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Thread: iWire Turn Key 818 Harness for R and S Models

  1. #41
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    ^ that's kind of how we started, but after the tangled mess we had, it resulted in plugging in the main engine plugs, and the ecu plugs, then chopping everything off, and wiring everything starting right at the ecu. Know this now, I wish I would have budgeted either a wiring service like in this thread, or done Wayne's stand alone setup.

  2. #42
    Senior Member R.Spec's Avatar
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    Hey I am r spec!

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Samiam1017 View Post
    Any plans on modifying factory harnesses to work as stand alone factory ECU? With just a power ground and switched lead coming off for hook up.
    I can definitely build that if anyone wants it. I've done similar setups for VWs and Porsche's that already have the body side of the harness. It's not quite that simple since there are some inputs/outputs left over. Off the top of my head the leads that would be left over to hook up are:
    Battery power
    Ignition (Key on) Power
    Starter
    Cluster inputs (VSS/Tach/CEL/Coolant/Oil Pressure) - I could also wire up the cluster as part of the build if you choose
    Radiator fans (ground side trigger to a relay from ECU)
    There are probably a few more that I can recall at the moment, but that's the basic setup. You would still have to figure out how you want to run all of the body functions like headlights/turn signals/illumination/etc. This is no easy feat unless you are running the bare minimum to be able to get away with a couple switches to run things. It will also get a bit more clumsy/messy unless you tie into the fuseboxes I use to run the engine.


    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    my friend and I decided to try and tackle just building the harness ourselves from scratch. definitely time consuming, using one of my garage doors to post all the diagrams on. From what I noticed, there are very few actual fuses in the main circuits you actually need, kinda crazy to think about. I would also have to say Subaru's diagrams kinda suck imo. Now that we got it going, seems a lot easier than trying to make the stock harness work as it was. My only worry is if we might have deleted something critical for the ECU to function, flash, etc. since we deleted so many things, hopefully it all works out! We basically wired in only what we needed to control the engine and cluster basically, everything else such as lights, etc. we put all on their own separate circuit controlled by a switch panel, is there any issue doing it that way?
    It may work out OK. I use a combination of both factory and new. I cut out everything that isn't related to the engine and run fresh wire for everything body related while reusing plugs as needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    I'm doing something similar and I left behind at least 75% of the factory wires. Keep in mind that I'm keeping cruise control, radio, all the switches on the steering column, and wiring in heat/defrost.

    The biggest problem with the Subaru diagrams is that they leave out anything not relevant to the system that's on that page. There's a bunch of cases where it looks like a wire only goes to one place but it really goes to many places and you have to look at several diagrams to get the whole picture.

    My strategy is to cut all the grounds apart and run them to a local chassis point when I install. I also cut all the power supply wires to each system so I can use a single smaller fusebox. I left as much wire as I possibly could, but I ended up extending many of them. The only devices I have under the dash are the high beam and daytime running light relays. Everything else is under the engine cover. I don't like working under dashboards.
    My guess is that will be a bit tough to do this way. The end result will probably be a fusebox area that is the same size because of the number of fuses required for both constant and ignition powered systems.

    Quote Originally Posted by R.Spec View Post
    Hey I am r spec!
    Hahaha! You are the harness. I need to come up with a better name for the harness since it works in both Rs and Ss.
    Last edited by iWire; 06-27-2014 at 04:22 PM.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by iWire View Post
    My guess is that will be a bit tough to do this way. The end result will probably be a fusebox area that is the same size because of the number of fuses required for both constant and ignition powered systems.
    Well, it's not easy for sure. I'm fairly confident I can get down to one fusebox from the two that came in the donor - I'm using the same one you put in your harness. If I didn't enjoy electrical work, I would have had you do mine.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    Well, it's not easy for sure. I'm fairly confident I can get down to one fusebox from the two that came in the donor - I'm using the same one you put in your harness. If I didn't enjoy electrical work, I would have had you do mine.
    Good luck to you! Let me know if you change your mind. ;D
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  6. #46
    iWire's Avatar
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    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  7. #47
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    question, do I technically need the immobilizer control module/keyless entry? if I completely delete the system, how do I duplicate the signal to the ECU?

  8. #48
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    question, do I technically need the immobilizer control module/keyless entry? if I completely delete the system, how do I duplicate the signal to the ECU?
    There is no way around it. You need them. I asked Brian at IWire the same thing.

    I can tuck the key/immobilizer/cylinder under the dash hidden from view and use my start button.
    Thanks- Chad
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  9. #49
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    There is no way around it. You need them. I asked Brian at IWire the same thing.

