Very Cool Parts

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  11
Likes Likes:  19
Page 7 of 39 FirstFirst ... 5678917 ... LastLast
Results 241 to 280 of 1556

Thread: Hindsight's build thread

  1. #241
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NoVA
    Posts
    1,064
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the details. Careful drilling through there. That aluminum is soft and will drill through easier than you anticipate.

  2. #242
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Had a couple hours after work this week and was able to finish off the hoses for the fuel tank. The hose on the bottom goes to the charcoal canister I made and detailed on the previous page.



    The fuel pressure regulator and the new "fuel manifold" is finished. The manifold is really just an AN Tee fitting followed by an AN Y fitting, all of which is on the pressure side of the regulator. I'm still working on the AN braided lines that go from the Y fitting to the fuel rails. I'm trying to do it right and making little brackets with rubber lined clamps to hold the braided hoses so I don't have abrasion issues as they snake their way around the engine to the manifold. I have probably another hour or two to finish them off. Here is the FPR with manifold:

  3. #243
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    512
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    How do you make those cuts in the aluminum? Dremel?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Here is the .063" aluminum I have cut out to function as a fan shroud for the oil cooler. My plan is to bend it up on a temporary, home-made metal brake (nothing fancy, just some hinges and steel angles), then weld the sides together. And of course, I'll need to cut a big hole in the top for the SPAL fan I have for it.

    Hoping to get that done, and get the -12 AN lines plumbed in so I can completely check "oil system" off the list finally.
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  4. #244
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati OH
    Posts
    3,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hindsight
    Did you modify your pump and plumb per FFR new manual?
    Bob
    ffr.jpg

    Note: I did not modify my pump assembly and I plumb it per Subaru manual.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  5. #245
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Touchstone, I used a cordless Dewalt jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. I've been very impressed by the amount of metals and thicknesses I can cut with it.

    Bob, no. I used the vent line for the return line so I could use the push-lock AN fittings for the feed and return. The OEM return line is a 1/4" barb, not push-lock. No idea why they would make the vent line a push-lock and the return line a barb. I did cut the metal line just below the flange (that I used as the vent line).

    But you know what, your question just made me realize that I have my hoses backwards to the FPR! I was in a hurry. Oops. I have the feed going to the return side of the FPR and the return going to the feed. Need to fix that.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 06-18-2015 at 07:05 PM.

  6. #246
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    Those are great fittings and lines, mine setup will look so old school compared to yours.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  7. #247
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    Those are great fittings and lines, mine setup will look so old school compared to yours.
    I think if I had to do it over again, I might just use standard high pressure fuel hose and fuel injection hose clamps with barbs. This setup cost a lot of money that could have probably gone to better use in other parts of the build, however, Metal Maker had fuel issues that he had to resolve by going with an aftermarket rail/FPR setup, and my donor came with crappy aftermarket rails that didn't fit properly and had spots on the hoses that were worn through the outer braid (not to mention one of the SS braided lines was hose clamped to a barb) so I was forced into either buying a stock rail setup on eBay or going with a new aftermarket setup. I chose the latter. It does look nice and the AN fittings and hoses are fun to work with. Also pretty cool reading up on the history of AN fittings (dates back to WWII - Army+Navy specification.... pretty cool imagining these things on WWII aircraft etc).

  8. #248
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati OH
    Posts
    3,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Bob, no. I used the vent line for the return line so I could use the push-lock AN fittings for the feed and return. The OEM return line is a 1/4" barb, not push-lock. No idea why they would make the vent line a push-lock and the return line a barb. I did cut the metal line just below the flange (that I used as the vent line).
    Hindsight,
    Subaru uses the push-locks for send and return. Subaru uses the 1/4" barb for the line feeding to the jet pump. Subaru vent is in the fill tube. You are hooked up more like I am. I capped the 1/4" barb that goes to the jet pump and have a 3/8 vent tube with roll over valve elsewhere in the tank. I'd worry about the 1/4" vent causing slow fill.

