David's Mk4 Build Thread

[David]

This will be the thread documenting the build of my newly ordered Mk4 Roadster. It should be FULL of pictures with an extensive build log similar to my GTM Build hear: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86384

We made the decision to sell the Mistress(FFR 1046) which we have owned for 14 years and was built into a purpose built Autocross car. It was the first running/driving FFR in Ca! It went to a new home in Michigan and will be used for the purpose it was built. The Changes to the Mk4 put me over the edge from converting FFR1046 back to road duty so we decided to just starting fresh and let our old girl keep doing what she does best... go fast between the cones.

We are very excited about this build... WOOT!

The details of the car will be:

Complete Kit
IRS
Vintage Guages
Leather Seats
Bumpers and Overiders
427 Windsor
(need to figure out what tranny to run)
FFR 17 inch Halibrand style wheels
Paint by Ken Pike, Street Rod Painter!
Transported by Stewart Transport

I'll get started on the thread once she arrives.. but just had to post...

David

[David]

Here are a couple photos of Dave & Mary's new arrival:

Inventory:

And off with the prom dress:

[David]

Firstly I just wanted to thank all the folks for the nice compliments regarding the “Mistress” and its evolution. As suggested earlier in the post, I thought it appropriate to take a few minutes and create a small tribute to the old car and reminisce about some of her history.

We purchased FFR1046 back in 1996 when Dave and Mark were doing a good part of the Assembly itself and even back then Mark Smith was actually welding some of the parts on the cars.

I had been looking for a Cobra replica for a few years, and ran across the FFR ad in kitcar mag. Once I saw the frame and found out it wasn’t a fiberglass tub bolted to a flat frame, like pretty much all the replicas I had seen… and that it wasn’t a cobra body put on a mustang frame, I was hooked.

This was back in 1996 and Mary and I had been married for a couple years and recently bought our first house. Previous to building the car, I done the normal car guy stuff… suspension upgrades, motor and clutch changes, mini restores etc. Funny thing is, the most powerful car I had to this point was probably 150 hp.

We had to scrape to even afford the $9999 kit. Sold some of the precious few shares of stock and re-financed a car. Probably not the smartest financial decision, but maybe one of the best for us! When we purchased the kit, it was the 2nd car shipped to CA.



We built the car on a shoe string using a donor pallet from Cypress in Oakland. the cutup stock mustang gauges and the provided FFR bezels. (Im sure very few on this board even remember that’s the way you did gauges that long ago)

One thing I wasn’t willing to compromise on was deep dish wheels out back, so I set about having a rear end narrowed. This was the first FFR with deep dish wheels.

We had the kit and donor pallet delivered to a friend’s shop in Half Moon Bay and friends Steve, Steve, Kat and wife Mary spent a weekend and got the car to a rolling chassis with Motor and Trans installed!

[David]

Back then the kit used the mustang springs right from the donor!

[David]

Friend Steve doing a bit of wiring!





A few pics near completion



After the switch to 16 inch Compomotive Wheels in search of better tires.

We had the goal to get the car legal driving and registered for road rally at Mary’s work. That was a 3 short months after receiving the kit. We did it minus paint and were crowned the first complete running, driving FFR in California.

[David]

The mods begin.. in search of better brakes but clearance for 15 inch wheels. Fitting Cobra calipers on 11 inch rotors.



Finally painted after 2 years!

Mary and I loved to autocross and do track events, and we started running a few with the car. It was pretty funny.. pretty much everybody would come up and say.. these cars(cobra replicas) don’t do well on the track… for the most part, they were right! We wanted to prove them wrong!

The car went through significant modifications over the next few years. IRS was added, 2nd retrofit after Wayne Presley, same as the swaybars using Speedway parts. I added a backbone to the car before the cobras had them, something that originated in the coupes.

[David]

With the assistance of James Creasy, we used a shareware program called Grape to do FEA analysis on the FFR chassis and test mods to the frame in search of torsional rigidity.

A Vortech Blower was added as well as heads intake etc… to the tune of ~424rwhp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fyu6o...eature=related

After about 4 years we developed the car to be pretty fast and became reasonable drivers as well as winning many Bay Area and Sac cup OSP championships.

