    There's a good chance when I look back on this build that reupholstering the seats will have been the hardest part.

  24. #24
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    Got the transmission apart today.





    It looks really good inside. I started cleaning - in the picture the left side is partially cleaned up and the right isn't. The gears look brand new - even reverse. The whole "JDM parts are better" rule seems to have some merit because this is a 1999 transmission and it has what looks like the 2003+ thicker gears. I make that assumption by comparing second gear with the pictures here.

    I swapped in the 3.9 pinion, it was a lot easier than I expected. The thick pressed on washer between the pinion roller bearing and the thrust washer came off with a few minutes of tapping with a plastic hammer. I got it on the new pinion shaft by putting the shaft in the freezer for an hour and it dropped right on.

    I have a full set of pinion shims, some gaskets, a 3.9 speedo gear, and new oil seals on order. Hopefully the LSD comes Monday and I can figure out if I need any other parts.
    Last edited by Jaime; 04-27-2014 at 09:11 PM.

  25. #25
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    LSD came today. I'm one of the people with an older style transmision, but trying the cheaper Quife differential (QDH3Y). It looks like it shouldn't be a problem installing it. I can go one of two ways to get it installed:

    1. Get stub axles from an older style automatic transmission or an early STI 6 speed. I can't use the stubs from my current differential because they are designed to be c-clipped in and the Quife doesn't have access to the place where the clip goes and doesn't have a spider gear to clip to if it did. They're 50 bucks a piece at the dealership or nearly free at a junkyard if you pull them yourself. With these, I can use the inner female CVs from pre 2003.
    2. Replace the 30mm oil seals with 35mm oil seals. They're six bucks a piece and allow the use of male inner CVs.

    I have both types of CVs, so I'm going with option 2, but I'm sure option 1 will be right for someone.

    I destroyed one of the bearings removing it from the old differential, so I'm waiting for the replacement to come to really dig into the install, but I got the other bearing on. The differential comes with spacers that are supposed to be used if installed in a six speed. The spacers make perfect tools to help press the bearings on.

    Last edited by Jaime; 04-01-2014 at 03:54 PM.

  26. #26
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    Got my replacement bearing and made some progress on the LSD install.

    First, had to get ready. Here is the tube of stuff I'm using to check how well the pinion meshes with the ring:



    Removed the clip from one of the ineer CVs so I can use it as a wrench to turn the differential. Useful for checking backlash.



    I also removed the oil seals and the o-rings from the adjusters so I could feel what they were doing a lot better.

  27. #27
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    Instead of buying the $250 pinion depth tool, I'm going to do the old "guess and measure" technique. It will probably take a lot longer, but the results should be the same. To start, I left in the shims that were there when I took it apart. It had a medium and a thin one that totalled about 0.012".

    This is something I've never done before, so I'm posting it here for for the benefit of others and so that if I screw something up, I hope someone will correct me.

    I started by installing the differential and the driven shaft and painting a few ring teeth with blue stuff.



    I then aligned the bearing holder at the tail end of the driven shaft and snugged the bottom two bolts to position the bearing and compress the shims. Dropped on the left case half, snugged the top two bearing holder bolts, bolted the case halves together, and torqued the bearing holder bolts.




  28. #28
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    I then set the pinion to ring backlash and bearing preload according to the factory service manual - bottom adjuster tightened until there is drag, then backed out 1 1/2 teeth; top adjuster tightened until it contacts the bearing, plus one tooth. I was surprised how quickly the top one got hard to turn, one tooth was probably pretty close to 10 ft-lbs of torque. I used this tool for both these adjusters and the aluminum plug on top of the steering rack. It opens up far enough to engage teeth on opposite sides of the adjuster and can put quite a lot of torque on it.

    Next, I turned the driven shaft by hand to make an impression in the blue stuff. Here's what I got on the first attempt:



    To my amateur eyes, that looks like too much backlash - the mark is too close to the tip of the gear teeth.

  29. #29
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    I turned in the bottom adjuster one tooth and turned the top one out a tooth. After brushing the blue stuff arouns to hide the existing imression and re-assembling, I got this:



    Better, I now have a dark line above the main impression, so I'm moving in the right direction.

  30. #30
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    So, another half tooth less backlash and repeat the whole process again. The third time I get this:



    I'm pretty happy with it, but it seemed too easy. I never changed a shim and was very close on backlash when I first put it together. To me, it looks like the shims are correct and maybe it needs another half turn less backlash. I'm getting a proper dial indicator tomorrow or Monday, So I'll let this rest until I can double-check the backlash that way. I also have a new speedo gear on order, so I can't button it up yet anyways.

    I'm hoping one of you can give me a little reassurance or some pointers.

  31. #31
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    There is someone who makes an acrylic version of the backlash tool. Might be subarugears.com. its something like $20 instead of $250.
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  32. #32
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    Tha want $75 and I have to wait for it to be shipped from Australia. From what I read in the manual, the mesh pattern is used to fine-tune the shim and backlash, so I think I should be good as long as I get a good pattern.

  33. #33
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    I ended up checking the pinion depth by comparing it to the depth of the old pinion. I clamped a bar across the front of the pinion and used a feeler to measure where the old one ended:



    Then I swapped in the new pinion and shimmed it to the same clearance. It was almost the same, but I'm glad I checked.

  34. #34
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    I switched to yellow marking compound because the blue was hard to see.



    Here's my final gear engagement pattern:

    Drive side:



    Coast side:


  35. #35
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    My delivery is in three weeks, so I took advantage of the good weather today to start a chassis dolly:



    I got four 600 pound casters from Amazon for ten bucks each. I like these ones because the wheel locks also prevent swiveling. I still have to build the pads up to final height.

  36. #36
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    Nice! Good luck with build.

  37. #37
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    BTW, the transmission is now completely together and I can verify that the QDH3Y fits and all you have to do is install later model seals and use male axles.

  38. #38
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    I picked these up a few months ago since I didn't like what the stamped trailing arms would look like on my 818:



    When test fitting them, I found two surprising things. First, I didn't think there would be enough clearance for the tires I'm going to run (265 rears). Second, these arms actually have less clearance than the stock ones. Wayne's arms look like a modified version of these arms - although I bought mine long before I knew Wayne's existed. So, I figured I would make the clearance I needed. Here's the final result:



    I have no intention of running ABS, so the tabs are gone too.

  39. #39
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Wayne's trailing arms don't clear 265s?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  40. #40
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    Wayne's do. The Godspeed arms I got off eBay don't, so I had to modify them. If I had known about Wayne's arms months ago, I would have bought them instead of the ones I did. If I had to guess, I'd say all of the aftermarket trailing arms are from the same manufacturer.

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