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Thread: Sponaugle's H6 EZ30R 818S

  1. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by sponaugle View Post
    Is anyone using anything other then just distilled water?
    It gets cold here, I'm running the same coolant I use in the engine radiator.

  2. #442
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    I'll probably use distilled water only. I doubt I'll drive it in sub-freezing temps.

  3. #443
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I'll probably use distilled water only. I doubt I'll drive it in sub-freezing temps.
    Same for me, but what is important is not what you drive in, but what you store it in. Frozen water in the intercooler would probably crack it inside, which would not be good.

    I think I will add a bottle of water wetter and about 20% coolant which should help the freezing a bit. ( As I understand WaterWetter does not change the freezing point ).

    Temps here in Portland don't get very cold, so I only need to protect to about 20 degrees F.
    Last edited by sponaugle; 05-21-2015 at 07:01 PM.

  4. #444
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    You may want to add Water Wetter to lube the pump seals. It will help.
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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  5. #445
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sponaugle View Post
    Good. That makes sense.

    Here is a picture of the different rear adjustments:



    In my mind, here is the order I have done things:

    I set the Red length the same on both sides, about mid way across the adjust range.
    I set the yellow length to the same length on each bar.
    I adjusted the blue length to get the yellow bars parallel
    I adjusted the green bar to get a good camber starting point ( 1.75 - 2 degrees )
    I went back and adjusted the blue bar to get the yellow level again (if you moved the green a lot).
    I adjusted the rear yellow to get the toe I want.
    Check the camber again
    Check the level of the yellow again.

    It might be needed to repeat the blue/yellow/green adjustment as changing one can make a small tweak to the other.

    I think it is important to keep the relative lengths as close possible side to side, so after one side it done, I'll do the other side starting with the lengths from the first side.

    I have not yet needed to adjust the red, as the blue has enough range to get the trailing arms level. If you did adjust the red and blue together you could move the entire axle center line a bit. I suppose you could adjust these to make sure the yellow bars are exactly perpendicular to the hub.

    Since I am using axles that are slightly longer then the FFR ones, I did adjust the yellow and green links to be farther out the extension range (to push the entire hub out a bit). As it sits now fully adjusted, the only problem is the green link. It is a 6" tube, so I bought a 7" replacement tube (on Amazon cheap). That will give me a little more thread engagement when adjusted correctly. I did also purchase 1" longer rods for the yellow and blue, but don't need them as of yet.



    Absolutely. We should arrange to have Tim tune it. He and I will be working on my car as well. I'll mention your car to him this weekend.

    Jeff
    This picture was very helpful today as I set my alignment and tightened down all the rear suspension bolts.

    Thanks for sharing info along in your thread.

  6. #446
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    I run the same coolant in my W2A as the rad (different car). Just makes it easy.

    What IC pump are you using? I've had issues with the plastic pumps straight off the HE, so normally plumb them in after the radiator. I've been looking at upgrading my system with the new Davies 130 but want to get more test data first.

    Really interested in what you're doing with instruments, could go in a few of my cars!

  7. #447
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    I have started on the body work. I put a few of the parts on for a quick fit to see how much work I have to do in the wheel wells:



    Yea, I think I am going to need some flares.



    The tires and wheel stick out about 2 inches on each side.



    I think it will look good with some flare on the rear end.

    I’m not sure what I am going to do… I am secretly hoping Kirk818 is going to come up with a solution that I can buy from him!!

    On a car related front, I got delivery of a *new to me* *old to someone* else car yesterday:

    I decided to pick up a little brother for my R35 GT-R. Like pretty much all of the Playstation generation, there were are few cars I have always wanted from those first games.
    One was a Rally Subaru, which I already have, and another is an R32 GT-R, which I now have!



    Since the 1990 R32 GT-Rs are falling under the 25 year import rule, I figured now is the time. As most of you probably already know the Japanese car market is an odd place. There is a relatively high turnover rate for cars that are 5+ years old which makes a very good auction environment. There is a relatively consistent rating system for cars at auction, and while not perfect it does give a general sense of the overall condition. The biggest downside for those of us in the US is that Australia, New Zealand, and Canada have less restrictive import time limits so many great condition cars have already moved out of Japan.

