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Thread: Hindsight's build thread

  1. #1
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    Hindsight's build thread

    My kit completion date was completed on 7/12. Stewart should have it here next week, I hope.

    Donor is a 2007 WRX I found on the Insurance Auto Actions site, from Austin Texas. Has only 65k miles on it. It has a few mods done to it which is both good and bad (good because most of the stuff is good brands, bad because it was probably driven hard). When it arrived, two of the tires were off the bead. Today I had the chance to take them into a tire shop and have them fixed which allowed me to take the car for a test drive. It runs, drives, shifts, brakes, and steers perfectly. Sounds good too.



    I'll be driving this one on the street and maybe a few HPDE track days. It will mostly be stock at first, except for wheels/tires (wide as I can go without body mods), a Quaife LSD, racing seats, an AWIC, and a Cobb Access Port with a tune (plus a few other common mods). Once I enjoy the car like that for a while and get everything really dialed in, I'll upgrade to get somewhere between 350-400WHP.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 02-09-2015 at 04:25 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member wallace18's Avatar
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    Nice donor. Enjoy the build.

  3. #3
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    Another one starting the fun.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 GT3582R ~400whp/wtq+
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  5. #5
    Nice trunk delete!

    Welcome! I couldn't help but chuckle at your donor's, um, shape considering your forum name.
    Last edited by Goldwing; 07-27-2014 at 08:15 PM.
    Rich

    818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
    Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldwing View Post
    I couldn't help but chuckle at your donor's, um, shape considering your forum name.
    Hahaha, I didn't think about that. I got a lot of strange looks driving it around the other day.

  7. #7
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    Kit showed up today. Packing list shows that only a few things were on back order and I just got a Fedex shipment notification with an e-mail from FF stating the rest of the parts are coming. I need to double check that and do the full inventory but I'm pretty happy that it seems I have everything I need out of the kit.

    I'm a bit nervous about the roll bar height though. I've been paying very close attention to the conversations and build threads about getting the seats lower and leaning them back... basically anything that can be done to keep your head under the roll bar. With me just sitting upright on the frame, no seat, my head is about 1" below the broomstick. A helmet is going to take up that 1" and a seat, even if bolted to the floor, is going to raise things up as well even if I get a thin one. Hopefully I can recline a bit but I tend to like driving in a more upright position so we'll see what happens.


  8. #8
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    I got the padded dash and door panels. They look pretty nice. Probably better than I could do on my own. If anyone wants to see pics, let me know and I will post some before putting them in storage and out of the way of the build.

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    Yes, please post pics of the padded dash and door panels. Are they fiber glass?
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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    I can't tell if they are fiberglass..... it almost seems like they are injection molded plastic but there are what look like brush strokes or something on them - maybe that's just from the mold they made? I dunno. I took a pic of an area they cut/sanded on the underside in hopes of someone being able to tell. Looks like plastic to me.

    The padding is very thin..... 1/16" or less, but I don't think that's a bad thing. It does have an OEM look and feel to it. I'm very happy with them except the dash has a big scratch right above the instrument cluster. It doesn't go through the material but scuffs it and can't be removed by wiping with water or vinylex. I'll probably call FFR and see if they'll send me a new one. There aren't any wrinkles on any of the parts so they did a great job of adhering the covering to the panels. I think it's a very worthwhile upgrade. I may add an inlaid panel of some sort to the face of the dash and the recessed part of the door panels (carbon fiber or something).

    Here are the pics:







  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I'm very happy with them except the dash has a big scratch right above the instrument cluster. It doesn't go through the material but scuffs it and can't be removed by wiping with water or vinylex. I'll probably call FFR and see if they'll send me a new one.
    My first padded dash had four big gouges on the passenger side. They replaced that no problem. The replacement has a pretty big dimple right in the big smooth area - I haven't called to have it replaced yet as I'm hoping it will relax and flatten all by itself. The biggest downside to this part is that it can't be repaired.

  12. #12
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    Really wow..... maybe I should just stick to the dash with the small scuff-scratch on it and not take the chance on another one arriving in worse shape? Aside from that scuff, it's basically perfect.

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the pics, Hindsight. These look like a nice upgrade.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  14. #14
    The vinyl padding looks kind of green/grayish, is that just the lighting?

  15. #15
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    It's a bit grayish yes, but def not green. It's a dark-grey.... would look black in low light and dark grey in high light. Heh, hope that makes sense. Even the black vinyl interior parts on a new car aren't jet black... they all have a slight gray tinge to them.... this is the same IMHO.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 09-08-2014 at 07:05 PM.

  16. #16
    Awesome, thanks! I'll add it to the "need to decide what I want to do" list...

