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Thread: 818s Build Tri-cities, WA

  1. #1
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    818s Build Tri-cities, WA

    Hey,
    So this thread is a little late, ive already got the donor car torn apart and the kit should be delivered this week. Im going to try and hold of to the ABS, do a custom interior and the HVAC system. Here are the pics ive taken so far. Please comment with any questions of helpful hints.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    good luck with build.

  3. #3

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    Awesome. Glad to see more kits in Washington.

  4. #4
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Sean, Looks like you have a head start on things with the donor. Looking good, hope your delivery goes well and you don't have a long list of back ordered items. Stop by if you are every in the Seattle area.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  5. #5
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    So i got the kit delivered, finished the inventory, and got the frame powder coated. I picked up the frame yesterday. Last night i got the front and rear suspension installed and got the engine in. the engine was a pain, mostly because the factory exhaust had a heat shield around it that i had to remove with the engine hanging half way in the car. Today I got the foot box and interior side walls installed. Also a pain, im a little disappointed with the fitment of these parts, and the fact that the installation manual uses an old design foot box. But either way its done now.

    Ok, so when i went to assemble the CV drive shafts the tri lope assembly doesn't fit on the shaft provided by factory five. I think the shafts that were in my donor car were aftermarket. Does anyone know where i can get factory tri lobes? I would really like to avoid buying the entire assembly from the dealer. Also what have you guys done to attach the sway bar on the front suspension. The mounting brackets are flat but the bushing brackets for mine are tapered, and it doesn't like like i could bend them to fit.

    Ill post pictures later.

  6. #6
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Also what have you guys done to attach the sway bar on the front suspension. The mounting brackets are flat but the bushing brackets for mine are tapered, and it doesn't like like i could bend them to fit.
    I got Prothane 17mm universal Type A bushings from Amazon, work perfect:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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    ok, so here are some of the pics from the build so far.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    here are some more, i can only upload ones that are less than 2MB and even then its really inconsistent. But everything is going pretty well with the build.

    One point of note. when running the flexible coolant lines, make sure you use one of the 2 sections for each side. I used one of the sections to cut both of the rear pieces that attach to the engine and now i don't have enough to run both the front pieces.
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    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    sweet textured powder coat job on the frame

  10. #10
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    yea, it really helps hide any of the left over weld splatter from the factory, And all the dents, dings and scratches that i tried to put in it.

  11. #11
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    So yesterday i picked up some of the aluminum i sent of for powder coating and got the front fire wall installed. Today i got the front flexible brake lines in and managed to install the clutch line. i figured out that it was going to take more that 2 full length lines to run the clutch, so i started one from the front and one form the back, figured id have to run a loop in one of the shorter lines to get the length right. But as luck would have it one of the 18 in lines joined the 2 perfectly. Most of the Pics my camera takes are too big to upload so there only a couple this time.
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    Ok, kinda got lost in what I had talked about last and i have moved into a new house. So after a couple weeks of packing, and unpacking Im finally back at the 818. Got the fuel tank in the mail last week, so i got that installed. Somehow i managed to lose the factory filter, so i just installed an inline holley filter. Also got all the brake lines run. they tuned out pretty good. New steering wheels also in the mix. got that installed, looks great. Went with the quick release to make it a little easier to get out of the car. Now im onto the wiring harness, maybe the most difficult part. so ive got the battery in and the harness laid out, i started cutting away some of the loom, mostly the electrical tape and plastic sheathing. That way i can get everything to where it needs to go. I got the FFR battery cable run to the starter, the yellow 10ga factory wire that was apart of the brake master cylinder loom, i just cut the loom away and ran it to the starter. Also spliced in the 36in of 10ga to get power to the main fuse box. Also ran the ground strap for the engine and grounded the battery. I thought i did a pretty good job labeling everything when i took it off the can, but i missed the fuel harness.

    Question #1
    for the fuel harness which of the 4 plugs goes to the fuel pump and sending unit? I took a pic but im not sure its going to let me upload it so ill try a describe it a best possible. 2 white plugs, one 6 wire and on 2 wire, then 4 black plugs. i think the black ones are for the vapor canister and the white ones are the ones i need. And if the 6 wire plug is for the fuel pump, which ones actually wire in, the FFR pump only has 2 wires.

    Question #2
    The manual has me splice in 62in of 10 ga wire to the start wire and looks like its running over to the same place as the battery cable and main fuse box power. Where does this wire come from, does it connect with a ring terminal or just a slide together one? All this would be much easier to explain if i had pics.

