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Thread: Drilling for rivets

  1. #1
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    Drilling for rivets

    I am finding that drilling the hundreds of 1/8 inch holes in the 818 frame to rivet on the aluminum is a killer. Doing the riveting is super easy compared to pushing a drill. Anyone have a recommendation as to the best (sharpest and most effective) drill bit to use?

  2. #2

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    Buy them by the dozen and keep swapping them out. I used them for about 50-100 holes or until they break. Also buy #30 drills instead. Makes it easier to install the rivets. I sell them on my web site if you cannot find them local.
    Mike
    www.replicaparts.com

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    Thanks Mike. But cobalt or some other type of bit is not better?

  4. #4
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    to let the drill do the cutting. I have been a machinist for many years and the most common mistake when drilling holes is to apply too MUCH pressure. I have been involved in many builds over the years and this is the thing I recommend the most.
    Doug

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    For the 1/8 holes I'm using a dremel tool w/ the 90 deg attachment. This works great for tight places and does a pretty good job of making quick holes. I also put some cutting oil on the tip of the bit before use. Just be careful, I was drilling holes for the trans tunnel last week and the bit caught my glove, which pulled the bit through the glove and through my thumb to the bone. I cut one of the nerves in my thumb, but other then some numbness, all is well. I feel like should just rivet my thumb since I went through the effort to put a hole in it .

  6. #6
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    Buy them by the dozen and keep swapping them out. I used them for about 50-100 holes or until they break. Also buy #30 drills instead. Makes it easier to install the rivets. I sell them on my web site if you cannot find them local.
    Mike
    www.replicaparts.com
    For those looking, more precisely here.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Thanks Mike. But cobalt or some other type of bit is not better?
    For a soft metal like aluminum and even steel square tubing, better bits don't pay off much. Spend your money on bulk packs of cheap bits.

    I got these tiny ones on Amazon:
    61c-GzQUX1L._SL1500_.jpg

    Combined with a short drill...
    71oHVMtpERL._SL1500_.jpg
    ... I should be able to get almost everywhere without a right angle. However, this little sucker gets me just about anywhere and still has plenty of power:
    2727.jpg

  8. #8
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    I've been using Chicago Latrobe short length bits that I bought from Amazon. They come in a package of 12, but I haven't used but a few of each size so far. After each drilling/riveting session I give the used bits a quick run in the Drill Dr. to resharpen them.

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00271IXCC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025QHZOG/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

    There are plenty of other choices, these are just what has worked well for me.

    Larry

  9. #9
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I use the packs of double ended TiN bits from harbor freight. I only used 3-4 to get my build to go kart stage. Lubrication and easy pressure are the key. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...its-66213.html I just bought a multi pack of bits for the 3/16 holes http://www.harborfreight.com/316-in-...ece-61545.html

    I place a small cap on the floor when I'm drilling with 1/4 inch of oil in it. I dip the bit in for every hole, it helps keep the drill cool and makes for nice quick clean drilling!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  10. #10
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    What type of oil exactly is best?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  11. #11
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    I stole a bit from work, still on my first one, lol. Blip the trigger a bit, keeps the bit cooler.
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
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    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

  12. #12
    Senior Member 68GT500MAN's Avatar
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    You can get "cutting oil" from Harbor Freight or almost any store selling cutting tools such as drills and saws.
    Doug

  13. #13
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    But cobalt or some other type of bit is not better?
    Nope. Plain old black oxide #30. If you're breaking them it's because the bit is dull and you are trying to wear a hole through the metal by applying pressure rather than letting the bit cut. I can do a whole roadster build with about 5 bits (if I could keep from misplacing them I could probably cut that down to 2 or 3!).

    Jeff

  14. #14
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    I ordered the pack of #30's from Mike; they work well. I'm almost to go-cart and am only on my 3rd bit (broke one, only tossed one for being dull so far).

  15. #15
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I use whatever oil is handy
    Like I said only 3-4 bits to go kart...
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  16. #16
    Senior Member luvaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    I use the packs of double ended TiN bits from harbor freight. I only used 3-4 to get my build to go kart stage. Lubrication and easy pressure are the key. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...its-66213.html I just bought a multi pack of bits for the 3/16 holes http://www.harborfreight.com/316-in-...ece-61545.html

    I place a small cap on the floor when I'm drilling with 1/4 inch of oil in it. I dip the bit in for every hole, it helps keep the drill cool and makes for nice quick clean drilling!
    X2.

    I got my roadster to go cart stage w/2 of them. I found lubricating w/bees wax worked best.

    HTH,
    Will
    FFR MK III picked up 9/24/05 Roller 9/28/05 First start & go-cart 11/28/05 red w/white stripes, PC Chassis, heat/defrost, FFR 15's, pwr footbox vents, radio delete, dual quad 427W, 4 link w/3.27's, Koni's all around, Gen 1 rag top, snapless tonneau, Herb's door panels, NRC rear discs, Breeze head rest, ********** emblems, Paint by Gino's in Rowley, MA
    2011 ffcars.com calendar Cover Car Yes, that's me in the avatar with Dave Smith in front of my roadster at the '06 FFR Open House!

  17. #17
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    I don't think I used more than 3 or 4 bits. I used regular motor oil as a lubricant (also keeps the bit cool). If the oil starts to smoke - add more and reduce the pressure. You also want to use your drill on a slow speed. Using the drill at high speed and using a lot of pressure will kill your bits and make it all go slower.
    FFR4958. IRS, 408W, Loud and fast!

  18. #18
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    Cool advise. 2-5 bits to go-kart sounds out of this world kind of low

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