Help- Headers that will actually fit a 2006 2.5L motor

[C.Plavan]

As you recall I purchased the Killer B headers..... No mater what people say (Even Killer B states- "Fits ALL WRX's), they will not fit a 2006 motor because of the oil filter/cooler without big modifications.

I'm to the point I need a good header that will clear this oil cooler/filter. Has anyone found or know of a header that will work without modifications? I prefer EL, but at this point, UEL is not out of the cards. Fuel Cell is on the way, and Harness will be done very soon. I want to start this baby up. Any help/knowledge would be great.

[JeromeS13]

Why not switch to the other style oil cooler or remove it altogether (if you're going to run an external one)? Then you can run any header that you want.

[freds]

I bought a Borla UL and it fitted my 06 fine. I like it.
As mentioned in the "tips" thread....check all flanges in the exhaust system for flatness, and file them flat if necessary...to avoid leaks. The FFR flanges on their angled adapter and one of the Borla flanges of mine required "dressing".

fred

[Scargo]

What are you doing for oil cooling? I believe this is a solution. Remove the oil heater and pipe and install short oil feeder tube for cars without a heater. Oil filter "union", Subaru PN 15018AA050. Then install a bypass block like the Canton Remote Oil Filter mount (#22-625 takes Ford style, 3/4-16" thread) as shown that I have been using. Then I have my cooler, filter and thermostatic bypass valve located remotely.


Also, what you see are my Full Race headers that I am modifying. Those could be an option for you though I say that with trepidation since, for me and two racing friends, we have had issues with getting them to not blow out gaskets. In the picture, I am in the process of adding bellows to the exhaust to accommodate expansion. We have found that ARP high strength stainless bolts are also required on the up-pipe, per FR's recommendation. They are beautifully made, hell-for-stout and heavy pipes. FR uses Schedule 10 and Sch. 40 316 SS pipe. I believe KB's are only 16 gauge 304 tubing. We had an issue with one STI running a not so old KB, where we blew out about a quarter-sized chunk of tubing at the collector. KB is replacing it for a nominal amount.
Invidia seems to be a popular brand among some people making big power.

[C.Plavan]

Great ideas guys, thanks.

[gwarden]

Chad what did you do with the killer b headers you had?
I have ordered some but they are on back order for two months now

[C.Plavan]

I returned them. My honest opinion..... they are not worth it even if it did fit.

[metalmaker12]

Full race headers are very nice and well made and clear the filter. There like $1,200 but worth it.
image.jpg

[Scargo]

I returned them. My honest opinion..... they are not worth it even if it did fit.

Can you elaborate? My buddy is picking up his replacement KB headers at the Wicked Big Meet (here in CT) this weekend. I believe they have made some design improvements, but I have no details yet.

[gwarden]

Full race headers are very nice and well made and clear the filter. There like $1,200 but worth it.
image.jpg

What about the oil pan?

[metalmaker12]

Check out there site, but yea fits over the oem pan. http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...-manifold.html

[Scargo]

Check out there site, but yea fits over the oem pan. http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...-manifold.html

Wow. I kinda feel like Geoff (of Full Race) has sold out. "Fits OEM oil pan only." That is a bad idea unless you just like having a header with the "Full Race" name and the power it might give you. Nevermind longevity of the motor.
I am saying that from my experience, and everything I know and have read; trying to be racey with a stock pan and stock oiling system will get you a blown motor. Perhaps just a spun bearing, broken ring-lands or, like my friend who just had his STi towed back from Watkins Glen, a piece of junk with a big view-port in the top of the case and an oil pan full of rods, pistons and case metal. His is a "stock" '08 STi with a few bolt-on Cobb pieces, a Cobb tune and a Crawford A/OS. He was very fast at WGI for a while. Much like my '08 till it broke it's ring lands.
There are some things that I think are inherently bad about the design of many/most aftermarket headers, especially if they are equal length. They don't have the heat shielding of the factory exhaust and they get closer to the oil pan. Ceramic coating and/or wrapping is a must. The oil filter and possibly an oil heater under it is in that nest of tubing, too. It is not a nice environment for the oil reservoir. Oil lines coming and going from that area have trouble coexisting in the heat.

To me this new FR exhaust is like giving someone a license to make more horsepower without any concern about how it will be used.
I will try and get down off my soapbox, but in closing I want to say that if you plan on autocrossing your 818, or occasionally taking it to the track, you should do better than the stock oil pan and have in place a method of dealing with oil surge, oil blowby and oil overheating. If you continually generate high G's then you will be slinging the oil out of the pan and will likely, eventually have a problem that is oil related.

