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Thread: Harley's 818S

  1. #161
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Harley
    I did the exact same things tonight, except I didn't take pictures.
    One other thing I also did, is set the height of the bumper.
    It is supposed to be 1/2" higher than the bottom of the cockpit. I bought a 10 foot piece of 1.5" square unistrut steel from lowes ($20).
    I jacked this up against the bottom of the car leaving it stick out the front. The bar in the nose ended up with 1" between the bar and the lower fiberglass edge. I will make a spacer tomorrow. I am close to clecoing (if that is a word) my body to my frame.

    I have not touched my doors yet.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  2. #162
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
    wallace18's Avatar
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    Looking much better IMO.

  3. #163
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Looking good, how many beers? My last attack at getting it just right took 3 beers and a visit from a friend. I think the top of your fenders are too low, it looks like they are sliding under the windshield posts, they need to be outside of them.

    P1120498.JPG P1120488.JPG

    Bob, most of us used a piece of angle to hold the bottom of the nose to the radiator support, the nose never comes back far enough to allow screws up into nutserts in the tubing. You need to cut an arc into the front end of the bracket that you make Mike Emerson got there and did a nice write up first http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d-thread/page5
    Last edited by RM1SepEx; 04-07-2015 at 07:26 AM.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  4. #164
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Looking good, how many beers? My last attack at getting it just right took 3 beers and a visit from a friend. I think the top of your fenders are too low, it looks like they are sliding under the windshield posts, they need to be outside of them.

    P1120498.JPG P1120488.JPG

    Bob, most of us used a piece of angle to hold the bottom of the nose to the radiator support, the nose never comes back far enough to allow screws up into nutserts in the tubing. You need to cut an arc into the front end of the bracket that you make Mike Emerson got there and did a nice write up first http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...d-thread/page5
    Thank Dan
    Mikes thread is the same as I had planed. Gives me confidence that I am doing it correct.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 04-07-2015 at 04:59 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  5. #165
    Harley818's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=RM1SepEx;194366] I think the top of your fenders are too low, it looks like they are sliding under the windshield posts, they need to be outside of them.

    the nose never comes back far enough to allow screws up into nutserts in the tubing.

    Thanks for the comments.
    on the first item, my hood/fender ends are intersecting with the windshield posts (possibly because they are too low??). you are right, that they wouldn't interfere if I could get them higher. They are already spaced up 1/2 in higher on the mounting brackets, and I can't go higher unless I unbolt from the side sail, or move the side sail up.....which is secure against the bottom of the car frame (I already looked at that but it would be significant mods to the FRP.

    on your second item - my FRP nose is right back and up against the support steel tubing......... I could use nutserts in the tubing but the heads would show on the front which wouldn't look good. Is this too far towards the rad? I had to move it here to get the right fit to the front of the side sails.

    looks like another 3 - 4 beers to figure this out tonight!
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  6. #166
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    I mounted my fenders to the side sails, then aligned and mounted them to the fender/wheel wells, these are the first areas that must align in one place. The body lines make it easy. Then you slide the nose back to get the fender tips aligned where they meet the headlights and the nose. Next add the hood and attempt to get good gaps.

    This is where the beers come in. I have 10 of those cheap little vice grips with the little square pads to clamp stuff together. The body panels do need to be twisted and torqued into place... It's important to me that I have wiper space and don't cut the hood. I'd commit Hari-Kari before I cut out my hood for the FFR wipers... just can't do it. So I have a support in the center to bow up my hood. It gives me a nice 2 inch space over the windshield...

    When you play with the rear, you find the same problem. The panels get flat while the trunk and engine covers have arcs that need to be supported. Chris (Metalmaker) determined that he needed 8 inches over the brace that is under the stock IC. Mine is slightly lower.

    So "stretching" the fender up, bowing the fenders running along the hood, bowing the hood, engine cover and trunk... it all adds up.

    That's why I consider this a mean 3D puzzle. Every decision that you make effects something else.
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  7. #167
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    LOL... "I'd commit hari-kari". Hard-core engineering type.
    Watching videos I've seen a lot of rear end hood vibration. In one (of a FFR mule) I am seeing some kind of rear, mid-hood bracket. It makes me think that FFR used a magnet or better to hold the hood down and control its flapping. I am contemplating an aluminum brace across the back edge. In the middle it would perhaps pivot down and lock into something as it slides onto mounting pins.
    Would love to drink beer and brainstorm with you. I'll be in Seattle Saturday. So close.

