Hindsight's build thread

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My exhaust seems to end up in a different place every time it is reassembled. at one time it was in the middle.
ext.jpg

[Aero STI]

Great news on the exhaust smell front. I'm going to have to consider doing the same.

[Frank818]

Hey Jeff, on your bumpsteer you said you had 46-47mm shims. Is that the length between the spindle and the rod end's ball joint?
I'm looking at that length. I am building my own like Tony, Mitch, FrankR...

[Hindsight]

Frank, yes that is correct. Let me know if you need shims... I found some for cheap online that are the right ID and OD for 5/8" bolt.

[Frank818]

Tnx a lot Jeff! Yeah I'd like to know, I found a few but they don't seem to be a perfect fit. Especially for those under 1/4 which I'd like to have a bunch of so I can be more precise on the adjustment.

With these shims I think my DYI kit would be complete and I'd shoot out the orders.

[Hindsight]

http://pitstopusa.com/c-132400-chass...ngs-studs.html

[Frank818]

Wow there's a lot of good stuff here! Too bad they don't sell the sleeves outside a kit but for spacers it's awesome. Now I see where Mitch got his 50mm wide conical spacer.

For people outside US, that place does not ship to you. Would need a friend from the States to take delivery and ship outside US, that's not a problem for me.

As soon as I get one of the 2 shipping quotes I asked on the sleeves yesterday I'll start ordering, with spacers from Pit-Stop. Tnx a lot!

[Frank818]

Jeff, do you think hardened aluminum rod ends are suitable for this application? They say it's has as much strenght as steel but at half the weight and it's not that expensive.

[Frank818]

Jeff it's me again. lolll When you added shims and tested your bump steer, what happened when you added more than 47mm? Was it bad?
I could cut costs a lot by having 48mm on both sides.

[nkw8181]

I have seen that as well. if you take the turbo off or change it then the position can really change. I have to adjust my opening

My exhaust seems to end up in a different place every time it is reassembled. at one time it was in the middle.
ext.jpg

[Hindsight]

Frank, sorry for delay. I would not use aluminum rod ends! Definitely use steel. Aluminum threaded tubes are ok for the tie rod couplers though... that is what Baer provides with their kit. I would be extremely nervous about aluminum rod-ends failing under load and if that happened, you would very likely have a nasty crash, and it would most likely happen at the worst possible time. Just think of years of work down the drain!

I answered your PM about the spacers. Get a bunch and do it right. Otherwise you won't see much benefit.

[Hindsight]

Year end reflections on the car...... Not many updates lately. Haven't had time to work on it at all. I did finally add some quick latches to the front-sides of my engine cover since I modified it to fit my custom roll bar.




The exhaust is still great. I've been driving it less due to the extreme cold weather here. I did some 1/4 mile testing using my Cobb Accessport and the numbers had to be off since the best 1/4 mile I could get was like 13.0 or something like that. I need to get to a drag strip.

Looking forward to seeing how the suspension changes I made work on the track and affect corner balance and corner exit power.

Looking at the car, the lack of a front splitter really bugs me. Makes the front look very kit-car when you can look through the radiator opening and see the ground and especially the tires. Hoping to get the splitter on this winter. Still need to get the surge tank in before the next track section too but that's going to take a long time to do properly. Also need to box in my air filter to the side scoop like Tamra & Andrew did. And need to get front splash guards in so I stop wrecking my racing seats with all the crap that gets thrown up into the car.

Also, my engine is using a ton of oil so I think a new engine will be in my future. I don't see any smoke but it sure consumes a lot.

Looking forward to 2017 and hopefully finding some more time to complete some more mods.

[Hindsight]

Got the front splitter on today. Went with an FFR one for now. I just don't have time to make my own but I will probably do one down the road. I ordered some adjustable supports for it and they should show up by next weekend. Also need to fab up a support for the rear of the splitter, to tie it into the radiator frame. Lots more to get done this winter.....

