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Thread: Hindsight's build thread

  1. #201
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    I'm at the same place since my last post. Lots of planning and have ordered a lot of parts. Have not had time to actually install them though.

    I've spent way more than I probably should have on the fuel system. My donor came with AP rails which didn't fit, and I didn't have the stock rails (plus I don't like the stock rails) so I got some better aftermarket ones from IAP and a Fuel Lab FPR. Between the cost of new fuel rails, FPR, new fuel filter, new Walbro pump, and all the -6 AN fuel hose and fittings, I believe I spent a hair over $700. At least it will be reliable and look very, very clean.

    I also bought a TIG welder (previously had no welder of any kind) which should open up a bunch of possibilities and allow me to make my own exhaust.

    Got the stuff I need for a thermostatic controlled remote oil cooler (using the Mocal plate and am planning on trying to remove the factory oil heat exchanger). Will try mounting the oil cooler on the left intake vent and my intake air filter on the right intake vent. All the oil and fuel lines will be mounted to the firewall I built.

    So I'm at the point where I have a bunch of stuff I need to shuffle around to see where it will all fit and needed to have all those parts in hand to do that. This includes oil filler (went with Mechie's), AWIC, fuel tank filler hose, FPR, air intake, oil cooler, radiator overflow, AOS, etc. I decided to postpone the addition of the Accusump for now. I really want it but I also really want a lot of other things lol.

    Also spent a lot of time planning my MR2 shifter which will probably be done very similar to Dan's. I'll be using a bell crank in the back. I may have to mount the shifter on a riser bracket to get the knob high enough for me. My Momo racing seat bulges out right where the shifter needs to go so I'll need extra height to help deal with that.

    I also decided on going with 17" wheels/tires all the way around. Pretty set on Enkei Kojins. They are a good wheel and I love the way they look on the 818. I feel the 17" tire in the back with the slightly taller sidewall will improve acceleration traction.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 04-09-2015 at 10:02 AM.

  2. #202
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Wow, lots of fun parts! Now get started on installing them!

    Congrats on the welder - it will come in handy I'm sure.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  3. #203
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    Well I owe a lot of thanks to Andrew for talking me through some purchase decisions!

  4. #204
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    Today I installed my driveshafts, ported my Mocal remote oil cooler plate, and installed my oil pressure and oil temp gauges.

    The mocal plate has some sharp edges that may restrict flow so I radiused them a bit.


    I'm using Prosport oil temp and oil pressure gauges. Since I'm using the versions that have the buzzer alert, I am going to run without the factory oil pressure sensor so that I can run the Prosport pressure sensor in it's place. That just left me looking for a place for the oil temp sensor. I chose one of the front galley plugs. I removed the OE plug, got a brass Prosport galley plug to 1/8" NPT adapter fitting with a brass crush washer, put some liquid pipe thread sealant on it and installed as shown in the pics below. I'm running Mike's alternator bracket kit (which is really slick by the way), and with the stock mounting location of the strut, it blocks that oil galley plug. Fortunately there is another unused threaded boss in the case that the strut can be moved over to (as shown in the pic below) and it works out great! You have to remove the long spacer supplied in Mike's kit though. If you want to run a spacer to get a better fit between the bolt and the heim joint, Mike can supply you with a shorter spacer (same one that goes on the top of the strut). Fits great like this.


    I've also been learning to weld on the Eastwood TIG welder I bought. I've only practiced on steel so far but it's been easier to pick up than I thought. The Eastwood welder works great, though I have no basis for comparison. So far it's performed great and if it lasts, I'll be very happy with the value. My welds are strong and functional but not always a perfect stack of dimes but I'm getting better with each time. Harbor Freight had a coupon for their cheap little welding cart: $35, so I bought one. It wasn't deep enough for the Eastwood welder so I welded on some angle bracket to extend out forward and support it. Worked out great.



