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Thread: Watch ADD guy build car

  1. #1
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Watch ADD guy build car

    I'm a little late starting a build thread, but procrastination is an integral part of my personality.

    My donor is a 2006 WRX Wagon, which I purchased from Wayne at Very Cool Parts. Here are some pictures picking it up down in Alabama:
    DSC_0038.JPGDSC_0040.JPG

    Getting it out of the bed of my truck once I got home:
    DSC_0043.JPGDSC_0057.JPGDSC_0069.JPG


    Picked my kit up a few weeks ago:
    DSC_0149.JPGDSC_0155.JPG

    I have a lot of back ordered parts. I missing the entire Box 6 which is the bulk of the aluminum. No gas tank, no headlights, missing exhaust hardware and more. I don't think any of that will be a problem for quite awhile.

    I spent this past weekend tearing my steering rack apart to "de-power" it. I post some picture of that soon.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Westview; 04-16-2014 at 05:01 PM.

  2. #2
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Good to see you're getting started. Dave and I are just a few miles away if you need help with anything.

    Since we are several months ahead of you, hopefully we'll solve all the problems before you get to them!

    Larry

  3. #3
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    You could always ask for a credit for the headlights and go aftermarket. I have the factory ones lying around too but think it would cost as much to ship them as you could buy them on ebay with free shipping.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
    www.zerodecibelmotorsports.com
    www.facebook.com/zero.decibel.motorsports

  4. #4
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Welcome and congrats.... Nothing wrong with procrastination!!!
    FFR Daytona Type 65 Coupe
    67 427 Cobra
    57' Belair
    72 Pinto Wagon ,306" 1/4 miler
    34 5 window coupe Ford
    2003 Mustang GT
    99' ZX9
    85 Goldwing

    All toys still in the Scuderia!


    Every Saint has a past..................every sinner a future

    Don't take yourself so seriously........no one else does.

    You never see a motorcycle parked outside a Psychiatrists office.

  5. #5
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Congrats and looking forward to following along.

  6. #6
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Hey man, I'm also about an hour away and pretty much at the same stage as you. I too was working on the steering rack this past weekend. Great so see we have a few builders in the DC area!

  7. #7
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    Since we are several months ahead of you, hopefully we'll solve all the problems before you get to them!
    I certainly hope so...I don't want to have to solve all these problems!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    You could always ask for a credit for the headlights and go aftermarket. I have the factory ones lying around too but think it would cost as much to ship them as you could buy them on ebay with free shipping.
    Given my penchant for procrastination, they'll probably be here before I make up my mind which way I want to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by riptide motorsport View Post
    Welcome and congrats.... Nothing wrong with procrastination!!!
    Thanks! I appreciate the moral support. I'm just a little concerned that procrastination isn't the best personality trait for building a car.

    Quote Originally Posted by svanlare View Post
    Congrats and looking forward to following along.
    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Hey man, I'm also about an hour away and pretty much at the same stage as you. I too was working on the steering rack this past weekend. Great so see we have a few builders in the DC area!
    Maybe we'll get to meet up at some point. Wait til you see the high tech tool I made to get my steering rack apart. I may be banned from the forum after they see that.

  8. #8
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Well don't leave us hanging. Post your high tech home made tool!

    <---Also local to you.

  9. #9
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    De-powering my steering rack

    Bolted my steering rack to a 2x4 in order to hold it down while I worked on it:
    DSC_0188.JPG

    First significant problem was the requirement to remove the 'plug' which holds the valve assembly in:
    DSC_0193.JPGDSC_0194.JPG

    My high tech solution to this special tool requirement involves a 2x4 and four 20d nails.

    First made a pattern to get the spacing down:
    DSC_0198.JPG

    Drilled a 3/4 inch hole in the 2x4 to fit over the shaft:
    DSC_0195.JPG

    Measured, cut and ground down the nails to fit the holes in the 'plug':
    DSC_0196.JPGDSC_0199.JPG

    Installed the nails into the 2x4:
    DSC_0203.JPG

    Placed my newly constructed, high precision tool on the 'plug' and tapped it with a hammer to remove the 'plug':
    DSC_0208.JPGDSC_0200.JPG

  10. #10
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    De-powering my steering rack (continued)

    Now I have the 'plug' out, just pull the pinion & valve assembly out by hand:
    DSC_0201.JPGDSC_0202.JPG

    Once the valve assembly was out I removed the 'Holder' and pressed the shaft out of the housing:
    DSC_0204.JPGDSC_0205.JPG

    Once the shaft was out, I used an angle grinder to cut the seal, and then a chisel to break it and remove it:
    DSC_0206.JPGDSC_0207.JPG

    That's as far as I got with the steering rack. Next I'm going to weld the valve assembly & pinion to fuse them together and remove the slop in the steering.
    Last edited by Westview; 04-16-2014 at 07:03 PM.