[Frank818]

Hey you pulled one here! We weren't expecting you to get this expensive but AWESOME new gen splitter (or maybe I missed a post). It looks amazing!

And I believe you fitted it about 3" out?


Happy New Y, man!

[Aero STI]

To support the rear of the splitter I got two long grade 8 bolts, 5-7 inches. Then I cut some aluminum tube to length for a spacer between the splitter and the square tubing above. It was a piece of cake and stiffened the whole thing up nicely.

[Wayne Presley]

Nice looking splitter, if you stick it out a bunch you'll need the supports.

[frankc5r]

With it stuck out that far, you may need more rear downforce from rear spoiler or diffuser to balance car. See if it feels loose. Looks great!!

[Hindsight]

Thanks guys. Frank, I believe I have the older gen splitter. For my purposes, I didn't need the newer one that looks nicer because it's just going to get banged up on the track. I've already dinged it once (a tiny bit) pulling my ultra-low profile jack out from under it. And yeah, it is sitting at about 3" stick-out right now. I will see how it works/feels. I do have the rear spoiler ("S" version) installed. I won't be able to test the aero affects until the next track day which I believe is in March.

Andrew, thanks for the input on the bracing. I was going to do something kind of similar... running an aluminum L bar across the two radiator support bars, horizontally, then bolting the splitter into that in several places. Your way would be more simple though.

Wayne, thanks for the deal on the splitter!

I bought some side skirts quite a while ago and finally got around to polishing them today with a buffer and some rubbing compound. I will see if I can't get them installed tomorrow. More of an appearance mod than a functional one, I think, though they may help a little. Going to be a bit of a pain installing them now that the side sails are in, since I will need to try to pull the side sails far enough out to press in some new rivnuts into the frame. Not sure that is going to be doable with the door latches in but I will give it a shot.

On a slightly 818-related note, I finally have an appointment with VW to complete the buy-back of my daily driver (2013 Passat TDI) which is affected by the emissions scandal. My plan is to replace it either with an F-150 (so I can get a trailer and tow the 818 to the track), or a Honda Accord Hybrid (cheaper and more responsible lol). Leaning toward the F-150. I don't have a good place to store a car trailer though and don't want to blow $100 a month on trailer storage either.... so that's something I have to consider.

[Scargo]

It does look good but if it were me I would put it out at six inches and really let it do some good! Seems like the car should understeer quite a bit at lower speeds as they are normally weighted. Then you will have to get a wing...but, what do I know?
I know the trailer/truck dilemma. I have room for my 13' Featherlite though. I have a Dodge Dakota 6 which barely gets the job done on some of the hills around here with my 3000 lb. STi. For a while I rented Uhaul trailers but they are overkill, heavy and only have the self-contained braking. I also worried about the condition of some of the trailers for some of my 600 mile jaunts.
Is this really going to see some street use? Good work. Carry on.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Glyn. I would stick it out further but even at 3", I am pretty nervous about not being able to make it over speed bumps and into and out of driveways etc. The car does get a lot of street use. I like to take it on ~1 hour drives in the evenings and I take it to car shows and meetups. I would totally skip a trailer and just drive it to the track but I cant take tools, fluids, tents, chairs, and other things that way, and of course if it breaks on the track then I have to pay for an expensive tow home.

My dream is to get the truck and trailer. Then add some additional roll cage (door bars, and a front roll-bar like the "R" model has), and then make it so I can easily remove the windshield and replace it with the "R" windscreen so a rear wing could be effective. This way I can convert between street and track. At that point though, I'd be getting really serious about tracking it which would also mean getting slicks, which would mean getting a dry dump. Stuff is starting to add up quick. I've also been considering just keeping this as a street car and either building, or joining an existing Chumpcar team to get my road racing fix. Decisions, decisions.

