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Thread: Harley's 818S

  1. #1

    Smile Harley's 818S

    Time to start building.
    I've been reading and watching the rest of you build since September.
    Decided to go for it and ordered the 818S in November. Delivery day is Next week....hopefully.... after some delays......

    Cleaned up half the garage in December, pulled my donor apart in January, then started cleaning up parts, decided on which way to go for adds and deletes, and now after ordering some parts, they are safely stowed and ready.
    I laughed when some of you were talking about revenge spending by your wife. I told mine I was starting revenge spending for all the shoes and purses she has bought over the years......lol

    Tomorrow I start putting the engine back together.
    This has already been alot of fun for me. I was really into cars early on, built my first car when I was 17 after reading every car mag. Did my second build during my first university summer.
    Then just had fun driving and doing small mods on each new car while life moved on and we pursued careers, raised 3 kids, built a nice cabin (house, cottage whatever), and did a complete reno on our current home.
    I feel like I have my passion for cars back and am looking forward to the whole planning/learning/build process.

    Now that I started this thread, I'll have to start posting some pics I took.

    The bar that alot of you have set for documenting your builds is pretty high, and I really appreciate the time you took to let us know what you are doing and tips and tricks along the way.
    I haven't seen a forum with such a good community spirit yet.
    I hope I can return the favor for anyone behind me.
    Thanks guys.

  2. #2
    I like that you are taking the lead on revenge spending by claiming your 818 spending is only revenge for all her shoes and purses. I think I'll try that argument when my new wheel$ and tire$ arrive. Wish me a short hospital stay and quick recovery.

    I'm also a guy who built a car as a teenager, worked on a few, and then went a long time dealing with jobs, family and homes only to rediscover wrenching for fun. Now I'm on my second FFR and I can tell you the fun keeps coming. Planning and learning gradually blends into accomplishments and pride as you keep opening the garage door to admire your the latest success. As you progress and learn it's also gratifying to help others on the forum. Most friends will be amazed that you have the knowledge, courage, determination and stupidity to build your own car.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  3. #3
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    Harley-

    Like Pete, I admire your going on the offensive by suggesting you are revenge spending. I tried something similar and didn't have the intended effect. Perhaps you will have some better luck!

    Good luck getting started and enjoy the build.

    Regards,

    Steve

  4. #4
    Hi Guys, thought I would let you in on what I'm planning to build.
    Thanks to Wayne, Metalmaker, Mechie3, Rasmus, Xusia, Honolulu818, Plavan, RM1Sepex, Wallace, Guns, Longisland, Brandon, Bob & Cinci, and others who have contributed to my learning through your threads.....

    I'm not a Subie guy, so I'm hoping the rest of you Subaru guys will chime in if I am off base or if I can improve something.
    I've been following the forum for a while, and found a few threads really helpful.
    Simplifying the EJ was one of the best, along with some info I found on NASOIC from Unibomber.

    I plan to use the 818 mostly for street driving, to work occasionally on good days, and a few Autocross events.
    I will be getting it tuned once it is running to make sure everything works well.
    We have a good Subaru rally shop (Rocket Rally Squamish) located close by, as well as Precision Racing Engines who do Subaru work. The local Subaru Dealers from what I gather.....are terrible.



    I want to build for reliability with about 270 - 300 hp.
    Donor - 2002 Subaru WRX wagon
    Engine - EJ205 (Ed. & corrected)
    Trans - 5MT, Type 2


    * Cobb intake air - (Short one - I am hoping this will fit. Impreza forum says that up to 300 hp this isn't needed, but my donor didn't have any air box
    * New MAF sensor (still need one - donor didnt have one)
    * Intake hose - silicone
    * Intercooler hoses - Mishimoto silicone
    * Radiator - Mishimoto aluminum with OEM fans
    * Zerolift TGV Deletes - phenolic (helps reduce heat to the intake and improves airflow)
    * Throttle body - blocked off coolant lines (helps reduce heat to intake air)
    * remove EVAP system (need to figure this out)
    * no PVC monitor on 02 that I could find - correct?
    * Turbo - stock TD04
    * Uppipe - stock 02 wrx, cat removed, EGT removed (helps airflow and eliminates potential debris going into turbo)
    * New Waterpump -water pump (cast impeller) - 21111AA026
    * Spark plugs – NGK - 2667 BKR7EIX Iridium
    * New Oilpump
    * STI Pan & oil pickup
    * New Gates std Timing belt & idlers
    * Heads - had them decked and valves ground, new exhaust valves/seals
    * Short block - rebuilding myself with new subaru rings, King main bearings and King conn rod bearings
    * Injectors - stock
    * Exedy OEM Clutch & pressureplate