    My connections are shown below.
    Bob
    P1050097 wlabels.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 06-19-2015 at 08:18 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  9. #249
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the additional info Bob. I have mine setup exactly like yours from a feed/return standpoint. I thought the 1/4" port was for the vent... I don't even know what a jet pump is! What is it?

    From a slow fill standpoint, I think that even with a 3/8" vent tube, it won't be fast enough to allow for proper fillup. To combat this, I added a 3/4" vent on the fuel tank going up to the filler neck. Then I have this 1/4" line from the pump top going to the customer charcoal canister. I have an inline rollover valve in that vent line as well.

  10. #250
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati OH
    Posts
    3,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I don't even know what a jet pump is! What is it?
    The jet pump is the white/tan plastic thing on the side of the pump assembly.

    The return gas goes through it. I uses the venture effect to create a suction on the 1/4" port.
    In a Subaru, that hose goes to sending unit which is located on the driver side of the driveshaft hump. It pulls the gas to the fuel pump side of the hump.

    P1050051s.jpg

    The pump on the left is out of a NA car. It does not have a return hose. it uses excess fuel from the filter regulator to feed the jet pump.
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 06-19-2015 at 09:43 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  11. #251
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Odd, mine doesn't look like either of those. Mine is out of a 2007 donor. I have the fuel filter on top of the pump as shown in the picture to the left, and I have the lower white piece that has the venturi, but I don't have the upper white piece that the filter connects to.

  12. #252
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati OH
    Posts
    3,903
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    Odd, mine doesn't look like either of those. Mine is out of a 2007 donor. I have the fuel filter on top of the pump as shown in the picture to the left, and I have the lower white piece that has the venturi, but I don't have the upper white piece that the filter connects to.
    The left pump
    06 NA impreza
    in tank filter with internal regulator port
    in tank pressure regulator (FPR)
    in tank jet pump.
    fuel damper in engine bay

    The right pump
    04 Foreester FXT Turbo
    Canister filter in engine bay.
    in tank fuel damper (dark green)
    Regulator (FPR) on engine
    in tank jet pump

    I suspect you have the
    in tank filter with out regulator port
    Regulator (FPR) on engine
    in tank jet pump
    I'm not sure where your fuel damper (dark green) is.

    I think it was in 06 that Subaru went to in tank filters.

    Bob
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 06-19-2015 at 11:26 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  13. #253
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    This weekend I tried to completely finish off the fuel system but rain out of argon on my last component (welding a bung to the filler neck so the tank will vent properly when filling). Hopefully I will have time to get more gas tomorrow or Tuesday so I can wrap this up:


    All the AN-fuel line stuff is finished now. I ran the lines from the rails to the fuel pressure regulator and corrected my cris-crossed fuel pump lines. I got a little OCD on the left fuel line that goes all the way across the motor. Being a fuel line, I really didn't want it to have abrasion issues on anything so I made some little aluminum brackets and used rubber line clamps to secure the hose in a way that will prevent any rubbing.







    I also re-did the coolant hoses where the SS flexible tubes connect to the side coolant pipes. I didn't like the angle that they were forced to bend just before joining the side tubes. I'm sure it would have been fine but for $12, a new Gates 22886 hose gets you two 90 degree elbows which can be used for these joints on each side:




    I started working on the AOS setup. Really hard to find a good place to mount this thing. The bottom-most port (which drains back into the crankcase) has to be high enough that the hose connecting it to the crankcase has a continuous downward slope. The coolant line that goes to it from the turbo, and the line out the other side to the degas tank are tough too. Ultimately I think I have settled on the location shown in the pic below. I had to order some 3/4" and 5/8" PCV hose online since it's tough to find locally. Once the hoses arrive, I just need to connect it all up, cutoff the old mounting bracket, and weld on some new bracket of some sort.

