37 Degrees South - RHD 818S build thread

[Junty]

Well hello all fellow 818 builders, I can officially say this now as after much anticipation Chassis 131 818S in RHD arrived today. I'd like to take the opportunity to introduce myself and start documenting the first RHD 818 (not the first chassis - but certainly the first RHD build thread).
From the title - I'm based in New Zealand (Aotearoa). Way down here WRX and subaru are a very popular breed - if it wasn't for the freight and distance from FFR, we could certainly build a great kit car for $15K.
So I first ordered my 818 kit - about the same time as SEMA and online orders were first accepted (sept 2012). I had recently purchased a new HP server for business, and about 1 month later I received a monthly newsletter from HP detailing their contribution/collaboration with SolidWorks in developing a new kit car with FFR. This sparked a burning desire/dream/bucket list - I haven't played with cars since I was a teenager - life, work , career and family is often difficult to manage with motor-sport as a hobby! I envy those that do manage it all.
So anyways my 818S dream quickly became a reality. Last year whilst working across the Tasman I purchased a base donor - 2004 RX Imprezza sedan. Always knowing that my 818 would be turbo - I soon added a 2011 2.5L WRX engine (21,000km). These late model engines in Australasia are dual AVCS, VF52 twin scroll turbo and everything in NZ is JDM spec.
Starting spec's for what we hope to do...
• Donor 2004 Subaru WRX sedan (NA 2.0L)
• Brakes 2008 WRX 4 pot front 2 pot rear (eventually adding 4 pot to rear)
• Keeping Subaru ABS - using this for traction control sensors via MoTec M800 ECU
• Lower front aluminum control arms
• Cusco LSD
• XXR 18 x 9 rear 17 x 8 front with Toyo R888 (thanks Wayne VCP)
• VCP rear trailing arms
• New adjustable rear lateral arms
• New CV joints, Boots, Clutch, Brake Pads and Disks, Bearings, Tie rods… (Every thing new)
• Nissan 1.5 x 12mm wheel studs (about 10mm longer than Subaru) and taller pitch thread
• MoTec ECU, with traction control, cruise control, Drive by wire included in MoTec is anti lag, boost control and dual AVCS valve control.
• TGV delete kit
• Paint, Wrap, TBD – perhaps to be controlled by budget?
• AWIC - custom fabrication
• Intention is get the vehicle street legal and registered, then play… If work commitments are nice to me, might be driving for Kiwi summer?

Dual AVCS has certainly created some issue for me. I first intended to use the easy wiring option and committed to VCP (thanks Wayne) TecS ECU and loom, however just prior to shipping we/I discovered the issue with Dual AVCS - so then Wayne swapped ECU and sent me the COBB V3 access port. However my late 2011 engine didn't come with loom, and Subaru included immobiliser as standard in the ECU, dash assembly and ignition key - so without all 3 I was unlikely to get the COBB or stock ECU to run....
So I elected to buy perhaps the very best after market ECU and management system. The MoTec M800, which includes so many options and inclusions - most importantly 'Traction Control'.
I'll attempt to add a picture of my 818S chassis 131 RHD arriving in shipping crate today! My 3 1/2 year old is my 2IC and he is the one in a high vis vest advising the truck driver where the box can be placed. Let the fun begin...

May I take the opportunity to thank everyone whom I consider the 818 pioneers for posting great build threads. I apologise in advance for all the great idea's I copy and duplicate and I hope that I end up posting useful stuff that will benefit others out there.
818 131RHD.JPG

[Wayne Presley]

that box is huge! Congrats on it finally arriving

[Mechie3]

That's not a box, that's a mobile house!

[longislandwrx]

^ like

[AZPete]

What a great photo of the project foreman! Your thread of the RHD will be very interesting so please keep us up to date of your progress. Congrats on the long distance delivery.

[DodgyTim]

Hey Justin, good to catch up the other day, I'll be following your build closely
I'll be opening my crate in the next week or so, then the build race will be on
Cheers
Tim

[Junty]

Cheers guys, it was a huge box. Its about now that I'll compliment the guys at FFR. What a beautiful job was done packing the crate. Everything individually wrapped - packed and well stacked. This crate has travelled a few miles to get here and although I have yet to check everything off - I cannot see any sign of rubbing marks or damage.
Thanks Tim, It was nice to meet you also - I opened my crate today - then completely emptied it. Tomorrow will be ensuring everything that needs to be here is - then Thursday the build will start.
Thanks to AZPete for posting design for chassis dolly - I copied your idea, with similar concept. Thanks...