    Next up is to figure out where I want to install the AWIC temp gauge and then install it, as well as install the pre and post intercooler air temp sensors. I will probably just put them in the end tanks of the intercooler but I get nervous drilling and tapping into that due to shavings.

  5. #205
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    I've been spending time figuring out where everything is going to fit. Reading Chad's thread and others, it's been a bit of a struggle figuring out an optimal place to put the intake and the oil cooler. Without the body and splash guards in place, it's really tough for me to see what's going to fit where, so today I'm going to temporarily clamp the side sails and rear bumper to the frame and also tape the splash guards in place so I can figure out where to mount things and how much room I have. The tricky part is figuring it out once so you don't have to buy 10 different items and only end up the one of them that fits.

  6. #206
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    For my target HP rating, the Setrab oil cooler I need is about 16 x 7.5. With two fans and a thin shroud on it, it will also be 4.5" thick so I made a cardboard template and tried two places:

    Next to the left side intake:





    In the rear, drawing cool air up from underneath:




    Of the two, it seems the rear may be the best option. The hot air exhausted upward will be right in front of the rear vents. The space over there is wide open and not used. If I put a diffuser on there, I'll need to cut a hole in it but I'm not worried about that.

    Any opinions?

  7. #207
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    In putting the body on, at least, enough of it to see where I can fit certain things, I realized: I don't have front fenders! They apparently never came with my kit and I was so focused on inventorying all the boxes that I didn't even think to check the actual body panels. I'm obviously way outside the missing item window but hopefully FFR will do something for me.

  8. #208
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    haha that is hilarious! That's a big one to miss. I imagine they'll still help you out because, well, they'd be hard to misplace on accident.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  9. #209
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    As it turns out, I'm an idiot. I called FFR and while they offered to give me the fenders at cost (which was VERY nice of them), it still amounted to quite a bit of money.

    I searched far and wide around the house and shed for two hours, searching in places that I'd never imagine myself putting a pair of fenders. Right as I was about to give up, I thought, "Maybe I should look in the attic above the shed." That's where they were. I still don't remember putting them up there, but then again, it's been a long time since I received the kit.

    Moving along.... I found an hour and a half to work on the 818 tonight. I got the Killer-B baffle and oil pickup in place and put the pan back on with some Hondabond.


    Also gave me an excuse to get this inch-pound torque wrench which is something I've always wanted but never got around to buying. I have two other foot-pound torque wrenches but they don't go down below 15 foot-pounds. There are quite a lot of things that need to be torqued below that including pressure plate bolts (which still makes me cringe but it obviously works):


    While in there, I noticed that one of the four nuts holding the exhaust manifold to the head is about an inch away from the flange and not making any contact. I see signs of exhaust leakage there so I'm going to pull the manifold and replace all the gaskets while I'm down there.

    The Mocal external oil cooler sandwich plate don't work on the 06/07 engines because they have a factory oil/water heat exchanger that sits at an angle. When you mount the mocal plate to it, it points the fittings directly at the exhaust manifold. I removed the factory cooler and the weird three piece angle plate it sits on and the mocal plate it then too high and it hits the timing belt cover. Mocal makes a 1" tall spacer for the BRZ that also comes with a tube nut that's an inch longer so it will work. I have that on order which should get here next week. Once that's here, I can install the plate and then order the oil cooler and connect it all up. I guess I'm just going to put the oil cooler horizontally to the left of the transmission with fans pulling air up through it, unless anyone else has any better suggestions.

  10. #210

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    How much do a set of fenders cost anyways?

  11. #211
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    I can't remember the retail price exactly but it's around $425 each fender.

  12. #212
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    The Mocal spacer and -12 AN fittings arrived so I installed that. The spacer is for the BRZ and is 1" high. I wish it were 1/2" but it will still clear the exhaust manifold heat shield as-is. I'm planning on getting 45 degree AN hose ends, aimed toward the firewall and slightly to the side, then clamp the oil hoses to the firewall, then run them back to the oil cooler which will be sitting in the very back left corner of the car. Need to get the hose, fittings, and oil cooler ordered soon.