  14. #254
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    What size NPT/Barb is that brass fitting? I guess it's for the vent, which side, the filler neck? Probably used the same size on the tank, then?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  15. #255
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey Frank, it's a 1/2" barb and a 1/2" NPT. I probably could have done 1/2" barb with 3/8" NPT as well. I put it on the left side of the filler neck (front side) at about the 10:00 position if you are looking at the gas cap. The barb points downward and the hose then goes over to the side of the tank. I'm not proud of the welding work on the bung! I had really bad shielding issues, partly because my argon tank ran out and it took me a second to figure it out, and partly because I had a large gap to fill where the bung meets the tube and I think that was giving me shielding issues as well. I back purged it and that seemed to resolve the issue.


  16. #256
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Nepa
    Posts
    685
    Post Thanks / Like
    does that work as a vent and kick the gas pump off when its full?

  17. #257
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Sorry samiam, I didn't see your post to now. Yes, the added vent is to ensure air can escape as it is displaced by fuel and also ensures fuel doesn't kick back out the filler neck.

    Had some company over the weekend but I was able to knock out a couple items:

    1. AOS. I cut off the brackets from it, welded on new ones, had it powder coated, then installed it on the car and hooked up most all the hoses. It's a tight fit to the hump but it works and none of the hoses will rub on anything.
    2. I finished the AWIC setup. I ended up using a 1 7/8" to 2" coupler off the compressor, then I got two 30 degree (or 45 degree, I forget) mandrel bent aluminum pipe sections and cut and welded them together, then into a 2" to 2.5" elbow, then into a 2.5" pipe section with a v-band flange for the BOV, then into a 2.5" to 3" elbow to the AWIC core. On the front side is a 30 degree reducer elbow (can't remember diameters off the top of my head). I made the intercooler mounts out of steel. Rear bolts to a trans bolt and the front two bolt to the engine-trans bolts. Very solid.

    I still need to roll some beads in the pipes then have them powder coated, and I need to drill and tap the AWIC core for pre and post air temp sensors and also for the bleeder. A buddy is sending me his bead roller to borrow so hopefully I will knock this out. I also met a guy through my wife's co-worker who does coatings for a living so I have a solid powder coating hookup now which is very nice considering the place that I used to take my stuff too saw fit to sandblast the inside of my spindles (yes, where the bearings go).







    Last edited by Hindsight; 07-28-2015 at 08:20 AM.

  18. #258
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Suisun City, CA
    Posts
    851
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post

    How are you going to bleed all of the air out of the engine cooling system?
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  19. #259
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi Jerome, I'm guessing you are saying I may have an issue bleeding due to the coolant hose going into the AOS being higher than the degas tank or the AOS itself trapping coolant? I was hoping the suction the degas tank creates would be enough to move any air in that piece of hose down into the degas tank but if it isn't, I'm out of ideas because the bottom of the AOS has to be higher than the top of the block, and oriented in such a way that the drain line from the AOS routes down to the block without any bends going upward. This is the only place I could find to mount the AOS that meets that criteria. If I mount it low enough that all parts of the coolant line are below the degas then the oil drain line won't work.

    I'm planning on using a vacuum lift system to fill the coolant so that may help, but it's possible any bubbles may find their way into the AOS and become stuck in there or in the line. Maybe I could add a bleeder valve on top of the AOS? But without knowing what the inside looks like, I'd be nervous drilling into it. I'm open to ideas!

    I guess I could change the routing to the AOS so that the turbo hose goes directly to the degas per normal, then splice the AOS between the bottom of the degas tank and the metal coolant pipe. It would still trap air if the degas tank ran low for some reason though.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 07-28-2015 at 12:14 PM.

  20. #260
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Maybe I'm misinterpreting the picture but is your AOS system connected to your coolant degas tank? The degas tank must be the highest point in the coolant system for the air to be properly bled, as I think Jerome is alluding to.

  21. #261
    Member CNC_Geek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    95
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank818 View Post
    What size NPT/Barb is that brass fitting? I guess it's for the vent, which side, the filler neck? Probably used the same size on the tank, then?
    Soon as I saw this it made perfect sense. My kit doesn't have any sort of breather. Was this provided by FFR or did you learn about it somewhere else? I have the same fuel tank shape but no breather port in the tank other than the small OEM vent tube.

