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Thread: San Diego builds, One the easy way, one the hard way

  1. #41
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Carbon fiber!!

    I just received my Carbon Splitter and Fiberglass spoiler. BUT!!! , its a CARBON SPOILER. I was super pumped that the rear spoiler came in a carbon fiber that matches the front splitter exactly.

    From the FFR web site as I ordered it:
    Product Description


    Use this fiberglass Street Spoiler for some added rear downforce and a great look. We tested this spoiler in the wind tunnel along with the other 818 aero components and found it to produce a great balance of downforce with the Carbon Fiber Street Splitter. The Street Spoiler is made of hand-laid fiberglass and can be installed using screws, rivets, or double-sided tape.



    Now I just have to figure out how to mount it. It's hollow inside with only a small, .75" long, flange on back side only. The picture on FFR website shows a flange on both sides. My initial thoughts are to glass in some nuts that I can screw into from inside the trunk lid.

    This is a picture of the two pieces side by side.
    2-IMG_9049.JPG

  2. #42
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    My kids 'helping' me last night. These are their first holes drilled in real metal. It was funny watching my 8 year old daughter trying to put in an 1/8" rivet.
    1-IMG_9047.JPG

  3. #43
    Moonlight Performance
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    I'm not 100% positive but when I ordered mine and talked with the guy at FF, I'm pretty esure he said it was a fiberglass spoiler with one layer of carbon on top. On a part this small, it really doesn't matter if it's fiberglass with an overlay of carbon..... the carbon sure looks nice though. Will be quite a while before I get to the install. I was thinking about using an adhesive to attach it.

  4. #44
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    I have the pure fiberglass version and I just riveted it on for now. For final install I was planning to use some epoxy, then re-rivet, and blend the edges with filler.


  5. #45
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Nice! My spoiler is early vintage, black fiberglass. I got the whole street aero kit, the splitter, skirts and diffuser are carbon fiber. So my plan is to paint the speedhumps black, probably the spoiler too. so the theme will be cf below, black on top. I'm going to try VHB tape rather than riviting.

  6. #46
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    Did FFR change how they do the splitter, diffuser, and side skirts? The quality looks much better than what I received.

  7. #47
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    I missed when you started this thread. Congrats on getting the cars. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with both cars as it looks like they will end up very different.
    Last edited by svanlare; 08-21-2014 at 04:04 PM.

  8. #48
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GUNS View Post
    Did FFR change how they do the splitter, diffuser, and side skirts? The quality looks much better than what I received.
    There was a post on another build thread a few weeks ago that someone actually got 1 old version and 1 new version side skirt. I guess the old versions were more textured with dull finish.

    The finish on both of my parts is glossy and the rear is 100% carbon.

  9. #49
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    If either you or Mechie decide to sell the hardware for the shift linkage I am interested.

  10. #50
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Caster plates

    Caster plates were discussed on this forum and on Subi forums, so I made some. I went a little overboard, just because I could.
    caster plate2.JPG
    caster plate 1.JPG

  11. #51
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Turn Signal Mod

    I wanted a different steering wheel, but the Subaru Roll Connector will not fit. The Steering Roll Connector not only passes through all the steering wheel controls, but also cancels the turn signal. I made a few 3-D prints of an adapter, now my turn signal cancels with a Momo wheel. Yay!
    turn cancel 3.JPG

    turn cancel.JPG

    turn cancel 2.JPG

  12. #52
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Passenger Foot Well Question / Opinion

    I'm putting some of the interior sheet metal in to get a feel for where I can put stuff. The passenger foot area seems really cramped for no reason. I don't think two adult male size 11 shoes will fit side by side.
    The left side sheet metal takes a 30 degreeish bend into the foot well. Is this to make room for all the factory wire harness? I plan on eliminating all the factory fuse boxes, so I will not need so much room behind the dash panel.

    There is also a flange on the top and bottom edge of the panel. The bottom flange gets riveted to the floor, i guess. I don't know what to do with the top flange. It seems to just float there, just below the dash board.
    pass foot well 2.JPG

    Pass foot well.JPG

  13. #53
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    It's probably there to stiffen the top edge so it doesn't flap around.