[Junty]

Hey guys,
I explained in my introduction that I did order a kit a long time ago and due to my own delays/changes it has taken a lot longer to get the KIT to NZ.
However these long delays did allow a lot of time to study, plan and prepare. I didn't want to start a build thread until I actually had my kit - so I'll post a few historical images of what has been done over the past 12months - preparing donor etc...
Front hubs, cleaned and installed new ARP (Nissan), bearings, disk rotors and pads. I also went to the trouble of stripping the callipers and installing new seals and dust covers. These were completed about 6 months ago - so accumulated some dust now but they look nearly new.
I followed others posts/threads and de-powered the RX steering rack. At the time I used epoxy on the inner (no easy access to TIG) and being a street car i was hoping that this might be a half/half option that would allow a little flexibility?
As with everything kit car related (i'll rely on the pioneers to confirm) a small budget car very quickly becomes large, bigger, then much like the crate the 818 was delivered in absolutely huge! This happened to me - because of ECU issues, trying to get wheels/tires in NZ and because as well as a kit car I wanted a workshop apt to building it, so I purchased a new AC/DC TIG welding with Plasma cutting.
TGV valves were the first mod that I took to and removed them completely.
Attached are a few pictures of the progress along the way preparing parts.
By the way - I feel really sorry for all of you in the USA whom are affected by salt roads. I prepared a Rasmus 'bucket of doom' ready for cleaning parts - but I have absolutely nothing to dip! In Aus/NZ even a 12 year old car has relatively clean parts underneath - man o man does that salt cause havoc in the USA - no salt here...

[gpaterson]

Hey Justin congrats on getting your kit. The next couple of RHD kits destined for NZ are on the water and due mid August. See you at Hampton Downs sometime next year!

Cheers
George

[Junty]

Well day one of the build has been and gone. I only had a couple of hours to work on 818 today - but great feeling to complete part of the build! Firewall installed, front suspension completed, steering rack installed and STI sway-bar almost completed. Build instructions are easy to follow and because I have been planning the 818 build and reading many pioneer 818 build threads - all my donor car parts are ready and waiting, cleaned, new bearings installed, new disk and pads installed. I guess that building this way does make the job easier?

[DodgyTim]

Amazing progress for 1 day
How did the RHD rack go?

[wallace18]

Looking good! And I thought I was fast. LOL.

[Junty]

Thanks Guys, as I mentioned - good preparation of donor parts does make fitment quick and relatively pain free...
Rack fits perfect - however brake and clutch/pedal box is completely different to LHD - USA based cars. There is a lot of fabrication required. I'm just investigating how best tackle this part - might be easier to use alternative pedal box? Other than fabricating to fit pedal box - location interferes with the steering column!

[Junty]

Slow progress this weekend - 'family weekend' so zero 818 build:-(
However today saw completion of suspension. Although still working on steering column/brake pedal assembly (RHD mod's needed), it was fun to push it around on its own feet!
Rear fire wall (behind fuel tank) in the next couple of days - then hopefully can mount the beast that will contribute to motion.

I'll document some of the differences between kit(LHD) pedal assembly and what changes I make to accommodate RHD soon.

[Martin]

Being from NZ myself, I couldn't imagine a better place to have an 818. Narrow roads, lots of short straights, tight bends and plenty of spare parts available (cheap).

I'll be following this thread.

Martin

[STiPWRD]

Great work, your preparation really shows!

[wleehendrick]

Being from NZ myself, I couldn't imagine a better place to have an 818.

But have to watch out for all the sheep! Just kidding... my wife and I honeymooned in NZ and loved it; beautiful country!

[Junty]

Thanks Guys, completed rear firewall, and much of the pedal assembly alterations. As mentioned I'll post a specific thread for RHD versus LHD pedal changes that all RHD builders will inevitably face.
Hey in New Zealand we now have more cows than sheep. Known as the dairy capital of the world, sheep have been declining for the past 20years! But still have great roads, it just more difficult to enjoy them when in rains - so hence once finished with FFR 818 part of the build, I'm going to investigate fabrication of a CF hardtop...