I got my first sabbatical at work and took the car to Run and Gun and we earned an overall Top Dog award. I remember getting on that oval for the first time and thinking to myself… why did I drive 2000 miles to do this.. It cold and slick and that’s a solid concrete wall .. Im nuts! A few videos from Run and Gun

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bc3nOyTWB8A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI6lk...eature=related

[David]

Before:


After:






We decided to graduate to slicks and the car didn’t get any faster. That’s when I started to study suspension design and theory with a more intense interest and the SAI mod was born.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qODs_GR3r_0

We started a writing campaign, fought hard and eventually got the FFR Roaster accepted in AP and BP to run in SCCA Solo II National competition like the original Cobras. 2002, Mary and I made the commitment to run at the nationals, while the weather was not nice to us one of the days…

[David]

We both scored podium finishes and were the first and only FFR to trophy at the SCCA Solo II nationals to this day.

I could go on for hours, but it’s really been an amazing journey, and Im pleased to know the Mistress has gone to a new home and she will be used for the purpose it was built… Going fast on the track!

More pics:
http://norcal-cobras.com/FFR1046History/index_3.html

http://norcal-cobras.com/FFR1046History/

Ohhh… and some may be asking, whats this “Mistress” business.. or “Whining Mistress” You can imagine how much time I spent in the garage completing the first car in 3 months…. She became the “other woman” and Mary coined the name . The blower contributed the whining part. There’s lots more ‘history’ as well with the West Coast Spec Series, and the GTM build.. but I digress.

Most importantly, in this whole journey have been the very dear friends we have made over the years. My friendship with Dave Smith, Jim and others at FFR... and the support and trust they have put in me has been remarkable.

As I’ve said many times, the cars are a ticket to a family and club that has no equal. You won’t find finer people than those associated with these cars. Something about a person who has the desire and spirit to build their own car from a pile of parts. Whatever it is, it’s the kind of person I want to be around.

So it begins again....

David

[JGPierce]

Hi Dave,

I've been following the build at the FFCars forum and its a great thread. It's great to see how you're figuring out how to make the Coyote work. Not to confuse matters: will you be updating both forums now?

John

[jabm]

Dave - Glad to see you've already made you way over to this forum with the MK4 build! I've been following it closely as you're providing significant inspiration for my planned Coyote-powered MK4

[David]

Mk4 was delivered on Saturday! Jo and Denis from Stewart were just awesome to deal with. Just really good people... thanks guys for the good service!

Big thanks to Dan Pellow, Tracy Work, Don DePonte, Brad, and Dan for coming over and helping get the kit loaded on and off the trailer and into the shop. Really appreciate the help guys!


Stewart just pulling up...

Tracy was kind enough to loan me his trailer which made it sooo easy to get the kit and boxes up the steep drive. Thanks man...



Don, Dan, and myself heading down to meet the drivers.

[David]

Kit safely in the shop. I really really love the shape of this body!! Those beautiful new hips... IMHO the FFR guys really got it right making the 198 car fit the FFR chassis.



Hard to believe nearly an entire car of parts in these boxes.



Mary showing off her new toy... Ipad.

[David]

New Massive footboxes. A number of the guys commented how big the new footboxes are.



Very large trunk!



Found the first part Im going to make... The kit comes with some very beefy steel trunk hinges. Im going to make some nice light Aluminum ones with machined recesses. Let me know what you think!

We took a complete inventory and very few items where back ordered and I think one bolt package wasnt packed.

After going through the complete kit and seeing all the parts and line items, the quality of the alum and how well everything fits, to be frank, Im blown away. The fact they get this many line items with so few mistakes is really remarkable from such a small company in such a niche market.

They have come such a long way in the 14+ years Ive known this company. I just wish the guys who complain about a bolt that might be a quarter inch short, or shipping mistakes etc wouldnt throw the baby out with the bath water and not sweat the small stuff. FFR works really hard to bring us a quality product and in my opinion does a very very good job considering.

More pics here: http://norcal-cobras.com/Mk4Build1/index.html

David

[David]

Im so stoked I found these pictures!!







Here's all the stooges picture!
http://norcal-cobras.com/stooges/index.html

I'll respond to the other ? soon

David

[David]

Now that my motor decision is finally made, its time to make a post on the planned chassis mods.

Before I get started, I want to make sure you guys know I dont think these chassis mods are needed, even remotely. This is more of an excercise on seeing how stiff I can get the chassis using FEA and seeing if the finished product will have a qualifiable effect on the cars ride and handling. Shoot, our Mk1 was very nice on the road and the new Mk3/4 are a good 2X stiffer than the Mk1. James Creasy is still racing his Mk1 in Solo II and getting close to top time of day overall in a very competive region...

