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Thread: Coupe 65 for Australia

  1. #41
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    Geez, somethings wrong with your photo, steering wheel is on the wrong side!! LOL
    Bill

    Coupe #421, Picked Up 11/15/08, started 1/1/09 - Rebuilt mildly massaged 302, T5, 3 Link, and Loads of Extras

  2. #42
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    .. and its taken a bit of work to keep it there Bill..

  3. #43
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    Still fitting off components..

    Heater done, power steering plumbed in, ordered more radiator hose after being advised that an LS3 runs from the inlet of the water pump to the top of the radiator (highest point). Trying to borrow a hose clamp tool for the air con fittings.. most of the hoses are cut and fitted and the firewall fittings have been installed (AN type all round).

    Made a much more decent clamp for the receiver drier (2.5mm plate steel), wrapped it in a rubber PVC pipe joiner sleeve and fixed the lot with SS worm drive clamps.

    Didn't make my goal of getting the engine started in Jan.. Feb may be a possibility.. electrics are nowhere at the moment.


    Radiator floor and side plates fitted.. although any mention in the build manual would have been helpful..! Added a 3mm plate to the floor and joined it to the previously reinforced angle under the radiator, as well as fitting a center stay. Should be ok at 100mph..

    One day at a time..

    Cheers

    Chris
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    Last edited by Sydney Chris; 02-19-2015 at 05:10 AM.

  4. #44
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    Getting more serious with the dash now the AC is mostly sorted.

    Have ordered a few 5mm LED's to replace the ridiculously flimsy wires that hang out of the conventional bulbs on the AC slide control. Will use them for the dash warning lights as well after I make some bezels out of ABS plastic. Have a single DIN radio / GPS to fit under the cross brace and AC vents / controls over the top.

    Settled on the treatment I am going to use for the LED tail lights I have as well.. is a Corvette / Ferrari style semi recessed bucket fitting.

    Cheers

    Chris
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    Last edited by Sydney Chris; 02-24-2015 at 06:05 PM.

  5. #45
    Coupe Modifier RonSchofield's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sydney Chris View Post
    Still no engine mounts... so the welding remains on hold unfortunately.

    Am moving forward with the project known as THE DOORS..!

    I was looking to get PS foam or the green florist foam to make the shape I wanted for the door trims (as I was looking to fit sliding glass - ie up down), exterior handles and even power the windows with an arm rest.

    I've not used fiberglass in this way before. I have seen posts where some people use the foam as the template and advise they lay the glass over it then dissolve the foam out with a thinner.

    For those that have made fiberglass sections, is this an appropriate method..?

    With thanks

    Chris
    I have lots of information on my blog for custom fiberglass.

    Here are a couple of pictures of my interior.

    20120122_3.jpg
    20120122_5.jpg
    Type 65 Coupe Builder / Coupe Parts Vendor

    Websites:
    myCoupe Build
    F5Registry

  6. #46
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    Is beautiful.. thanks.. will give it a very close review..

    Chris

  7. #47
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    Build update after a frustrating few months..

    Had a mate that had done a lot of the planning, but was not as confident on the implementation for the electrics, which included a Motec PDM, replacing the fuse panel. Have done what I can over the last 8 weeks, whilst fiddling with a range of other mechanical bits before finally calling in an expert to get it tied together and connected correctly..

    Was getting to pre gokarting checks, when I found I couldnt actually get the clutch pedal to actuate once it was fully bled. Turns out that the engine builder didnt check the crush on the thrust washer for the hydraulic SS on the TR6060 gearbox. Have a second set of spacers which are due tomorrow to get the 14- 17mmm of preload required (to stop the slave cylinder piston popping out and jamming). After which I will be able to reinstall the engine and gearbox, fingers crossed, bleed the clutch, reconnect the wiring and install the dash, then the seats.. ! Fair to say its been a fairly significant setback to the build schedule, but as we say down under.. things sometimes happen.. !! (or other abbreviations which tend to be a little more descriptive.. lol).

    Best to all..

    Cheers

    Chris
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    Last edited by Sydney Chris; 04-28-2015 at 12:32 AM.

  8. #48
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
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    Keep at it Chris! I'm still working on my dash finalizing plumbing for the AC ducts. Seems never ending sometimes!