  8. #168
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    I made a hood bracket along with others to stop the flop.
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  9. #169
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Why is it the dogs always gravitate to the seats? At least Cali realizes which one is hers!
    We have two dogs and they LOVE working with me in the garage......bribing with treats helps too.
    photo 1.JPG

    Then I got this bad boy in the mail today..... now I'm looking for the shoehorn to get it to fit. Dual exhaust coming by hook or by crook.
    photo 2.JPG

    Bob, I checked the height of the front bumper with your method. Its about 5/8 to 3/4 in higher than the frame tubing.
    RM1SepEx, thanks for the encouragement... sounds like I just need more beer and clamps. I plan to add permanent underhood supports once I decide that its all fitting right to avoid the vibration issues. I hate vibrations and squeeks/noises so mine will be tight. In the meantime, I'm using wood blocks to shim here and there.

    got home from work late so not much else happening here tonight.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  10. #170
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Tonight things just fell into place.

    Dan, I checked the windshield pillar and double checked the measurements from the top of the windshield to the top corner of the trunk. Windshield needed to come down.
    As soon as I re-adjusted it down, and re-checked the 33 in measure at the middle to the rollbar, the back fender/hood corners worked out just like your pictures.
    I added a 3/4 in shim under the back corner of the fender at the support to lift it a bit as well.
    In the center of the front bumper, I have about 1 in from the fiberglass to the lower bumper support where you put your angle.

    Then I went on to set the frame on 5 in blocks and torqued all my suspension.
    Took the blocks out, and now just adjusting the springs to get it back to ride height on the springs.

    I just want to make sure I get the wheels centered in the wheelwells before I bolt the body in place.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  11. #171
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Took a few days off from the body, went skiing, went to the cabin, but back at it today and yesterday.
    I think I finally have the body where I want it.

    DSCF4867.jpgDSCF4898.jpg

    Overall, my goal was to align everything without stressing the parts. We product fiberglass products, and the ones that are stressed, always have problems.

    My goals were to end up with the wheels centered in the wheelwells, and to have nice even gaps. Like Aloha, I want the car to look as production finished as possible.

    Today, I took it apart and started over from the beginning. This was my process:

    I set up the rear sails at the 5/8 in back point to start, as suggested in the manual, and bolted on the rear bumper. I used two 1/4-20 bolts on each joint that I had previously drilled. When I am completely done, I will drill two additional holes with tight tolerance bolts to hold it in final position.
    I had already trimmed a clearance on the bottom of the bumper for the rear transmission mount bolt that interferes on the bottom with the fiberglass.

    I had already put together the front bumper fenders assembly on the floor, aligning the fender bumper joint, and aligning the front of the fender points where they join the bumper at the front of the hood. These were bolted together with 10-24 riv-nuts. I'll add one or two tight tolerance bolts later to lock the position.
    I ground down the corners of the steel frame front bumper mounting points. This was suggested on the forum as the sharp corners interfere with the alignment of the front bumper. I hadn't done this before today.
    Then I mounted the front bumper/fender assembly roughly in place.
    I located spacer blocks under the bumper to get the correct height at 3/4 in. above the frame height. (apparently they are supposed to be higher than the frame).
    DSCF4870.jpgDSCF4872.jpg

    The side sails were too far back to allow correct connection to the fenders without excessive stress, so I moved them forward, and bolted the front fender to the front of the sail using rivnuts.
    I played with the whole assembly alignment moving it front to back until I had the front wheels in the center of the wheelwell.
    DSCF4874.jpg
    The position ended up with the front of the side sail 1/4 in back from the front of the frame. (Edit - this measurement is supposed to be with the front flange trimmed off so in effect, the 1/4 in is actually 7/8 - 1 in !!! ).
    DSCF4873.jpg

    At this position, the distance from the inside of the rollbar square support tube to the front of the top corner of the door sill fiberglass was 7 5/8 in. on both sides. You can just see the bracket for the door latch by the seat.
    DSCF4875.jpgDSCF4876.jpg

    The front bumper fiberglass height: top of steel support tube is 1 3/4 in below the top of the glass crossmember.
    DSCF4871.jpg
    The fiberglass is right back against the support steel.
    DSCF4882.jpg