With that said, here's what I have been up to over the last few months in the evenings... First needed to measure and model the stock chassis and created a 3D scetch in SW. Thanks to Dan Pellow for his help doing this. Funny how you 'think' you have all the measurements and you end up running back to the shop 20 times for a new dimesion here and there.

First, here’s a model of the stock FFR frame:


This was measured off a Mk4 frame but a MK2 or 3 would be similar. I measured out the frame and once the model was close, double checked a number of measurements to make sure it was fairly accurate trying to get better than .5 inch for any joint. Should be close enough for what I’m attempting to accomplish. I left out a few tubes/members that I don’t believe will have a bearing on the results.

To give you an idea how many changes I tried, here’s an image of the 3D sketch I created over the last month or so as I’ve been working on it:


This isn’t all the iterations I attempted. I’ve deleted a number of them to keep the sketch from getting too busy.

[David]

Continued..

This is an image of what should be close to the final product:




Changes highlighted

The FEA was run using SW2010 Simulation. Luckily we have a seat at work that I am allowed to use when others aren’t using it. I chose to use 2010 since it now allows for curved/arced weldmentS. While the vast majority of the tubes are straight, there are a couple that are bent.

Restraints: one rear coilover is held in a ‘fixed’ restraint which doesn’t allow movement in the XYZ planes but does allow rotation. The other front and rear coilover mount are only constrained vertically allowing for displacement as the chassis bends.

Load: I applied a 5000lb static load vertically at the opposite front coilover mount.

Results for stock frame:


Front coilover mount displaced a total of 1.15” with a 5000lb load. This in itself is pretty amazing if you think about it! You can put an SUV on one corner of your Mk3/4 and it will only deflect about an inch!!! Thats pretty insane to me... I deleted the tubes to make the frame equal to a Mk1 frame and the deflection is about 2 inchs... so the Mk3/4 frames are 2X the Mk1 frame in torsional stiffness.

Im convinced FFR hasnt made the changes Im proposing, mostly for clearance challences thay may arise from all the different motors and exhaust options available on the car.

Here are the results for modified frame and slightly different rear coilover location. Rear coliover location makes a pretty small change torsionally but the motion ratio change on top of this should be worth the effort:


Front coilover mount displaced a total of .625” with a 5000lb load resulting in just under 2X improvement in torsional stiffness!

Once I get the new 5.0 in house(suspect about a month) I will get the motor in the chassis and start double checking my model with the chassis and motor to make sure everything will clear.

The funny thing about this whole process is the changes almost look obvious to me after they were all done and verified... but it took me a couple months of work and thought and probably over 40 hours of time to arrive at the changes...(it could be Im a bit slow as well) Stuff that you would think would make big changes did nothing, or very little. Just removing one tube may really kill the results. The whole process was very enlightenig to me.

Let me know what you all think!

David

[David]

Coyote Crate Engine is in the house!



How it arrived



Fully wrapped

[David]

continued...





Misc pictures.. From a quick look, the engine came with headers, flywheel, oil filter and filled with oil.



Its missing the rubber pieces that allow the engine cover to snap over the intake, tensioner, and fuel rails. Ive heard there was a recall on these so assume thats why its missing.

More images here: http://norcal-cobras.com/Mk4Build/coyote/index.html

If you have any questions about the motor, or need measurements, let me know.


David

[David]

Motor mounts and headers are on the way and should be here tomorrow. Russ Thompson is coming up this weekend to pick up the shortblock he purchased from me and I think he is going to help me install the Coyote in the chassis so I can start mocking up the chassis mods. If anyone in the area is interested in coming up, let me know.

I put a deposit on a new 2005+ Tremec TR-3650 trans for a great price. This will allow for an OEM quality hydraulic clutch and shifter position is customizable.

I just spoke to these guys: http://coastdriveline.com/Contact.htm They said they can do a new driveshaft for a 2005+ trans to IRS with the slip yoke integrated into the driveshaft and balanced for $325. Ive heard this company is really good so if you are thinking of going with the 05+ trans this is another driveshaft option for you.(cross posted in the Modular forum)

If anyone needs a new driveshaft for an earlier car, I can sell mine. Brand new 31 spline 10.375 driveshaft from FFR. Shoot me a PM if interested.

