Hindsight's build thread

[Aero STI]

The cable casing you got is very unique. That's the first I've seen that style.

[Hindsight]

Same here. I've seen the purple, and the black - both smooth, but never this. This is high-temp... not sure if that has something to do with it. I got them here: http://www.controlcables.com/

[Scargo]

That is a very nice installation! I am questioning the racing durability of the connections, front and back because they are not double-shear, in design. Your holes and connections look quite small on te shifter. Less than 1/4" or 6mm on the shifter? It's not just you... this is what I am typically seeing and Subaru has a quite stout arrangement for the transmission (a double-shear design) and I wonder if it doesn't all need to be that strong for long-term durability?
Edit: Yes, in many instances I am suggesting a "clevis rod-end" solution. Thanks

[Hindsight]

Thanks Glyn, I hear what you are saying. I'm using 1/4" hardware and the cable ends are 1/4" as well, same as from the factory. I didn't really feel I would need any more than what I have, in terms of durability, especially considering the moment-arm is so short (all the force is being applied right where the bolt comes out of the part as opposed to be spaces out). If I do end up with durability issues, clevis rod-ends would provide the double shear support but you have to be SO exact on the holes you drill for them or you end up with slop (i mean, if you drilled a plain 1/4" hole, I'm sure the pin would be slightly loose in it so you'd have to drill it a little smaller).

Speaking of double shear, am I the only person who cringes at some of the bump-steer setups where your tie-rod end is all hinging on a 3" long spacer up to the knuckle? That's a pretty critical component (steering!!!) and when going over FIA curbs at 100mph, it would terrify me.

[Scargo]

... am I the only person who cringes at some of the bump-steer setups where your tie-rod end is all hinging on a 3" long spacer up to the knuckle? That's a pretty critical component (steering!!!) and when going over FIA curbs at 100mph, it would terrify me.

Let me speak from experience that the steering and suspension components and their modification needs a very hard look and then constant inspection. I believe Whiteline discontinued their bump-steer product. I had one on my 2011 STi. It did not fail, per se, but the forces contributed to a failure which caused me to total my car. Others have had issues.
That step... that spacing down, needs to be done with the very best quality components and far beefier than stock. IMHO, it is an accident looking for a place to happen. Other designs could be better rather than that kind of spacer/bolt joint.

[RetroRacing]

IMG_0502.JPG

Normally, we would weld, but I want to test the handling first. Note the size of the base of the spacer and a grade 8 bolt makes the weak spot the actual arm. BTW, the spacer is for a pinto rack and you can buy them online.

[Scargo]

I purchased a highly modified Chevrolet from an Aerospace Engineer who started a racing machine shop with dyno. In the '70's he became the premier builder of Sprite racing engines in the US. When he did the disc brake conversion on the Chevy, he modified and TIG reinforced the Chevy spindle. He then had it heat treated, magnafluxed and then he shot-peened it. He left nothing to chance. He assumed nothing.
A lot of things like this from my past, including an engineering background, working with consulting, registered professional engineers on failures (including Corvair and Pinto issues) being on fire from an auto repair incident, losing a ball joint at Watkins Glen at over 100 and totalling several cars has given me a perspective of feeling like I need to be very careful, 'cause I can see what can happen and most of my nine lives are used up.

I am not interested in being Debbie Downer or hypercritical of others ideas and work. I just want everyone to be safe; as safe as you can be when driving a race car at high speeds. Not being a full-fledged engineer, I am sometimes reluctant to give advice. I might even give the wrong advice.
The leverage or torquing force on that joint and arm has been multiplied perhaps 6-10 times? Perhaps it is a common thing to do in racing but it bothers me and I would want the fewest pieces possible, tight tolerances on the bolts and holes, really high-grade nuts and bolts, safety wire, Loctite, extra castle nut and cotter pin. I hope I made somebody snicker or laugh, but you get my point.

[RetroRacing]

Agreed, that's why i'm worried about the arm twisting, leverage. THough, we have had this set up (welded and fluxed) on two GT3 cars with no issues, just not this long.