    The bumper is located slightly to the right (about 3/8 in.) on the upper steel support pads. I think this is due to the misalignment on the front rad support frame. Mine measured pretty square when i measured it crossways, but the fiberglass is not located symetrically on the pads.
    Last edited by Harley818; 04-26-2015 at 11:42 PM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  12. #172
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Continued......
    Attachment 41346Attachment 41347Attachment 41348Attachment 41349

    I centered the rear bumper by measuring from the lower frame to the sharp point in the fiberglass behind the rear tire. 21 inches both sides.
    Attachment 41350

    I threw the hump trunk on when I was adjusting the side fender widths, and spaced it out with paint stick width.
    Attachment 41351Attachment 41352Attachment 41353Attachment 41354
    Then I measured and adjusted the rear side fenders from the upper shock to the outside of the fender at the top of the wheelwell. I clamped it at 13 inches both sides with good gaps. Then I laid the rear trunk lid in and checked the gaps. OK at the front, but no gaps at the back side, and there is a 1/2 in gap at the very back bumper when there are paint stick widths between the two trunk lids. The lid is not curved as much as the bumper, so if I set some weights on it I'm sure the gaps will get better.
    Attachment 41355
    Last edited by Harley818; 04-26-2015 at 11:04 PM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  13. #173
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Continued.....

    I laid the front hood in place, spaced it with paint sticks, and adjusted the width of the fenders.
    DSCF4898.jpg
    I measured and adjusted the front side fenders from the upper ball joint to the outside of the fender at the top of the wheelwell. 11 inches both sides.
    I installed an aluminum angle to hold them apart at the correct width.
    DSCF4905.jpg
    DSCF4902.jpg
    DSCF4903.jpg
    DSCF4894.jpgDSCF4895.jpgDSCF4896.jpg
    DSCF4897.jpg
    For RMSepex, I measured at the rear crossbar. 9.4 mm on the passenger side from the welded tab to the inside edge of the fiberglass ridge. 9.3 mm on the drivers side.
    Clearance at the rollbar both sides is zero. Fiberglass is touching, but doesn't need to be trimmed.
    DSCF4890.jpgDSCF4891.jpg

    Last measurement was the soft-top distances. 26.25 to the corner of the windshield, but only 32 at the top of the middle to the rollbar. I haven't played around with this much yet, and I might be out of luck getting them both, but I'm pleased with all the other measurements and alignments.

    I have nice paint stick gaps everywhere, except the trunk, and wheels are centered in the wheelwells.
    Last edited by Harley818; 04-26-2015 at 10:58 PM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  14. #174
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Hi Harley,
    I have been working on the same body alignment.
    Great write up and pictures.

    One Little thing, the 5/8" measurement on the side sails is with the front edge trimmed off. see this picture.
    Bob
    five_eights.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  15. #175
    Harley818's Avatar
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    One more thing I should have mentioned, the rear of the front fenders are sitting on the supports. I had previously stretched them and had spacers. Don't need them now unless I want to try to get the hood a bit higher for the windsheild wipers. I'm going to try to keep it as high as I can.

    DSCF4906.jpgDSCF4907.jpgDSCF4908.jpgDSCF4909.jpg


    Drilled out the aluminum panel for the front of the door
    DSCF4899.jpg

    Now that I have the body where I want it I started drilling locations for rivnuts on the rear sails.
    DSCF4901.jpg

    Decided it was time to rivet in the front splash panels I should have done long ago..... had to disconnect the brakeline.... so now have to re-bleed.
    DSCF4910.jpgDSCF4911.jpg
    Last edited by Harley818; 04-26-2015 at 11:21 PM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  16. #176
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Bob, Thanks for pointing that out. I just re-measured based on if I had the front edge trimmed out..... I have 7/8 to 1 in. I guess I read those along time ago.....

    Why wouldn't they use this flange to bolt to the front of the frame? Is it in the way of something else? or will it look bad?
    Are you trimming yours off?
    Last edited by Harley818; 04-26-2015 at 11:22 PM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  17. #177
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    Bob, Thanks for pointing that out. I just re-measured based on if I had the front edge trimmed out..... I have 7/8 to 1 in. I guess I read those along time ago.....

    Why wouldn't they use this flange to bolt to the front of the frame? Is it in the way of something else? or will it look bad?
    Are you trimming yours off?
    I am leaving mine on. Going to put one or 2 revnuts into it.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  18. #178
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    Bob, Thanks for pointing that out. I just re-measured based on if I had the front edge trimmed out..... I have 7/8 to 1 in. I guess I read those along time ago.....