David

[David]

The engine sitting in place.... It fits surprisingly well, with plenty of clearance from the footbox aluminum.

[David]

Issues we need to work though are an oil pan that sits about 2 inches below the frame rails
and the stock 4.6 motor mounts that are going to need some spacers. The motor mounts are a
bit narrow for the FFR frame so its sits to low and the studs hang in the slots before
touching the pads.

The two ways I see tackling this. One is to design an adapter/saddle over the original motor mounts and raise the motor a full 2 inches. The other is to compromise and raise the motor approx 1 inch with alum shims between the motor mounts and the chassis coupled with a roadrace pan (either the champ, or Canton) that's an inch shallower than the stock pan. Still dont know if the 4.6 pans can be adapted, but I assume a compatible pan will be available in the near future. I think the 2nd option will offer the best compromise.



Mocked up drivers side headers. Appears to be plenty of clearance here. Not sure if I'm going to created an adapter flange or cut the existing flange off and use a new Coyote specific flange only. I wont get to that until the chassis mods are done.


Proud papa

Overall a great day and we met some really neat folks. Thanks all that came up to visit and those who assisted with the engine install. It was a great meeting ASTGlenn and his wife as well after a long time chatting on line.

Special thanks to Dan LePage for taking pics... I was so excited to getting the engine in, I kinda spaced.

David

[David]

Spoke to Bryan at FF5, was told that although they have the Coyote motor there and actually have been selling it to customers, he has not heard of them making any changes to the frame or aluminum panels. I was told to order the 4.6 kit from them and the motor should fit fine. Which is obviously confirmed by David's build...

Only issue apparently are the headers will have to be modified or custom made I guess.

The areas that need to be worked through to put a 5.0 in the FFR Mk4

-Some sort of spacer for the stock 4.6 motor mounts.(this should be pretty easy to do) to raise the motor .5 inch.

-A shallow Sump Oil Pan.(should be at least 1.5 inch shallower) I spoke to Canton and this is in the works with them. (Not sure if Champ pan Richard sells is working on this as well)

-Until FFR makes a compatible header, Modify the stock 4.6 headers. This should be pretty easy to do. Either cutting the flange off and welding on a new 5.0 flange, or making an adapter plate. The spacing and fit of the 4.6 headers seems pretty good, so this isnt a big deal if you have some fab skills or are willing to sub it out. Should be pretty easy and not any where near as complex as makiing new headers.

-Steering shaft may need to be tweaked very slightly. Its pretty close but raising the motor .5 inch might do it. Otherwise adding another joint would do it I think.

-Overall, its a great fit.... as far as I can see at this time, its not very complicated to adapt and it will only get easier as these parts are created for the specifc application.

David

[David]

I thought the new 5.0L, like the 3V motor, was drive-by-wire and had to use it's own special pedal?

Correct. The 5.0 is throttle by wire and comes with a throttle pedal and harness as part of the engine control pack.

David

[David]

Dave,
I might have missed it where you answered this, but what motor did you tell FF5 you were using when you ordered the kit?

In other words, are those the 4.6 specific motor mounts welded onto the frame?

You order a kit for the 4.6. The motor mounts on the frame are the same, but the motor mounts you get for the kit are different. There is also some different aluminum included for the drivers side footbox as Sergio pointed out earlier in the thread.

The headers you would want to get to modify for the 5.0 would be the standard 4.6 Headers. Same spacing but different flange. Still some work but definately doable.

David

[David]

David -

FF claims the MK4 body will require less body work to complete/paint.

Would you agree?

Thanks!

Im not a body man, but I think the body does look much better. I really like the hidden body fasteners, hinges, rounded cockpit etc.

Mostly I love the new shape very much!!

David

[David]

I got the custom engine harness, computer and TBW pedal.

I spent some time playing with the harness after work, laying it out to see possible routing solutions and found if I extend the passenger side cam position sensor wiring and a few others(a total of about 10 wires) I can easily get the computers plug back behind the firewall if I decide to put it there. I may consider putting it back up above the pass footbox as well. I'll know better once I see how the AC and heat fits in under the dash.

Im just glad I wont be forced to hack up the harness to much to get the clean look Im shooting for.

David

[David]

Had a chance to pull the pan and compare it to the 4.6 pan that Chet sent to me(thanks Chet!) and the Coyote Pan.