    Question #3
    With everything ive described should the engine turn over, granted i dont have oil, fuel in the tank, or coolant. Im just trying to figure out at what point i should be worried that i messed something up. Also when i Actually connect the battery to ground(the frame) the one of the relays in the main fuse box actuates about every 2 seconds, and there something going on with the air flow sensor between the inter cooler and the intake manifold.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Ok, i think i figured out how to shrink the photo size and get them up here. these pics are related to the questions i just posted about.
    3658, just a pic of the rats nest im dealing with right now. Not as bad as it looks.
    3662, the battery ground
    3657 and 3656, I think this might be the wire the manual is talking about, its a yellow wire the travels from the ignition(blue plug) to the fuse panel.
    3652, what i currently have wired to the starter.
    3653, you can see in this pic the yellow starter wire goes to the ecu, (this is a factory wire), the splice i did to get power to the main fuse panel and the battery power wire.
    3654, just a pic of my new steering wheel
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Ok, this is a post just to get all the pics that i didnt get before cause they were too big. this is everything ive got on my car so far. Now i think im going to finish running the radiator lines.IMG_3249.jpgIMG_3125.jpgIMG_3134.jpgIMG_3135.jpgIMG_3250.jpgIMG_3124.jpgIMG_3110.jpgIMG_3109.jpgIMG_3102.jpgIMG_3126.jpg

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  23. #23

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    What date was your kit delivered?

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    April 30th i think.

  25. #25

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    Awesome progress. We're going to have to meet up once we're both done

  26. #26
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    progress

    OK,
    not sure exactly where i left off, I kinda took the summer off from the car and have just been getting back into it. When i left the car i had just started with the wiring harness. I had a little trouble getting the car to turn over with the key, turned out that the clutch switch needed to be adjusted. Then the car wouldn't start. I had narrowed it down to something with the immobilizer module. Ended up being the plug between the steering wheel and the immobilizer wasn't connected. I felt kinda dumb, but at the same time I'm glad it was something easy.

  27. #27
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Sean, good to hear that the engine kicked over, does this mean the rest of the wiring is done ? Now tat we are into the rainy, dull grey time of year you should be able to make great progress !
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  28. #28
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    That last post was actually like an interim post. I’ve been making great progress the last couple of weeks. I finished the wiring harness, well, I’m sure there’s plenty of wire that could either be shortened or cut out altogether but I’m done with it. Next I got the transmission tunnel installed, and the upper firewall. At that point I was in full go cart mode, took it up the street and back a couple times. It’s awesome.

  29. #29
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    Next I started with the body. Got the side pods and the rear bumper mounted, with the rear tail lights and reverse lights wired in. All that was pretty easy.

  30. #30
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    Up next was the front bumper and the headlights, this I really struggled with. The manual doesn’t really show you how the head lights need to be aligned in their buckets and where the need to be in the bumper to have the front fenders line up right with the hood. So after I have put it all together and taken it apart 3 or 4 time to try different things, I got to a place where I’m ok with the amount of bondo filling I’m going to have to do later, not perfect but pretty good. I also got the head lights all wired in. Not sure what I’m going to do with the fog lights, the Subaru was wired for them so maybe ill get some cool lights later.

  31. #31
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    Got a couple race seats for cheap online, I think $390 for the pair shipped, they seem pretty good. I have to fab up some mounts for them, I just used all thread and some ¼ angle steel to make them and I will weld together something a little stronger when I pill the seats out next. I still haven’t installed the aluminum under the seats so I’ll do those at the same time.

  32. #32
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    Got 5 1/4” pioneer speakers for the car, turns out they fit in the door perfectly, sound really good too. I am a little worried about rattle when it’s all together so I might put in some Dina-mate. I used some of the left over cardboard to make a stencil for a rear speaker mount/arm rest for between the seats. Also got a dual din pioneer radio, Appradio 3 is the one I got, But it’s is wider that the center console, so that’s going to take some custom work also.

  33. #33
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    Right now I’m working on the doors, and my windshield should be installed in its frame the next couple days. So ill have that to install. Also just got a call from the tire place, maybe my wheels and tires are in.

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  35. #35

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    Wow, great progress.

    Im getting ready to start mounting my body here shortly. Looks like we'll both be ready for Spring.

    Im sensing a meet up on near Mount Rainier in the future.

  36. #36
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Looking good, keep posting progress
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  37. #37
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    Couple steps forward, Couple steps back

    Just an update, I finished assembling the passenger door, its installed but a couple screws on the bottom scrape a little. Started on the driver door, its much easier after having already done one. There is something a little hinky about the latch, it is really hard to close all the way. It captures easy but then wont latch, so i ordered another one on ebay. Also got the new wheels and tire in, I like em'. And i mostly finished the center speaker? arm rest i was working on. I have the cardboardtemplate i use if anyone wants it.

    IMG_4315.jpgIMG_4316.jpgIMG_4346.jpg

  38. #38
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    Questons

    #1
    Is this the same shift boot everyone else got with the kit.seems like one of those square peg and round hole things.

    #2
    Does anyone know where this piece of aluminum goes? I asked the factory and they referenced me to the aluminum placement guide in the manual, which is only really useful from one angle and if you know the part number.

    IMG_4348.jpgIMG_4349.jpg

  39. #39
    Senior Member mjazzka's Avatar
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    Wish I could help with the questions, but I'm just here to find out where you got your seats!

  40. #40
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    #1
    Is this the same shift boot everyone else got with the kit.seems like one of those square peg and round hole things.

    #2
    Does anyone know where this piece of aluminum goes? I asked the factory and they referenced me to the aluminum placement guide in the manual, which is only really useful from one angle and if you know the part number.

    IMG_4348.jpgIMG_4349.jpg
    That piece of aluminum is the engine belly pan. That was my first thought. Now I'm not sure.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 11-22-2014 at 01:05 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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