  11. #11
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Your high-tech tool looks good to me. Be sure to sign up as a vendor before you start selling it!
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  12. #12
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Your high-tech tool looks good to me. Be sure to sign up as a vendor before you start selling it!
    I hadn't thought of that...with material costs of about 25 cents I should be able to make nice profit!

  13. #13
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Cleaning Steering Rack Housing

    Spent some quality time with a wire bush and my steering rack housing.

    Before:
    DSC_0210.JPG
    After:
    DSC_0211.JPG

    Now I'm down to tooth picks trying to get the remaining crevices cleaned out. An interesting internal conflict is brewing. My OCD will have me cleaning this thing for days. On the other hand my patients are wearing thin and of course my ADD wants to go work on something else for awhile.

  14. #14
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    looking good... I made my spanner out of scrap aluminum and a couple roll pins from ACE. I like that you invested 1/2 as much as I did!

    None of use has much patience...

    Nice tractor!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  15. #15
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    looking good... I made my spanner out of scrap aluminum and a couple roll pins from ACE. I like that you invested 1/2 as much as I did!

    None of use has much patience...

    Nice tractor Wayne!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  16. #16
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Spent some more quality time with a wire brush today. Cleaned up the tube nuts from the steering rack. I'm going to have the holes welded shut to seal up the rack.

    Before:
    DSC_0212.JPGDSC_0213.JPGDSC_0215.JPGDSC_0216.JPG

    After:
    DSC_0219.JPG

  17. #17
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Did a little painting today.

    After doing some research I decided to use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and Extreme Chassis Black to paint some of the parts on my build. I've laid down plenty of latex in my life, but have no experience with this sort of paint. My plan was to use a foam brush to paint my parts. That was a mistake. I was not prepared for how fast this paint dries. Brushing is not really an option. I could not lay it down smoothly even though its fairly thin. I had never used a spray gun before. My only spray experience involved aerosol cans. But I happened to buy a very cheap spray gun awhile back but never used it. So I decide it was time to try it out. It worked great and I looking forward to using it to finish things up. Here's a picture of my drying rack, which consists of to horses, two 2x4 and some closet hangers, its a little low to the ground but got the job done:

    DSC_0224.JPG

  18. #18
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    De-Powering the steering rack

    Finished up the steering rack. I had the pinion gear welded to eliminate any movement. I copied the approach Rasmus took, welding through the holes in the valve:

    DSC_0230.JPG

    One word of warning if you take this approach, make sure you clean up the weld splatter. I missed some, put my rack back together and it made about half a rotation before it hard stopped. Had to take it all back apart and discovered weld splatter sticking out had caught on one of the power steering fluid orifices inside the housing.

    Here it is all back together:
    DSC_0232.JPG

  19. #19
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Axle/CV Joints

    Pulled apart my donor axles/CV joint today. This is what I started with:
    DSC_0259.JPG

    Don't have a vise, so I clamped the Axle between two 2X4s to hold it while I tapped the CV housing off with a hammer:
    DSC_0260.JPGDSC_0261.JPG

    It's a messy job:
    DSC_0267.JPGDSC_0268.JPG

    Here's everything apart:
    DSC_0274.JPG

    Here's a the inside of the front inner CV joint housing. There doesn't seem to be any scratches, but I was surprised by how they look. They look like they are burned:
    DSC_0272.JPG

    Still have some work to do taking apart the rear outer CV joint and clean it up. Then it will be time to put the CV joints on the Factory Five supplied axles.

  20. #20
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Installed my first aluminum panels on the front firewall:
    DSC_0276.JPGDSC_0277.JPGDSC_0278.JPGDSC_0279.JPG

  21. #21
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Front Firewall

    Finally finished the front firewall:

    DSC_0337.JPG

    I have a few holes to fill in. Some made by Factory Five for shipping purpose and a couple of mistakes I made:
    DSC_0333.JPGDSC_0334.JPGDSC_0335.JPG

  22. #22
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Looks great, feels good to check off as if feels like something real is done.

  23. #23
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Looks good. The only error I notice is calling extra holes mistakes whereas they are actually "weight saving voids". I've added some WSVs to my build also.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  24. #24
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    Looks good. The only error I notice is calling extra holes mistakes whereas they are actually "weight saving voids". I've added some WSVs to my build also.
    I using that. It's not a mistake; it's a WSV.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasmus View Post
    I using that. It's not a mistake; it's a WSV.
    my Motto: If you can't fix it, feature it.
    Bob

  26. #26
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZPete View Post
    "weight saving voids"
    LOL, now that's funny!