    For the US import, the age is based on the month of production, so every month more cars become eligible for import. In 1989 Nissan made 4555 R32 GT-Rs, and in 1990 7476 R32 GT-Rs. That is a lot more than the number of R35s imported and sold in the US each year. I was looking for a 1990 with as few miles as I could find. Most on the auction block seem to have 100,000 - 140,000 km ( 62k-86k miles). I was fortunate to find one with about 70k km ( 43k miles). Given the car is 25 years old that is not a lot of mileage.

    Many of the cars will be listed as 'lightly modified', which appears to have a different meaning! It seems like pretty much every one out there is in some way modified, and I would be shocked to see a car that really is completely stock.

    The modifications listed by the auction house for my particular car include:

    Tomei Poncams Camshafts
    Tomei Head Gasket
    Tomei Turbo Outlet Pipes
    Factory R34 Turbos
    HKS Air Cleaners
    Tomei Cam Pulleys
    Upgraded Radiator
    R34 Injectors
    Mine's VX-Rom (speed limiter and better mapping)
    R34 Brembo Front and Rear Brakes
    Nismo Sports Clutch
    RS*R Exhaust
    Nardi Steering Wheel
    Recaro Semi-Bucket Seat
    R34 N1 Engine Block with N1 oil pump.

    The camshafts and R34 turbos are a pretty common thing to see, and the R34 brakes (Brembo brakes very similar to the Subaru STI brakes) are a nice addition. The Mines VX-Rom ECU and R34 injectors are something I'll replace either way so no real gain. The most surprising modification is the N1 block. The R32s are known for having a weakness in the factory oil pump. The collar around the crankshaft for the pump is very small and prone to failing. The N1 block and oil pump have a much larger collar and surface area for the pump. This is a great upgrade to already have done, as it is something that I would have wanted to do asap.

    I used a company called GTR-Garage to purchase the car in Japan, and ship it to me here in the states (Oregon). They took care of the purchase, transportation to a shipping port, cross sea transport, customs taxes, duties ,fees, paperwork, inspections, etc, and delivered the car directly to me. My cost was $23k to my door. A car like this at auction would be somewhere between $15k and $19k in Japan, plus an auction fee. Shipping and insurance vary, but for a drive on-drive off I would expect $1000-$1200, and if you did a container something in the $3k-5k range. Higher mileage less modified R32s might be 10-15k at auction.

    My car arrived on Thursday, and I took it out for a spin. Power is pretty good for a car of that era. I would guess 300whp or so, but with a much better power band than an equivalent STI. You can tell the car is lighter than the R35s (by about 700 lbs) , and the overall handling feel was surprisingly good. It felt better than my reasonable well sorted 08 STI. Of course driving and shifting RHD is a different experience, especially on US roads.

    Here are a few more pictures:







    I'm not planning on doing anything super crazy with the car.... I'll replace the ECU with a Vipec, the Turbos with some GT28s, ID1300s, E85, perhaps some forged pistons and rods, although the stock pistons and rods are already forged and very strong. I'd like to get a good 600whp out of it.

    If you are looking for something fun to play with, you should pick one up.

    Jeff

  8. #448
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Sweeeeeeet GTR man!!! Wow epic
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  9. #449

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    Nice to see you back.

    On the topic of wheel flares, i plan to tackle that this winter. For now, i have almost 1000miles on my car with this short term solution.





    It was enough to pass state inspection and for now im enjoying just getting used to it and seeing what adjustments need to be done. The ride height is set to the max height for front and rear. The fronts with the 255's only rubs on pothole or steep driveway approaches.

    Flares will take care of all the issues and lower it back down

  10. #450
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    You know I might need those (Winter Flares), if I don't blow up the car first
    Thanks- Chad
    818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
    2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
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  11. #451
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Nice to see you back.

    On the topic of wheel flares, i plan to tackle that this winter. For now, i have almost 1000miles on my car with this short term solution.
    It was enough to pass state inspection and for now im enjoying just getting used to it and seeing what adjustments need to be done. The ride height is set to the max height for front and rear. The fronts with the 255's only rubs on pothole or steep driveway approaches.

    Flares will take care of all the issues and lower it back down
    Ah yes.. that is a great short term solution. What flares are those?