    I also started work on the fuel system. Got the pump/filter assembly swapped out with a new OEM fuel filter, new OEM fuel line and spring clamps (previous owner used crappy hose with over-tightened worm drive clamps), and a new Walbro 255 pump. Also bent the float arms a but to ensure everything will work in the new fuel tank. Also installed the bulk-head fitting that Wayne suggested for venting the tank to the filler neck. After drilling I got the shavings out of the tank with a magnet. I was able to use the bulk head part number he provided but not the AN to 1/2" barb because it's too high for the new aluminum that covers the new tank. I'm going to need a 90 degree fitting instead and I hope it will clear the cover.... it will be close.

    Also, look at the fuel tank ports. If you are going to use AN push-lock fittings with a hose end on them, they will stick out too far and you won't be able to get the aluminum tank cover on. You'll need a 90 degree hose end instead. Fortunately I have one of those.

    I should be able to make some more progress tomorrow.

    Mocal sandwich plate with BRZ spacer and longer tube nut (all of which can be special-ordered from RacerPartsWholesale):


    Here it is installed. Note that I capped off the coolant barb that went to the OEM heat exchanger (I did that on the pump too). I used a silicone blockoff cap for that. 034MotorSport.com carries the silicone blockoff caps in all sizes:


    Hose-end issue with the new tank:


    -8AN Bulkhead fitting:


    New pump and filter setup:

  13. #213
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    I'm out of town for all three days of the holiday weekend so I took today off to try and get some stuff done on the 818. It was a good day and I made good progress.

    The fuel tank filler vent bulkhead wasn't going to work so I removed it and welded up the hole. I then drilled another hole all the way at the driver's side of the tank and welded a 1/2" NPT bung on it. I have a 1/2" NPT x 1/2" Barb 90 degree fitting going onto that, and will connect a 1/2" hose to that and rout it up to the top of the filler neck for venting while filling. I also welded two angle brackets to the top of the fuel tank so I can bolt it to the frame. The new tank relies on the cockpit panels to hold it in place which I didn't think was enough. I also installed the fuel pump and sending unit. My FFR riv-nut setup broke so I couldn't install the rivnuts for the tank just yet. I have one on order from Amazon so hopefully I can get back to it next week.


    My first shot at TIG welding something that goes on the car. I have a lot to learn. Any input is welcome!



    I also got the coolant hoses in place, but couldn't bolt the side tubes due to my broken riv-nut tool. I'll get to these next week once the new tool arrives.



    I have a lot of things to focus on now that parts are here. I need to run all the fuel lines and add the fuel pressure regulator, fab up a fan shroud and mounts for the Setrab oil cooler, run -12 AN lines between the oil cooler and Mocal sandwich plate, figure out where to put the AOS, and get the AWIC all sorted out.

  14. #214
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Looks great! We just bought the Amazon rivnut tool because the FFR one gets frustrating. We are going to use it tomorrow for the first time.

    Does the new style tank have any baffling? If it doesn't, you might want to consider adding it. Our old style one has serious sloshing issues due to no baffling, leading to fuel starve mid corner.

  15. #215
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    Looks good. Why wouldn't the filler vent work out?

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tamra View Post
    Does the new style tank have any baffling? If it doesn't, you might want to consider adding it. Our old style one has serious sloshing issues due to no baffling, leading to fuel starve mid corner.
    Somebody posted this picture of the inside of the new tank showing a mid tank baffling wall
    20150205_132656.jpg

    Tamra,
    On our front mounted 14 gal tank with foam.
    We were down to 3 gallons today and had no fuel issues.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  17. #217
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    Tamra, the baffle in the pic Bob posted above is all that's there in the new tank. I can't add another on the other side of the pickup or the fuel level floats won't work. Can't run foam in the tank for the same reason. The best solution would be to relocate the fuel sender to the other end of the tank but that's a lot of work and would require wiring modifications so only one of the two level senders is utilized.

