Hey All,
Not sure I like the feel of the cable clutch. I've got the 302 and T5. Was thinking about going hydraulic. Any thoughts?
Dale
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Hey All,
Not sure I like the feel of the cable clutch. I've got the 302 and T5. Was thinking about going hydraulic. Any thoughts?
Dale
I was just looking at a slave cylinder I took out of my Nissan truck. It made me think about trying a hydraulic with my Willwood setup. However, the cable is holding so I don't know if I want to tackle that right now. It wouldn't be much of a chore except mounting the MC. It would be a tight fit in an awkward position with the body on. I don't know that I dislike the cable system for the feel. It just seems to stretch quite often requiring another adjustment. I liked the hydraulic clutches on two hot rods I had so it's probably going on the to do list. Good luck,
WEK.
FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046
What pedal box and what is the state of your build? If a Wilwood pedal box and body off, it's pretty straightforward to install the Mike Forte external setup. Can be done with other pedal boxes and body on, but gets way harder.
Here are pictures and a video of the Forte setup on my Mk4 build. The bracket is for a TKO. The T5 one is a little different. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post134526
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Wilwood, body off.
Then what I said and showed fits your situation perfectly. For the record, I have a 306 and a T5z with a King Cobra clutch in my Mk3. It has an SN95 pedal box and a Ford Racing cable. It works very well. Pedal pressure is quite reasonable and it's very smooth. But it's my opinion that the cable setup for the donor footboxes is a better design than the Wilwood modified for cable setup. I think you would be happy with the hydraulic setup in your build.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I prefer a cable. Simple, cheap, easy, and reliable.
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
Member: www.MileHiCobraClub.com
www.RacingTheExocet.com
Just ordered the slave cylinder form Mike today. That's what I am going with on the Coyote.
Chuck Krueger
MK4 Kit - Picked up 4/5/14, Complete Kit, 3-Link, Wilwood upgrade, Coyote, TKO 500, First Start 7/25/15
2000 C5
2003 C5 Z06
2007 C5 Z06
Just one more concern. Do I need to cut the tube to get the full pedal travel or will it work as is?
Assume you are talking about the chassis tube interference with the Wilwood clutch pedal. I guess it would be possible to get full clutch travel by raising the pedal, and I know some guys do that. But I wanted the clutch pedal to be the same height as the brake pedal, which means the clutch pedal needs to go to the floor. Or thereabout. So yes, some type of clearance required IMO. Some guys notch the chassis tube. Some notch the pedal arm (not my choice). I cut out a piece of the chassis tube and bolted a solid piece on the outside across the cut-out.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I loosened the bolts holding the peddle assembly to the frame and move the assembly as far to the right as I could and then had to notch the clutch peddle a small amount to get it to clear the frame.
Bill Lomenick
Chotis Bill
I notched the tube. It feels much better now. Thanks!
Just finished installing a hydraulic throw-out bearing today and am very pleased with the results. Just wish I had done this during the original build as it would have been a lot easier than the conversion approach. Getting the TKO 600 out was interesting, but accomplished. Reason for the retrofit was a slightly heavy pedal and too much pedal travel. I could have fixed the travel, but I am convinced the hydraulic approach was my best option. I went with a McLeod TOB and their master cylinder with cable that fits in the original cable location. Very straight forward and simple to set up. One word of caution is to bench bleed the master and TOB before installation, rather than bleed the system after installation. The instructions talk about installing first, but their tech support says otherwise. Should have known!
IMG_0434.jpg
I went with the McLeod twin disc clutch and a factory Ford cable, it has a very light pedal and holds great with the 410 stroker. Just a suggestion.
I have a TKO-600 behind a 351W using a Centerforce Dual-Friction and SN-95 pedal box with aftermarket adjustable cable and firewall adjuster. Works well and simple. My friend's Mk 3.1 with Wilwood pedals never did work well with the cable, binding and creaking all the time.
We first did the pedal update from FFR, which helped, but changed the pedal throw and he didn't like that any better. We since upgraded to Mike Forte's external hydraulic setup and it works great. I like the idea of the mechanical fork and pivot stud and you don't have to pull the transmission. We did the upgrade on a completed car and with the pedal box opening made from the FFR kit it wasn't too bad to work on a completed car. We had it done in a weekend. I'm 45 and he's 73, so our backs felt it for the next day or two, but it was a relatively bolt-in install.
HTH...
Mark
Modified Mustangs & Fords Project Snake Charmer
FFR5310 Mk 3 Roadster
Tungsten Gray/Silver Stripes
Yeah Mustang Man, At 67 I had a few sore spots myself. I was going with the external slave cylinder myself, but decided to get rid of as many mechanical parts as possible. Plus Joe Dederichs of Dederichs Motorsports (local trans specialist) convinced me the hydraulic TOB was more dependable. He had gone both ways in his years of experience and felt better with the TOB. But, I know there are good arguments on both sides.
I agree the opening on the top of the foot box is essential for such a conversion.
David
I'm having fun with the cable. It works and I'm old school. Like it.
Really! Holy crap! I just lightly touch the gas pedal and wow! I need a parking lot and pylons to get used to it.
So I've been up and down the driveway every day. The body is done. I can't get it on because all my friends are gone this weekend. Is there some kind of hoist that someone has built? I so want the body on!!!