    * 02 fuel pump (probably upgrade it)
    * parallel fuel line mod (need to figure out the stainless steel lines)
    * New type N engine mounts
    * New 06 front aluminum LCA's (SPT)
    * Godspeed rear lateral links
    * Replaced wheel bearings/seals
    * 02 wrx brakes, new pads and rotors
    * Wheels - Not sure yet but I like the Enkei Raijin 18's - same as Erik in gunmetal
    * Tires - not sure yet
    * 02 wiring harness - harley diet removes the following (Im about 2/3 through)

    * doorlocks & rear hatch locks
    * A/C
    * PS
    * rear wiper (wagon)
    * security system
    * power mirrors
    * Airbags
    * retain heated WRX seats
    * retain ABS
    * retain HVAC (don't know if wrx unit will fit but I need a heater and windsheild defog)



    Possible upgrades:


    * Fuel lines - not sure yet - Agency? aeromotive? will clean up the stock lines
    * Exhaust headers - stock or should I go equal length headers (OBX or prosport) - or grimmspeed crosspipe from oakos.com ($195)
    * Transmission - add Cusco or Quaife LSD?
    * 06-07 EJ25 STi oil pan 11109AA151 (need this if I go to headers?)

    * 06-07 EJ25 STi dipstick 11140AA150
    * upgrade fuel pump? walbro 342
    * PVC delete and catch can? or air oil separator (no maintenance?), Perrin AOS?



    * Thanks to all the build threads, Metalmaker, Eric's Flash, Mechie3, Wayne Presley, Wallace18, Xusia, Rasmus, Brando, JeromeS13, longislandwrx, Guns, RMSepex,


    I have been living vicariously through you till now..... my kit comes Tuesday... did I mention that already?
    Last edited by Harley818; 10-06-2014 at 02:48 PM.

  5. #5

  6. #6

  7. #7
    I would also suggest investing in the soft top as the rain in Vancouver sucks. (been there, done that, moved to the interior )

    looking forward to seeing the build progress

    P

  8. #8
    Soft top for sure.... and maybe a hardtop.
    In the early days, with my TR6, I was known to drive around in the winter with the top down...... but that was many years ago.. Now I'll need the heated seats, a heater, and a hardtop would be nice.

  9. #9
    I'm not sure what the rest of you are doing for keeping track of ideas, websites, and information you find as you read all the threads.

    Just thought I would share what works for me.

    I am using Evernote. It is a free download, and is also available as an app for Iphone, Ipad. It probably should have other smart phone apps as well, but I haven't checked that out.
    When I am cruising through the forum or any website, I can quickly clip or copy and paste in to Evernote.
    Just create a new note, label it with engine, trans, air intake or whatever the topic is.
    Evernote also works great as I can take pictures with my Iphone, or Ipad and it adds directly to the note in Evernote.

    The best feature is that you can search all the notes with the search function. Searches the titles as well as content, and brings up all the notes related to your search.
    You can add, delete or change any note and it updates the note.
    Save links, websites etc.

    Works great for me and helps keep stuff available without too much organization.
    I found it invaluable in collecting and accessing all the info.
    Hope this helps someone out there.

  10. #10
    So far after stripping my donor, Ive been cleaning up parts, repainting, and getting ready for the build.

    I had alot of trouble getting the rear suspension apart as my donor was pretty rusted. Had to cut the long bolt connecting the lateral arms in the rear hub, and drill it out, then press the rest out. The 20T press I had didn't budge the rusted bolt in the wheel hub until I drilled it out. I have new bolts now, and I'll be using anti-seize when I put it together.

    I had one front LCA damaged, so decided to buy the new SPT Aluminum ones for $300. Also went for new Godspeed rear lateral links and trailing links. These all come complete with bushings, so I didn't have to deal with ordering new bushings and replacing the old ones.