    Fireblade: The previous filler vent plan wouldn't work because the fittings would be sticking up too high. The cockpit cover is only 2.5 to 3" above the top of the tank. Very little room there.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 05-24-2015 at 09:08 AM.

  18. #218
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    Got it. After seeing Wayne's post the other day I was planning on doing something similar to what you did. Fortunately though I have the old tank so room wouldn't be an issue. Did that vent come with the new tank or did you buy it separately.

  19. #219
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    I had to make it. I just drilled a hole in the tank and welded a bung in. Will run 1/2" fuel hose up to another bung I will weld to the filler cap. That's all for filling only. Main tank vent will be 1/4 fitting in the stock pump top, then adapter to 3/8" hose so I can run an inline rollover valve that is made for 3/8 hose. The new tank has no rollover valve.

  20. #220
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    Got back in to town a day early so spent a few hours in the garage today.

    Nothing major done but I was able to get the rivnuts installed with the new Astro tool from Amazon which works so well and so fast that I can't believe I bothered installing a single rivnut with the FFR provided tool. So I got the rivnuts in for the tank mount and the coolant side tubes and fastened them into place.



    I also attached the fuel tank fill tube. I thought I was going to have an alignment issue with it but it looks like it's going to fit just about perfectly for me:



    I'm still at that point where I have to figure out how 10 different things are going to fit together, including the air intake, fuel lines and FPR, coolant overflow tank, AWIC reservoir, etc. I'm thinking I'm going to fab up my own AWIC reservoir and mount it where the Momo box is shown in the pic below so it's the highest point in the system. The hot side of the AWIC will route into a port toward the top of this and out the bottom, the hope being that any air bubbles in the system will get trapped in this tank.



    Coolant expansion tank here, assuming the intake hose clears it:



    Fuel pressure regulator here:

  21. #221
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I put my AWIC coolant tank in the same place. I may raise it a couple of inches.
    P1050315s.jpg

    Working great.
    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 05-25-2015 at 05:23 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  22. #222
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    For your overflow tank, is that for the turbo coolant reservoir or the radiator overflow? We found that our radiator overflow was too small (and too angled) and had to get a bigger one. Just a heads up in case that is your plan... if it's the turbo coolant reservoir then it looks like it should work fine. Maybe better considering all the problems with the OEM one!

    You have some great quality parts going into this build!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  23. #223
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    Thanks Bob and Tamra.

    Tamra, it's the reservoir for the AWIC. A lot of people aren't running them, it seems, but I think most OEM cars with AWIC setups do have them, and all the VWs I have worked on have a tank. In VWs, the tank doubles as an overflow. The bleeder line goes from the top of the radiator cap up into the reservoir (like on a Subaru I believe). Really helps to trap all the air in the system. However, on mine, I'm planning on running the tank in the main AWIC coolant loop. Meaning, 100% coolant will pass through this tank as it passes through the system as opposed to just a small bleed line. This should really help it capture any and all air bubbles.

    Bob, glad to know someone else mounted theirs there..... Are you planning on doing what I mentioned or just having a burp or overflow line going to it?

  24. #224
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Bob, glad to know someone else mounted theirs there..... Are you planning on doing what I mentioned or just having a burp or overflow line going to it?
    Hindsight.
    If you look at my picture closely you will see two 1/4" barb fittings on the AWIC.
    The bottom fitting goes to the bottom of my filler tank. The top fitting goes to the top of my filler tank.
    The idea is the filler tank and the awic will seek the same level. But with the filler tank higher, the awic will stay full.
    I should take an as-built picture.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  25. #225
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I've only ever heard of ice boxes for the AWIC. Could yours be used for that too? If so I think that'd be a great option to have! I kind of wish we would have added an ice box to ours, for a "just in case" option.

