Fender Supports, Zero Decibel Motorsports

[Mechie3]

Zero Decibel Motorsports Fender Supports






What:
A fender support for those with earlier frames that don't have built in supports (confirmed chassis #44 needs these, don't know cutoff point).

Why:
FFR has three different variations on the portion of the frame that supports the hood pins near the windshield. The third version has properly located hood pin mounts and a little bracket to bolt the fender to (you don't need this product). The first and second version don't have anything to support the fender. It only gets supported at the front bumper and on the bottom by the sideskirt. The top is unsupported. This lets you hard mount the fender and keep nice panel gaps and prevent excessive vibration. Type 1's also have a separate hood pin mounting plate supplied by FFR.

These supports bolt to the frame and tuck under the fender. Two small screws at the top secure the lip of the fender to the flat surface (hidden by the hood when installed).


Cost:
$32

Shipping
Cheapest is the $5.80 flat rate box. The coolant bracket, ABS plates, the radiator plate brackets, and these can all fit in one flate rate box (save on shipping).

Includes
2 laser cut, machined, and tumbled aluminum brackets
2 machined aluminum standoffs
All stainless steel bolts and washers

*Side Note:
I need to know what kind of frame you have. Type 1 and type 2 have slightly different standoffs. Type 3's don't need this (as much as I'd love for you to just send me money, I'd feel bad selling you things you don't need).

Type 1:


Type 2:


Type 3:

[AZPete]

Craig, I'll need those fender supports but I'm not there yet. I have chassis #25 that I think has the Type 1 configuration. I sent you a photo in a PM that might be useful to you since you are missing a photo in your post. (Yes, I know I'm slow but I'm enjoying the build too much to hurry. I'm getting close to go-kart in 110 degree heat!)
Pete

[RM1SepEx]

No type one photo but you have a type 1 frame! I would take a photo for you but the standoffs that I have from you are not as "clean" as your final design...

[Mechie3]

Uploaded a type 1 thanks to AZpete. Type 2 is from C. Plavan.

[65 Cobra Dude]

Craig,

I'll take a set for type 2 chassis.

Henry

[Mechie3]

Got it. It will ship out tonight.

Based upon Wleehendricks #52 chassis, those with chassis #52 and up don't need these. YMMV so double check (if you like) but if you're wondering and haven't had a chance to look, you're more than likely good to go.

[65 Cobra Dude]

Craig,

Unfortunately, I am 6500 miles away from the car in beautiful Afghanistan :>) Pretty sure I have type 2. Paypal just sent.

Thx,

Henry

[Quiny]

My frame is 116 and I have type 3

[Mechie3]

Thanks Quiny.

Here are a few CAD pictures to show how these go together.

Type 1:

FFR should have supplied you with a non-symmetric boomerang shaped piece that has two 1/2" holes and a smaller hole. The 1/2" hole closer to the small hole lines up with the 1/2" hole on the frame. Make the long edge of the boomerange point inwards perpendicular to the central axis of the car. The standoff has a small step on one end that keys into the 1/2" hole on both the boomerang and the frame. The small hole is used to rivet the boomerang to the frame and prevent it from rotating. Insert the hex head 3/8" bolt from the bottom. Line up the fender with the top triangular piece. The edge of the fender and the long edge of the triangle with the two threaded holes should be flush. Mark the two holes in the fender, drill a .196" hole (or close) to clear the 10-32 screws.



Red= Standoff
Green= Frame
Blue = boomerang
Note order of stacking


Type 2:
Type 2 frames don't get (or need) the boomerang shaped piece as the hood pin location is already correct. Type 2 standoffs are straight with no shoulder as there is no hole to key into. Users will need to drill a .375" hole into the frame where they want the standoff to be. I suggest test fitting first by clamping the triangle piece to the fender and seeing where the standoff falls before making permanent holes. Bolt the standoff to the frame using the 3/8" hex head bolt and line up the triangle piece with the fender just like type 1's.

The hole the dotted line passes through is a user driller hole. Location shown in model is approximate.

[Mechie3]

This picture shows how the two 10-32 screws line up with the edge. The triangular piece is not visible from a top down view. I had to stretch my fenders outward to line up. Pulling them out also gave me proper gaps for my hood. Without pulling the top of the fender outwards there wasn't enough room for the hood to fit.

[ehansen007]

Bingo! Thanks Craig! Totally appreciate it

[AZPete]

Craig, I've started mounting body parts so I need the Zero Decibel fender supports - type 1. I should have ordered these before and now I hope you still have a pair for my #25 frame (the type 1 above). I should PayPal to _____.
Thanks!
Pete

[Mechie3]

I've still got a couple of pieces left. You can paypal me at zerodbmotorsports at gmail

[Mechie3]

Pete, yours should have shown up Monday I think. I have 2 sets left. Once these two are gone I won't be making anymore as the total number of people that need this is limited due to FFR updating their chassis. Once these two are sold out though, I won't have any problem sharing the dimensions in case a few people end up needing these or something similar.

[AZPete]

Yes, they arrived on Monday. They fit perfectly and look very professional, though nobody will see the Zero Decibel fender braces once I get the hood on. I haven't been able to spend much time on the 818 but I've been prepping and fitting the front bumper, headlights and fenders, but still not done with that. One of the thin fiberglass pieces that holds the back of the headlight bucket was starting to crack so I added an aluminum backer to it, and the other side, too. Now waiting for some plastic edging on the brown truck before I cut the front vents, and then hopefully complete the front bumper install and attach the fenders to the fender braces.
Thanks!!

[freds]

Craig, your fender supports really helped to make the fender mounting go well. I've just completed the front of my 818S.
Thanks
fred

front 2.jpg