[Scargo]

Oh, I hear that! I have my STi ready to go back on the track in the spring and I intend to be back working on the 818 if my doc gives me the all-clear tomorrow.
My goal is to sell the STi track car/ST2 race car and drive the 818R for track days. My DD is a Prius, of all things. I am trying to remedy that by buying a 2007 STi that would be my street toy and all-weather car but could be a backup track day car. It's not fun when the car is broke and you're not getting your fix.
The person with the most toys when they die wins!

[tmoretta]

Does anyone else, besides me, worry about the 818 as a track car in possible inclement weather? If I need to drive home in the rain after a track day will my gauges/ecu/other connections etc. become inoperative? And, using an open trailer for transport is no better with the 818. I don't like the option of the convertible top or coupe roof because of the lack of engine compartment access inherent in the design of both.

[Hindsight]

Bob fully waterproofed his... in the sense that it's able to be drive in the rain and get completely wet. That's really the only way to do it if you don't have an enclosed trailer. Personally, I will go the enclosed trailer route if I decide to race it often. I will never drive it in the rain.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob fully waterproofed his... in the sense that it's able to be drive in the rain and get completely wet. That's really the only way to do it if you don't have an enclosed trailer. Personally, I will go the enclosed trailer route if I decide to race it often. I will never drive it in the rain.

One time towing our 818 home from NCM on an open trailer. It was raining so hard, We could not see, so we stopped for dinner while the 818 sat out in pouring rain for an hour. No issue.
Bob

[Scargo]

You can buy, or get made, a "get you home" cover. I saw one mentioned recently for a British car, not unlike ours. The feature was that it took up very little space.
Perhaps you have to have some clips, snaps or Velcro placed around in strategic spots.

[Hindsight]

That's a good option Glyn..... the only issue with towing with a car cover on is that it will scratch the body up pretty bad (all that rubbing of the cover against dirt on the body). If it's a true race-car, then it doesn't really matter. But I like to be able to show my 818 off a bit at the car shows so that prevents me from going the car-cover or the water-proofing route. You have the right idea with the multiple vehicles hah, one for each specific purpose.

[RM1SepEx]

Just find a used 8.5 wide 16 ft long enclosed trailer. I spent $3000 for mine, added 200w of solar panels etc and I have both a trailer to transport, a camper using air mattress, led lighting and 12v for cooler etc. Doubles as a single car garage and tows easy with my 6 cyl ext cab silverado

[Hindsight]

You have any issues tying your 818 down in such a short trailer? I think the enclosed trailer I borrowed from a friend for one race last year was 19' and it was pretty tight in there, to tie the car down. Not much room for tools and other equipment besides the car. No cabinets, etc.

[Wayne Presley]

I use a 20 foot enclosed to haul cars and a 32 foot gooseneck for the track. I just sold my 16 Vnose trailer and I used it for years cor the cobra and 818. Put E track down to tie down the 818, use the over the tire straps.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Wayne. I was looking at 24' trailers which would be a real pain to find a place to store at my house.... so knowing I could get away with a 16 or 20 is good insight.

[Wayne Presley]

I have a 2011 20' Wells Cargo for sale with 2000 miles on it max. Recessed Etrack, ramps diamond plate, work bench, lighting, back up camera, electric tongue jack and drivers side escape door. $7000

[RM1SepEx]

My 16 foot V nose still has room in front of the nose. Like Wayne I have E tracks on the floor but for the 818 I use the large bolt through the frame D rings. I'm using those straps that go through the rims and crisscross the straps. I use wheel chocks as well and it doesn't move. 16 foot with a V nose is the minimum size, we attempted an old E30 with a 14 foot trailer and it was too short. My Silverado is a base truck with only a 6000 lb towing capacity so the all aluminum 16 foot is perfectly sized. I have room to stand up a shifter kart in the trailer at the same time. I also have a cabinet in the V that is permanently stocked for racing with tools, jacks, my Quickjack, camping with a stereo, DVD player, two 185 AH storage batteries, charging stations for the shifters, my 24 volt scooters etc... I have a portable shower, a portable hammock, two 10 foot easy ups and those folding camping chairs too. Longer is nice but towing and parking space makes the 16 foot trailer perfect for me. I can use the solar panels to trickle charge my Miata stored in it for the winter. It's coming out soon to tow my neighbors MG TD to the shop in a week or two.