    I can't imagine the AWIC it would ever need an overflow. If your water temps are getting that high, I can't imagine what your post intercooler temps are getting to! We didn't have any major problems burping ours - It was not nearly as difficult as the regular coolant system. However, I'm sure having that would make it even easier.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  26. #226
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    Yeah I have heard of ice boxes as well but I can't find the room for something big enough to hold ice. I also agree with you on overflow... I don't plan on the cap ever needing to vent. The sole purpose for my reservoir is to serve as an automatic bleeder aka air-liquid separator. The reservoir will be filled so it is about half full all the time. Any air bubbles in the system loop will get dumped with the liquid into the reservoir. The air bubbles will remain trapped in the top of the reservoir and only bubble-free liquid will be drawn back into the hose from the bottom. I'm literally splicing this reservoir into my 3/4" heater hose.... there is no vent or bleeder or anything like that here, ALL coolant for the AWIC will pass through this thing every time it completes a loop through the system. So basically the flow will be: Pump, AWIC, Reservoir, Front-Mounted Heat Exchanger.

    I know the supercharged Mustangs came with an AWIC reservoir and I think a few other cars did too. This setup should also help me avoid having to do things like jacking up the front of the car to fill the system etc. I plan on keeping the AWIC radiator cap blocked off and never open it. All filling will be done from the reservoir.

  27. #227
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    Only had a few hours to spend on the car this weekend. I was able to get the air filter setup fabricated, modify the Perrin overflow tank mount so I could fit it in the 818, and I was able to finish the fuel tank venting system. For the fuel tank, I made my own charcoal canister (per another members post) using 3" PVC. I am not planning on having a vac source but it is vented to atmosphere. I am not running evap valves so want to avoid all that mess. We'll see how long that charcoal holds up.

    The air filter isn't exactly what is shown in the pic but close. This puts the filter right at the side vent opening. We'll see if it gets cool air. I know Chad's didn't but I don't understand why since we know the side vents are scooping fresh air.

    I started working on the oil filter mount. I'm going to hang it off the side like shown below. I'm making aluminum brackets to bolt to the frame and will need to fab up a longer bracket for the far left side to tie into something.... either the upper frame or the transmission.




  28. #228
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Oil cooler placement looks good. Interested to see how it all looks once complete.

  29. #229
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    Oil cooler is mounted and I have made a cardboard template of the fan shroud. However, I don't like the upper portion of the oil cooler mount; it doesn't provide much support due to the angle. There is just nothing to tie it into straight above, or even somewhat above. I thought about connecting it to the top of the transmission but then realized that would be a bad idea.... the transmission moves while the frame doesn't so it would be putting a lot of stress on the oil cooler.

    Here it is mounted to the frame with no support on the left side:



    Here is what I did today:



    Here it the cardboard fan shroud mockup I made. I didn't finish all four corners but you get the idea. I'll make the final one out of 1/16" aluminum and I guess I will bend it on a home-made brake (which I still need to make).
    Last edited by Hindsight; 06-06-2015 at 08:06 PM.

  30. #230
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    After giving it some more thought last night, I think I might weld some 1" square steel to extend the frame out to serve as the mounting point for the left side. Where the red lines are in the pic below.


  31. #231
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    Went ahead and added on to the frame to make a mount for the left side of the oil cooler as mentioned above and it worked perfectly:



    Now I just need to build the fan shroud out of aluminum, mount the fan, and plumb the system with the -12AN stuff I got.


    Was at the Atlanta cars and coffee event this morning and saw an RS-7 and a Lamborghini in similar grey colors that I really liked. I think the Audi wasn't metallic but the Lamborghini had a very small amount of metallic in it. Paint is such a long way away for me but I always have my eyes out for unique colors.




  32. #232
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    Here is the .063" aluminum I have cut out to function as a fan shroud for the oil cooler. My plan is to bend it up on a temporary, home-made metal brake (nothing fancy, just some hinges and steel angles), then weld the sides together. And of course, I'll need to cut a big hole in the top for the SPAL fan I have for it.

    Hoping to get that done, and get the -12 AN lines plumbed in so I can completely check "oil system" off the list finally.