[xatudor]

If the pedal assembly needs alterations, what mods did FFR do to justify charging the extra money for a RHD chassis. Also are the headlights the correct ones for RHD, not being smart, the beam should be a different shape (high on the left) so that you dont blind the oncoming drivers but can still keep a look out for Sheep or Cows on your side of the road.

[Junty]

I'm really happy with the RHD 818. The dash and most parts look excellent. IMO great value for a low volume RHD build and really happy to have paid the extra.
After all this is about $10.7K for RHD plus about $4K shipping... still really happy :-)
View my thread/post in 'brake and suspension' outlining the few hours mod's I've made to make it work easily...

[Junty]

Sorry xatudor, I saved a few dollars by deleting the headlamps from my kit - as I will buy RHD aftermarket - 'angle eyes' or something similar. I expected and wanted to do this long before completing order of kit :-)

[Junty]

Well I didn't have any time today - however yesterday evening I managed to finish off the brake pedal assembly, by building a new connecting rod between the master cylinder and pedal (30mm longer). And I installed the engine and g/box.
That will be all for the next week or so - as I have a family weekend travelling north and then I'm working next week across the Tasman in Australia.

[Junty]

Sorry for lack of updates. Ive unfortunately been away working for the last few weeks - so little or no 818 time.
However, updates of what has been achieved since last post...
1. Installed all brake and clutch lines, including finalising of brake pedal mods for RHD. System bleed, with good pedal pressure! Wonders will amaze as Ive never run brake lines before and there is a lot to do to plumb the ABS system. About now I thank all those prior for posting their rave reviews of the Eastwood flaring system, which I purchased whilst traveling through California in June - thanks!
2. New high volume fuel pump installed in full tank, along with mods for pickup, wiring and installed the level sensor (tank is ready for final install now).
3. Did very rough (eye) line up of rear suspension and bolted everything tight, including installing new CV boots and clamping everything shut...
4. Finished full install of engine and transmission. Bolted all down tight. I initially expected to have to swap the late model engine mounts for the early 2004 donor that I'm using - however the 2011 2.5L turbo including the VF52 clamped straight in - It even clears the rear suspension brace (waste gate) with adequate clearance. I had seen another thread with someone running a VF4? turbo and this had a waste gate clearance issue with the same rear cross member?
5. Installed my Mishimoto radiator and plumbed half the system (LHS).
6. Amongst this limited progress I also had that huge shipping crate to deal to. So it was stripped down to individual boards (nails removed) and a small portion of it has become a great playhouse for my 3.5 year old son. He now thinks that the best thing about dad building a car is that he gets a playhouse... Forget me raving about wheels/tire/exhaust stuff - he just announces that the window should go here....
Ohh - by the way 1.1, 2.1 3.1 4.1 5.1 and 6.1 and continuing is working on the ECU and Engine wiring....... Nothing matches every colour changes, so needs to be individually traced.

[DodgyTim]

You are making great progress, any prediction on when you'll go-kart?

[AZPete]

Great progress and nice photos. Most of us would have built the steps to the play house on the left.

[Junty]

Some but not a lot of 818 progress this week. I'm away working across the Tasman - so little time for 818 other than buying additional parts ;-)
This week...
1. Finished radiator hoses and installed radiator, overflow tank and engine filler tank. On early engines this is steel - but on my late model 2.5 this is plastic and easily fits in its standard inlet manifold location.
2. Installed new fuel pressure regulator, fuel rails and ran all the braided hoses (including connection to fuel tank and return line).
3. Finished installing seat belts and low half of fuel tanks firewall.
4. Installed (roughly lying loose) loom. Connected a few plugs to approximate location and with battery I have instrument cluster illumination and the engine cranks over (no ECU yet).
5. Still working on Engine wiring, however it is looking a little less ominous as I've deleted and removed, Tumble generator actuators, removed secondary air pump and valves. So now just the essential wiring remains and is starting to look more manageable.

All going well I will be go-karting before the end of September - hopefully next week, but I have a really busy work schedule.