    I can tuck the key/immobilizer/cylinder under the dash hidden from view and use my start button.
    ok, I wasn't sure if it was just simply a voltage reference back to the ecu that could be replicated. I planned on running my car s2000 style with a key and push button, but wasn't sure if there was a way around the immobilizer.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    ok, I wasn't sure if it was just simply a voltage reference back to the ecu that could be replicated. I planned on running my car s2000 style with a key and push button, but wasn't sure if there was a way around the immobilizer.
    As Chad said, no way around it but it's pretty easy to basically ignore it like we did with his harness. As long as the box is working and can pick up the key frequency, it'll be happy so you can use any start method you like.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
    iWire Subaru Wiring Services
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  11. #51
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iWire View Post
    As Chad said, no way around it but it's pretty easy to basically ignore it like we did with his harness. As long as the box is working and can pick up the key frequency, it'll be happy so you can use any start method you like.
    ok well I just wired the whole thing back in so should work, other than I cant find the antenna at the moment, but it should turn up. hopefully this all works out ok, Im now seeing why people pay to have this thing done. starting from scratch kind of sucks.

  12. #52
    Senior Member Brando's Avatar
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    My iwire harness has worked flawlessly thus far. Just a shout out to Iwire for making such a great product. Thanks Brian

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    ok well I just wired the whole thing back in so should work, other than I cant find the antenna at the moment, but it should turn up. hopefully this all works out ok, Im now seeing why people pay to have this thing done. starting from scratch kind of sucks.
    The immobilizer antenna is in the OEM steering setup around the ignition key switch...small white connector. {on the 06, don't know about other years}. I also looked for it for a while as the engine wouldn't start. Once connected..Bingo!

  14. #54
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    My IWire Harness looks awesome. I have not installed it yet, I just need to finish a few items before laying it inside.
    Thanks- Chad
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  15. #55
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by freds View Post
    The immobilizer antenna is in the OEM steering setup around the ignition key switch...small white connector. {on the 06, don't know about other years}. I also looked for it for a while as the engine wouldn't start. Once connected..Bingo!
    thanks for that, I was wondering what the heck the single connector was I didn't have plugged in haha. On a side note, never again will I try to build my own harness. Im just praying it works right away, I don't want to have to trouble shoot this if it doesn't.
    Last edited by philly15; 07-04-2014 at 04:27 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    thanks for that, I was wondering what the heck the single connector was I didn't have plugged in haha. On a side note, never again will I try to build my own harness. Im just praying it works right away, I don't want to have to trouble shoot this if it doesn't.


    Good Luck!!!

    fred

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brando View Post
    My iwire harness has worked flawlessly thus far. Just a shout out to Iwire for making such a great product. Thanks Brian
    Thanks Brando! I appreciate you taking the chance on me. Plus driving your car has fueled the fire for me to get one.

    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    My IWire Harness looks awesome. I have not installed it yet, I just need to finish a few items before laying it inside.
    Less typing, more working!

    Quote Originally Posted by freds View Post
    The immobilizer antenna is in the OEM steering setup around the ignition key switch...small white connector. {on the 06, don't know about other years}. I also looked for it for a while as the engine wouldn't start. Once connected..Bingo!
    Yep!

    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    thanks for that, I was wondering what the heck the single connector was I didn't have plugged in haha. On a side note, never again will I try to build my own harness. Im just praying it works right away, I don't want to have to trouble shoot this if it doesn't.
    I totally understand, which is why I have a job.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
    iWire Subaru Wiring Services
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  18. #58
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    Ok, I just ran into the first problem that actually confused me. This is for an 06 wrx, on the diagrams it shows the VSS as a 4 pin connector. Clearly the sensor in the transmission is a 3 wire. I've gone through diagrams for the past hour and cannot figure out why the diagrams all conflict. I have only found 1 connector that fits into the speed sensor in the trans, so I plan on just using it. The problem I'm having is the wire color doesn't match any of the diagrams, but it's the only connector I've found that fits into the sensor. I was wondering if you had any idea which pin was what on the VSS? So far all I've established is 1 pin goes to the cluster obviously (Green/Yellow wire), 1 goes to ground in the same wiring as the fuel level sensor/a couple ECU pins (Black/Red), and 1 goes to the DLC in a bout a million splices(Green/Black). Im just not sure which ones to wire where, since the diagram shows the sensor as a 4 wire, so the pin numbers are different than the 3 wire I found. Any help would be awesome!

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    There's a short adapter cable.


  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    Ok, I just ran into the first problem that actually confused me. This is for an 06 wrx, on the diagrams it shows the VSS as a 4 pin connector. Clearly the sensor in the transmission is a 3 wire. I've gone through diagrams for the past hour and cannot figure out why the diagrams all conflict. I have only found 1 connector that fits into the speed sensor in the trans, so I plan on just using it. The problem I'm having is the wire color doesn't match any of the diagrams, but it's the only connector I've found that fits into the sensor. I was wondering if you had any idea which pin was what on the VSS? So far all I've established is 1 pin goes to the cluster obviously (Green/Yellow wire), 1 goes to ground in the same wiring as the fuel level sensor/a couple ECU pins (Black/Red), and 1 goes to the DLC in a bout a million splices(Green/Black). Im just not sure which ones to wire where, since the diagram shows the sensor as a 4 wire, so the pin numbers are different than the 3 wire I found. Any help would be awesome!
    Quote Originally Posted by Jaime View Post
    There's a short adapter cable.