  33. #233
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Looking good! I'll be curious to see how much air flow you get there. I hope it works for you!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  34. #234
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    Without the fan, I don't think I'd get much since it has no duct underneath to catch air and make a high pressure zone in front. The shroud will go on the top of the oil cooler and the fan (in pull mode) will be mounted to the top of the shroud. It will be a like a typical radiator setup. The idea is that the fan will create low pressure in the shroud; fresh air passing by from under the car will then be drawn up through the oil cooler and out the fan. The hot exhaust air will be pulled out the rear fascia vents.

    If this doesn't work I'll move it to the front of the car but I really don't want that much hose/line. I'm fairly confident this will work. The only issue I feel may come up is if the air around that part of the bottom of the car is hot (since no one yet really knows how the airflow patterns look back there yet). I'm hoping I will just be drawing from all the air that passes by underneath the car.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 06-12-2015 at 09:39 AM.

  35. #235
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    Whew, what a weekend. Made more progress this weekend then I have in a long time. Had two full days to work on it though I quit working at 4pm today.

    I completely finished off the oil system. The cooler is permanently mounted, the fan and shroud, -12AN lines and Mocal plate. Even the oil filter.

    Here is a pic of the setup I made to bend the metal. It worked "OK". The sheet metal I had was .063" which was stronger than I thought it would be. On one of the sides, I scored it a bit with a cutoff wheel before bending, which made the bending easier but also made it too weak so I had to go back over it with a welder:




    Here it is sitting on top of the oil cooler before finishing:




    And here it is finished with all the lines (the last pic below was taken before I added heat shielding to the hoses above the exhaust manifold):







    I spent a lot of time this weekend fabricating an AWIC degas tank out of 1/8" aluminum sheet, some bungs, and a billet fill neck I bought online. You can buy stuff like this online for around $80 but it doesn't have all the fittings in the size and places I wanted, and I wanted an excuse to get more practice welding. You can see I still have a ways to go but I'm slowly getting there. I don't know what kind of aluminum the filler neck was made of but it welded like CRAP! I thought about polishing the tank and leaving it natural color but decided to paint it. I'll save the raw polished aluminum look for when my welding gets to at least B+.



    Last edited by Hindsight; 06-14-2015 at 04:10 PM.

  36. #236
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    Also, not sure if anyone else has this issue but one out of every three or four NPT fittings I buy (from random sources.... sometimes Summit, sometimes Amazon sellers) don't fit right. The usual problem is that they thread in by hand all the way to where only two threads are showing. Not sure if anyone else has experienced that, but the picture below is a 3/4" NPT fitting hand-tight:



    Fuel pressure regulator is in. I need a couple more fittings and then I can attach the -6AN lines between the FPR and the motor, and the FPR and the tank:


  37. #237
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Wow nice fab on the tank!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  38. #238
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Not bad grasshopper!!
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  39. #239
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
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    Nice job on the tank and the fuel pressure regulator mounting looks nice and tidy.

    Where are you connecting the degas tank for the AWIC? That's something I thought would be handy but I wasn't sure how to plumb it in effectively.

  40. #240
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    Thanks guys!

    Metros, I'm going to add a hose barb to one of the end-tanks on the AWIC. I haven't 100% decided yet but it will go where one of the two dots are in the picture below. The upper one would be better but there isn't much room there before you hit the core with the drill or the tap. I could weld a bung on there I guess but it wouldn't look pretty. The idea is to have the bleeder on the highest part of the AWIC (note mine isn't mounted fully but it's tipped back a bit so any air will move to the area of the tank the dot is located), and then run a hose from there to the dedicated degas tank. Hose should be going upwards. I'm only using a 3/8" hose for that.... maybe even less, no need for something big. Out the bottom of the tank is a 3/4" barb which will go down to a T fitting. On the T fitting, one hose will go up to the front heat exchanger, the other to the degas tank, and the other to the hot side of the AWIC. This will keep some coolant constantly flowing through the degas tank and trapping any air that rides along with it.


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