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Thread: 37 Degrees South - RHD 818S build thread

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmaker12 View Post
    The tire pressure for driving should be much lower, just throwing it out there if you have not heard or known. 19-20psi front and 21-24psi rear
    That PSI seems very low. Is it because the car weighs so little?
    Is it specified somewhere by FFR? Or based on some pyrometer readings after driving for a while??

  2. #42
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Thanks,
    The guys that setup the suspension geometry are pure race car enthusiasts - they certainly know what they are doing. I did question the pressure they used, and they replied that higher pressures are more even and consistent for side wall height in the tyre. This enables/helps them to get all four corners even..
    Certainly after the alignment and next weeks tune, we will decrease the pressure a little - 19-20 however seams lower than the manufacturer (tyre) recommends? I would be a little concerned at the tyres moving side to side on the rims. I guess trial and error will determine best for grip and stability?

  3. #43
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    With my experience with tire pressures in this car (on street tires at the track), I've found that 16 psi front and 20 psi in the rear (hot) is about right. This is with my Federal 595 RS-R in 235/40/17 and 265/35/18.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
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    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  4. #44
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Hey crew, Ive just spent a week away working in Italy. Just prior to departure I delivered my car to a local tuning shop whom specialise in Motec ECU. I called the shop today from Munich (homeward bound) and they advised that following a couple of days comprehensive setup on Dyno - setting up, fuel pressure, boost, CAM control, ignition and mixtures they are happy with the very soft tune I requested. 13-16 PSI 247-260Kw at RW. Cold start, idle and deceleration all good:-) I haven't seen finished numbers yet, but 247 @ 13PSI (331RWHP) for complete street car is nice. This is a very soft tune for Motec and JDM 2.5 subaru. It is more than I wanted prior to registration and compliance. Following compliance I will change turbo add AWIC and retune (aiming for 320Kw). Can't wait to get home and go-kart again!

  5. #45
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeromeS13 View Post
    With my experience with tire pressures in this car (on street tires at the track), I've found that 16 psi front and 20 psi in the rear (hot) is about right. This is with my Federal 595 RS-R in 235/40/17 and 265/35/18.
    I concur basically the same to the psi
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  6. #46
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    Hi Junty, nice build so far.
    I like your choice for wheels and tires.....just the ones I'm looking at.

    What size tires did you end up going with?
    and are those the XXR 530's?

  7. #47
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Hi Harley, nice to be documenting the first RHD 818. I have to thank Wayne from VCP for these wheels, he is an agent for XXR. So these are 18's rear and 17's front but they are the 527 design. Toyo R888 tyres 215/45/17 front and 255/35/18 rear. A long while ago there was a lot of discussion and a thread specific to 818 wheels and tyres. The 45 profile on the front is a little big - but with the castor adjusting rear lower arm bush there is just enough room with out everything rubbing. I needed the 45 as this closely matches the rear circumference and I am using the WRX ABS system. My only criticism of the XXR wheel is the 10 hole multi fit stud pattern, I would ideally like just the 5 x 100.

  8. #48
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    RHD body started

    Hey team, Just a few recent updates. Since getting car back from alignment and tuning(dyno). Ive start the very daunting process of body and panel assembly. I say daunting - my general assumption, mechanical and electrical (including suspension) is my forte and is scientific. A + B = C. However the body is certainly not my forte and I liken it to more of an art. A bit here moves everything... Why does a trim here result in ??? over there...
    So I started this process by spending lots of time reading others success and posting first. My limited experience has been improved significantly during the past 2-3 weeks sitting in airport lounges (working) drinking a cold beer and studying the forum. Following this i fitted the 2 sides, added aftermarket Suzuki GXR1000 side mirrors, 80% fitted and removed and then refitting maybe 5 times the doors, tail lights, front fenders and front bumper. I had a glass guy help with windscreen installation. And all of a sudden (progress results here seem quick) its looking more finished, or more like an 818 rather than go-cart.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #49
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Body is Art, mechanical is more science...

    I should reiterate, A + B = C, but thrashing a musical instrument does not always equal music!