  14. #54
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    While your in a fabrication mode, you can make one of these for your passengers comfort.

    http://www.sparcousa.com/product/navigator

  15. #55
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Saving weight

    Doing my part to follow Rasmus's build (weight reduction)...

    Aluminum mirror mounts: .66 lbs saved
    IMG_9172.JPG

  16. #56
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matteo92065 View Post
    I'm putting some of the interior sheet metal in to get a feel for where I can put stuff.
    So what did you decide as I'm in the same boat, seems like the fuse boxes is why the side is bent, I don't see any value in taking up the space if you have nothing there.
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  17. #57
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    I straightened the passenger foot well sheet metal and made it hit the front firewall at 90 deg. Had to trim 3-4"? off the front to get it to fit. Now the passenger foot well is as big as it can get. I do agree that the extra internal room was for the factory wiring harness. I will be rewiring to eliminate the factory fuse boxes, so I will not need all that dead, useless internal space.

  18. #58
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    My fuse box is currently loosely stuffed in the tunnel. I don't think that piece has to bend out for any reason.
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  19. #59
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matteo92065 View Post
    Doing my part to follow Rasmus's build (weight reduction)...

    Aluminum mirror mounts: .66 lbs saved
    IMG_9172.JPG
    I just went with these, even lighter!

    P1110809.JPG

    APR GT3 http://aprperformance.com/index.php?...&id=91&Itemid= You can pick them up for less than $200
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  20. #60
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    If you don't mind, what seats did you end up putting in the two cars?
    -Steve

  21. #61
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    I am using some very narrow Corbeau seats that I found off Craigslist. I'm on a budget. I am also making it so that I can put in the 06 WRX seats. I fit in the Corbeau seats just fine, but anyone bigger than me is out of luck. I want to be able to give my boss and my Mother (and anyone else) a ride every-now-and-then.
    The 'hard way' is getting some very nice Sparco seats. I don't know the model, but I'll take pictures next time they are in the car(s).

  22. #62
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    I just went with these, even lighter!

    P1110809.JPG

    APR GT3 http://aprperformance.com/index.php?...&id=91&Itemid= You can pick them up for less than $200
    I'll check into those, Thanks!

  23. #63
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    The seats are almost mounted, I like building this car!

    Had a nice relaxing evening working on the car. Listened to some music, welded, cut metal, had a little beer.

    These are some pictures of how my passenger sheetmetal came out.
    IMG_9178.JPGIMG_9176.JPGIMG_9177.JPG

    I was having such a good time I had to take a selfie to capture the moment....
    IMG_9173.JPGIMG_9174.JPG

  24. #64
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    Looks like the cars are coming together nicely. Thanks for the seat info.
    -Steve

  25. #65
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    That's why these are so much fun! Wonderful evenings and weekends where we can step back and admire our work and take photos of it. Weekdays are for planning the next steps and posting photos.
    BTW, nice work on the K-Tuned shifter mount.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  26. #66
    Senior Member FFRSpec72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matteo92065 View Post
    I straightened the passenger foot well sheet metal and made it hit the front firewall at 90 deg. Had to trim 3-4"? off the front to get it to fit. Now the passenger foot well is as big as it can get. I do agree that the extra internal room was for the factory wiring harness. I will be rewiring to eliminate the factory fuse boxes, so I will not need all that dead, useless internal space.
    So why does the drivers side console panel only go half the way up and the passenger side console panlel goes what looks kike all the way up to dash area? Did you ever figure out what the passenger side top flange attaches to ?
    Tony Nadalin
    2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
    2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
    2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
    FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
    818R Build in progress

  27. #67
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matteo92065 View Post
    Had a nice relaxing evening working on the car. Listened to some music, welded, cut metal, had a little beer.

    These are some pictures of how my passenger sheetmetal came out.
    IMG_9178.JPGIMG_9176.JPGIMG_9177.JPG

    I was having such a good time I had to take a selfie to capture the moment....
    IMG_9173.JPGIMG_9174.JPG
    I thought I recognized you.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  28. #68
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    finished ABS Plumbing

    I finished all the ABS brake lines and valves. Yes! Hopefully, no leaks.
    IMG_9197 (2).JPG IMG_9196.JPG
    I installed two proportioning valves like some other people have talked about. I installed them under the dash so that I can reach them to adjust. I think its strange that FFR recommends them under the hood. What a pain to actually adjust it!