    I have access to a sandblaster at work, so I've been spending time after work blasting my parts. Cleaned up the rusty parts really well, and now that they are painted they look great.
    Brakes look like new, hubs and spindles all look new.
    I have the new bearings, and will be pressing them in soon.

    I filed the big casting marks on the intake manifold, and sandblasted the intake. Looks great now after painting.

    I'll post some pictures in the next couple days.

  11. #11
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Your build plan sounds killer...........should be quite stout!
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    67 427 Cobra
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    All toys still in the Scuderia!


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  12. #12
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    In the early days, with my TR6, I was known to drive around in the winter with the top down...... but that was many years ago.
    Wow... that brings back memories. I grew up in New England and my best friend and I both learned to drive on hand-me-down sports cars form our Dads. I had a 74 2002, he had a TR6. We drove with the top down almost year round with the 'heater' on full blast... toes burning, head freezing.

    Good luck with the build!

  13. #13
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    Since you're not a Subaru guy, I'd like to point out that the EJ207 engine comes in non-US STi's (Japan, etc). The EJ205 engine came in 2002-2005 WRX's sold in North America, so unless you've sourced a different engine or your wagon has an engine swap, you have a 205, not 207. Even though they're both 2 liter turbo engines, there are very significant differences. Plenty of info is out there if you're not up to speed on them.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Evan78 View Post
    Since you're not a Subaru guy, I'd like to point out that the EJ207 engine comes in non-US STi's (Japan, etc). The EJ205 engine came in 2002-2005 WRX's sold in North America, so unless you've sourced a different engine or your wagon has an engine swap, you have a 205, not 207. Even though they're both 2 liter turbo engines, there are very significant differences. Plenty of info is out there if you're not up to speed on them.
    Thanks Evan78, I knew I had a USDM 2 liter, but didn't know that it was an EJ205. Good to know.

  15. #15
    PICKED UP MY 818 TODAY!!!!!!

    Another 818S Safely home and stowed in the garage!
    Went to the US/Canada border yesterday with my trailer to pick up the car from Stewart Transport.
    Everything went without a hitch.
    Stewart Transport there in the predetermined parking lot.
    20 mins later it was loaded in my trailer, and I was on the way.
    I had all my import papers ready at the border, but all they wanted was my money for taxes..... sailed right through courtesy of VISA.
    Had it home and in my garage a couple hours later.

    Unfortunately I had to take all the panels off the car to roll it off the trailer since the tailgate was too narrow. No problem, I had to take them off anyways to store them hanging off the ceiling.

    IMG_0660.jpg

  16. #16
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    Congratulations!

    Now the real fun begins.

  17. #17
    After the audit, looks like i'm only short front upper ball joints, headlights, and radiator kit.
    Could be worse, although i am starting with suspension... so I need the balljoints.

    Quality of the product looks good.
    Got all my wheel bearings pressed in yesterday. Reviewed all the bolts and ordered extra bolts for the suspension connections.
    Should be able to start putting it all together soon.

    in the meantime, I was putting together my engine.
    got the Block cleaned and decked, heads cleaned and decked, valves ground and adjusted......
    Put the new connecting rod bearings in, bolted up to the crank, put the block together...... started loading the piston rings on the pistons....
    The size Somerset Subaru sent me was 0.030 oversize..... didn't fit.
    Then went to put the new STI oil pan on with the new oil pickup..... didnt fit.

    Sent them back.... now waiting for new parts.....
    hope this isn't an inkling of what is to come.

    Oh well, I guess I can work on something else in the meantime. Clean up a few more parts... take a week off, fix the dryer (squeeking).......LOL

  18. #18
    Front spindles and hubs cleaned and sandblasted.
    Intake sandblasted.
    Working on rear spindles...

    Found a pipe just the right size to allow press in of new bearing without damaging the rollers.

    Heads and block just decked and back from the engine shop. Valves all adjusted with new exhaust valves.

    Made a special press tool using old bearing to press new bearing in - I'll post a picture next time.