  10. #50
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    I went back and forth on how to handle High Stop Light options and eventually settled on a Hella LED clear system - mounted centrally as high as practical. In NZ we are required to have a high stop light - no less than 850mm from ground. Fortunately for me this appears to just suffice without the need to install a spoiler mounted one.

  11. #51
    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junty View Post
    eventually settled on a Hella LED clear system - mounted centrally as high as practical. In NZ we are required to have a high stop light - no less than 850mm from ground. Fortunately for me this appears to just suffice without the need to install a spoiler mounted one.
    Looks good! (since you're required to have one)

  12. #52
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    RHD - FFR not quite there yet...

    Further to the specific documented Brake and Suspension thread about the RHD pedal box variants. Ive now discovered that any of the aluminium cut and folded by FFR is bent the wrong way for RHD vehicles. Specifically the centre console in aluminium - The larger piece that is supposed to angle into the passenger side - angles into the drivers clutch pedal area on a RHD car. For any future RHD kit builders - please ensure FFR is either specifically folding these pieces for the RHD configuration - or order these parts flat pack (unfolded). It is just slightly disappointing that these things were not configured correctly - especially as we do pay a premium for RHD kits!
    I first took the folded pieces to a local aluminium fabricator - hoping that they could roll them flat and fold them back the alternative way - however the alluvium as I suspected cracked along the folds, so I had to manufacture new pieces and fold them the correct way. Attached is the new RHD console - with the FFR one cracked and flat on the floor.
    Newcentreconsole.JPG

  13. #53
    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    I really like the center brake light. Where did you get it?

  14. #54
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Purchased from a local Hella agent.

    LED Centre High Mount Stop Lamp - Clear Lens 12V
    PART NO: 5243-CLEAR

    Hella has a local NZ based manufacturing facility. Not sure if this is local or international part - search eBay for the part number. It is designed and specified for mounting into boot lid spoilers.

  15. #55
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    I think most of my stuff said 6061 on the panels. It doesn't like to bend sharp angles or bend more than once. They can get away with it since it's such thin material and they only bend once. 5052 is much more pliable.
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  16. #56
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Happy 2015 to all. Sorry for slow build progress, although we are enjoying our beautiful warm summer (perfect for 818 building), Ive been enjoying family summer holiday at the beach. I still don't have wife approval for any of my 818 - so when she wants to spend family time at the beach I don't have any room for argument. So on Tuesday I finally managed to sneak home (100miles) on the understanding that I had some real work to do... However I've also managed to spend the last 36hours in-between to install the dash, centre console, door panels and manufacture a wiper assembly which is required for NZ compliance. Ive also installed the FFR K-Tuned shifter - the inside is starting to look really nice. The dash, console and shifter have started to make it all feel like a real car!
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  17. #57
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Front headlamps

    Well today I re-examined the whole process of headlamp installation. Earlier this week I spent a lot of time trimming the buckets (plastic) and getting the lamps to sit within them correctly. Then ensuring that the buckets are sitting correctly within the front bumper assembly - however once this is moved to the chassis and the fenders are attached everything moves
    So - this afternoon my 'kiwi ingenuity' got to work. First I installed the buckets (now already trimmed) into the bumper assembly on the ground. There is a little force required to ensure that the front edge remains onto of the bumper - so 100 mile an hour tape was used to hold this together. I then flipped the assembly upside down and applied resin and mesh (fibreglass) to firmly secure the buckets from beneath to the bumper.
    Thus far (prior) - every time I assemble the headlamps and front sections together - the tension releases at the edge of the bumper with the buckets - they end up underneath the front edge with a huge 1/4 gaps outside the edge of the lamps
    I trust and hope that when I attempt re-installation next week, my glassing the inside will provide sufficient strength to the system to allow a good even look to the whole front? I'll post pictures once I know it works