Stop scaring me or I won't drive it.....

[Hindsight]

Exhaust done. Tip is cut to be stealthy and I'll probably paint it flat black when I get around to it. Also need to do more than tack weld the tip but I'm going to keep it that way for now until after the body and splash guards are permanently in place in case I need to adjust it. The duct tape you see to the left of the tip is mocking up the diffuser that I will eventually add.

Just need to torque/check the suspension bolts and bolt the seat down and I'm ready to kart. Should be go-karting Saturday around lunch time.

[Frank818]

The diffuser doesn't cover that place for the exhaust tip, great idea. I didn't do it that way cuz I don't have the space and I didn't want the exhaust sound to rebound on the tarmac, it's gonna be loud enough without that. loll

[Tamra]

It's past lunch time... any updates on go-karting??? Good luck!

[RM1SepEx]

I like it but won't the rear get very dirty from the exhaust?

[Hindsight]

Go kart was successful! Had a real head scratcher moment when I went to start it and it wouldn't start. It hasn't run in 3 or so months, but I didn't do anything that would cause it to stop working.... or so I thought. I had unplugged the crankshaft position sensor while installing a new belt and an oil pressure sensor. Whoops! Once I figured that out, it fired right up and I pulled out of the garage and took off down the street. It was scary to drive due to the alignment.... was all over the place so I didn't get out of second.

SO satisfying after 1.5 years of work. Yet there is still so much ahead of me.

Dan, the exhaust angles downward so much of it should miss the bumper. Time will tell though!

Pics and vid shortly.

[Hindsight]

Here's the video.
https://youtu.be/HRh-ISTxlvg

[AZPete]

Okay, we see it starts and moves but we need more video! Considering that Tamra slapped you around for not posting soon after lunch, you'd better post a longer video before she sees this.

[metros]

Congrats! Enjoy this moment as a major milestone in your build.

[Hindsight]

Funny story about that... I took a longer one of me driving away down the street but as I walked from camera to car, my wife called, so the audio cut out and the screen shakes from vibration. A friend took another one though... will post it up soon.

[Mitch Wright]

Agree, the first drive is really satisfying, congratulations.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here's the video.
https://youtu.be/HRh-ISTxlvg

Great job Hindsight,
Bob

[JAubin]

Congrats! Must be awesome to take it out for a spin! I was close to doing that today, but w/ the snow we just got I decided to just do a first start and not try and kart the same day. Exhaust sounds great!

[Hindsight]

Okay, we see it starts and moves but we need more video! Considering that Tamra slapped you around for not posting soon after lunch, you'd better post a longer video before she sees this.

Ok here is the other one I have:

https://youtu.be/jk8c4G11uZw

Thanks for all the kind words everyone. Still have a lot of work ahead of me but yet another major milestone reached!

[Tamra]

Nice, congrats!!

[Pearldrummer7]

Awesome job, Jeff. That was the second most exciting milestone in the whole build so far. You must be ecstatic!

[STiPWRD]

Awesome! My toe angle was also messed up the first time I drove mine too and I had to fight the steering wheel to keep it straight. Nonetheless, it's an amazing moment.

[svanlare]

Congrats! Huge accomplishment and a major milestone. Time to find some local autocross sessions now.

[Frank818]

Wow awesome!! Fired up like if it was running few hours ago! Man that must be a nice feeling...

Huge hand shake, man, for the success.

[AZPete]

I LOVE go-kart vids! There is so much that has to go right from kit delivery to moving down the driveway. Congratulations!

[Frank818]

There is so much that has to go right from kit delivery to moving down the driveway. Congratulations!

Damn right!!!! Pete has said it again!

[FFRSpec72]

Where is the body ????

[Hindsight]

In the crawlspace

I have a number of things I need to do before putting the body on... e-brake, looming the wiring harness, running down some electrical issues (gauges are cutting out when cranking the starter and traction control system isn't picking up on any of the wheel speed sensors, among other things).