[Junty]

Well sorry for lack of recent updates, but during the past month Ive had a very busy time travelling for work (Australia 4 times and Eastern Europe via Japan). Its nice to be busy working (this helps fund the 818 dream - as well as pay the bills at home), but it does limit time I have to spend on 818 build:-(
So in-between trips away, Ive managed to finish matching the wires from ECU to engine, upgrade ECU software and unlock some of the Motec ECU options:- Lambda control and variable CAM adjustment. I wasn't able to get a base MAP for my 2012 engine - however I have a 2008 start MAP that will at least get me running - ready for dyne tune.
I installed 2 x WRX seats, finished lower front firewall pedal box/side aluminium (covering radiator pipes).
Then today after only having a few hours to work on 818 - i started the engine...http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/smilies/smile.png
Very pleased with startup - need to spend a lot of time working on tune - as base MAP has very rich fuel mixture - guys at Motec in Melbourne advise that this is to avoid lean startups which tend to melt things:-(
Other small achievements - (i'm self teaching myself to weld) managed to weld a muffler (tri-flow 2.5inch) in-between the FFR provided (turbo to Cat adapter) (cut in half) and the tail pipe piece with O2 sensor. Nice throaty sound without being frustrating for none-car enthusiastic neighbours.
Installed the FFR shifter - pressed this apart and rotated the bend by 90 degrees (this modified from bend towards LHD (Driver) to a slight bend backwards, but perpendicular to the front of car.
After starting car, it took 5-6 bleeds of the cooling system to get the air and bubbles out - confident that I'm 95% there now. I should have spent more time reading the solutions I know others have already posted on this process...
Also during this part of the build Ive installed the DBW throttle - this required a lot of modification for RHD. The brake an clutch need to be removed and bend both these across to the left - allowing room for the accelerator. There is also no support to attach the DBW accelerator pedal - it flexes on the aluminium firewall. So I'll manufacture some support to strengthen the pedal next week.
When installing the shifter - Ive used all the same FFR parts - but I drilled the centre adapter using a stepped drill - this allowed it to push down well past the gear box shift rod where it increases in diameter. Also I mounted the side bracket back by 1/2 inch (re-drilled mounting holes) then finally a small bend in side bracket and both cables line up beauty and I'm sure that the shifter will well clear the rear fibreglass once fitted :-)
Ive tried to ad startup video - but not sure how to yet?

[Junty]

Still can't add the video - I might post a link to youtube?
This weekend I started to tune the engine. Motec software is beautiful and easy to use, I just wanted to get it running reasonably smooth with stable idle, so amended the fuel mixture a little, and set idle RPM, reduced (detuned boost to a conservative 10 PSI), fixed a couple of small vacuum lines on the inlet manifold (items removed from engine) - these leaks once fixed resulted in a nice sounding engine :-)
Sunday evening NZT - I'm officially go carting - still need to wrap engine loom and tie cables up, mount ECU - next week when back from work I'm heading to dyno...
Almost forgot - because I have a 2012 engine (these have a large nearly square top mount intercooler. Although I will eventually run an Air/Water unit - the stock sits in a nice location and I purchased a 10" cooling fan which mounts well on top - this might help with a good flow of coolish air. Once tuned an body is on I'll evaluate benefit of AWIC...

[Junty]

As mentioned in my last post, I'm temporarily using the stock top mount intercooler from my late model engine. Primarily due to difficulties easily connecting a tube/pipe to my VF52 turbo - I decided to start the engine and trial this standard intercooler before investing in the AWIC that I expect to eventually use.
These late model Top Mount units however are a really nice size (almost square) and therefore easily accept a slim 10" radiator fan. I suspect that once fibreglass is fitted and some aluminium is constructed to duct coolish air to this fan - we may achieve as good results as AWIC options? Yet to be convinced either way - I'll let you all know about ambient versus post intercooler temperatures once we get to a dyno...

[Junty]

Well today I managed to redesign and alter the standard FFR 818 fitment of the radiator tubes - along each side of the car. I decided a few months back that the thick and thin rubber spacers that are needed to increase the diameter of the aluminium side pipes was likely to jeopardise the cooling system pressure - especially if one didn't hold as well as it should?
So today for a mere US$18.50 I purchased a 2.5m length of 1 3/4 inch aluminium tube. I cut this down to match the lengths of the FFR supplied tube and then used a small adjustable crox tool to roll a bead, same as FFR ones to more securely hold the rubber radiator hoses.
Below are some pictures, this certainly makes so much sense to me - so much so that for the first time in this build I question why FFR didn't make this system better? Please FFR increase the diameter of the aluminium tubes to 1 3/4 inch and do away with rubber spacers for future cars...

[STiPWRD]

I cut this down to match the lengths of the FFR supplied tube and then used a small adjustable crox tool to roll a bead, same as FFR ones to more securely hold the rubber radiator hoses.