  18. #58
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Success

    Well, following my last post, I successfully glassed (adhered) the outside edge of my plastic headlamp buckets to the front bumper. Following the instructions - the front lip is just over the bumper edge!
    Once they were set and secured by glassing the structure from behind, I reinstalled the front bumper assembly and started to test fit the headlamps. It is certainly much easier now - as my buckets are secure
    I then got quite aggressive with the saw - drawing a line in the bottom of the bucket (behind the rear of the headlamp). Then another right across the front (almost at the top of the groove) where the front edge of the headlamp sits. After making these marks I cut about 1/2 the bucket out.
    My lamps now sit secure along the front edge - tucked well down and the side and top mounts hold everything secure. I'll post disassembled pictures in a few weeks - once car is back from compliance.
    Attached are a few images of the front fully assembled. I love every aspect of this FFR kit, the finish certainly requires a lot of work to make is look great - because this is beyond my ability, I'm committed to a specialised panel shop tweaking and tightening all the gaps up and then painting the finished car.
    Initial discussion with the compliance engineer has detailed that I'll need to install folding sun visors (I've ordered some early Miata MX5 ones from Ebay. Although I installed a windscreen wiper - I also need a washer - fortunately my VCP loom has clearly labeled wires for this and so Ive ordered a cheap washer motor with hanging fluid bag which I'll secure to the front somewhere..
    Finally, I need to adhere the supplied rear reflectors, aesthetically I was hoping to not require these - but they do need to be added for NZ compliance.
    Some will note from the images - Ive used Quick-latch mini's to secure my hood - I'm awaiting my next shipment to use these for the engine covers also - however the rear will be very temporary - as I desperately want that new hard top. Like many Ive joined the wait, and I'll contend with the box and freight sometime in the middle of the year
    Finally - just prior to the tow truck arriving for transit to compliance centre, I went for another quick blast around the block I tested the hard/heavy braking from about 50m/h and was very pleased to get front left wheel to just start locking. I have no bias installed, and I have full ABS (not powered yet). This confirms discussions I've had in the braking forum, we need bigger rear brakes! Once approved and registered, I'll further investigate installing the same front 4 pot WRX callipers with 300mm Brembo size rear disks - essentially making the front and rear even and equal braking - same as other mid/rear engined sports cars...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Junty; 03-11-2015 at 07:10 PM. Reason: spelling error

  19. #59
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Well - my car has been at the compliance centre now for almost 2 months. It shouldn't take this long - but the engineers have been busy and finally after 2 months my 818 is at the front of their list and ready for compliance next week. I wish I could have kept the car at home whilst waiting, as I could have finished and titivated with lots of work especially getting the body tight and even gaps. Ive arrange to take the completed car to a fibreglass specialist upon completion of the compliance. They will pull and push all the panels, and sand edges down to make the gaps even. As Ive previously said, I'm happy and confident to work on mechanical and electrical - body work is an art and beyond my skills.
    The only significant issue for compliance is the seatbelt anchorage points. The small top tabs are too small for New Zealand compliance, these are subject to significant stress when the belt is loaded, so for NZ we need to cut these off, and weld triangular shape steel into the corner of the roll bar and 2inch steel frame. I'll arrange for a certified welder to weld similar plates to the inner edge of the lower from (supported by the cross frames for seats). These also need to be welded on more than one side/edge. During this process I'm going to arrange to have 7/16 fine nuts welded to the back of each tab - making for easier installation of seatbelt anchor bolts. Upon completion I'll get some pictures - I know lots of people have discussed the seatbelt anchors.
    All going really well, I'll be registered, certified and have plates on before the end of March, great news as 1st April is autumn in NZ and summer driving season is coming to an end (first day of rain since Christmas as Im writing this).

  20. #60
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    Looks great.

  21. #61
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    New Zealand Compliance...
    I shouldn't have presumed that this would be so easy. I have a detailed list of fixes and changes required. Most of the list consists of small mistakes or errors directly attributed to my build skill or lack of. Most are related to suspension bolts that are too short. In NZ any nut/bolt with nylock locking heads will require two full threads exposed beyond the nylock ring. So its a relatively simple process of replacing about 1 dozen bolts for longer ones - ensuring all have the required thread exposed.
    I've had to add seatbelt anchors 3 each side - enabling the seatbelt from the donor to comply. Once again in NZ we require anchors welded on atlas 2 edges and must have a specific surface area.
    The final tow issues are the most significant and a little more difficult to resolve. 1. I had to change the factory engine and transmission mounts to ones that are still going to offer support and hold the engine in the event the rubber separates. I opted for Cusco mount kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cusco-Engine...cc4c36&vxp=mtr I suspect that these will also reduce engine movement changing gears and when on/off the throttle - they are very stiff.
    Finally I'm resolving a bumpsteer issue with the front suspension. My vehicle when setup to FFR specifications has between 15-20 degrees toe when the suspension is at full droop. I appreciate that at droop there is no weight on the wheels, so it is really a dilemma that some people don't believe will cause any safety concern or issue, but unfortunately for me, Compliance within NZ specifies that bumpsteer must be below 5 degrees. So Ive moved the front shock to the R (upper mount) position and pre-loaded the springs to maintain close to 4inch front ground clearance, and I just barely scrape through with 32mm of suspension travel. Ive also added Whiteline tired ends - which similar to the Baer ones lower the rack ends and thus reduce the bumpsteer also. So fingers crossed - next week when I'm back from a quick visit to USA (FFR included) I'll take the 818S RHD back for a final check.