    Why wouldn't they use this flange to bolt to the front of the frame? Is it in the way of something else? or will it look bad?
    Are you trimming yours off?
    When you put in the funky bent aluminum with the slot in it (item 1, pn 80126 in exploded diagram) there isn't any clearance for that piece, I'm leaving mine too and trimming the aluminum

    now that your body is that far back you won't be able to rotate your door latch brackets in place without modifying the rectangular slots
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  19. #179
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    When you put in the funky bent aluminum with the slot in it (item 1, pn 80126 in exploded diagram) there isn't any clearance for that piece, I'm leaving mine too and trimming the aluminum

    now that your body is that far back you won't be able to rotate your door latch brackets in place without modifying the rectangular slots
    I'll trim the aluminum as well. I'd rather have the body where I want it.
    Also I have the latch brackets in place.... just had to file out the slot so one end was square for the carriage bolt. Didn't take too long and allowed me to install right where it was.

    I took the back bumper off for some secret modifications.......more later when I can show you.
    In the meantime, I cut up my stainless steel muffler and mandrel bent piping so I can finalize my exhaust. Going for dual, but I wanted to keep it low so I can still have a bit of a trunk.
    photo 1-1.JPGphoto 2-1.JPG
    One side will go straight out, the other will loop up over the trans to the other side and exit out the back.
    Just mocked up and marked at the moment..... now bringing to work to get one of the guys to weld it up.

    I haven't had time lately...... seems like there is an equation out there that no matter how many combustion engines you have there is always 1 that isn't working,.... or is it two?

    A couple weeks ago my 9.9 merc kicker wouldn't start.... so I did a carb rebuild. Now runs like a top.
    Then the Yamaha 125 wouldn't start... another carb rebuild... now its working.
    Went to start the jeep at the cabin... battery dead after sitting since October. Brought it home to charge it up.
    Went to run the generator.....runs but stalls when you apply load... need to figure that one out now.
    Chainsaw still works......gas trimmer still works......lol
    Then brakes on the Tundra, brakes on the mini, and finally time for the 818 again.
    Last edited by Harley818; 05-08-2015 at 12:35 AM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  20. #180
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I'm always finding glop in the carburetors of stuff I have in BC. Gas treatment seems to help. Low octane, cheap gas seems to be the culprit. Over-winter it turns into gas boogers, much like gelatin and clogs everything. When people at the lake have trouble with their 9.9's I just say let me clean your carburetor...

  21. #181
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scargo View Post
    I'm always finding glop in the carburetors of stuff I have in BC. Gas treatment seems to help. Low octane, cheap gas seems to be the culprit. Over-winter it turns into gas boogers, much like gelatin and clogs everything. When people at the lake have trouble with their 9.9's I just say let me clean your carburetor...
    so true.....and a carb rebuild is only an hours work.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  22. #182
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Got a couple hours yesterday ........and got the passenger side rear sails drilled, rivnuts installed, and bolted in place.
    All the bolts fit!
    What I have been doing is drilling holes to 1/8 in like I would for rivets, installing cleco's as I go.
    Then I upsize the drill to 3/16, then to the rivnut pilot size for 10-24 rivnuts.
    By upsizing and drilling slowly, it seems the location stays centered.
    Once done with the rivnuts, I drill the fiberglass for 10-24 clearance holes, and bolt it in.
    I was really surprized that they all fit without having to re-drill the frp clearance holes. There was about 20 holes.
    Once I was done.... nice and solid feel to the side sail.

    I'm thinking though that I'll have to do the final bolt in with loctite to avoid the body panel from coming loose under vibration.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  23. #183
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    I'm thinking though that I'll have to do the final bolt in with loctite to avoid the body panel from coming loose under vibration.
    Harley
    I'm doing similar but using 1/4-20 revnuts. I put a dab of rtv on the threads of every screw to prevent it from backing out under vibration.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 05-14-2015 at 10:09 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  24. #184
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Is the RTV easy to unscrew later on? Maybe I'll try one and see myself.