Mind sharing a picture of your crox tool and how much it cost? I think you ended up with a very nice bead on that pipe. I did a quick search for bead rolling tools and they seem to be going for about $180 on ebay. This would also be useful on modified intercooler piping.

[MrDude_1]

I am interested in this "Crox Tool" and how it works.. However it seems to be a New Zealand only thing. Is there another name it goes by? How does it work? That bead looks really nice.

edit: lol STiPWRD beat me to it while I was looking up "crox tool" online...

[Wayne Presley]

Vibrant makes a nice bead roller #2990, I can get them for $290. I have one myself for doing the IC and other tubing. Will do down to 3/4" pipe.

[Junty]

Thanks guys, fortunately I have a friend who is a plumber gas fitter. I borrowed one that he had in his tool box unused for maybe the last 10 years. It looks much the same as Wayne's image above - but primarily made of brass (maybe 20-40 years) old. These are mainly used for copper pipe before PVC a was so prevalent...

[Junty]

This weekend I finished properly plumbing the cooling system, then faced the same difficulties many have already experienced (bleeding air from the cooling system). The process has been very frustrating, I believe that I've adequately completed the process by parking the car on a small incline and jacking the front up. However, with so many things I've just studied other threads relating to air/cooling and I'll now modify the cooling line as Wayne (VCP) recommends with a bleed nipple added. I'm confident that this will make repeating this process a whole lot less frustrating and easier, I should have studied these threads sooner, it was so long ago that I looked at cooling. Now with engine running, sounding good, I just had to try another couple of go-kart rides around the block - I cannot wait to get this finished now, the car responds so well, is agile and very rapid... More than I expected.
So good news is that I'm well on track to have car registered and road going by NZ summer, however we have just entered a very busy motor-sport season in NZ. Targa starts next weekend, followed by north island rally series, and next month Speedway starts. So unfortunately all workshops with Dyno machines and Motec experience are fully booked until middle/end of November. I was hoping to co-ordinate a tune of the car before body is fitted, but alas this may now need to be done with body on.
Aside from this - driving this is just so much fun, i had to start fitting the body, i simply wanted a chassis to start looking like a daily driver -http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/images/smilies/smile.png
Very happy with progress, I just want to finish it, drive it, and have fun...2ICvaroom.JPGbleedingair.jpgRadiatorair.jpg
Not nearly as much fun as driving it - but I also finished wiring and installing all the ABS system. Haven't tried properly to test it yet - but using all the original donor system (just changing the wheel location from OEM distribution) it all appears to work.

[Hendow]

Hi Justin and G'day from the 'West Island'!

I figured, what better place for my first post than to introduce myself to you on your build log, as it seems we are both on the same page with our 818's... How many other RHD 818S's are out there featuring a late model WRX driveline??!!

Soo many questions, where do I start?!

I purchased a 'virtually complete' well known 818S recently, which had been fitted with a stock 2012 WRX engine, loom, dash and ecu, and like you I have embarked on the process to road register the car. It is running, and on the road under permits, however I am hitting a few roadblocks with its development, so I'm keen to get your thoughts and learn from your experiences.

I've just had a dyno check carried out which indicates the motor is leaning out badly under boost, most likely due to the modded CAI setup. This is compounded by the inability to get the OBD2 port talking to the ECU, making a retune impossible... Been advised to swap the factory ecu for a Motec M800 PnP ecu to get around this problem (AU$5k...!)

Which of course opens another can of worms... Dash display, wheel speed sensors, etc etc...!!
Did you fit the late model speed sensors/spindles? Similarly dash, and did you get the speedo to work?
I've just fitted a 9in slim thermos an to the back of my I/c but am unable to determine its effectiveness due to the lack of suitable temp sensor downstream of the I/c... Certainly seems to pump through a lot more air...

Like you, I'm leaning towards an AWIC's, and will be placing an order with Wayne (VCP) shortly, as I see this as my only real option given the warm climate here.

Anyway, if I can be of any assistance (ie comparing our setups) or chasing wiring colours(!) let me know!

Oh, and fantastic job on your build so far!