    /Users/harleyensing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2014/06/27/20140627-225708/photo.jpg
    /Users/harleyensing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2014/06/27/20140627-225718/photo.jpg

    /Users/harleyensing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2014/06/27/20140627-225727/photo.jpg
    /Users/harleyensing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2014/06/27/20140627-225734/photo.jpg
    /Users/harleyensing/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Previews/2014/06/27/20140627-225740/photo.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Harley818; 10-06-2014 at 02:54 PM.

  19. #19
    whoops...last picture upload didn't work.

    Last post shows
    1 -sandblasted parts ready for paint. Intake, and front spindles.
    2 - front spindles sandblasted
    3 pressing in the new wheel lugs from Touge factory. Went the Mechie method. Not as long as ARP
    4 - Heads ready for install with freshly decked surfaces and new valves ground and adjusted.
    5 -Block ready for assembly.
    6 - Cylinders ready
    7 - kit arrives
    8 - Found a pipe just the right size to support the bearings when pressing in the wheel hub.

  20. #20
    photo.jpg
    1 - setting up ready for press
    2 - wheel hub ready in position to press
    3 - Pressed in and ready for installation
    4 - special press tool. I used the old bearing, cut slots in it, and ground down the outer diameter. I used this to press in the new bearing to fully seat it at the stop ring. With the cuts and ground down relief, it easily was removable.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    PICKED UP MY 818 TODAY!!!!!!

    Another 818S Safely home and stowed in the garage!

    IMG_0660.jpg
    Very cool. I saw your kit, as the truck you met up with was coming from dropping off my kit in Oregon. Super nice driver and he got my car delivered right on time. As everyone says, now the fun starts!

    Jeff

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    in the meantime, I was putting together my engine.
    got the Block cleaned and decked, heads cleaned and decked, valves ground and adjusted......
    Put the new connecting rod bearings in, bolted up to the crank, put the block together...... started loading the piston rings on the pistons....
    How did your crank and case journals end up measuring out? Did STD bearings give you the right clearance? It seems in most of the 'used' blocks I have measured the #1 and #5 case journals are tighter then the middle ones. New crank or the original one? I usually shoot for .0015 on the mains and .0020 on the rods, but it does depend on your application, oil type, etc.

    Jeff

  23. #23
    Maybe I am taking it a bit too lax but I am using the original rods, pistons and crank.
    Bought standard rings, bearings and installed them without checking the clearances.
    I've done this before with other Ford engines. Do I need to be worried about Subaru tolerances?
    I'm not planning to run wild horsepower.

  24. #24
    Updating from post #20, I didn't have a picture at the time.
    For pressing in the new wheel bearings, I made a press tool from the old bearing outer race.
    I just cut down the sides, and ground a bit off the outer diameter so that when I pressed in the new bearing fully, then I could still remove the old race without much trouble.
    Hope this helps... it worked pretty easily and only took about 5 mins to make it.
    photo.jpg

  25. #25
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    Maybe I am taking it a bit too lax but I am using the original rods, pistons and crank.
    Bought standard rings, bearings and installed them without checking the clearances.
    I've done this before with other Ford engines. Do I need to be worried about Subaru tolerances?
    I'm not planning to run wild horsepower.
    I did pretty much did the same thing, I used King STD bearings they were much cheaper than OEM. I did clearance test with plastigage I also had the big ends on the rods resized. I have built a lot of engines but this is my first Subaru, didn't like it much. What I thought was strange was they use different size pistons from bore to bore sometimes.

  26. #26
    They size the pistons to the bore in the factory to get the best fit. The block itself will be stamped on the top with a combination of A/B (C?). That denotes the actual bore size.
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  27. #27
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Everything has a tolerance, if it's within clearance tolerance, it should be ok, but at the top of the ring gap tolerance ( bigger gaps) you will get greater blowby etc. Turbo engines need to be put together within tighter tolerances to run correctly. You guys should be ok if you fell within the specs. I always check it three to four times myself and than bring to a machine shop and have them do the same and accomplish any machining needed. Heads, block halls for flatness, valve seating and bench flow tested. These engines tend to wear the walls oval overtime. Most engines I have seen with miles on em need a re-bore and hone and pistons and rings to match, just my two cents.
    Last edited by metalmaker12; 07-10-2014 at 10:47 AM.

  28. #28
    OK, thanks guys, I had a good machine shop check out the block and plane the block and heads. All looked good.
    I'm putting the same pistons back in the original cylinder, so they should be good for A, B, C sizing.