  22. #62
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Nearly there... All the boxes are ticked, i's dotted and t's crossed. I'm now waiting upon Low Volume Vehicle Transport Authority (LVVTA) to approve of all the paperwork, images and issue a certificate of compliance. Then I can organise a Warrant Of Fitness (WOF) and register the car. Finger's crossed this will happen within the next week? I depart for Boston MA again next week, and I would love to again visit FFR with images of a completed, certified and registered car in NZ.

  23. #63
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    The car looks great, look forward to seeing it painted.

  24. #64
    Senior Member DodgyTim's Avatar
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    Brakes 2008 WRX 4 pot front 2 pot rear (eventually adding 4 pot to rear)
    Hey Junty, did you go forward with 4 pot calipers on the rear ?
    I have been given a second set of 4 pots and I'm looking at putting the DBA 42657 (316mm) rotors on the rear as a cheap brake upgrade
    Thoughts?

  25. #65
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Hi Tim,
    I have not made any changes yet.... Still waiting for full and final compliance. However I have had a few test drives, and I definitely want more/better brakes. Logic still entices me to replace rear rotor with front 4 pot and the 316mm rotor's - but testing and mile on the road will give a much better idea of if it is really required? My rotors, pads (everything) is brand new - need to bed everything in before making changes.
    ABS - is fully functioning and working...

  26. #66
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DodgyTim View Post
    Hey Junty, did you go forward with 4 pot calipers on the rear ?
    I have been given a second set of 4 pots and I'm looking at putting the DBA 42657 (316mm) rotors on the rear as a cheap brake upgrade
    Thoughts?
    Tim
    When you go to 4 pots in the rear, are you gaining any braking capability?
    The effective cylinder diameter is the important number in the attached chart.
    What are the diameter of the of the pots in the calipers you are changing to?
    Bob

    br.jpg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  27. #67
    Senior Member DodgyTim's Avatar
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    Thanks Junty, I'll start having a look at this on the weekend and let you know if it looks like working.
    Bob, once I get some of the preliminary measurements/dimensions sorted out I'll post some questions in the brake thread, so we don't hijack Junty's build thread

  28. #68
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Great work Junty! cant wait to hear this thing fire up :-)

    Can you please post some pics and detail about your single wiper system?

    Looks much better than the FFR chop shop option IMO
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  29. #69
    Member Hendow's Avatar
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    Hi Junty,

    Can I take a moment to pick your brains...?!

    I understand you have managed to get the ABS system working in your 818.

    What did you do for front and rear Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS's)?
    Did you use the 2012 donor VDC (ABS) module?
    Does your VDC module feed into the MOTEC ECU?
    How did you get a rear WSS feed into the VDC/ECU?

    I have the 2012 VDC module installed which is required to feed into the ECU and speedo etc, however in order to get this working, I had to retrofit 2012 spindles to the front with the later (blade type) WSS's. These (front) WSS's then had to be plugged into the rear wheel ports on the VDC module, to get the speedo etc to work... My rear spindles currently have no WSS's installed as the 2012 rear spindles are quite different to the GD chassis.

    My understanding is the GD WSS's are not compatible with the later 2012 VDC module, so I cannot figure out how to get an actual rear wheel speed signal to feed into the VDC/ECU.

