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Thread: removing donor rear outer CV joint

  1. #1
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    removing donor rear outer CV joint

    I am in the process of completing my axle setup. I am using new components (see "Christmas comes twice a year" thread in General sub forum), and am attempting to remove the new-donor rear outer CV joint. The manual says to lock the axle in a vise and hit the inner race of the joint with a hammer. The picture shows the outer race being hit with a hammer. Mine won't budge hitting the inner race with a small ball peen hammer, using a hard brass drift. Am reluctant to hit the outer race too hard. The picture also shows a honker of a hammer being used. Am afraid this much impact will cause damage either to the inner race or to the outer one and/or the bearings (which would bear the load of moving the inner race off the shaft if the outer race is hilt) What worked for you guys?

    Thanks,

    Bill

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Mounted axle in vice,
    I used a 12" long 2x2 wood deck railing spindle.
    End was tapered so all force went to inner race.
    Hit it 50 to 75% with 2 lb sledge hammer.
    Nice to have an extra person ready to catch it when it comes off.
    Did 8 of them with no ploblem.
    Bob

    Edit: About 6-10 wacks
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 04-15-2014 at 01:02 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, Bob; I can fashion a similar setup; will give it a try.

    Bill

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    Senior Member Goldwing's Avatar
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    If you look ahead to reassembly, you'll see the cv ends are just held in place with a spring clip. The hammer blow just has to pop it out if the groove. I used a mallet which could only reach the outer race. The first was tougher, because I didn't understand where to direct the blows. You want them in line with the axle. Once I realized that, the rest popped much more easily. Good luck!
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
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    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    yeah... the instructions are deceptively simple (just 'tap it off' LOL). Like Bob described, use a sledge with something to direct the force to the the inner race, a couple good hits in the right spot will pop the clip off.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wleehendrick View Post
    yeah... the instructions are deceptively simple (just 'tap it off' LOL). Like Bob described, use a sledge with something to direct the force to the the inner race, a couple good hits in the right spot will pop the clip off.
    Actually the clip doesn't come off. It compresses in the groove and comes through the inner race. It will still be on the shaft after the outer cv joint comes off.
    Bob

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    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Thats what I meant... pop thr joint off by forcing the clip in the groove. I wish the instructions were a little more detailed, I went to youtube to find the trick.

  8. #8
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Perfect timing for this thread. I'll be working on mine tomorrow.

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    Just did mine last night. I tried to start with something least likely to cause damage. Ended up going through this progression: plastic hammer, rubber mallet, hammer and wood block, hand sledge with aluminum block. I really had to hit the aluminum block hard to get it to come off.

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    Made a wooden drift out of oak and approached the situation per Bob's post above. Worked great.

    Reassembly (of the FFR axle with circular clip snapped back into the retaining groove in the splined area of the axle) back into the outer rear CV to complete the assembly can be a problem. The retaining clip can act as a snap-ring, blocking the axle from reentering the CV if one doesn't chuck the CV in a vise and offer up the axle into it, compressing the retaining ring with a pair of needle-nose pliers as you go. Hitting the other end of the axle with a dead-blow will finish the job.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Waters View Post
    Made a wooden drift out of oak and approached the situation per Bob's post above. Worked great.

    Reassembly (of the FFR axle with circular clip snapped back into the retaining groove in the splined area of the axle) back into the outer rear CV to complete the assembly can be a problem. The retaining clip can act as a snap-ring, blocking the axle from reentering the CV if one doesn't chuck the CV in a vise and offer up the axle into it, compressing the retaining ring with a pair of needle-nose pliers as you go. Hitting the other end of the axle with a dead-blow will finish the job.
    Use a hose clamp like a ring compressor on a piston.
    I read that on one of the tip pages.
    Bob

    Edit: Here is a link to Wayne's tip.
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post111287
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 04-16-2014 at 10:36 AM.

  12. #12
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    Wayne Presley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Use a hose clamp like a ring compressor on a piston.
    I read that on one of the tip pages.
    Bob
    That was my tip, works great.
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
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  13. #13
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Just tried to take apart some (Brand new) Chinese made replacement axle assemblies. After lots of beating, and then a cut-off wheel, we found that there is an additional internal clip. This additional clip is installed in a way that will NEVER let the CV come loose from the axle. Don't waste your time trying to work with these.

  14. #14
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    I used a hardened pin from a shop press. a few light taps and it was loose.

    I mushed a wood handle trying to get it. The metal pin did no damage.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

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