[metalmaker12]

It is true I agree, if your going to get serious to the point you need more than the Sti pan, KB oil pickup and tray than a dry sump system/ oil cooler is what you need. Full race makes a great quality piece to fit over a stock pan to sell to the mass public to make the most profit. I was just telling him that there available. They can make you a custom set of headers also. But most guys that get into the racing of these beast will have a dry sump/ cooler or similar set up if they plan on lasting very long. Look at my engine, I am still not sure of the exact issue( about to remove it and tear it down) but I pushed it hard and it has a failure. Hopefully just a head-gasket, but I can't be that lucky. My 06 had a dry sump kit, and I sold it with the car( big mistake) cause if I poped a motor due to oiling issues during one autocross than I am going to kick myself in the head.

The cosworth dry sump is top notch but 3,500
image.jpg

[C.Plavan]

I have the Killer B- oil pan and internal goodies so I guess this race header is out.

Scargo- I was just not impressed with the fitment either. Even after I removed the oil filter, I had to use a pry bar to get it over the studs to bolt it up. If they knocked the price down to $900, then it would be OK. Its just way too expensive for what you get.

[metalmaker12]

I have the Killer B- oil pan and internal goodies so I guess this race header is out.

Scargo- I was just not impressed with the fitment either. Even after I removed the oil filter, I had to use a pry bar to get it over the studs to bolt it up. If they knocked the price down to $900, then it would be OK. Its just way too expensive for what you get.

I agree on the KB headers, full race might be able to help you out, ask on the fitment with your pan. I just have not done it or seen it. Also cusco headers are pretty good, but I have no idea if they fit with your pan.

[Mechie3]

I have prosport headers/uppipe combo. Got them from a local guy for $250 or so. Figured it was worth the gamble. They fit well. No idea about longevity, but they are SS.

[Scargo]

There are Ebay rip-offs of major players offering headers for a Subaru that come from Russia, China and elsewhere. Many "stainless" headers are 304 or worse, low-grade SS and will not hold up well like 321 or 316 will.

This AM, my buddy said that the new Killer B header he got on Sunday looks great and looks like a big improvement over the one he had. He has Full Race on one race STi and KB on the other race STi.
I want to correct a mistake I made when I misspoke and said Killer B was made of 304 SS. It is made of 321, but I do believe it is only 16 gauge. It would be very special tubing if it is thicker. Having said that, I am using it (.065 wall 321) for my up-pipe work.
Full Race headers are heavy. Easily heavier than the stock exhaust system. Once, I compared their weight. I don't remember the exact numbers. KB says theirs are lighter than stock.

[Mitch Wright]

I am running a V37 twin scroll Turbo the only 3 options I can find is the Tomie Header, JDM cast-iron or build my own. Anybody know of other options?

[Scargo]

I am running a V37 twin scroll Turbo the only 3 options I can find is the Tomie Header, JDM cast-iron or build my own. Anybody know of other options?

Full Race!
I think you mean Tomei. They are 304 SS and though they are .095" (2.5mm) wall I would not want to use them for racing.

[JeromeS13]

I am running a V37 twin scroll Turbo the only 3 options I can find is the Tomie Header, JDM cast-iron or build my own. Anybody know of other options?

What's wrong with the oem unit? It's what I'm running and it's working fine.

[Scargo]

What's wrong with the oem unit? It's what I'm running and it's working fine.

Jerome, if you were old enough you would know that the mantra used to be to first ditch the stock exhaust for the most cost effective and immediate horsepower gain. Nothing like some Hooker headers on a small-block Chevy. The differences in forced induction and normally aspirated has been one of the hardest lessons I've recently had to learn... For an old dog, not easy.
It is amazing how well a AVCS or DAVCS motor can provide big torque and HP in virtually stock trim. The main thing that I am struck by is gains from an unrestricted exhaust after the turbo.

[Ironhydroxide]

As you recall I purchased the Killer B headers..... No mater what people say (Even Killer B states- "Fits ALL WRX's), they will not fit a 2006 motor because of the oil filter/cooler without big modifications.

I'm to the point I need a good header that will clear this oil cooler/filter. Has anyone found or know of a header that will work without modifications? I prefer EL, but at this point, UEL is not out of the cards. Fuel Cell is on the way, and Harness will be done very soon. I want to start this baby up. Any help/knowledge would be great.

well... try this most the way down the page, perrin says how they make the header fit the 06-07 engines


http://blog.perrinperformance.com/perrin-sti-header-evolution/

[C.Plavan]

well... try this most the way down the page, perrin says how they make the header fit the 06-07 engines


http://blog.perrinperformance.com/perrin-sti-header-evolution/

I saw that. I was trying to keep from doing those mods. Plus, I "think" the Perrin will sit way too low under the frame rail. When the 818R is running at 3.5" off the ground, every inch counts

[metalmaker12]

What's wrong with the oem unit? It's what I'm running and it's working fine.