    This has manifested itself as a problem on the dyno, whereby the ECU (Ecutek) is hitting some sort of fuel/boost/ignition cut under heavy load at about 4500rpm, I suspect because it is sensing the engine to be cranking along under boost, yet the rear wheels do not appear to be moving... (due to the WSS's being on the front, stationary, wheels). On the road I cannot replicate the cut, only on the dyno, which points to the WSS's being the cause. Until my tuner can resolve this cut, I am unable to properly tune the engine/ECU.

    Information is quite limited out there on what speed inputs are fed into the stock ECU, and for what functions, so I am keen to explore your findings, given we have similar setups.

    Any plans to visit the 'West Island'? If so, come over and take the Green Machine for a spin!

    Cheers,

    1912461_1628887267331146_6084269952273165080_o.jpg

  30. #70
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hendow View Post
    Hi Junty,

    Can I take a moment to pick your brains...?!

    I understand you have managed to get the ABS system working in your 818.

    What did you do for front and rear Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS's)?
    Did you use the 2012 donor VDC (ABS) module?
    Does your VDC module feed into the MOTEC ECU?
    How did you get a rear WSS feed into the VDC/ECU?

    I have the 2012 VDC module installed which is required to feed into the ECU and speedo etc, however in order to get this working, I had to retrofit 2012 spindles to the front with the later (blade type) WSS's. These (front) WSS's then had to be plugged into the rear wheel ports on the VDC module, to get the speedo etc to work... My rear spindles currently have no WSS's installed as the 2012 rear spindles are quite different to the GD chassis.

    My understanding is the GD WSS's are not compatible with the later 2012 VDC module, so I cannot figure out how to get an actual rear wheel speed signal to feed into the VDC/ECU.

    This has manifested itself as a problem on the dyno, whereby the ECU (Ecutek) is hitting some sort of fuel/boost/ignition cut under heavy load at about 4500rpm, I suspect because it is sensing the engine to be cranking along under boost, yet the rear wheels do not appear to be moving... (due to the WSS's being on the front, stationary, wheels). On the road I cannot replicate the cut, only on the dyno, which points to the WSS's being the cause. Until my tuner can resolve this cut, I am unable to properly tune the engine/ECU.

    Information is quite limited out there on what speed inputs are fed into the stock ECU, and for what functions, so I am keen to explore your findings, given we have similar setups.

    Any plans to visit the 'West Island'? If so, come over and take the Green Machine for a spin!

    Cheers,

    1912461_1628887267331146_6084269952273165080_o.jpg
    Such a cool pic! Great questions, I watch with great interest
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  31. #71
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    I would love to help, but Im sorry to say that although we have same engines - thats about as far as it goes. I started with a 2004 RX NA impreza as my original donor. So front and rear Hubs, 5 speed gear box, rack, steering column, dash, ABS unit and wheel sensors are all from a much earlier car. The huge benefit for ABS - is these earlier systems are 100% independent of engine ECU. I have now also wired my ABS sensors into the MOTEC M800 - I soon want to upgrade to another ECU option which includes traction control...

  32. #72
    Member Hendow's Avatar
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    Ahh, bugga!

    Oh well, thanks anyway.

    She's back to the tuner again tomorrow, so hopefully it will either be tuned fully, or I can see a MOTEC M800 in my future...

    I believe the M800 has traction control? Is that via an optional module?

  33. #73
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junty View Post
    I would love to help, but Im sorry to say that although we have same engines - thats about as far as it goes. I started with a 2004 RX NA impreza as my original donor. So front and rear Hubs, 5 speed gear box, rack, steering column, dash, ABS unit and wheel sensors are all from a much earlier car. The huge benefit for ABS - is these earlier systems are 100% independent of engine ECU. I have now also wired my ABS sensors into the MOTEC M800 - I soon want to upgrade to another ECU option which includes traction control...
    Keep me posted Justin, I am keen to run traction control also. What are you looking at?
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  34. #74
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Hey guys, I thought originally looking at the specifications that buying a Motec M800 would cover for everything really easy off the shelf. However everything does require an optional (costly) upgrade. Thus far I've had to add 'Drive By Wire' 'Wideband Lambda' and 'Cam Control' as well as buy the optional UTC cables...
    Motec is awesome but costly. The last add-on that I'm looking at is advanced features as a package. This includes the options... traction control, flat shifts and antilag. This is a mere Au$535 - so final package is the most cost reasonable so far!