The 4.6 Pan is definitely not adaptable. They appear to have lengthened the pan at the shallow side. The deep side appears to be the same, or very very close.

Heres some pics:






The oil level sender ports are on opposite sides.


The windage tray and integrated pan gasket.

David

[David]

Will do Joe. My guess is it will be a month or two but will keep you and the rest of folks posted as I learn more.

How do you plan on mating the 5.0L engine management electronics with the rest of the car?

It looks like I'm jumping in the Coyote game as well, but i'm going to build the car first, and wait on a donor motor. Going to try and wait out a junkyard motor.

Depending, you may be well served to purchase the control pack engine intended for the motor for hotrod applications. There may be a whole host of issues to overcome that might save you a ton of time just getting the hotrod harness and ECU/TBW pedal.

Thats what I did and it appears there are just a handful of wires to hook up and splice into the chassis harness.

I'll try to cover that when I get there. Its going to be some time though as I will doing chassis mods first.

David

[David]

Spent a reasonable part of the weekend working on the chassis modifications and took the sawzall to the frame , officially starting the chassis mods I plan.(covered earlier in the thread)

I was able to fit three of the six 1.5 " primary chassis tubes and the fourth will be complete in about 30 minutes and all will be tac welded in place. It takes considerable time to hand fit these tubes as there are compound angles fitting round to flat, and round to round fitting with fish mouths.

Once I get them tacked to the chassis I'll take and post some photos and post them.

This week, I'll check with Canton and see if they received the oil pan I sent them and get an idea what they think the timeline will be.

David

[David]

A quick update with pics to follow late this week.

Over the last couple weekends, I finished fitting the main chassis tubes. Mike Downs, GTM builder came up to corner weight his GTM and check out the build. Once we finished up with his car he helped me hold the new tubes while I tacked them in place. Now that the 4 main perimeter tubes are in place I can fit the tubes that run next to the engine to see how much room I have to play with.

So far the only clearance issues I have are with the steering shaft between the rack and footbox and possibly a diagonal tube. It doesnt appear that I'll have trouble getting a power steering pump to work with AC on the passenger side if I decide to go that route. Should be plenty of clearance! The diagonal I may make removeable to help get the headers in and out without the having the body off

Other than that, I made it over to ASTGlenn's shop to pick up my transmission(it was shipped there). Man what a great shop they have. HUGE waterjet cutter which they have been making great looking 427 Comp dashes with. They have a Fadal Mill and every other tool you can imagine. Glenn and his son are just really cool people. I hung out for a couple hours and am stoked I was able to meet these guys... and they are only 10 minutes from my house! Thanks again Glenn for letting me come visit!

Hoping another good weekend or two and the chassis mods will be done and they on to making the brackets for AC and PS.

David

[David]

Raising the motor was for oil pan clearance only. The shallow pans that are made for the 4.6 and what the new pan the canton should be making for us should be 1.5 shorter than the stock pan.(where the additional .5 inch comes from). Personally Im not interested in dry sump. Dont want to deal with the expense or complexity. I went with a Coyote for OEM reliability and simplicity. A skid would help if the pan hangs a small amount below after the new pan but 1.5" is way to much IMHO .

As far as the chassis goes, from what solidworks FEA is telling me, stiffening the back of the car doesnt net any appreciable gains. The backbone is a pretty big reason for this. The backbone and a few other small additions nearly doubled the chassis stiffness from the MKI way back when.

As I mentioned earlier, I dont see the current FFR frame as having any deficits. This is an exercise for me to see how good I am able to make it using a modern analysis tool(sw cosmos) given the HUGE Coyote motor sitting up front. Based on the latest modifications Ive made and simulations Ive run, the frame should be better than 2X in torsion.

Updates coming tomorrow Hank Ive spend several days in the shop this last week while on vacation.

Happy New Year!

David

[David]

Im nearly done with the chassis mods. I found the tube fitting to be pretty time consuming but a bit fun as well. It took a great deal of time but suspect mostly because I have not done a great much of it and I don’t have some of the custom tools that make the job easier.

For all the round tubes, I used paper templates from this website http://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-...e-Notcher.html I found this to be very useful as I was able to grab the angles from my SW 3D sketch and plug them into the tool. I still had to do some fitting after using the template but it helped a great deal in getting it close. The rough notching was done on my bandsaw and then used a 12 inch disk and/or a flapper wheel on a grinder to close in on it.