  22. #262
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    STiPWRD: Yeah it is connected to the degas tank and yes, the degas tank is no longer the highest point.

    CNC_Geek: This was not provided by FFR. I bought a steel weld-on NPT bung, drilled a hole in the top of the tank and welded the bung in place. I welded a 2" aluminum extension pipe to the filler cap and added a weld in aluminum bung to that. Then added brass NPT-Barb fittings to the bungs and connected with fuel hose. This is Wayne's idea which I copied.

  23. #263
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Why is the AOS connected to the coolant system? I thought an air oil separator system was essentially an oil catch can that instead of collecting oil, it sucked up oil vapors and drained the liquid oil back into the block. Am I way off here? What's the coolant doing, helping condense the oil vapor?

  24. #264
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    What's the coolant doing, helping condense the oil vapor?
    You got it right. The older versions didn't have coolant connections. It's a feature of the new model to help it do its job. Worse case scenario is that I just block off the coolant fittings on the AOS and run it without the aid of coolant. I've e-mailed Crawford to see if they have any advice, given the non-standard implementation.

  25. #265
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Shelton, CT
    Posts
    1,011
    Post Thanks / Like
    That's all looking like a very clean install!

    How many things are left before the first start?
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  26. #266
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Nepa
    Posts
    685
    Post Thanks / Like
    where did you source the aluminum bung from? thx

  27. #267
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Tamra.

    Technically all that's left before first start is to wire it and install+plumb the radiator. But being the way I am, I will probably do all that plus exhaust, brake+clutch hydraulics, and AWIC front heat exchanger with plumbing before I do the first start, unless I get impatient.

    Samiam1017, I get the bungs generally from either Summit or Amazon. I like Vibrant brand best.

  28. #268
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Shelton, CT
    Posts
    1,011
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just the wiring huh? ;p

    Pretty sure we had a straight pipe (no muffler or cat), brake, and clutch hydraulics done, but no AWIC since it wasn't necessary. If it's easily removable, it's easier to fix any leaks you hopefully won't encounter... once it's filled with fluid it's kind of a pain to drain and remove.
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  29. #269
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yeah, haha, I am being a bit dismissive of the wiring. Only because I've done it before long ago. I swapped a 1990 VW Corrado engine into an '83 Rabbit GTI and did all the wiring on that back around 1997. So I think this shouldn't be too difficult but it will probably take me a month or two due to the limited time I have available to work on it.

    Good point about the AWIC system. I do plan on filling it with an air-lift tool so that should hopefully make filling easier.

  30. #270
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm still on the fence about the AOS. Crawford tech support assured me it wouldn't be an issue by my brain still tells me it could trap air. I unmounted the AOS last night and found that I can actually move it low enough but if I do, I will have to re-do the brackets, have it re-powder coated, change-up the hoses, and it won't work if I ever go with a rotated turbo since it will be right in the way. Even if I go with a larger stock-location turbo like a Dom 1.5xtr, the AOS may not fit where I would have to move it to.

    I'm open to input.....
    Last edited by Hindsight; 07-29-2015 at 01:11 PM.

  31. #271
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    Are you dead set on using an AOS? I feel like coolant system function and turbo selection trumps oil ventilation system. I knew there wasn't going to be tons of space in this engine bay so I just went with 2 oil catch cans (one for heads, one for block) feeding off intake vacuum.

  32. #272
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Yeah, I really want to keep it. I don't want any oil in my intercooler or intake air.

    I could just run without coolant flow to it which is how the Gen1 versions of the AOS were built, but I will end up with some sludge buildup (from condensation) inside it that I may have to manually drain. I'm leaning toward lowering the AOS then raising the degas tank a little. I'm already using Mechie's degas tank relocator so it's pretty simple to raise the tank an inch or so which is about all I would need. I guess I can do that now and deal with a bigger turbo when the times comes. Who knows, the dominator 1.5 may fit fine with where I put the AOS.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 07-29-2015 at 01:37 PM.

