30 Day 818R Build Progress Report

[apexanimal]

door cutouts are good as well... should help with rad flow...

[JeromeS13]

Last challenge on the list seems to be getting the alternator working. A new one is minutes away.

Since you're not using the OEM gauge cluster, don't forget to install a jumper in place of the BATTERY light. Without that, it will not provide exciter voltage to the internal regulator.

[svanlare]

Unfortunately I learned that same lesson after going through a series of alternators on a track car. Who knew the light on he dash was needed and not just informational...

[metros]

Good luck fellas! Looking forward to hearing how everything goes.

[skullandbones]

Don't know who came up with the door indent but that was genius! Form and function: hard to beat! Good luck on the track.

WEK.

[Sgt.Gator]

Since you're not using the OEM gauge cluster, don't forget to install a jumper in place of the BATTERY light. Without that, it will not provide exciter voltage to the internal regulator.

JeromeS13 and svanlare: Could you explain more fully what needs to be done?
Thanks!

[Jim Schenck]

The "one more thing" was the door vents. We didn't get tons of time on the red car but John's feedback was that it has noticeably more grip than the blue one, with pretty much the same set-up and tires, so thats a good sign that the aero stuff is working. Also the roll bar on the red car is the stock height, blue car was a prototype and was lower.

[JeromeS13]

JeromeS13 and svanlare: Could you explain more fully what needs to be done?
Thanks!

If you're not running the OEM gauge cluster, you'll need to install a jumper between pins C7 (i11) and B1 (i10) of the plugs (this is for an '06 WRX, so yours may be different). If you do not have this 12v+ going to the alternator when the ignition is on, the alternator will not charge the system.

[svanlare]

We run a 300Z and when I pulled the dash, we started going through alternators (not every weekend, but often enough that we knew there was a problem). Once we figured out what the problem was, that the charge light was how the +12 Ignition voltage got to the alternator to establish the field, I added a simple incandescent light to the dash http://...Incandescent-Indicator-Lights and the problem has been solved for the last 10 races or so. Originally I tried just jumping up to +12 IGN, but the alternator would squeal once I did that, so I'm assuming it wants a small amount of resistance between the field and the output so that it can float a little.



-Steve

[C.Plavan]

The "one more thing" was the door vents. We didn't get tons of time on the red car but John's feedback was that it has noticeably more grip than the blue one, with pretty much the same set-up and tires, so thats a good sign that the aero stuff is working. Also the roll bar on the red car is the stock height, blue car was a prototype and was lower.

Jim,

Any plans or time frame on offering these aero parts? The body on my 818R is starting to go on. First race is scheduled in Oct with NASA. I will be testing a lot before then

[Jim Schenck]

My thought in making them was to offer them, same goes for the canards. Ultimately I would like anyone to be able to replicate the car we built if they want and then share set-up data back and forth as I think that is what really gets the car to the next level track time wise.
If people want them please speak up and I can get them into production, if not I can probably at least get a few sets done.

FYI this is the set-up we used:

Front:
Ride Height 3.25 inches
Toe: 1/16 inch total toe in
Camber: -2.5 degrees (had to trim the upper arm just a bit to get this much)
Caster: +3.5 degrees (manual steering, although we are going to test power with 5-6 degrees next time)
Production "R" springs and shocks
No sway bar but also may test the bar again to see if we like it at the higher speed tracks

Rear:
Ride Height: 3.5 inches
Toe: 1/4 inch total toe in
Camber: -3.0 degrees
Roll steer set at zero (both lower links parallel)

Suspension and Brake Components:
2006 aluminum front lowers with Beatrush heim joint Anti-lift kit
Whiteline poly bushings on front lower arm and rear trailing arm at spindle
Adjustable rod end lower transverse links (all 4 rears)
Rod end adjustable lower trailing arms
Wilwood 13 inch front brakes
Wilwood 12 inch rear brakes
Rota Torque 17 front and 18 rear wheels
Yokohama Advan Slicks 210 front and 240 rear

[C.Plavan]

My thought in making them was to offer them, same goes for the canards. Ultimately I would like anyone to be able to replicate the car we built if they want and then share set-up data back and forth as I think that is what really gets the car to the next level track time wise.
If people want them please speak up and I can get them into production, if not I can probably at least get a few sets done.