  12. #452

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    Quote Originally Posted by sponaugle View Post
    Ah yes.. that is a great short term solution. What flares are those?
    I got them from JEGS. They are a rubber flare designed for 4x4 setups. I glued them on with neoprene adhesive then used some black silicone to fill the gaps. Ill see if i can fin the part number.

  13. #453
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Nice GTR, very compact engine bay! Maybe a good engine in the 818. But that's not to do here.
    Nice flare idea too!

    Are you the one with 295s?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
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  14. #454

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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Nice GTR, very compact engine bay! Maybe a good engine in the 818. But that's not to do here.
    Nice flare idea too!

    Are you the one with 295s?
    Yes, i have 295's in the rear as well as 255's in front.

    Jeff is running the same if im not mistaken.

  15. #455
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurk818 View Post
    Yes, i have 295's in the rear as well as 255's in front.

    Jeff is running the same if im not mistaken.
    Yep.. Same for me. I'm running R888s in that size. I think we are both using the Front STI axles, which pushes things out just a bit.

  16. #456
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Nice GTR, very compact engine bay! Maybe a good engine in the 818. But that's not to do here.
    Oh yea... I thought about that! The RB26DETT is a great engine, although since the front gear diff is in the oil pan, there would be a lot of work to get everything lined up. Besides what else am I going to do with all of these EZ30Rs!
    Jeff

  17. #457
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sponaugle View Post
    Besides what else am I going to do with all of these EZ30Rs!
    Build some 818s and sell them off at a good price!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  18. #458
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    Great purchase.. do you have to bring it to DEQ?

    I think there used to be an exemption if you weren't in Portland. i.e. buy a house in Bend and register your car there.
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 07-02-2015 at 02:28 PM.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  19. #459
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by longislandwrx View Post
    Great purchase.. do you have to bring it to DEQ?
    I think there used to be an exemption if you weren't in Portland. i.e. buy a house in Bend and register your car there.
    I will have to run it through DEQ here in Portland, however since it is a 1990 model year it is just the simple sniffer test, which it will pass without any problems. Indeed if I had it registered in Bend, it would not need any DEQ testing at all.

  20. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by sponaugle View Post
    I will have to run it through DEQ here in Portland, however since it is a 1990 model year it is just the simple sniffer test, which it will pass without any problems. Indeed if I had it registered in Bend, it would not need any DEQ testing at all.
    I'll be happy to make room for it in my garage!
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  21. #461
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    Wow Just found this thread. Everything is looking great! I'm very interested to see how you do the flares (I may copy
    Nolan
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  22. #462
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    Sponaugle, any update on your car? I would really love to hear (and see) how the 818 runs with some serious hp behind it. Cheers.

  23. #463
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    Congrats. I have an R33 GTR (grandfathered in from the Motorex days). I put down 492HP to the wheels on pump gas at 19PSI on a 110 degree day. AEM, Tomei Cams, NISMO Intake & intercooler & R400 body kit, 750cc injectors, HKS fuel rail & BOVs, Garrett 2860R turbos. With the price of the R32s staying in the mid 20s it has been very tempting to pick one up.
    1995 Nissan Skyline GTR VSpec
    818S in progress.

  24. #464
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    Jeff, have you started back to work on the 818 yet? By the way, there is an outlaw 1/8th mile track (Riverdale Raceway) about 70 miles N of Portland. Only need a helmet and sign a waiver. Just an FYI in case you don't want to deal with passing PIR tech.
    Last edited by Plebeian; 02-21-2016 at 03:34 PM.

  25. #465
    Research Calibrator sponaugle's Avatar
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    Sorry for the delay getting an update.... It is still awaiting installation of the body. I have been working on some electronics for it however.

    see http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...303#post229303

    Jeff

  26. #466
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    At the risk of being a pest, any update on your car? This thread has been in suspended animation for a year now.

  27. #467
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    I just found out the electronics to run my engines with Motec is going to cost OVER $10,000. Anybody want to buy a cool project or two EZ30 engines?

  28. #468
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    Bump, Jeff are you still in the 818 game?
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  29. #469
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    Bump, Jeff are you still in the 818 game?
    I sure hope so, this build had so much promise
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  30. #470
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    I know he still has the car but I think he's just been busy with other projects.

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