  33. #273
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Suisun City, CA
    Posts
    851
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just temporarily lower the AOS while you bleed the coolant. Once it's properly bled, just mount it where you want it.
    818S - #67 (SOLD IT!)
    Delivered: 18 November 2013
    Go Karted: 29 December 2013
    Titled/Registered: 28 March 2014
    Finished: NEVER!
    341 hp @ 4844 RPM / 389 tq @ 3717 RPM

  34. #274
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Jerome.

    I think I've settled on getting some clear 1/2" silicone hose and using that for the coolant lines to and from the AOS. This will let me see what the air/coolant is doing and tell me if I have an issue with air bubbles or air getting trapped. I'll run like that for a short time during go-kart and dyno testing and if I'm not getting air trapped in those hoses, I'll swap them back out for reinforced opaque hoses.

  35. #275
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    A friend loaned me his bead roller so I was able to finish my intake pipes.

    I'm not sure of the year to year differences but my 2007 WRX donor has the clutch slave cylinder in a really bad spot from an intake pipe standpoint. I fiddled around with various sections of bent pipes and elbows and ultimately decided the cleanest install was to cut and weld up a couple mandrel bent pipes. This is what I ended up with and it fits perfectly. The pipe/coupler off the turbo wants to hit the throttle electrical connector but I was able to set things up in such a way that the pipe is pulling away from it and leaves a 1/4" gap.

    I'll have this powder coated silver. I'm now on to the ABS pump, radiator, hoses, and brake/clutch lines.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 08-03-2015 at 07:53 PM.

  36. #276
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    QC, Canada
    Posts
    5,732
    Post Thanks / Like
    That looks really nice!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  37. #277
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Frank.

    Still waiting on my friend for the powder coating so I've put the AWIC stuff on hold and instead focused on the hydraulics and the front area.

    I fabbed up some brackets for the AWIC pump and the ABS module. For the ABS pump, I cut off the factory bracket so only the portion that the ABS unit itself mounts to was remaining, then I welded some steel bar to it and bolted it to the frame with M8 rivnuts. This way I still have all the rubber isolators for the ABS module.
    For the AWIC pump, I used a padded pump mount that I think I got from Summit, and welded it to some 16ga steel then attached it to the frame with M8 rivnuts.




    I modified Mike's master cylinder relocator kit because I didn't feel comfortable with the zip tie holding the locking plate to the master. I think someone else did something similar and that's where I got the idea, but I just welded some 1/8" aluminum pieces to both sides of the locking plate so I could re-use the factory spring pin. Very secure now. I then installed the master cylinder and clutch cylinder:




    Next I need to run all the hydraulic lines. Does anyone see any issue with mounting the Wilwood proportioning valves like shown in the picture below? With the hood up, I should be able to reach them just fine and I won't be adjusting them often. I'm mostly asking to see if there is anything that these will be in the way of later.


  38. #278
    Senior Member TouchStone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    512
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    1
    Two prop valves?
    818S Chassis #288 2.5L 323hp
    Ordered: 9/19/14 Received Kit: 11/2/14 First Start: 5/31/15 First Drive: 6/7/15 Registered: 3/10/2016 Completed: 2/10/2017
    Status: Complete Build Thread Sold 9/22/2017
    joshuajach.com

  39. #279
    Moonlight Performance
    Hindsight's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    3,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TouchStone View Post
    Two prop valves?
    Yea, I'm running ABS which means the lines to the front brakes are separated instead of being on a single line with a splitter tee. This requires me to have one prop valve per front caliper line.

    There have been others who have changed the routing so the they can put a single prop valve between one of the two lines that runs from the master to the ABS pump, but doing so requires you to run one of your front calipers on one of the rear ports and then change the wheel speed sensor wiring around and that just isn't something I wanted to do.

  40. #280
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    1,362
    Post Thanks / Like
    I mounted mine pretty close tho that location, but My knobs are up. I was going to create bezel and put holes in the aluminum block off cover. I can adjust them from inside the car. My abs unit is down where your is.

Page 7 of 39 FirstFirst ... 5678917 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Stewart Transport

Visit our community sponsor