BTW Wayne, that's a nice trailer!

[Wayne Presley]

BTW Wayne, that's a nice trailer!

The 818 with race splitter just drives in...

[RM1SepEx]

Mine just drives in too with the same splitter though my ramps are not as nice. I need to position my ramps for kart loading too. Is that trailer all aluminum or steel framed?

[Wayne Presley]

Steel frame

[Hindsight]

Got the splitter supports in place today. I still need some black sleeves for the inner two supports but will need to cut those to custom length since the ones that came with it were too short.

I also made a support bracket for the back of the splitter out of some angle aluminum with an extension piece welded to it. Makes the splitter rock solid.

Looking in the radiator area, it is going to be a real challenge to add ducting to seal it off. There are a lot of obstructions around the headlight area that will make it difficult to seal against. I am also tempted, to make things easier on myself (from a ducting standpoint), to just run the duct plates to the AWIC heat exchanger only. It will mean there is about 2.5" of engine radiator that doesn't get airflow but otherwise it's going to be a real pain in the rear.

Has anyone installed the carbon fiber rocker panel extensions and if so, how did you attach? I figured I would just drill through them into the side sails and then into the frame but now I am realizing that they aren't wide enough to even reach the frame. The only thing I can come up with that doesn't involve complete removal of the side sail is to use some sort of hex-head wood screws to screw it into the fiberglass side sail and hope I don't hit a coolant pipe in the process.

[FFRSpec72]

Looks great, I have not added any supports yet, not sure I will need them, what supports did you use just in case I need to add this ?

[Hindsight]

Thanks. It was a real challenge to find supports that were short enough for the middle. Most supports are a lot longer, even adjustable.

I found these non-adjustable ones on eBay. They ended up being a hair to short, but also ended up being adjustable if you take them apart and remove the outer tube sleeve. http://www.ebay.com/itm/262249897354. My idea is to cut my own tube sleeve to the exact length I now know I need. The OD of the tube needs to be 7/16" and the inside needs to be 3/8". I couldn't find any aluminum tubing of that spec on McMaster.com but I did find some brass so I ordered it. After cutting to length, I will have it powder coated black. A lot of work and $ to make it right :-\ Oh one last thing about these eBay supports: They have the mounting stud built into the flange. That makes them very difficult to install. They are sold in pairs and are cheap so I bought two pairs. On one of them, I cut the studs off each mounting flange so the flanges were flat so I could use them as a mounting template, then I set them on the car where I wanted them and traced around them, then drilled the mounting hole in the center. Then I installed the non-cut version. You have to be careful about mounting them to the middle of the bumper because it can be difficult to get behind there to put a nut on it.

The outer ones are from Joes racing. Very happy with the quality. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PKANBC These use screws to mount which made them much easier to install.

Be careful when ordering the supports. The length published is not the total length. Its often the length between the pivot points of the mounting flanges. Makes it even harder to order the right size.

[Hindsight]

Well I picked up my truck this week. Decided on the F150 with the 2.7 ecoboost. I got it with the 3.73 gears and the tow package so I can haul around a 20-24 enclosed trailer for the 818. It is going to take some getting used to having a truck as my daily driver! One thing I really do appreciate though is how quiet it is. It is actually more quiet than my Passat was, by a LOT too. On the highway it's just dead silent. Looking forward to getting a trailer and being able to go to more track days, around the country.

[bompus]

One thing I really do appreciate though is how quiet it is. It is actually more quiet than my Passat was, by a LOT too.

I have a 2016 Jetta 1.4T and was very surprised at how loud it is at idle. Sounds like a diesel idling, but nope.. They must just not care. I'll have to check out the F150 2.7 now