FYI this is the set-up we used:

Front:
Ride Height 3.25 inches
Toe: 1/16 inch total toe in
Camber: -2.5 degrees (had to trim the upper arm just a bit to get this much)
Caster: +3.5 degrees (manual steering, although we are going to test power with 5-6 degrees next time)
Production "R" springs and shocks
No sway bar but also may test the bar again to see if we like it at the higher speed tracks

Rear:
Ride Height: 3.5 inches
Toe: 1/4 inch total toe in
Camber: -3.0 degrees
Roll steer set at zero (both lower links parallel)

Suspension and Brake Components:
2006 aluminum front lowers with Beatrush heim joint Anti-lift kit
Whiteline poly bushings on front lower arm and rear trailing arm at spindle
Adjustable rod end lower transverse links (all 4 rears)
Rod end adjustable lower trailing arms
Wilwood 13 inch front brakes
Wilwood 12 inch rear brakes
Rota Torque 17 front and 18 rear wheels
Yokohama Advan Slicks 210 front and 240 rear

Thanks-
Put me down for the canards and door vents. I don't mind testing the out. I already planned on extending the front splitter like you have done. Any idea when these could be ready? I'm installing the side intrusion sheet right now (1/8" 7075 T6 aluminum I made up).

[drdracing]

Put me down for canards and door vents as well. Drd racing

[projectrally]

Door vents and canards for me too, Jim.

[DodgyTim]

Door vents and canards for me too, thanks.

[FFR-ADV]

Jim,

The door cutouts look great! Could these be done on an 818S? Is Factory Five considering offering an install kit for the APR GT-1000 wings? For both the 818S and 818R?

I look forward to seeing your wind tunnel test results and the performance on the track. This is going to be an awesome car!

[metalmaker12]

Door cut outs and canards for me, they look killer!!! Good job FFR, now go put the built engine in, test it on the road and have at it guys. Prove to the world the 818 means business.

[metros]

I would be interested in the canards and door cut outs down the road. I'm nowhere close to body work yet and need to focus the budget elsewhere right now.

Any data on where the r shocks were set to?

[Sgt.Gator]

Thanks JeromeS13 and svanlare. This helps, I have an AIM dash and have been wondering if my charging system is working correctly.

[Jim Schenck]

Shocks on the R were set on the softest setting, the last track we did the testing had some rough spots that gave us a little bit of hop on the next 2 clicks up but at VIR we might have been able to run a little stiffer given some time to test there. (UTCC is just a one day event)

I don't think the door vents would be an easy fit to an "S", they cut right through where the hinges go.

Also when we added the canards to the blue car, between Lime Rock and VIR, we did pick up some oversteer. For anyone planning on adding both of these to the front you will have to run a fairly aggressive rear wing, The red car has the APR GT1000 but they made it for us in a 67 in. length which they have but don't list on their website. We also extended the rear diffuser further out the back of the red car by sliding it up and out and putting an aluminum patch panel in the gap where it no longer reached the old floor. It didn't fit the body perfect anymore but still didn't look bad and helped give us about 3 inches extra tunnel.

[apexanimal]

so 3" out for the diffuser... how many inches out for the splitter?

(i feel like i read it somewhere but can't find it now...)

[Jim Schenck]

Splitter was 4-1/2 inches out from the nose in total, so about an extra inch from standard. With that extra length we felt like we needed the added supports as well.

[bbjones121]

Canards and vents for me!

[Brando]

Door vents and Canards for me

[Brando]

Also when we added the canards to the blue car, between Lime Rock and VIR, we did pick up some oversteer. For anyone planning on adding both of these to the front you will have to run a fairly aggressive rear wing, The red car has the APR GT1000 but they made it for us in a 67 in. length which they have but don't list on their website..

Hi Jim. Currently i'm running the splitter (extended forward) & diffuser tucked in. I'm running R6's and a GTC-300 @ 2AOA and it seems balanced.
At 100mph adding the 10 degrees give you 25% more downforce.