    Oh, yea.... Remember that strange cut out on the Drivers foot box sheet metal? Well I put my valves lined up with that cut out. Now it looks like it was suppose to be there for hand clearance. :roll eyes:

  29. #69
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    That rear motor mount

    I installed the dog bone motor mount. Anti-torque?
    IMG_9189 (1).JPG IMG_9188.JPG

  30. #70
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Dash Board Fitting. Over and Over and Over and Over

    I think I've installed that damn dash board 15 times tonight alone. Trying to get it just right. I thought I had it all good last week, until I tried to put in the gauge cluster tonight. It hit in three different spots when trying to install it per instructions.
    I ended up up putting a spacer in the top center screw to keep it a little higher in the dash so that the ODO reset button doesn't rub on the surround.
    I had to cut off the corners of the steering column mount because it was hitting the bottom of the gauge cluster. Lastly I had to run the bottom two screws in the opposite direction from the instructions to keep them from hitting the 1x1 steel tube.
    When I finally finished the gauge install... There is a gap on the left and right side of the cluster. Is this normal or are people trimming the dash to get it to fit better? Or when it's all installed you can't notice the gap?

    And left my mark on the inside of the dash. Who knows when the next person will see it.
    IMG_9200.JPG IMG_9198.JPG IMG_9199.JPG

  31. #71
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Wiring!

    I've been working on wiring. and working. and working.

    My goal was to do something between what the FFR manual says and what iWire would do. Doing it this way should be easier for me and others to troubleshoot, as all the Subaru wire colors and names are unchanged. So far I am very pleased with the results.

    The biggest change to the harness was to remove the two large fuse panels. Then replace them with one of these fuse panels. Since most of what is on the original panels is no longer being used, I don't see the need of keeping them around and trying to place them.
    I did keep the individual relays like B102, B103, B46, B47, B309 and the F27 relay block.

    I'm down to 23 fuses/breakers, and 5 relays.

    This is a picture of my panel with call outs.
    fuse panel C.jpg

    This is shows more detail:
    fuse panel a.jpg

  32. #72
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Quick Exhaust

    Start with an Invidia V2 Downpipe Bellmouth. Cut it up. Reweld it.
    Going to try straight pipe first, and add muffler if needed.

    IMG_9434.JPGIMG_9435.JPG

  33. #73
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Would you happen to have a drawing or CAD model of your linkage mount? I love that design. On the other hand, if you're thinking about selling them, consider me an interested buyer.

  34. #74
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Would you happen to have a drawing or CAD model of your linkage mount? I love that design. On the other hand, if you're thinking about selling them, consider me an interested buyer.
    pm sent

  35. #75
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Would you happen to have a drawing or CAD model of your linkage mount? I love that design. On the other hand, if you're thinking about selling them, consider me an interested buyer.
    I'd like a copy of the CAD model also if your ok giving it out!
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  36. #76
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    I'd like a copy of the CAD model also if your ok giving it out!
    Hit me up again in a couple weeks. I don't have any problems giving it out, I just want to drive it first before I give it out. I'd like to make sure it works I'll post my progress here.

  37. #77
    Mechie3's Avatar
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    He lives! I've been wondering what you've been up to. I think most people disappear during the wiring phase.
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  38. #78
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    Any more pics of the hard way interior? I love your idea of sloping the center console.

  39. #79
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Ahhh, HELL!
    I've been putting in a lot of hours on my car. Got everything connected and fluids filled. The car turns over, but does not start.
    I pulled a spark plug and coil pack, and put the threads to ground and cranked the engine. I have no spark. The coil packs have power and ground.
    I've been looking for loose grounds and such.
    OBDII works, so I know the ECU is alive.
    Power appears to be going where it should go.
    Suggestions?
    its a 2006 WRX

  40. #80
    Senior Member matteo92065's Avatar
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    Never mind! got it. it was a loose Crankshaft Position Sensor. I actually rechecked it because it was one of faults on the OBDII scan.
    Fired right up! Does not idle so good. It stumbles around below 2000 rpm. After 3000 RPM it wants to GO!
    I will get to drive it this weekend. Yay.
    Last edited by matteo92065; 02-11-2015 at 12:18 AM. Reason: spelling

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