  35. #75
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Hey guys - RHD update... I had a very unfortunate issue with my 818... broken rings on cylinder 4! Damn!
    So removed engine - relatively easy process after removing under tray and rear bumper, sent engine away for inspection. Ended up replacing all engine bearings (aluminium had scored crank a little), new O/S CP Pistons, rods, full engine clean and gasket set. Then decided to install a Mishimoto oil cooler (with added fans) - this was less expensive than replacing new OEM oil cooler, which likely had gritty deposits inside it? Just last week I completed the assembly and started the car. Whilst apart I opted for some new 1000cc injectors - they standard WRX ones were previously running at 85-90% duty cycle - so increasing the size will allow for more boost and bigger turbo if ever it is needed.
    My 818 was tuned on the dyno today, and I'm very pleased with the 239Kw power @ 12-13PSI on standard VF52 turbo. Attached is the graph.
    Final break down of engine...
    2012 WRX 2.5L
    o/s CP forged pistons
    ARP heavy-duty bolts and head studs
    Forged rods (Cosworth)
    Cheap ex china extractors - these don't hang too low.
    Standard WRX VF52 turbo
    Cusco Engine mounts
    New 2 1/2 inch exhaust no CAT single straight through resonator
    MOTEC M800 ECU with cam control, wideband O2, DBW
    Mishimotor oil cooler
    Mishimoto thermostat (lower opening temp)
    Mishimoto radiator
    Very happy with everything - and very nice power curve (turbo does run out at 6500) but nearly 650NM torque from 3000 RMP
    Attached Images Attached Images

  36. #76
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    RHD 239Kw with near 650NM at 3000 RPM

    Hey all - as advised in previous thread, retuned following engine rebuild and strengthen. 239Kw at 12-13 PSI boost and very near 650NM from 3000 rpm.
    I hijacked another thread about ambient engine bay temperatures and fitting a trunk kit. I've now added a cheap set of extractors, wrapped them very well, wrapped the new up-pipe and wrapped the entire exhaust including resonator. Added a turbo blanket, and cut a duct in centre of engine cover (with shroud) over intercooler. Engine bay temperatures are now low and manageable, the Air to Air intercooler (2012 WRX) with 10inch fan is working very well.
    I cannot stress that wrapping the hot parts of the engine and creating ducts that work changes everything in the 818.F5R8I8 dyno.jpg

  37. #77
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    Wayne Presley's Avatar
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    For those metric challenged, thats 320 HP and 480 TQ.
    Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
    Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos

  38. #78
    Senior Member Flamshackle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junty View Post
    Hey all - as advised in previous thread, retuned following engine rebuild and strengthen. 239Kw at 12-13 PSI boost and very near 650NM from 3000 rpm.
    I hijacked another thread about ambient engine bay temperatures and fitting a trunk kit. I've now added a cheap set of extractors, wrapped them very well, wrapped the new up-pipe and wrapped the entire exhaust including resonator. Added a turbo blanket, and cut a duct in centre of engine cover (with shroud) over intercooler. Engine bay temperatures are now low and manageable, the Air to Air intercooler (2012 WRX) with 10inch fan is working very well.
    I cannot stress that wrapping the hot parts of the engine and creating ducts that work changes everything in the 818.F5R8I8 dyno.jpg
    Great power curve and at relatively low boost levels. Well done Justin :-)
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  39. #79
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    show us pictures of your ducting?
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

  40. #80
    Senior Member Junty's Avatar
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    Rear mounted air/air intercooler working really well

    IMG_4683.jpgIMG_4682.jpgIMG_4680.jpgIMG_4685.jpgHey crew,
    Rather than duct - I opted to open the engine cover. Im happy and confident to undertake mechanical work and electrical - however body and cosmetically I don't have any expertise or knowledge - so at some time I will pay for an expert to tidy the panels and perhaps fabricate a duct/scoop to encourage more air... At this time however this works and for the purpose of fully evaluating the concept, Im very happy with the end results. Please note - I am using a 2012 WRX 2.5L engine with VF52 standard turbo, these late model engines don't have the Y connector under the intercooler and they do have an almost square standard intercooler.

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