    Last night I drilled and riveted all the screws for the Drivers side sail. Again, by starting with 1/8 through both fiberglass and steel, and using cleco's, then using 3/16 in the steel, then the 10-24 rivnut pilot drill, and finally drilling out the fiberglass to 3/16, I got them all to align! Truthfully, I had to drill one hole a little larger to get it to start.
    Hopefully I will get sometime this weekend to drill and rivnut the front end,and get the second headlight installed.
    My Passenger headlight bucket doesn't have much of a lip so I plan to bond on 3 angles to the front bumper to support the bucket, and since I'm at it, I'll do the same for the driver side so they are the same.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  25. #185
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    I use this stuff.
    617l5f9-eUL._SL1265_.jpg
    Ordinary RTV caulk or an RTV silicone sealant (instant gasket, like Permatex products) would probably be fine as Bob said. Certainly works well for plumbed pieces on an engine block (and they come apart without grief).

  26. #186
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Got a couple hours in on the weekend.
    The windshield is now mounted in final position. It was a balance of locating far enough back to give enough clearance at the back corner of the fender and hood. and having it high enough to clear the top front of the door. When I set it up I couldn't achieve the 26.25 and 33 inches at the center to the rollbar. I got 26.75 and 32 in. Hope that's close enough, otherwise I'll have to modify the back of the hood and fender area.

    I also trimmed the engine cover and front hood, cutting the return flanges down to the right height. Now they fit really nice..... Pics later.

    Working on getting the exhaust set up.... tacked it all, trial fit it, and now getting it welded up.
    Also more progress on my back bumper mods. Hopefully I can show pics in the next 2 weeks.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  27. #187
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Picked up my air-water intercooler on the weekend while in Seattle for my son's baseball tournament.

    Got the radiator mocked up in place and made the top bracket. Fits nicely between the fiberglass from the front bumper. Now have to figure out the lower support bracket.
    DSCF4913.jpgDSCF4914.jpg

    While I was in there I thought I would make a bracket to hold the front bumper to the support steel. My front bumper is right up against the steel, but I still needed to add the angle to hold it at the right height.
    DSCF4916.jpg

    I wasn't sure on hose sizes for the intercooler so I did a trial fit with the sizes I bought, but now am changing it up a bit. My intercooler is the 600hp one with 3 in openings. I am using a 3 x 2.5 90 degree, then 2.5 stainless tube to the next 2.5 x 2.0 90 degree, then 2 in tube to the reducer and into the turbo.
    I also have to figure out where to put my BPV. I was thinking of welding a mounting bracket for the stock one. is this a good or bad idea? or should I buy a new BPV? I would rather have the BPV route the air back into the system instead of out of the system (since it would mess up the A/F ratio otherwise).
    Or is this a dumb idea and I should just buy a new BPV? What are the rest of you doing?
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  28. #188
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    I also have to figure out where to put my BPV. I was thinking of welding a mounting bracket for the stock one. is this a good or bad idea? or should I buy a new BPV? I would rather have the BPV route the air back into the system instead of out of the system (since it would mess up the A/F ratio otherwise).
    Or is this a dumb idea and I should just buy a new BPV? What are the rest of you doing?
    Harley, how much boost are you planning on running? I've heard the stock BPV can leak at high boost but otherwise should work fine. If you ran a vent to atmosphere BOV it would only mess up your AFR when you let off the throttle and the air escapes, causing a momentary rich condition as the RPMs drop. This can be corrected with tuning. I ran a turboxs RFL BOV (vent to atmosphere) in the wrx for years without any issues. I think it comes down to personal preference on the sound - BPVs are more subtle while BOVs make that PSHHHHHHHH! I enjoy the sound so I'm going to be running the HKS SSQV on the 818. HKS makes a recirculating adapter for this BOV so later on I have that option if I choose.
    IMAG1190.jpg

  29. #189
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I like your bumper bracket!

    Looks like you'll have to cut the bumper more when you add hoses to your AWIC radiator. We had to do the same.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  30. #190
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    I like your bumper bracket!

    Looks like you'll have to cut the bumper more when you add hoses to your AWIC radiator. We had to do the same.
    Yes, I'll be cutting into the front bumper for clearance on the one side.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  31. #191
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Harley, how much boost are you planning on running? I've heard the stock BPV can leak at high boost but otherwise should work fine. If you ran a vent to atmosphere BOV it would only mess up your AFR when you let off the throttle and the air escapes, causing a momentary rich condition as the RPMs drop. This can be corrected with tuning. I ran a turboxs RFL BOV (vent to atmosphere) in the wrx for years without any issues. I think it comes down to personal preference on the sound - BPVs are more subtle while BOVs make that PSHHHHHHHH! I enjoy the sound so I'm going to be running the HKS SSQV on the 818. HKS makes a recirculating adapter for this BOV so later on I have that option if I choose.
    IMAG1190.jpg
    I'm planning to run moderate boost, so nothing alot higher than stock, but who knows? I have a heavy foot.
    And as you point out the BOV sound is more pronounced than the BPV. I'm not a fan of the Pshhhhh! I think it would get stale fast, but to each his own.
    Thanks for the info.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  32. #192
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    Wind noise, motor noise... You will soon forget the Pshhh sound. At least I have in my loud STi. I hardly hear the chime, which I clearly hear in my latest videos, thanks to an external, stereo mic. Then again, I wear a helmet and am partially deaf.