    John
    Finished the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Sniper EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  9. #49
    Senior Member Barrel's Avatar
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    Chris. I have sent you a PM.

  10. #50
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    thanks John and Neil..

    Am keeping at it.. is such a shame to go so far backwards at times.

    John... I have a 3D printer (a makerbot 2x) if you needed any tricky bits printed. I made a couple of reducers for the vents so I could run a smaller duct size to multiple outlets, as well as 60 - 50mm T pieces... just send me the design in .stl format or PM if interested and I can send the files I have to check if they are of any use.

    Cheers

    Chris

  11. #51
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    The plot still thickens on this one.. !!

    Decided to get rid of the Centreforce clutch as they are apparently heavy and very noisy. Got the GM standard clutch and pressure plate to match the LS3 / TR 6060 combination, but as per the included pic the pressure plate wont compress all the way to meet the flywheel.

    Is it possible I could need to swap the flywheel over as well..?

    With thanks

    Chris
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    Last edited by Sydney Chris; 04-29-2015 at 03:37 AM.

  12. #52
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
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    Chris,

    Now that is tempting, but I think it will be really hard to measure all that I need so that it fits.
    Thanks for he offer though.

    John
    Finished the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Sniper EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  13. #53
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    After several months of clutch, bell housing, master cylinder and CSS preload issues I am picking up where I left off in Jan... (2015..!!).

    Engine and gearbox back in, new gearbox mount fabricated, moving the holes 15mm forward to stop the lower half of the bracket hitting the back of the gearbox casing (cudos to the 'professional' I commissioned to set these things up correctly, this was the last thing he touched and the last one requiring reworking to make it actually correct..!).

    Fitted an e-stopp park brake controller this evening, welded a small bracket to the transmission tunnel with the cables due to be ready in the next day or so.. .

    Need to figure out why I was modifying the AC duct next.. ! then run the electrical looms and refit the dash panels.

    Best to all ..

    Cheers

    Chris
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  14. #54
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    IRS set up

    Making tangible progress... drivetrain locked down, for hopefully the last time, drive shaft in and back to prepping for gokart. Brakes and clutch finished off, park brake controller and cables installed, electrical works next week.. .

    Went to check the IRS set up.

    The FFR manual advises the rear suspension width, measured according to the included pic between the top hats, (with the control arms at ride height) of 59.00" (or 1498mm).

    Included pics of the Willwood brake hardware I have and a second drawing of the dimensions they currently stand.

    The control arms were set up as per the manual, with the eyelet fully inserted then wound out 4 turns.

    Am a little perplexed (and will admit to being a simple lad at times) as to how the top hat to top hat dimensions can be so close to the required width and the body apparently overhangs the 10.5" x 17" Hallibrand wheels by so much (an additional two inches per side). Even if the sills pull in when mounted on the chassis the wheel arches wont come in that much..?

    Is it correct to assume that the 59.1" I currently have with the Willwood set up (assuming they are equivalent width to the FFR brakes) requires adjustment to the recommended 59.00" when measuring from top hat to top hat..? and if so is 0.1" a significant enough difference to need to make any further adjustments..?

    I also had a reply to advise there was a tech bulletin re the IRS set up, questioning whether 59" was in fact the target measurement. Appreciate any info that's out there...

    Cheers from down under..

    Chris
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  15. #55
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    [QUOTE=Sydney Chris;203036]Making tangible progress... drivetrain locked down, for hopefully the last time, drive shaft in and back to prepping for gokart. Brakes and clutch finished off, park brake controller and cables installed, electrical works next week.. .

    Went to check the IRS set up............]


    Hi Chris,

    Do you have wheels with the correct offset?

    We went to a great deal of trouble to work with Bob from Vintage Wheels when my roadster was being built to ensure clearances were correctly. I have custom aluminium rear hubs that use the Commodore axle and internal parking brake mechanism coupled with AP 4 pot calipers so it all had to fit perfectly.

    P1020120 - Copy (Small).JPG
    Last edited by afaa; 07-01-2015 at 04:12 PM.

  16. #56
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    Hi Afaa,

    Nice set up.. thanks for the pic..

    The wheels are the FFR supplied Hallibrand replicas. So I assume so.