  29. #29
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
    OK, thanks guys, I had a good machine shop check out the block and plane the block and heads. All looked good.
    I'm putting the same pistons back in the original cylinder, so they should be good for A, B, C sizing.
    Nice, happy building man

  30. #30
    Time for an update.... other projects are getting in the way.... hot tub rebuild, bathroom reno, son's out of town baseball tournaments down to Seattle.....

    Fit in a little time here and there to get some things done.
    Engine: Piston rings came in so now I have the short block complete. Now added waterpump, oil pump and new STI oilpan and pick-up. Ready to start adding TGV deletes and intake.....

    Suspension: put one side together to make sure it all fits. I bought lateral links off ebay and have had to grind the width of the connections down to fit the frame. Other than that, once I got the correct bolts figured out, it just fit together nicely.

    photo 3.JPGphoto 4.JPGphoto 1.JPG

    Sponaugle - was it you who was asking about the fit at the top of the rear shock with the spacers? I do not have any gaps. I measured the width of all the spacers and labelled them. When I used the correct spacers in the correct locations, they fit perfect....slightly tight to slide in.

    Now that I have all the bugs worked out on the drivers side, I can go at the passenger side with my son (hard to keep their attention for long so it pays to work out the details in advance!) Then its on to sheet metal.
    We have a pneumatic riveter at work that I plan to borrow. Works like a champ. Had to buy a compressor for the garage now to make that work, but I'm sure it will be handy for other tasks.

  31. #31
    Don't know if this is helpful to any of you but I was looking for a list of the gaskets in the 2002 Subaru Engine Gasket Kit.
    I finally tracked one down.
    gasket set pic.jpg

  32. #32
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    A bit after the fact but the name plate identifies the engine. Mine is a 2004 JDM WRX sedan and has a EJ205 engine.nameplate (Small).jpg

  33. #33
    Where is the name plate located? I don't see one on my engine, and I don't have the donor.

    Also, if any subaru guy can help......
    I am torquing my heads and following the manual.
    It says the following:
    Torque to 22 ft. lb in alpha sequence
    Then torque to 55 ft. lb.
    Then back off 180 degrees
    back off another 180 degrees (at this point they are totally loose - no torque left)
    Then torque A and B to 24 ft. lb
    and torque C, D, E, F to 11 ft. lb
    Then torque 90 degrees
    Then torque 90 degrees further making sure not to go over total 180 degrees.
    OK, now they are all torqued somewhere around 50 - 60 ft. lb.

    why back them off till they are basically loose, then basically snug them up (11 ft. lb) and add 90 + 90?

    Am I doing it correct?
    Just want to confirm before I add all the rest......

    Thanks

  34. #34
    That is correct. It makes sure the head is seated right, then relaxes it to ensure no bolts are binding.
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  35. #35
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    I thought that was funny as well, but it makes sense I guess. I didn't like the final torque, I thought it felt too light. I may regret it but I went a little more.

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    I thought that was funny as well, but it makes sense I guess. I didn't like the final torque, I thought it felt too light. I may regret it but I went a little more.
    If you're reusing head bolts, it's possible that they are stretched. They get easier to turn as they neck down.

  37. #37
    Gettin a few things together in the last few days.

    Got another side of the suspension together. Went well with my son helping.
    Also got a good portion of the engine together. Starting to look good.

    photo 2.JPGphoto 3.JPGphoto 4.JPG
    Got the new TGV deletes installed..... Orings sealing looks good.
    Timing belt and pullies are next.

    Thinking I'm not going to do the parallel fuel rail mod. I read somewhere in Nasoic that you need to do a special tune for the differential due to distance to the opposite cylinders. Given that its not going to add any HP may as well stick to the stock set up.
    Most guys think the fuel starving of one cylinder is false as well.

  38. #38
    I'm almost finished my engine rebuild and came across these bolts on my workbench.
    I used a template for the blocks bolting the block together, so I know these are not from the block.

    sm.JPG
    Not sure what they are for. Any of you Subaru guys know?
    They are 110mm long with a fairly short thread section.
    Thanks

  39. #39
    transmission mounting bolts?

  40. #40
    That would be my guess as well though usually there are 2 long ones and 3 shorter ones.
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