    On another note, (nice segue, huh?) I am not expecting anyone to change or go along with me, but I would like to point out that the bodywork everyone is referring to as a bumper is really not. It's the nose or front fascia. The 818 has no bumper.
    OK, I said it. It's off my chest. Carry on.

  33. #193
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I'm hoping we can convince the CT DMV that it's a bumper. They have wording in the requirements for composite vehicles saying they require a bumper...
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  34. #194
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Glynn, you are of course correct, but I was just going with the flow since that is what everyone else was calling it. They aren't really side sails either.... aren't they front & rear fenders or quarter panels?
    Whats the Tazio Nuvolari name for the rear bumper? the Buttscia? Ha ha. couldn't resist..... (and yes, I had to look him up).
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  35. #195
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I spoke with the CT DMV today, they're officially not bumpers lol. They require a bar across the front and rear of the car, to within 6" of either side of the car, 16-22" off the ground. Not sure how we're going to fit that... but we'll figure out a way.

    I guess after we have a metal brace connected to the frame behind the front fascia, we could call it a bumper?
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  36. #196
    Tazio Nuvolari wannabe Scargo's Avatar
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    No. With a bumper behind it, it's a fascia... That's MY opinion. LOL. I think I will be at the Wicked Big Meet.
    Coming through Vancouver on the 18th.

  37. #197
    Harley818's Avatar
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    Time for an update.
    Like many, I am now re-doing stuff i have already completed. Having too much fun I guess.

    Shifter. I had the FFR shifter installed, adjusted and working great, but I just didn't like the feel. So..... now I bought an MR2 shifter off ebay and am following other threads to see how best to set up my shifter position and bell crank assembly for the best overall arrangement. I'm planning a dual exhaust Vman style, so I need the room... Stay tuned.

    Intercooler. I decided I wanted to add some insurance to the heating issues, so I bought a bunch of components from FB. I didn't realize at the time that Mechie has a discount going, so I missed out on that (every little bit helps). I had to play with a bunch of options to get it to work out, but now I'm happy with the ultimate result.
    I bought the 600hp version - I figured the extra cooling would be good. I also went for the Cobra circulating pump, and am going to try out the greddy knockoff BOV.
    I have a 2002 WRX donor so my heater line is in the center and in the way. To avoid interference issues with the heater line, and the IC hitting the engine cover, I went with a 45 degree reducer from the IC to the throttle valve. I cut it back a bit so its now a 30 degree reducer. This arrangement allow me to fit it in without interference and more space all around.
    DSCF4930.jpgDSCF4931.jpgDSCF4932.jpg
    This is how much I cut off.
    DSCF4934.jpg

    With the 30 degree reducer, IC mounting brackets are also easier to form.
    DSCF4935.jpgDSCF4936.jpgDSCF4940.jpgDSCF4941.jpg
    I'm using some 1/8 x 1 in SS flatbar which is easy enough to bend and twist into position.

    I haven't figured out my BOV hook-up entirely, but I'm hoping to just extend the stock hose to the turbo inlet BOV hose.
    The black mark on the top of the IC is where I plan to tap for my intake temp sensor.
    Also, I'm planning to tap into the water side to allow a bleed valve for the coolant.

    If anyone's interested, I can post all the parts I ended up buying from FB (which you can get cheaper through Mechie)..
    Last edited by Harley818; 06-19-2015 at 12:39 AM.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  38. #198
    Harley818's Avatar
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    I also have my rear bumper back from getting a few mods......Vman style.
    I'm now able to finish mocking up the rest of my dual exhaust and should be able to post Pics soon I hope.
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  39. #199
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
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    Nice progress! The intercooler setup looks good.

  40. #200
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Re-doing work is the worst! But, it looks like it is coming together well!

    We missed you during your month break Don't leave us hanging so long next time.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

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