    I did get a reply from FFR overnight. 59.1" is ok for the track width. A spacer of max 1" is recommended and a 335 series rear can fit under the guard on a 10.5" rim.

    Cheers

    Chris

  17. #57
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    Hi Chris,

    My rears are Vintage Halibrand knock offs 17 x 10.5 with a 5.00 backspace. Used 315/35/17 Sumitomo HTZR tyres, a little less room to play with than the Daytona I reckon. Wasn't in country at the time but think the guys made a couple of iterations of the hubs to get it all correct.

  18. #58
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    Been a while since Ive posted, delays seems to have been the order of the day for most of this year, but have finally made some steady progress.

    Managed to get the MoTeC CAN bus working after a couple of weeks, now have the right configuration loaded into the PDM and tested most of the circuits / devices. Went to turn the starter over and found the fuel pump (Bosch 044) was tripping the 10A circuit it was on. At least with the PDM Manager software connected you can watch it go live, build up current then trip and reset based on the logic configuration, without blowing conventional fuses.

    Took delivery of the front tyres (Kumoh K36) last week and had them fitted. Rears (315/35) arrived today. Am using them as bar stools for the moment.. ! is a lot of rubber.. .

    Dropped the body on and loaded the car onto a trailer to get the 'registration' exhaust measured and fitted up. Also have the FFR side pipes in hand for track runs.. .

    Cheers..

    Chris
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  19. #59
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    Looking good! I really like all the graffiti on the foot box. LOL.

  20. #60
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    My daughter likes to draw as she talks to her daddy.. Haven't had the heart to tell her it will get covered with insulation shortly..

  21. #61
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    Made some progress with the exhaust and wiring in the past couple of weeks.

    Have a 'rego' exhaust made up and fitted, using two mufflers back to back and 1.5" pipe that exits out the rear of the car. These are fed from some nicely made headers into a cat, which to meet emissions (due to size), is inside the engine bay.

    Started cutting out the bonnet for lights and vents. Had a set of slightly wider gill style fender vents made up which Im happy with..

    Bonnet sanded down, ready for filler.. as well as pre cut the double weave matting to reinforce it and seal in the additional foam to protect the wheel arches.

    Should get the car back from the sparkie next week.. need to do a 4 wheel alignment, then some gokart testing..! finally..

    Cheers

    ChrisIMG_6711.JPGIMG_6724.JPGIMG_6746.JPGIMG_6747.JPG
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    Last edited by Sydney Chris; 09-13-2015 at 04:59 AM.

  22. #62
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    Had a decent day with sorting the electrical issues created by the overwhelming ignorance, incompetence or complete apathy of a northern Sydney Kobra builder.. not only was there a number of wiring faults, that he specifically introduced into a clean harness, the ancillaries were incorrect for the motor type, the tune was from a mafless 6L motor (L98), rather than an LS3 with a MAF as the factory runs, one of the plugs for the ECU was wired and then installed backwards.. ! Yes .. it is staggering.. well its staggering if you knew how everything he touched he did a half baked, inaccurate and totally flawed job on.

    Fingers crossed this is the last of his stuff ups, can get the fuel pumps rewired to a higher amper breaker tomorrow and see if it will hold fuel pressure and run.

    Cheers

    Chris

  23. #63
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    After a couple of weeks the car is running. One minor oil lead and a split radiator hose later and we seem to be holding most of the various fluids.. . I had a double row timing chain fitted when I did the cam and valves (LS3 motor), but now have the issue that the cam sensor is not picking up the correct number of pulses.. it appears its one pulse per revolution, not the two that would be present with the standard cam sprocket. Look forward to any thoughts or advice on resolving this one..

    With thanks

    Chris

  24. #64
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    New timing gear now installed.. you pay an engine builder and they put in the wrong parts.. less than unimpressed. The Chev / Holden LSIII V8 has 4 pulses per revolution.. two long, two short... was a pleasant 5 - 6 hours pulling the motor down and replacing these parts.. is all running now.. Air Con commissioned today.. air flow and balancing needs to be attended to as well as finalising the commissioning of the electrics before a wheel alignment and I suspect a short spin around the block..
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  25. #65
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    Sorry to hear about your engine problems. I do not trust anyone but myself on those things. I am fortunate to be able to do them myself. Still I really like how your coupe is coming along. I wish you the best on your first ride.

