818R Baer Bumpsteer Install/Guide

[C.Plavan]

BAER 818R Spacer Install

This is what I did. Seemed to work well so feel free to use this as a guide.

Things you will need:
5/8" drill bit
A step drill bit that has a 5/8" step in it
2- Grade 8, 5/8" hex bolt (5" works the best for me)
2- Grade 8 Lock nuts (and washers if you want to be extra safe)
1- 1/2 pipe long enough to cut to make (2) 2 7/16th spacers. I grabbed a single 1/2 x 7" galvanized pipe from the plumbing section. Take your 5" bolts and test fit them inside. Mine fit perfectly.
Sawzall
Flat metal file
Black Paint

Step 1-

Cut pipe (I used a Sawzall). I cut the threaded ends off one side, then measured 2-7/16" and marked it. Cut it trying to keep it straight. I cleaned it up with a metal file. Repeat for 2nd spacer.

Step 2-

Measure everything again, and file flat if there are any high points. If you have to file away a little more below 2-7/16th, its OK because you can always use the included shims that came with the Baer kit to bring it back to 2- 7/16th (notice one spacer has a shim) ***also note those are 4.5" bolts- the 5" bolts are required for the hardware I used.


Step 3-

Paint the spacers if you like and let them dry while you start working on the spindles. (See Above...ooooohhhhh Aaaahhhhhhh)

Step 4-

Grab the Step drill bit and mark with a Sharpie the 5/8" step. The step drill is important. It makes it so you can center the 5/8" drill bit later. Drill down with the step drill ONLY TO THE 5/8" step (Sharpie Mark)




Step 5-

Grab the 5/8" drill bit and drill down trying to maintain correct alignment- If the drill bit is grabbing alot, re-position straight in relation to the hole.



Step 6-

Install away and tighten everything up.



Step 7-

Grab a beverage and relax knowing you will not have crazy bumpsteer racing around the track.

[Rasmus]

I love you.

[Doowop]

Thanks!!

[Bill Waters]

Doowop - unlike many bumpsteer kits I've seen, the Baer one comes with tapered tie rod ends to fit in the OEM spindle taper. I have one which is still in the package, but will be installing soon.

Why did you elect to drill out the taper? Was the provided taper/bolt shim assembly not long enough to provide the 2 7/16" necessary to achieve the known/desired no-bumpsteer dimension?

[C.Plavan]

Doowop - unlike many bumpsteer kits I've seen, the Baer one comes with tapered tie rod ends to fit in the OEM spindle taper. I have one which is still in the package, but will be installing soon.

Why did you elect to drill out the taper? Was the provided taper/bolt shim assembly not long enough to provide the 2 7/16" necessary to achieve the known/desired no-bumpsteer dimension?

Hey Bill. You are exactly right. The Baer kit out of he box is not long enough for the 2 7/16" spacer.

You guys are welcome. Its pretty easy to do. Just take your time.

[Brando]

I love you.

You took the words out of my mouth... Thank you so much for this post!

[Rasmus]

Rather than go with the Baer I made my own bump-steer correction kit.



After days of thought on the imperial vs metric debate, I decided to go with imperial size rod ends. Two reasons. 1. The majority of the suspension in the rear will run imperial rod ends and bolts. 2. Price. M16 rod ends run about $65 and 5/8" rod ends run $20 for similar ratings. Next you get in the price of Metric Grade 10.9 hardware vs Imperial Grade 8. Anyway, I cut the end off some old OEM steering rod ends. Drilled and tapped them for 5/8"-18.



Notice the spacers. FFR's recommendation to correct the bump-steer is to space the rod end's 2 7/16" down from the steering arm. Or 2 13/16" from bottom of steering arm to center of pivot point. I, intentionally, included a 0.128" washer and cut my main spacer short. Just in case I need to adjust something in the future by running thinner washer, no washer, or more washer.



Drilling out the steering arms to accept 5/8" bolts. Ridiculousness.