Here are a few of my better notches.




Some images of the nearly completed project.

[David]

continued...






The blue tape shows where there will be 4 more tubes. Just not sure if I will need to make them removable or not. I think the two tubes in the front will be OK with putting the motor in, but not 100% sure. I think I will tack them in and try to remove and re-install the motor. I know I can do it with just the motor, just not sure with the transmission bolted up.





I’m concerned with the diagonal tubes on the side when installing and removing the headers. I’m thinking I will need to make them removable.

Overall, Im pleased with what I got done while off from work this last week. While it was time consuming, I enjoyed the tube fitting and look forward to doing a bit more of it in the future.

Let me know what you think.

David

[David]

One more thing... I did get the Alternator kit for the motor and loosely installed it to check for clearance. Nice looking piece and fits tight up against the block and shouldn’t have any issues with header clearance.



David

[David]

Very Nice Work!! I can't tell by the pictures but is the steering shaft going to interfere with the alternator? Also did you did decided to go manual steer over P/S or is the manual rack just for mock up??

Still plan on power steering. Thats just there for mock up. Need to find a good power rack still. If anyone has a good GT rack, they are not using, let me know.

The steering shaft will run right on top of the long tube that runs from the cowl forward. I will need to re-configure the linkage but Ive mapped it out and it should work well.

Much of the time doing these mods was spend on figuring that stuff out.

David

[David]

David, I never gave the steering shaft/alternator situation a thought until I read it here. Is there any interference? Did you notice that the alternator fit is really sloppy? I think it will require a sleeve to take up the space in the block mount. Also, the belt that comes with the alternator "kit" is about 2 feet too long. As soon as I figure out the routing, I'll shop for the correct length belt.

No clearance issues with the steering shaft. I need to re-route due to the chassis mods.

Yeah I had the same intial problem with the alternator. Definately something missing. Sounds like a thing to bring up with Jesse? Did you happen to send him a note?

David

[David]

Quick update.

Yep 05 Tremec 3650.

I got my SPCN(SB100) number first day the DMV was open this year. #128! Im just glad to get that behind me.

We mounted the body and found that the diagonal tubes Im planning to install wont interfere with the header install and removal with the body on. Also, it appears the headers will work fine as-is by welding on a new flange.

I do need a favor.... Can those with more recent Mk3 and Mk4's check and see how much clearance you have between your body and the side pipe? I will loose about .375" in header length bringing the headers closer to the body and would like to find out how much room I have to work with. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

I need to work on getting some new flanges cut out of 3/8th steel. I may end up doing it on my mill but hoping a friend can help out

The engine looks really good in there with the body on. I'll take some pics and post soon.

Sorry for the delay in updates. Work has been so busy lately that I just havent had much time/energy for the car stuff. It should lighten up some in the next few weeks so hope to make a bit quicker progress.

David

[David]

A quick update.

Ive been working with Glenn to come up with a solution for making the 2V 4.6 headers work with the Coyote. After looking at my headers again, I just wasn’t comfortable hacking the flange off the headers. I was concerned it may not be as strong as an alternative so decided to try something different first. This is what Ive come up with.



It’s a flange that will interface with the existing header flange. Take this part and lay it over the existing flange and scribe the ID of the new flange on it. Trim what is outside of the scribe line, slip new flange over so the sealing surface is flush and tack in place and check on the car.

My assumption is if this works out, that it would be best to TIG weld it to recess/control the bead on the back side. Let me know if this seems like a good solution.

Here are a few more pics of the engine with the body one. Lots of hood clearance. The Coyote looks great in the engine bay!








David

[David]

I finally got some time in the shop today and was able to test my idea for adapting the FFR 4.6 2V headers to the Coyote.

It started with this design I created



Glenn (ASTGlenn) was kind enough to cut one out to test fit it. Thanks Glenn!!!





Here's the flange from Glenn laid over the 2V headers. I took a sharpie and marked the inside perimeter of the adapter on the headers to find out where I needed to cut.

I used a plasma cutter to knock off most of what I needed to remove, then used an 40 grit flapper wheel and carbide bur to get the cut to the line I marked.





This is what I ended up with.

I have a small concern about getting the sealing surface flat but am guesing if Im really careful TIG welding it it should be OK. Im going to have Glenn make the final ones a bit different to assist in fitting.

Let me know what you guys think and if it appears to be a good solution.

David