Agreed,I am running oem jdm twin scroll vf37 and the headers are actually stainless and pretty good. They were tarnished so I coated them and will be wrapping them too. This was a awhile back obviously.

[AZPete]

Chad, does this help? My Perrin EL header is only about 3/8" below the frame. OE engine mounts. I made the oil cooler changes as per the Perrin doc.

[Mitch Wright]

With a bit of searching I have found a JDM twin scroll exhaust manifold, thanks for the advice.

[C.Plavan]

Chad, does this help? My Perrin EL header is only about 3/8" below the frame. OE engine mounts. I made the oil cooler changes as per the Perrin doc.

Thanks- That helps. I plan on running an external oil cooler, so I will get the factory one out of the way. I think the Killer B oil pan hangs down that much also. I was thinking I may need to make a skid plate for my racing curb hopping.

[Scargo]

Today I was very disappointed that I could not fit a Full Race header to my motor with a Killer B pan. It was hard against the pan and I still had at least an eighth of an inch left before the headers were tight to the head.
I had a Moroso pan on it previously and I thought the KB pan would be an upgrade. I am considering modifying the FR headers. I only have to move the one section of pipe up. It is very do-able. Why FR would not do this to begin with is puzzling, given the popularity of the KB pan. KB says the Moroso pan will work with their headers and they sold me one with my first set of headers. I wanted the KB pan because of the increased capacity and what I perceived was better baffling.
Now, looking on KB's website, it says that its pan will fit with "older" Full Race headers. They don't define what older means.
Also found this from October, 2012:

Fits ALL Headers (we cannot guarantee Full-Race fitment as we have in the past, due to their manufacturing variations)

Bummed.

Update: There was easily 1/2" to 5/8" inch available to move the interfering pipe up and still get wrap on both pipes.
I cut 2/3 of the way through the pipe in two places (one under the mounting flange which is not shown), added a crescent-shaped filler piece and welded it up. Worked for me.
Attachment 34645Attachment 34646

[Turn In Concepts]

We have done many different header combos and some of the best we have found for power, torque, fitment and reliability have been Killer B, Agency Power and Tomei. All equal length and don't even consider unequal length if you are going to swap headers.

If you are running a twin scroll VF37 un the stock headers. They are pretty amazing.

If you guys need help let me know.

Tony

[ssssly]

I am running a V37 twin scroll Turbo the only 3 options I can find is the Tomie Header, JDM cast-iron or build my own. Anybody know of other options?

OEM twinscroll headers are SS tube and flange.

For twin scroll, I have run OEM, Tomei, Kakumei, SARD and Greddy. You get next to nothing more for the $3k you will spend. Although I do wish I still had the SARDs. No better performance, but SARD stuff has always had the best welds. They were really pretty.

Equal length single scroll, Killer B got me the best results. Full Race and Greddy also worked well, just not quite as well. Never had fitment problems with any of them. But my spec C had the stock front mount oil cooler. So much lower profile than the USDM oil cooler.

Either way, I would suggest going to a relocated oil bypass. Will free up the space you need, increase volume and filtration. Makes changing the oil way easier as well.

[Scargo]

SARDS doesn't seem to have a US presence.
I am confused about the "oil bypass" comment and a USDM oil cooler. I know that on some WRX and STis they use a "oil heat exchanger" or "oil to water" heat exchanger. Commonly, and mistakenly, called a "cooler".

As I've posted here before about my solution, (for my STi) I ditched the exchanger. I use a Canton 90 degree, rotating, remote oil filter adapter (22-597), Canton Remote Oil Filter mount (#22-625 takes Ford style, 3/4-16" thread, filters (I use K&N HP 3001 filters), Mocal OT2, 176°F thermostat bypass valve, Setrab 12x12x2 oil cooler and two quart Accusump. I use -10 AN size hose/fittings.

DSC01457 (2).JPG
This shows my Full Race headers and the Canton adapter. I have one inch of clearance between the output fitting and the header wrap. I have 1-1/2" clearance between the incoming oil fitting and the header wrap. In a perfect world you might want to shave a small amount off the timing cover to not rub against the oil output AN fitting's nut.