The full set of hardware that went into it all. I found some nice rod end boots from Jegs. The stainless steel washers in the boots are 0.047" thick. So my full spacer kit is ---> 0.128" washer ---> 2.263" big spacer with bevel for range of motion ---> 0.047" stainless steel washer with boot.



Installed.



Other side.

[longislandwrx]

Radmiral! Hope you didn't accidently slug back some anti-seize reaching for your Barqs... bite indeed.

[Racebrewer]

Would re-positioning the rack upwards work as well?

[Rasmus]

Would re-positioning the rack upwards work as well?

It would, but according to Jim Schenck and Wayne Presley it's better to run a bump steer kit:

Adding a bumpsteer kit gives you an adjustable angle plane, you can set it to wherever you want it. Moving the rack would move it away from the height plane of the lower control arm, but if you are saying the two should always be on the same angle plane I disagree. The lower arm and tie rod should only be parallel if they were the exact same height, angle, and the same length when viewed from the front. Usually the best solution does not have the tie rod and lower arm at the same angle because as the tie rod gets closer to the upper arm it is more affected by that movement as well.

In this case moving the tie rod down gets it closer to the height of the longer arm, and since it is a fixed length (determined by your toe setting and the width of the rack) getting it closer to the longer of the two control arms is helpful. If you really wanted to move the rack you could, but it isn't better.

[C.Plavan]

Just adding an FYI- If you are worried about the length of the spacer and strength of the arm of the knuckle, there is an easy fix. Just weld a support bracket to the spacer and bolt it to the knuckle where the existing bolt hole is. A triangle brace would probably be best if you are that worried.

[nkw8181]

Maybe a stupid question but is this just for people running the R ride height?

[C.Plavan]

Maybe a stupid question but is this just for people running the R ride height?

Yep- R height only.

[FFRSpec72]

Seems this would be a better bump-steer solution as no drilling required, bolts up to existing tie rods and spindles http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...s-brz-wrx.html

[C.Plavan]

Seems this would be a better bump-steer solution as no drilling required, bolts up to existing tie rods and spindles http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...s-brz-wrx.html

Better??? You must of missed the issues of the original problem. The kit you posted, and the Baer essentially have the same issue. They both bolt on fine. The issue is the kit provided tapered bolt and spacers are not long enough to deal with the bump steer at the R ride height. That's why you have to drill out the spindle taper (for a longer bolt- unless you find a much longer tapered bolt- that matches the WRX taper exactly). Then you have to cut custom spacers because the provided ones are not long enough.

Just re-read the guide.

[FFRSpec72]

Better??? You must of missed the issues of the original problem. The kit you posted, and the Baer essentially have the same issue. They both bolt on fine. The issue is the kit provided tapered bolt and spacers are not long enough to deal with the bump steer at the R ride height. That's why you have to drill out the spindle taper (for a longer bolt- unless you find a much longer tapered bolt- that matches the WRX taper exactly). Then you have to cut custom spacers because the provided ones are not long enough.

Just re-read the guide.

Yes I read, the part I referenced actually removes the bump steer on at least 2 cars, mine (02' rack) and the center drive (custom rack). I would have to see the 2 kits side by side to see what the difference would be if any.

[Pearldrummer7]

In Rasmus' DIY post, he used a 5/8" rod end. Why so large? I get why Chad used that size (Baer kit's size, of course) but if you're drilling both the hub and the tie rod end out, why not use a smaller and more manageable size? Like say, 1/2"-13?

[Mitch Wright]

It is not an area that you want a weak link.

[RetroRacing]

Yes, the 5/8 is overkill, but it's easier since you have to drill that size hole into the arm anyway. You could use some reduction bushings in the arm, but you really don't save much by doing so.

[Pearldrummer7]

Yes, the 5/8 is overkill, but it's easier since you have to drill that size hole into the arm anyway. You could use some reduction bushings in the arm, but you really don't save much by doing so.

Why do I need to drill that size hole anyway? I could drill out the hub to 1/2", drill and tap the tie rod end to 1/2"-13, and run a 1/2"x 5" long bolt through a 1/2" rod end.

This is just me trying to justify not buying a 5/8" tap