Cheers,

Wayne

[freds]

My ECU was Access port "locked" and I wanted to have open source access and use RomRaider and ECU Flash. Check my build thread post # 21

A local tuner "unlocked it using a "trick" of loading another Cobb tune (I don't know the details..I'm dumb) and now I have free access. I had also imagined that I would have to replace the ECU and was happy to save that money.

fred

[Junty]

Ok all, sorry for slow updates. I have been really busy working - lots of travel and limited 818 time.
Over the past fortnight between work travel, I managed to fit some new lower arm rear bushes. I used some caster adjustment units from PowerFlex, these offset bushes push the rear of the aluminium lower arm outward (when installed correctly). This increases the clearance for the front wheels. In addition I added new tie rod ends, steering rack boots - tightened all the suspension components and took the go-cart in for a full wheel alignment.
end of alignment:- Front:- caster 4.0 degrees each side, camber -0.6 degrees both sides, toe 0.6mm both sides, Rear:- camber -0.3 degrees, toe 2.2mm both sides. caster bush.jpgFor the alignment tire pressure was set at 32PSI, and ride height was set at 4 3/4 inch in front and 4 5/8 inch in rear. The small increase in height over the standard 4 1/2 inch is to allow for body, windscreen and extra's yet to be added (more to yet be added in front compared with rear).
I also unlocked lambda sensing within the Motec M800 ECU, fitted a Bosch wide band O2 sensor to the rear of the muffler. The car still has a very rough base tune in the ECU (factory standard settings) no cam control, no IGN advance or fuel enrichment - So its books into a Dyno tune shop next week whilst Im working in Italy.
Upon completion, I'll tidy the wiring up, add some underlay and carpet, install seats and interior properly and start on complete body fitment.
During the tune next week, I'm adding a air temp sensor close to the throttle body (after intercooler). We will add a parameter to the Motec ECU which can/will adjust the fuel and boost as the temperature increases with hot conditions.
fronton.JPG
Finally I played by trial fitting some body (temporarily).

[Junty]

Today I miss my 818. Im preparing for my week away working in Italy, and keep going to the shed to tinker with something - and the place is empty. Well no 818 chassis there... I dropped the vehicle in for tuning, so all I have left to tinker with this body panels and trim. So attached below are some pictures of the trim panels cutout, painted/prepped - then aluminium trims glued in place. I have decided for the first few months to leave car as is, gel coat white. Eventually I intend upon wrap or paint, but we are into our NZ summer, and I will run out of time to drive the car this season if I spend time finishing the paint now. So using a cheap online carbon fibre film, I've wrapped the aluminium trim and painted the back, along with the mesh satin black. I'm actually pleasantly surprised with the look :-) Nice contrast between black, white and CF (2 different colours). I might reconsider my final colour now? Sorry guys in Australasia we have a U in colour.

[metalmaker12]

Ok all, sorry for slow updates. I have been really busy working - lots of travel and limited 818 time.
Over the past fortnight between work travel, I managed to fit some new lower arm rear bushes. I used some caster adjustment units from PowerFlex, these offset bushes push the rear of the aluminium lower arm outward (when installed correctly). This increases the clearance for the front wheels. In addition I added new tie rod ends, steering rack boots - tightened all the suspension components and took the go-cart in for a full wheel alignment.
end of alignment:- Front:- caster 4.0 degrees each side, camber -0.6 degrees both sides, toe 0.6mm both sides, Rear:- camber -0.3 degrees, toe 2.2mm both sides. caster bush.jpgFor the alignment tire pressure was set at 32PSI, and ride height was set at 4 3/4 inch in front and 4 5/8 inch in rear. The small increase in height over the standard 4 1/2 inch is to allow for body, windscreen and extra's yet to be added (more to yet be added in front compared with rear).
I also unlocked lambda sensing within the Motec M800 ECU, fitted a Bosch wide band O2 sensor to the rear of the muffler. The car still has a very rough base tune in the ECU (factory standard settings) no cam control, no IGN advance or fuel enrichment - So its books into a Dyno tune shop next week whilst Im working in Italy.
Upon completion, I'll tidy the wiring up, add some underlay and carpet, install seats and interior properly and start on complete body fitment.
During the tune next week, I'm adding a air temp sensor close to the throttle body (after intercooler). We will add a parameter to the Motec ECU which can/will adjust the fuel and boost as the temperature increases with hot conditions.
fronton.JPG
Finally I played by trial fitting some body (temporarily).

The tire pressure for driving should be much lower, just throwing it out there if you have not heard or known. 19-20psi front and 21-24psi rear