    Looking forward to the rest of your build, my plans are very similar to yours. Nice snag on the donor, too! That's my dream donor car right there.

  17. #17
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    I haven't been able to start on it as fast as I had hoped. So far I have spent most of my limited project-time getting my garage and shed ready (getting rid of stuff I didn't need, making room, organizing, installing HO T5 lighting). My estimate as to how much time I could spend on the weekdays was off..... due to work, commute, and a Great Dane puppy, I basically have 0 time on the weekdays. Weekends are going to be my only project time and of course, other things compete for that time as well.

    So far I have managed to finish the inventory of the kit and aside from a few very minor pieces, everything is there. Another three hours of work on the garage and shed and I should be ready to start ripping the donor car apart. I'll post a lot more often once I get going.

  18. #18
    Senior Member riptide motorsport's Avatar
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    Those are some nice looking panels, wish they had something like those for the coupe.
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  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I haven't been able to start on it as fast as I had hoped. So far I have spent most of my limited project-time getting my garage and shed ready (getting rid of stuff I didn't need, making room, organizing, installing HO T5 lighting). My estimate as to how much time I could spend on the weekdays was off..... due to work, commute, and a Great Dane puppy, I basically have 0 time on the weekdays. Weekends are going to be my only project time and of course, other things compete for that time as well.

    So far I have managed to finish the inventory of the kit and aside from a few very minor pieces, everything is there. Another three hours of work on the garage and shed and I should be ready to start ripping the donor car apart. I'll post a lot more often once I get going.
    The prep is going to be one of the biggest parts for mine too, my house has a 3 car garage FULL of stuff. If you have any tips for organization, tools needed, et cetera, that would be good too!

  20. #20
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    A MIG welder would come in REALLY handy but I will just borrow my brother's for the couple times I need to use it (most likely pedal cluster-related tasks). A drill press is going to come in really handy. I found a big old one on CL. Shop press will be handy too but not required. Aside from that, a good set of hand tools that include torque wrenches should suffice.

    Biggest thing for me was to make it bright, organized, and spacious. Home Depot sells a dual 4' T5HO fixture for cheap. Four of them with 8 T5HO bulbs comes out to about $215. More than enough light for a 2-car garage. Might throw in 2 more if you have a 3-car garage. The difference good lighting makes cannot be overstated.

    Here are the light fixtures: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-...10PS/203137160

    I got rid of everything I really didn't need and either sold it or gave it to Goodwill. You don't want to trip over your donor parts and body panels and boxes of 818 stuff so I cleaned/organized my shed and am putting all the body panels out there. Home Depot sells white 12" deep melamine shelves for cheap, and has brackets that support 200lbs each for around $1.50 each as well. I lined one entire side wall of the garage with 5 rows of these shelves. Cheaper than cabinets and more flexible. Everything that hasn't been used in the last 6 or 9 months (camping gear, insecticides, etc) got moved out to the shed and the shelves are dedicated to 818 parts from the boxes, and other things like glues and materials.

    The stuff in boxes from the kit can be compressed down into a very, very small space. When you inventory the boxes you can just put the parts on the shelves. It takes up a lot less space than you think!

    You can see the donor and kit here, plus part of the shelving I put in on the left side wall. I still have a few things to move from these shelves to the shed. Note how bright it is!

    Last edited by Hindsight; 09-09-2014 at 01:59 PM.

  21. #21
    Senior Member flynntuna's Avatar
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    Congrats! I'm in the process of clearing out the garage too, having the wife on board helps a lot. It's slow going( anything tossed or given away must have the approval of she who must be obeyed) lol. We're both getting some thing from it though, I get an 818 she gets a basement remodel.

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by flynntuna View Post
    Congrats! I'm in the process of clearing out the garage too, having the wife on board helps a lot. It's slow going( anything tossed or given away must have the approval of she who must be obeyed) lol. We're both getting some thing from it though, I get an 818 she gets a basement remodel.
    That's EXACTLY the approach I'm taking.

    Hindsight, thanks for the tips. Lighting is definitely a problem in our garage at the moment that will need to be addressed. I also wish I had the fortitude to just either get rid of things or send them to Goodwill. That's tough! Shelving and organizers may be necessary too, so thanks for that help. A shed may be in our future...
    Last edited by mjazzka; 10-20-2014 at 10:01 PM.

  23. #23
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    Long time no update. Took a while to get all the other to-do stuff done before I could really, really start focusing on the car.

    I started maybe two weeks ago, and have maybe 2 hours one weeknight a week to work, and about 8 hours total over each weekend. So in roughly 20 hours, I've been able to get most of the donor stripped.