[Aero STI]

Did you use a laptop to check on the signals going in to the traction control? If that fails I would check things out with an o-scope. 3 of my sensors picked up consistently around 15 km/h. I wasn't getting consistent signal from all wheels until around 30 km/h.

[Hindsight]

Yeah I checked it with the laptop. I have an email out to RLTC so we will see if they have any ideas. I don't have a scope to check the sensors with - only a multimeter .

[Hindsight]

Ok, I know there are very few out there with the Race Logic Traction Control System but I figured I'd post this here in hopes that anyone searching to resolve an issue will find it.

For my 818, with the 2007 donor, the RLTCU system wouldn't pick up the ABS wheel speed sensor signals. I finally got it working to the point where I can see the speed sensor signals in the live chart plotter, but I have yet to get the car to a point where I can test it by performing the calibration and systems check. What I had to do was connect the race logic ABS signals wires to the BLACK wires coming from the wheel speed sensor. The ABS wheel speed sensors are all two wires, one black and one white. They terminate in a two-pin plug that connects to the main OEM wiring harness. The connector they plug in to has either a black+white or a green+blue twisted pair of wires. On my car, there didn't seem to be any matching pattern as to which color (white, black, green, or blue) connected to which color wire on the wheel speed sensors (black,white), so I just ensured the RLTCU wires were connected to whatever color wire ultimately let to the black wire on the ABS wheel speed sensor. The second thing I had to do was ground the shield wire on the RLTCU multi-conductor cable to the chassis. In other words, the RLTCU has four wires running inside a shielded cable from the RLTCU computer, and at the end of the cable there is a bit of bare wire sticking out which is the shield. At the computer end of that multi-conductor cable, the shield is grounded inside the computer. So it struck me as odd that both ends of the cable had to be grounded (normally for a shielded wire, only one end of he wire is shielded), but without grounding the other end of the shield wire, I received no ABS signal from the sensors at all in the RLTCU.

Long story short: Ensure the RLTCU signal wires ultimately connect to the black wire on the RLTCU, and ensure you ground the end of the shielded cable for the ABS signal wires that comes with the traction control system.

All that said, I think Andrew did it differently, and I think he used the white wire. But he isn't using the factory ABS computer like I am so his wheel speed sensors are only there for the traction control system. My understanding is that the ABS sensors generate a low AC voltage as their signal. So if that's true, I guess it doesn't matter which signal wire you use, but in my case, since I had the wheel speed sensors hooked up to the ABS computer, and the ABS computer is grounding one of the two speed sensor wires (I checked this with my multimeter). Since this is the case, whatever wire the ABS computer is grounding (white on my car) obviously can't be used to send back to the RLTCU computer so you have to use the other wire. The only part I'm still mystified by is why I also had to ground the end of the shield cable (because it wasn't like I was having an issue with noise - I was having an issue with no signal coming through at all), but whatever; as long as it works I'm reluctantly happy to let that mystery go.

[Aero STI]

I sent a PM, but I did some searching since I sent it to confirm my suspicion. There are posts on the racelogic forum suggesting that you can ground the shield wire to the chassis at the same point of the abs unit to clean up your signal.

[Hindsight]

Did a number of odds and ends over the last week or so.

I replaced the driveshaft seal that was leaking. I bought an aftermarket one and after buying an OEM one this time around, it's no wonder the old one leaked. It was definitely installed on the wrong side, but also it was missing the suction-cup type outer lip that helps seal it to the CV joint. I put the new one in using SgtGator's cool seal installer and seal protector, both of which worked very well. The installer is much nicer than a flat plastic universal seal driver because it's hollow on the inside at just the right diameter for the suction cup seal to fit inside so you aren't crushing it while you drive the seal in. The new seal isn't leaking so far but need to drive it to really confirm.

