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AZPete, Thanks! I'll have a look at Ace here and see if I can find the same plug
Clark's Ace in Ellicott City on 40 has been my goto place for that kind of stuff. They seem to be a bit better than the one in Burtonsville.Originally Posted by Westview
Larry
I was able to press the race out of one bearing housing:
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However, the second one broke my 2X4:
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Not exactly the best material for the job, but I don't have a piece of steel that will fit under the housing. I tried a couple of other ways but couldn't hold the housing straight. This second race is clearly harder to press out than the first one. I have a 12 ton press and I'm not sure its up to the task. Before I give up my press, I want to see if I can locate some scrap steel to hold the housing level.
If that's the Harbor Freight 12-ton press, then it will do it. I did six of them with mine. I recommend the $30 Harbor Freight bearing press set. When you press a new bearing back in you're going to appreciate it.
Didn't the press come with arbor plates? If not, 3/4 by 2 hot roll steel is like ten bucks a foot from onlinemetals.com.
^^ Agreed. That bearing press set is perfect for these subaru bearings. You'll also need a metal sleeve to press on the new bearing onto the wheel hub. I couldn't find anything at local hardware stores and didn't want to buy a $60 bearing sleeve kit so I found a sleeve from McMaster (pn: 6391K439 only $5.07) that is about the right OD, ID and length. Just used it last night to press on the new front bearings - I was amazed at how little grease comes on them out of the box. Highly recommend buying a jar or synthetic bearing grease.
It is a harbor freight press. I have two plates that came with it, but they are square with various shaped cut outs on the edges. They simply don't fit under the housing and allow it to lay flat. Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.
Last edited by Westview; 07-27-2014 at 04:47 PM.
Thanks for the tips, I'll check them all out. Just got my new bearings today. Looks like there's a plastic ring holding the bearing halves together:
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I have some old synthetic grease, but I think to be safe I'll get some new stuff to pack them
I used some 3/4 x 3 aluminum rectangle I had laying around. It was narrow enough to hold the bearing housing without interfering with the rest of the thing. That's why I recommended 3/4 x 2 steel. It will be plenty strong and stay out of the way. Also, steel is cheap.
I ran across this site one day and decided to swap out my HF cast arbor plates. Could have been a scare tactic to drum up business but with a 20 ton press it didn't seem worth the risk.
http://www.swagoffroad.com/Arbor-Press-Plates_p_7.html
I don't recall if I went with the ones listed on the site.
Yeah..I'm very cautious when I use the press. If what I'm doing is a little sketchy, I have a ladder next to my press and I climb up above the press to protect myself.
I was able to press the second race out of the housing today. It was pretty sketchy so I was above the press when the wedge I was using popped out. Yes it missed me.
Last edited by Westview; 07-26-2014 at 09:26 AM.
Worked on cleaning up and painting my front hubs/housings. I'm using Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, so I just wire brush the loose stuff off and don't worry about getting it perfectly free of rust. Before wire brushing on the left, after on the right:
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I really like the final finish for these kind of parts:
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Jaime, I took your advice and got the HF press set. Worked like a charm pressing the race in.
STiWRD, Haven't figured out how I'm going to press the bearings on yet, may take your suggestion.
I used that sleeve last week, worked like a charm. I did the front and rear bearings with it. When doing the rear bearings, remember to bolt on the e-brake plates before pressing the hubs into the spindles - I almost forgot to do this (cuz I took mine apart to clean and paint) but remembered at the last second.
Worked on taking my rear bearing/hubs apart. I was really stumped on how to press the hubs out without damaging the backing plate. Then I found a link where a guy just clamped the housing in a vice and beat the hub out with a socket and a hammer. That worked for me:
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When I grabbed the second one to start working on it I noticed it was damaged. Not sure how I didn't see this damage before, but I need a new housing this one is toast:
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Finally got to bolt on the front suspension pieces and the steering rack:
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Still need to install the sway bar. The brackets appear to need to be flattened to be installed. It's not clear that they'll fit once flattened. I'd like to confirm that I'm doing the right thing before I start bending them.
Many of us just bought generic bushings, 17MM for the sedan bar. My originals didn't line up even when you flatten them, details in my thread
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Thanks Dan,
After doing some measurements it was quite clear that the donor brackets would not easily work. So I order some bushing with brackets as suggested.
Doesn't count as you did not get enough overspray on the driveway, you need to do it againDid a little painting today.
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
Wayne came through and replaced my damaged rear bearing housing. Damaged one on the left, replacement on the right:
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I started cleaning the housings up last weekend. They seemed much worse than the front bearing housings. I wired brushed them and that didn't seem to be getting anywhere. I decided to try Evaporust. That didn't cut it. So today I decided to try the "De-rusting bucket". Being ADD I read the first half of the instructions and immediately started trying to figure out how I would build my bucket. I don't have a welder so welding some re-bar together wasn't a quick option. Then I remembered I have a bunch of tomato cages. They have rings that are just the right diameter for the bucket. So I went to work:
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Then I decided to see what kind of solution I needed. That's when I finally read the very last instruction. No galvanized steel. Of course my entire set up is galvanized steel... so back to the drawing board.