    Have to stop for the day now but tomorrow the engine/trans/suspension should all be out quickly (everything but the clutch line and heater core hoses have been disconnected), and then I should be able to get the fuel tank stuff out, rear suspension, and then start ripping the wiring out.

    I've taken a LOT of time along the way to disassemble things (like the doors), take good pictures, and post the pics and items for sale on nabisco. It slowed me down some but that isn't the kind of activity I want to keep having to come back to. Good to get it over with quickly and put the parts on a dark shelf somewhere out of the way.

    For those who will sell their items, Greyhound appears to be a good and economical option for shipping large items that UPS/Fedex won't take (seats, maybe even a dash, door cards etc). I haven't tried them yet but I might have one of my seats sold and if I do, I'll ship it Greyhound.

    I'm guessing I probably have another solid 12 hours or so to get to the point where I'm ready to take the remains of the donor to the metal recycling place.

    My rear control arms appear to have been damaged in the accident so I'm going to pick up a set of Wayne's offset arms once I remove mind and triple check to ensure they are in fact damaged. Wayne's arms will allow me more flexibility when it comes to wheel sizes. I'll probably go with the tried and true tire sizes, but it seems like there is still a lot of grey area when it comes to wheel offsets and widths.

    Oh yeah... the donor runs and drives great, but I had a really scary experience a week ago when I took it out for it's last drive as a WRX. I was doing a WOT run in 2nd gear and when I let off the gas around 5,000 rpms, it kept accelerating at WOT! The pedal wouldn't come up. It took me about 3-4 seconds to figure out what was happening, meanwhile the thing is just bouncing off the rev-limiter which really made me cringe. The stupid floor mat had come loose and had wedged itself against the gas pedal which caused it to stick wide open. I pulled the mat out quickly and everything was fine after that, but ugh, not fun.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 09-27-2014 at 04:29 PM.

  24. #24
    Senior Member Rasmus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    My rear control arms appear to have been damaged in the accident...
    That's probably not from the accident but from the way salvage yards move the cars. They forklift 'em up from the rear. When the rear tires come off the ground the springs are still pushing down. Pushing what down? The lateral links into the forklift tongs. Then they go bouncing around the salvage yard 'til they find a spot to put the car.
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  25. #25
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    Ahhh, that makes sense. I have seen them do that at CoPart. I think I must have just blocked it out of my mind. A lot can be damaged that way. I guess I will count myself lucky if the only damage is the control arm.

  26. #26
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    Engine and transmission are out of the car and sitting on some wood blocks:


    I used a reciprocating saw to cut out the core support and the front of the bumper rails to make it easier to pull the engine and transmission forward out of the vehicle. You can see what I cut out in the pic.

    For those of you who sold donor parts.... did you find you sold more off of NASIOC, eBay, Craig's List, or somewhere else?
    Last edited by Hindsight; 09-28-2014 at 06:08 PM.

  27. #27
    Nice, engine looks pretty clean.

    All my sales have been through NASIOC. Mostly from the local/regional forum. Only had a few items sold on the whole car part out forum.
    818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
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  28. #28
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    Thanks Mike, I didnt think to post it in the regional forum.

  29. #29
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    For those of you who sold donor parts.... did you find you sold more off of NASIOC, eBay, Craig's List, or somewhere else?
    Sold most of my donor items on CL and only a few items on ebay. Made over $5k but some of the parts were aftermarket

  30. #30
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    $5k?! Still...... that's insane. Must have been a pretty nice donor with a lot of nice aftermarket parts. Mine is just "ok". Low miles but obviously some kid had it so they did a number of wonky mods (like blacking out the inside of the headlights) and didn't take great care of the interior so.....

    I'm nervous to do CL.... around here people keep getting shot over Playstations.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I'm nervous to do CL.... around here people keep getting shot over Playstations.
    Many years ago I used to sell electronics on CL, but I wouldn't now; small, high value items seem to draw the felons out! I only sell locally for big heavy items which for which shipping isn't cost-effective; small things, I eBay and ship. Used car parts seem to be pretty safe though... just meet in a public space and don't go alone. I just sold my donor's wheels on CL to a nice guy; Funny story... waiting for him to show up I told my wife "he's here, the car that just pulled into the parking lot", "how do you know that; you can't even see it yet", "cause it sounds like a Subaru!"

  32. #32
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Yea, gotta be careful with CL but it sure beats shipping heavy items. I've had pretty good experiences thus far but every city is different.

  33. #33
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    Had some time today to work on the 818. Got the carpet, e-Brake, and rear drivetrain removed. Rear drivetrain is now also disassembled.