    Yep it's just a jumper. It's a 4 pin connector but only 3 pins are used. I take out the jumper and just wire it direct to the 3 pin plug at the sensor.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  21. #61
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    Ok, I talked to the guy I bought the car from, he replaced that connector a while back, so none of the wire colors match. That's what was confusing me. He eliminated that jumper wire. So what order do the pins go? I'm not sure which wire to connect where.

  22. #62
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    Pin 1 is signal - it's usually Green/Yellow. It goes to the ECU and the cluster (and the TCM on an Automatic).
    Pin 2 is ground - should be Black/Red.
    Pin 3 is +12V ignition power. Should be Green/Black.

  23. #63
    Senior Member philly15's Avatar
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    Does the numbering go from left to right on the sensor? or is it different?

  24. #64
    Senior Member fact5racer's Avatar
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    Hopefully I'll finish getting my harness out of my donor this weekend so I can ship it off to Brian the first of the week.

  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly15 View Post
    Does the numbering go from left to right on the sensor? or is it different?
    Pin 1 is at bottom on my picture.

  26. #66
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Boom- Electrically Alive.

    Thanks Brian.
    Thanks- Chad
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  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by fact5racer View Post
    Hopefully I'll finish getting my harness out of my donor this weekend so I can ship it off to Brian the first of the week.
    Sounds great!

    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Boom- Electrically Alive.

    Thanks Brian.
    You're quite welcome! Sorry for the delay on answering your questions...birthday weekend.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  28. #68
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    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  29. #69
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iWire View Post
    Looks a little different, did not see and controls for lights
    Tony Nadalin
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  30. #70
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    His was like Chad's and we used a rocker switch for the hi/low beams and no signals.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  31. #71
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iWire View Post
    His was like Chad's and we used a rocker switch for the hi/low beams and no signals.
    Must be a rookie racer as he should know that you need turn signals on the track for passing and pulling into the hot pits
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  32. #72
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Must be a rookie racer as he should know that you need turn signals on the track for passing and pulling into the hot pits
    Bahahahahaha.....Not if you are the one doing the passing....... Plus, I had Brian wire up my brights so I can "flash to pass". Hand signals for pits..... I don't even use signals in my streets cars
    Thanks- Chad
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  33. #73
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    We don't need no stinking signals. I have been autocrossing for about six years, and I have not passed a single car. Rick D

  34. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    Must be a rookie racer as he should know that you need turn signals on the track for passing and pulling into the hot pits
    Quote Originally Posted by C.Plavan View Post
    Bahahahahaha.....Not if you are the one doing the passing....... Plus, I had Brian wire up my brights so I can "flash to pass". Hand signals for pits..... I don't even use signals in my streets cars
    Quote Originally Posted by drdracing View Post
    We don't need no stinking signals. I have been autocrossing for about six years, and I have not passed a single car. Rick D
    You guys are killing me.
    Last edited by iWire; 07-31-2014 at 12:17 PM.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  35. #75
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Nice work on the newest harness Brian! Hope you take some documentation pictures of my harness like that so I can add them to my build thread.

  36. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by metros View Post
    Nice work on the newest harness Brian! Hope you take some documentation pictures of my harness like that so I can add them to my build thread.
    Thank you! I definitely will take pics on the progress, need to keep the FB page updated.
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  37. #77
    Senior Member SixStar's Avatar
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    We're planning on using an iWire kit for 818R #85. Given the quality of the kit vs. the time it would take us to reproduce it just makes sense. Delegating and leaving things to the experts is one of our key methods for building the best cars. Let the experts be experts!
    Owner/builder - AEM Intakes 818R #85

  38. #78
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SixStar View Post
    We're planning on using an iWire kit for 818R #85. Given the quality of the kit vs. the time it would take us to reproduce it just makes sense. Delegating and leaving things to the experts is one of our key methods for building the best cars. Let the experts be experts!
    You will be very happy with the outcome, and same exact reasons why I went after iWire
    Tony Nadalin
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  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by SixStar View Post
    We're planning on using an iWire kit for 818R #85. Given the quality of the kit vs. the time it would take us to reproduce it just makes sense. Delegating and leaving things to the experts is one of our key methods for building the best cars. Let the experts be experts!
    Thanks guys and I totally agree as I will not be doing the mechanical work on any 818s. Haha!

    Quote Originally Posted by FFRSpec72 View Post
    You will be very happy with the outcome, and same exact reasons why I went after iWire
    Get that thing on the road Anthony. ;P
    When we say to our customers "if there is anything you need, please ask," we mean it.
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  40. #80
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    Hey Brian,

    FYI- I installed the VSS simulator as we discussed. I know it works because my MPH jumps around from 20 to 40 mph tricking the ECU. However, I still have not been thrown into limp mode Pre-VSS sim zooming around the neighborhood. So who knows? Regardless, guys like me have an option ($40). I will have GPS MPH on the datalogger.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
    1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
    1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)

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