Last edited by Westview; 08-29-2014 at 08:03 PM.
I am officially a big believer in the "De-Rusting Bucket". I bought a 10ft long, 1/2 inch section of re-bar and cut it into three equal length pieces. Bent them into a U shape with one leg longer than the other. Inserted them in the plastic bucket and wired the long ends together to complete the circuit. This allowed me to avoid welding:
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Unfortunately I don't have a 2amp charger. I have a 6amp charger that will put out 12v or 6v. It was drawing way too much power at 12v so I dropped it down to 6v. That dropped the draw down to between 4 and 5 amps. So I was probably boiling way harder than needed, but it still worked.
Here's my bearing housing after de-rusting:
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That looks pretty good to me! But here's what really made me a believer, a backing plate before and after de-rusting:
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The de-rusting process bubbled the paint up everywhere there was rust. There's no way I would have found all that rust without this process. I'm very grateful to Rasmus for documenting this process and the others that contributed. THANKS!!!
On a sad note. My Harbor Freight vice was not up to the task of bending 1/2 inch re-bar:
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I read some posts where people broke the plastic ribbing in the filter sock on the fuel pump while inserting it into the tank. So I was nervous about installing it. But I was able to get it in without breaking:
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It was too long:
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So I had to pull it back out, trim the hose and weave it back into the hole:
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There was no way the stock sway bar mounts would work without serious modification so I decided to purchase some after market mounts:
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The sway bar is very close to the springs:
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So I decided to install a collar to keep it from moving:
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Your filter sock on the fuel pump looks huge. What brand is that? Ours fit through without any difficulty.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
On the gas tank socks. The one on the left is out of my 06 NA impreza donor. The one on the right is out of my 04 FXT donor. The FXT turbo sock looks the same as Westview's.
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Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 12-20-2014 at 12:52 AM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
It's supposed to be off a 2006 WRX Wagon.
My 05 WRX one was huge and difficult to fit as well. And I think everyone has had to pull it out to recut the tube to get it at the right length!
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
hm, I wonder what ours is then. It came off an 02 WRX with an upgraded pump (255lph), but the fuel filter sock was pretty small, closer to the NA that Bob pictured. We do have an external fuel filter in our engine compartment though, so I wonder if that is the difference. We had no issues fitting it though the hole, and no cutting of any tubes.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
Entering the realm of pure speculation...at some point Subaru decided to eliminate the external fuel filter. The original filter sock on the fuel pump provided sufficient filtering to keep the pump from clogging up and the external filter did the rest of the work. Eliminating the external filter meant the filter sock now had to do all of the work. So they had to make it a finer filter. To maintain the rate of flow through the finer filter sock they had to increase it's size. Except for the fact that they eliminated the external fuel filter, the rest is, as I said, pure speculation on my part.
The 06na pump has a small sock , filter and requlator in the tank. Damper in the engine bay. No return line from the engine.
The 04 FXT has a large sock and damper in the tank. It also had a canister filter and return damper in the engine bay. The regulator is on the engine.
The white plastic piece is the "jet pump" used for sucking gas from the other side (drive shaft hump) of the tank.
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Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 12-20-2014 at 12:12 PM.
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
The 05 had a filter in line with the pump after the sock. I added the external 02 type filter in my 818. The original, in line, in tank filter could not be used/inserted inline.
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Seems like there's quite a variety. Here's what mine looked like straight from Wayne...no in-line filter:
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It occurred to me that maybe Wayne simply didn't include the in-line filter since it can't be used?
Last edited by Westview; 12-20-2014 at 03:07 PM.
Good idea. What did you use for a collar on the sway bar?
McMastercarr.com 17MM split collar, you need two to stop movement
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
I did get them from McMaster-Carr as Dan said, but I ended up getting the 5/8" size. I forget why I did that...maybe they didn't have the aluminum in the metric size. They are a little smaller than needed, but they work. Here the line item from my order:
6436K136 Two-Piece Clamp-on Shaft Collar, for 5/8" Diameter, Aluminum
My wife and kids chipped in to get me Wayne's K-Tuned Shifter for Christmas and my wife embroidered an 818 silhouette on a sweat shirt for me:
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Thinking about adding Factory Five Racing under the silhouette:
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Nice.
Wonderful wife!
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Nice.Thanks guys. I want to point out that the embroidery was done by machine. Many hours of work on the design, but now that it's done it's easy to replicate. If there's any interest, I may be able to get her to apply for vendor status
Yes please
ditto!
Finally got around to installing my rear suspension. Had a some trouble coming up with a way to get all the bolts in. Ended up using my bearing puller to push the arm into place:
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