0AOA:
80mph - 151lb
100mph - 238lb
120mph - 345lb

5AOA
80mph - 184lb
100mph - 290lb
120mph - 420lb

10AOA
80mph - 202lb
100mph - 317lb
120mph - 459lb

Do think the GTC-300 with a 10AOA be sufficient to balance the canards or is the CTC-500/GT-1000 going to be needed?
On the door vents, will we need to completely remove the splash guard for it to vent?

[FFR-ADV]

I don't think the door vents would be an easy fit to an "S", they cut right through where the hinges go.

Thanks Jim,

Starring at my frame I see what you mean. It is mighty close between the hinges. Of course the advantage of the doors is when we (hopefully) get a hardtop. It would be nice to do as much as we can for the S. Most of us want as much of a plated race car "R" as we can get even in the S. Creating an SR as it were.

Thanks again for all you and the FFR 818 team have done.

[Jim Schenck]

Brando,

We have the wing at 4.5 degrees on the blue car so there is still room for adjustment. I think you will be fine by just adding canards and adjusting accordingly.

[FFRSpec72]

Jim, do the door cutouts come in past the side cage bars as I have steel intrusion panels in place now. If the answer is no then the I would take door cutouts and canards

[Jim Schenck]

The door vents leave about an inch of the door intact across the front so they are offset about that distance out from the roll cage, should be no problem with anti-intrusion plates.

[Canadian818]

Canards please!

[Doowop]

Ducks (which mean Canards in French) and door vents for sure. Thanks

[ssssly]

My thought in making them was to offer them, same goes for the canards. Ultimately I would like anyone to be able to replicate the car we built if they want and then share set-up data back and forth as I think that is what really gets the car to the next level track time wise.
If people want them please speak up and I can get them into production, if not I can probably at least get a few sets done.

FYI this is the set-up we used:

Front:
Ride Height 3.25 inches
Toe: 1/16 inch total toe in
Camber: -2.5 degrees (had to trim the upper arm just a bit to get this much)
Caster: +3.5 degrees (manual steering, although we are going to test power with 5-6 degrees next time)
Production "R" springs and shocks
No sway bar but also may test the bar again to see if we like it at the higher speed tracks

Rear:
Ride Height: 3.5 inches
Toe: 1/4 inch total toe in
Camber: -3.0 degrees
Roll steer set at zero (both lower links parallel)

Suspension and Brake Components:
2006 aluminum front lowers with Beatrush heim joint Anti-lift kit
Whiteline poly bushings on front lower arm and rear trailing arm at spindle
Adjustable rod end lower transverse links (all 4 rears)
Rod end adjustable lower trailing arms
Wilwood 13 inch front brakes
Wilwood 12 inch rear brakes
Rota Torque 17 front and 18 rear wheels
Yokohama Advan Slicks 210 front and 240 rear

What are the width and offset of the wheels?

[Brando]

Hi Jim. It seems like the canards & vent counts have slowed down.
Based on the responses do you see them becoming a production item or will you be making them per order?

I know a few of us are really interested in getting our hands on these.

EDIT: I was also curious if you have you considered adding vortex generators to compliment the canards?

Thanks for sharing the R&D and hope to reciprocate the efforts.

[Jim Schenck]

That was enough yes's for me to go ahead with running it past everyone involved here and make sure there are no objections, although I do not forsee any. There is a little work to do on the Canard mold since it was single sided and I think needs to be a two peice (sandwhich) for a part that is so visible on the top and bottom.

[Jim Schenck]

Canards and Door exit ducts are available now, $199 for the canards in carbon and $129 for the ducts in black ge-coat fiberglass.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Canards and Door exit ducts are available now, $199 for the canards in carbon and $129 for the ducts in black ge-coat fiberglass.

Thanks Jim,
Am I correct in saying the door vent are only for the 818R?
Bob

[Joe Scott]

Bob, yes door vents for R only, will not fit with frame-work

Joe@FFRTECH

[D Clary]

any chance of the headlight blockoffs?

[bbjones121]

Could the frame be modified by someone who could creatively weld to make vents work on 818S?

[Doowop]

I see the canards on the website, but not the door vents. do We just need to call them? What are the required mods to put the vents in, besides cutting the door to put them in. I mean, the door mounting is different? any pics?