[ssssly]

Unfortunately SARD hasn't had a real US presence for quite some time. There just isn't much of a market for $4.5k headers in the US.

Amsoil has a fairly good explanation of oil bypass filtration systems on their website. here

In this application it would be installed with both filters relocated.

The style relocation adapter that you have will certainly work for the vast majority of of applications. If someone still needed additional room there is another style that has both of the fittings pointed down. They screw in a bit flatter than the style you have.

969-1022_2.jpg

Would depend on the header and what all fittings were used.

And that's a pretty large Setrab oil to air "heat exchanger" that you commonly and mistakenly called an "oil cooler". A good replacement for the stock oil to water to air "heat exchanger" though.

And for anyone who is an oil geek, if you haven't seen these filter tests, it is worth a read. Here

[Scargo]

The style relocation adapter that you have will certainly work for the vast majority of of applications. If someone still needed additional room there is another style that has both of the fittings pointed down. They screw in a bit flatter than the style you have.

969-1022_2.jpg

Would depend on the header and what all fittings were used.

And that's a pretty large Setrab oil to air "heat exchanger" that you commonly and mistakenly called an "oil cooler". A good replacement for the stock oil to water to air "heat exchanger" though.

OK, I admit I'm anal about the naming of that POS on the engine, but it does no cooling.
I think there could be a more elegant solution to the bypassing of the stock filter than what I've done but I haven't tried it yet.
I have this piece41t7Vx-JY-L.jpgwhich is called a "block-off plate", which gets the oil back in and leaves you with only one line passing through the "Hell-hole" area. But where to get the oil out? I don't know of a good place to do this that's an improvement over what I've done or the bypass plate you have shown. A different header design (like KB's Holy Header) might make it practical to mod the oil pump and do an exit or a return on the bottom of the pump (where it has plugs).
I'd rather not have anything down there. I've had one track buddy whose oil line split open and caused an engine fire because of the heat from the headers. Not to mention his loss of control of the car...

Thanks for the link to the oil filter testing. I may switch to Royal Purple filter (to match the color of my oil) from the K&N filter, which fared well in the test.

[JeromeS13]

OK, I admit I'm anal about the naming of that POS on the engine, but it does no cooling.
I think there could be a more elegant solution to the bypassing of the stock filter than what I've done but I haven't tried it yet.
I have this piece41t7Vx-JY-L.jpgwhich is called a "block-off plate", which gets the oil out and leaves you with only one line passing through the "Hell-hole" area. But where to return it? I don't know of a good place to do this that's an improvement over what I've done or the bypass plate you have shown. A different header design (like KB's Holy Header) might make it practical to mod the oil pump and do a return on the bottom of the pump (where it has plugs).
I'd rather not have anything down there. I've had one track buddy whose oil line split open and caused an engine fire because of the heat from the headers. Not to mention his loss of control of the car...

Thanks for the link to the oil filter testing. I may switch to Royal Purple filter (to match the color of my oil) from the K&N filter, which fared well in the test.

Doesn't the OEM oil pump have an inlet/outlet that are typically capped? If I'm not mistaken, you should be able to access those from the bottom.

[Rasmus]

which gets the oil out and leaves you with only one line passing through the "Hell-hole" area. But where to return it?

Returning the oil though most of these will have the oil running in reverse from normal for select sections of the oil galleries. Will that be a problem? I don't know.
There will also be a dead section starting from the original oil filter return port, where there will be pressure but no flow. Will that be a problem? I don't know.

[ssssly]

Why not just add a tap to the top of the pan and run it back there.

I don't know the passage flows and scavanges well enough to suggest one, other than the turbo oil return.

[Scargo]

Why not just add a tap to the top of the pan and run it back there.

I don't know the passage flows and scaveanges well enough to suggest one, other than the turbo oil return.

But then you are not pressurizing anything.

Rasmus, you're about as worthless as teats on a boar (on this one). Is that a problem? ... LOL
I know the flow and such, but I wouldn't want to interrupt the paths of pressure and direction of flow by just sticking the return in anywhere. It needs to feed all of the engine and/or be balanced in it's delivery.
I know people have experimented with the oil delivery for racing. I tried to get a builder to talk to me about it and they wouldn't answer my emails. My block is supposed to have bored out galleys and porting work, but that's not changing where oil enters the engine.
I'd probably weld an AN fitting on the side of the right bottom plugged passage of the oil pump if I gain the confidence. I have felt that those plugs were there only to seal off the pump after it was machined, not really as an optional in and out. Perhaps someone knows otherwise.