  27. #27
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Front Lower Control Arm Ball Joints

    I didn't like the looks of my ball joints so I got new ones
    DSC_0341.JPG

    The first one I removed simply fell out and came apart when I removed the nut
    DSC_0343.JPG

    The second one came out of the control arm easily, but the cone would not come off the ball joint spindle. I cut away the rubber and was able to get a puller on it and pull it off:
    DSC_0345.JPGDSC_0346.JPG

    Here's the new one next to an old one:
    DSC_0344.JPG

  28. #28
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Fuel Tank Finally Arrived

    My fuel tank finally arrived today:
    DSC_0360.JPG

  29. #29
    Senior Member gwarden's Avatar
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    You get my vote for best use of 2x4s in a build
    Looking good

  30. #30
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwarden View Post
    You get my vote for best use of 2x4s in a build
    Looking good
    Thanks!! It's such an honor to be nominated for Best in 2X4

  31. #31
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Front Lower Control Arm

    Installed the front lower control arms today. I had to drill a hole in the driver's side firewall to get the control arm to fit. Found a button plug at Ace Hardware to plug the hole from the inside. The plug just barely fits over the end of the bolt that is sticking through the firewall:

    DSC_0361.JPGDSC_0362.JPGDSC_0363.JPGDSC_0364.JPGDSC_0365.JPG

  32. #32
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Yup, I did the same. If the hole is big enough for your 19mm socket you can torque the nut later when you've got wheels and it's at ride height.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  33. #33
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    the "wiggle" on the rear bushing is supposed to be on the bottom...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  34. #34
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    the "wiggle" on the rear bushing is supposed to be on the bottom...
    Wow...Thanks for pointing that out!!! I completely missed it. I turned it around and now the hole I drilled in the firewall is off

  35. #35
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Here's my now miss-aligned firewall hole for the driver side front lower control arm:
    DSC_0408.JPG

    So I drilled 1 inch hole. Had to flip the bearing which moved the bolt off center. I originally figured I needed at least 1 ⅛ inch hole to fit a socket through. So I was always planning to enlarge the hole. Now the center of the bolt is .818 inches from the far edge of the hole I drilled. If I split the required 1 ⅛ inches in half that gives me 9/16ths or 0.5625 inches. If I add the 0.5625 inches to the 0.818 inches that gives me 1.3805 inches. This is approximately 1 ⅜ inches (1.375 inches). To be safe I think I need a 1 ½ inch hole in order to fully encompass the existing hole and leave enough room for a socket. Finding a plug to fit a 1 ½ inch hole is proving to be a bit of a challenge. It seems once you get over an inch the recessed portion of the plugs are reversed. So it would have to be installed from same side of the fire wall as the LCA. Which means I would have squeeze it behind the LCA bolt to install it. So far the best plug I've found is this one:
    2inchFloorPlug.jpg2inchFloorPlugSpecs.jpg
    It's for a 2 inch hole and I would rather not go that large if I can avoid it. It also looks pretty thick, so squeezing it behind the LCA bolt could be challenging.

    While I've been pondering that dilemma, I did press the front hubs out of their housing:
    DSC_0403.JPGDSC_0404.JPGDSC_0405.JPGDSC_0406.JPGDSC_0407.JPG
    Now all I have to do is figure out how to get the bearings off the hub. I may have to let someone else do that for me. I know there's a special tool to do that and I can't think of anyway to do it without the special tool.

  36. #36
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Press out from back side out the front where the snap ring is. It's easy with a press and something that fits on the race. Soak with pbblast, but from the looks of it that should come right out . With the bearing on hub, put in a vise and get long a pry baror slide hammer etc

  37. #37
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    Front Hubs/Bearings

    I tried to pry the bearings off the hub with no luck. So I ended up buying a bearing splitter/puller from Harbor Freight. It just barely fit on the hub, but I got it on and was able to pull the bearings off:
    DSC_0413.JPGDSC_0415.JPGDSC_0417.JPG

    I removed the bearings from the housings and found marks on the bearing surfaces of the housings:
    DSC_0411.JPGDSC_0412.JPGDSC_0414.JPG

    I'm not sure what to do about these marks. I could use some advice on this one. I can't feel the marks when I run my finger over them. I don't want to damage the surface trying to remove the marks, but I'm concerned that not removing them may result in premature bearing failure.

  38. #38
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    You're correct that a 1.5" hole is good for the front lower control arm bolt. Look in Ace Hardware for a 1.5" metal hole plug like this.
    If your local Ace doesn't have these, PM me and I'll get a couple from my Ace and send to you. These can be placed from the other side (the inside of the firewall).
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  39. #39
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    I removed the bearings from the housings and found marks on the bearing surfaces of the housings:
    DSC_0411.JPGDSC_0412.JPGDSC_0414.JPG

    I'm not sure what to do about these marks. I could use some advice on this one. I can't feel the marks when I run my finger over them. I don't want to damage the surface trying to remove the marks, but I'm concerned that not removing them may result in premature bearing failure.[/QUOTE]

    Those marks are on the inner race surface of the bearing, which also has to be pressed out of the hub. The new bearings will come with the two bearings and the race. I'm also in the middle of replacing my bearings - I've got all 4 spindles disassembled and painted and new bearings are in. I just have to pack them with redline synthetic grease and press them back into the spindles. I found a pretty good video on youtube for replacing subaru wheel bearings that helped out a lot.

  40. #40
    Member Westview's Avatar
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    STiWRD, Thanks! You are absolutely correct. I figured it out about an hour before I read your post

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