  26. #66
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    thanks Wallace.. apparently the cam that was installed is pulling a very low manifold pressure, leading to a fairly dirty exhaust at idle, which will significantly impact the emissions tests required for rego in AUS. I diligently sold my original cam for a few dollars a year of more back.. now need to buy a replacement.. will get there in the end.. is just a question of how long that will be ..

  27. #67
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    Long time between updates... sorry to anyone that may have been remotely interested.. !

    It's been what the American Pickers would call 'smalls' for several months now, a bracket, fitting, wire, rivet, trim etc. The engine bay is nearly done, with the exception of a heat shield for the steering column and the washer bottle for the windscreen. Dash, about 70% there.. has been fabricated and fitted and removed for the moment awaiting the final covering. Pedal box is good, wiring is done up to the point of connection for the head and tail lights and have roughed up some inner guards for the rear wheels as well as fitted the splash guards for the fronts.

    Biggest news has been the decision to 'move forward in a different direction' as opposed to going backwards, again.. !!

    The those that followed Tom Maudlin's Coupe post, Ive taken his lead and dropped the floor on both sides. Pics included of the floor paneling cut away.. sigh !! and the main rail nicked ready for cutting. Will be replacing the 4" main rail with 6" x 2" RHS in 5mm wall (a bit less than 1/4"). The stress calcs show its around 10% weaker than the original rail, but significantly stronger that scalloping the rail and adding a cover piece. Will also be adding a section for the side rail to the chassis upright at the rear of the passenger cell and a couple of uprights for side impact and torsional rigidity.

    More pics to follow in a few weeks after the fab and welding is completed.

    Cheers

    Chris
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    Last edited by Sydney Chris; 02-15-2016 at 04:31 AM.

  28. #68
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    Floor mods well progressed now. Have essentially build or connected a space frame style structure around the now removed chassis rails in the cabin area.

    Anecdotally the structure is significantly stronger than the original design, as I was lifting the car off the jacks at the end of the weekend there was no discernible deflection across the chassis when lifted from any corner.

    Look forward to any thoughts or feedback.

    Chris
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  29. #69
    Trick Tool Maker, Super Moderator Hankl's Avatar
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    Really? Metric? HaHa! Good Work!

    Hank
    “If you didn’t have enough time to do it right the first time. How come you always have time to go back and do it again?” FFR1000186CP

    Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
    Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.

  30. #70
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    steering wheel on the wrong side as well Hank.. just thought I'd be consistent.. lol

    PS.. still looking for a suitable straight jacket to assist with the build process.. !

  31. #71

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    Looks great, and is consistent with our tradition of modifying virtually everything!

  32. #72
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    Cheers Jacob.. the only question is how many times to modify before we get drive it..

  33. #73
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    Brakes have been a charm since day 1 with this build.. the rather pricey Willwoods needed to be stripped down after finding swarf in the piston chamber of one, the hoses remade to meet the AU standards as well as the caliper bodies retapped to take a UNC thread (7/16 - 20).

    After the BA Falcon booster (10" dia) and MC, which were matched to the BA ABS controller could not be fitted under the bonnet I went to a 7" diaphragm hot rod style booster and MC set up, only to find, in short, the thing was @#(*&@(#*&@(* !!@! useless.

    Third times a charm... XA Falcon booster, 8" dia which fits, with a few mm clearance, modified to OE spec to be double diaphragm / 1400psi output, mated via a 3D printed adapter plate (draft version shown in yellow) to an XC Cobra master cylinder with a 1" bore, (which was ironically the car I was initially looking to build). Res. capacity exceeds the piston fluid capacity across their full travel, is ADR complaint, sits around 25mm lower than the BA equivalent and is a dual port configuration, matching the input ports on the ABS controller.

    Getting a longer booster pushrod made up in the next day or two (as I didnt have any hardened steel dowel) to compensate for the adapter plate and we will see how it goes.

    A shout out to Tim and the team at Warringah Brake and Clutch for their patience, advice and perseverance. You could do a lot worse than give them a yell if you are in Sydney or need parts shipped...

    Cheers

    Chris
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