I also installed my Momo steering wheel and got the horn and turn signal cancellation working. To do that, I cut off the connectors on the clock-spring piece (the plastic module that goes between the steering wheel and the turn signal housing) all the way down to the pins, then soldered a wire onto the pin. Other than that, the clock spring stays in place and has the turn signal cancellation piece on it. Be careful not to cut off the two alignment pegs - these fit into the steering wheel hub and keep the clock spring turning with the steering wheel. I can hear the horn relay clicking when I hit the button so, so-far-so-good.

I installed my dash most of the way until the part where you drill the last holes in the bottom of it to secure it to the brackets. I realized I should have my windshield glass and doors in place before doing that because they could change the position the dash mounts to.

I bought a digital level gauge. It will help a lot with the alignment. Can use it for checking camber and caster and also for checking the rear parallel link adjustments (I put a small piece of angle iron across the two lateral links at the inward end, place the digital gauge on the angle iron, zero it out, then move the gauge and angle iron to the outer end of the lateral links. If the reading isn't zero, I adjust the upper trailing link until it is. Done. Took 2 minutes for both sides). I will post pictures and a write-up of it later.

Also pulled the trigger on some tires. Decided to go with Z2 Star Specs in 235/40/17 and 265/36/18 in the back to go on the RPF1 wheels I bought a month or so ago. Once the tires arrive and I get them mounted and installed, I do the alignment.

Familiarized myself with my AccessPort and AccessTuner Race. Got it talking with my Innovate wideband successfully, and loaded the stage 2 OTS map which should be a good base point for me to adjust as necessary (guessing I may need to scale the MAF and might need to make adjustments for the different exhaust).

And lastly, I started fabricating the AWIC front HE mount. Far from finished in this picture. I'll be getting the brackets powder coated black and will also be putting a light coat of Eastwood Radiator Black spray paint on the HE.

[Harley818]

I like your steering wheel. Care to share where you got it?.... and your digital level? I'm going to have to get to that soon.
Looks like same gauges? Just not as many as I have.
Good call on the black HE. I'll have to make a note to do that too.
I downloaded Stage two on the Accessport and it makes alot of difference to the idle and smooth ramp up.
Ultimately, I'll get it tuned, but till then it sounds good.
Started it with my new exhaust today.....after all this time... it sounds good.

[Hindsight]

Hi Harley, both the steering wheel and the angle gauge were purchased from Amazon.

The angle gauge is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JR8XBG

Here is a great video that shows you how to use it, or a plumb-bob to check your caster. Checking camber is obviously as easy as putting it up against a straight-edge that is sitting vertically against the face of your wheel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oco27WtOip8

Here is the steering wheel:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0065BK3WS

And the hub for it:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KECTTG

The gauges I have are oil temp, oil pressure, manifold pressure, water temp, wideband, and pre-/post IC intake air temp. They are all from pro-sport except for the wideband which is an Innovate MTX-L. I plan on putting most or all of the gauges in holes I will drill in the dash, and possibly a couple of them in the console. The water temp gauge will serve double purpose to check both the engine coolant temperature as well as the AWIC water temperature. I have two sending units (one in the AWIC radiator and another in the coolant manifold) connected to a dual pole switch that allows me to toggle between them. Also have some toggle switches you can't see in those pics: One to disable ABS, one to disable the AWIC water pump (in case I need to leave the key on and don't want the pump running), and one to kick both radiator fans on high speed. These will live in the console.

[Hindsight]

Here is a picture showing how to use the digital angle gauge to check and set the upper trailing arm link as described in my previous post.

Set across parallel links on the inside and zero out the gauge:


Then set them on the outer side and check the reading. If it's not zero, simply adjust the upper trailing link until it is. Done.

[Tamra]

Very nice! On the tune, are you going to try to do it yourself, or bring it somewhere?

[Hindsight]

Thanks Tamra. I was always going to take it in somewhere, but the more I have been reading about tuning on the RomRaider site, and also reading through the Cobb tuning guides, I'm very comfortable with doing it myself. Especially on the stock turbo. I know that a dyno can help you fine-tune the timing and the fuel ratio in order to produce the most amount of power with the safest levels of timing and fuel, but I think I can get close enough on my own without it.