    Not much left of the donor car now (and look how bright it is in here lol. I love my shop lights):





    I had to do a double take when I removed the rear brake discs and found drum brake shoes sitting under there. I've never come across that before. I quickly realized it's there for the e-brake but on all the other cars I've worked on, the caliper has a built in mechanism for the e-Brake so the e-Brake uses the discs. Seems odd to add all the weight, number of parts, and complexity on a whole drum brake setup just for the parking brake. The last time I worked on drum brakes was like 22 years ago on a '68 VW bug (my first car). I have a lot of fond memories of the car but none of them related to the drum brakes! At least I don't have to worry about them being used to stop the car.

    I have a full set of wheel bearings and seals, ARP wheel studs, and rear lower control arms (one of mine was bent) on the way since that will be the first part of the 818 to assemble. I need to get some new rotors and pads too.

    One question on the 2WD conversion procedure: The FF manual shows you removing the nut (with washer), then an outer bearing and splined collar, then the inner thrust bearing. Between the collar and the thrust bearing, I had a big spacer-washer. In the pic below, the parts are in order with the left side part being inner-most on the transmission. I removed all this, installed the FF provided adapter collar, then added the washer, and nut on top of that. In the pic below, the manual doesn't mention or show the spacer between the collar and thrust bearing. I'm pretty sure I am supposed to remove it but just wanted to check and make sure before I bolt the rear cover back in place.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 10-04-2014 at 08:08 PM.

  34. #34
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    Finished taking everything I needed from the donor today, which I count as a major milestone, even if it means I haven't yet STARTED on the actual 818 lol. Wiring harness and fuel pump were the last things I needed to remove and after I got those out, I started cutting the shell up with a recip saw. I am really surprised how heavy the sections I've cut up are.

    Started out with this:


    Made it a convertible for kicks:


    This is where I stopped today:


    Box-O-Wires:




    Current plan is to borrow my brother in law's trailer, load the cut up body into it, and take it to the metal recycler. But at nine cents a pound, I might get $80 for it or so. Not sure that is worth the 4 hours of driving involved in all that so I may just put it on the curb for the scrap metal guys who drive around.

    I can't wait to reclaim the half of the garage that the donor occupied. With all the parts I pulled from the donor car laying around, plus the 818, it's beginning to get extremely messy in there.

  35. #35
    4 hours to get to a scrap yard? Crazy!
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  36. #36
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    The scrap yard is only 15 mins away but my brother's trailer is 45 minutes each way. Just getting to the trailer, back, and then returning it and coming back is a solid 3 hours. Makes me want my own trailer, except then I'd have to find a place to store it.
    Last edited by Hindsight; 10-12-2014 at 07:31 AM.

  37. #37
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    The scrap yard is only 15 mins away but my brother's trailer is 45 minutes each way. Just getting to the trailer, back, and then returning it and coming back is a solid 3 hours. Makes me want my own trailer, except then I'd have to find a place to store it.
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  38. #38
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    That's a great idea, although after the $24 in sawzall blades it took to chop the car up, plus a $25 trailer rental, I'd be at the break even point haha. I'll make something work... maybe trick my brother into bringing the trailer over here or something in exchange for BBQ.

    The donor car is no more. Everything is removed and the shell cut to pieces. Now I will finish listing all the stuff on Nabisco, CL, and eBay, do a little organization, and get started assembling the 818.

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Hindsight View Post
    I had to do a double take when I removed the rear brake discs and found drum brake shoes sitting under there. I've never come across that before. I quickly realized it's there for the e-brake but on all the other cars I've worked on, the caliper has a built in mechanism for the e-Brake so the e-Brake uses the discs. Seems odd to add all the weight, number of parts, and complexity on a whole drum brake setup just for the parking brake. The last time I worked on drum brakes was like 22 years ago on a '68 VW bug (my first car). I have a lot of fond memories of the car but none of them related to the drum brakes! At least I don't have to worry about them being used to stop the car.
    This is actually very common now. Most GMs are also this way.
    When you add the Ebrake to the caliper, it also adds complexity... doing it with the drum in the middle leaves the caliper free to work only as a simple hydraulic caliper.. no e-brake parts sticking. While I hate dealing with the drum during rotor swaps, its still preferable to messing with a stuck caliper.

  40. #40
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    So I come to find out that the local metal recycler requires that you give them the title for the scrap vehicle you are handing over to them, even if the vehicle is cut to pieces. I have the title and it's signed over but I don't want to give it to them in case I need it to prove ownership for when I do my 818 vehicle registration.

    Any time I have had extra bags of garbage on my curb, someone goes through them in the middle of the night and removes all the scrap metal so I'm assuming there is a guy who drives through the neighborhood once a week doing this. I guess I will leave him a present.... an entire car, one chunk each week for two months.

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