My 818R Project has arrived

[Mitch Wright]

Was able to sneak away from work early and get in some shop time focusing on a bunch of little jobs that needed to be finished. Rivet the hood pin plates rear deck install 1.JPGRear deck rear.JPG
Install the mirrors mirrors Install.JPG
Finish Cobb install Cobb 2.JPGCobb install.JPG
Fit front splitter Front splitter.JPG

[Hindsight]

Looks good! I think a few of us are running the same mirrors. I really like them though they aren't adjustable (up/down) once in place.

[Mitch Wright]

Took the day off yesterday and finally stopped procrastanating and tackled ducting for the TMIC one of the last big 10 minute jobs and the front splitter struts. The punch list is getting shorter.
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[Scargo]

I like it.

[Mitch Wright]

Me too looking forward to seeing if it works. Next step is to add insulation.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looks good Mitch.
FFR did similar ducting on the first blue & white car.

What to you think of using little cables to hold the splitter instead of rods?
Bob

[C.Plavan]

Looks good Mitch.
FFR did similar ducting on the first blue & white car.

What to you think of using little cables to hold the splitter instead of rods?
Bob

Struts are preferable since you can extend them to "push" the splitter down. It angles up without mods.

[Mitch Wright]

Thanks Bob, I have been in contact with Jim at FFR the TMIC has been one of the many discussions. He has said they have done something similar on the Blue car with good results. He has also mentioned a few other areas that could possibly improve TMIC flow. Before I go exploring I want to finish off the 10 minute jobs (3-6 hours each) punch list and get the car to the track and put on some miles.
Chad is correct Struts are preferable, I have my splitter extended out to 4" from std 2" I think it need some help to stiffen it up. I also have splitter mounted to my radiator ducting.
I made my struts and mounts but you can buy them from APR.

[FFRSpec72]

Took the day off yesterday and finally stopped procrastanating and tackled ducting for the TMIC one of the last big 10 minute jobs and the front splitter struts. The punch list is getting shorter.

Heading in a similar direction but using the side sail vents with internal scoops to capture air and run it through brake duct tubing to the TMIC, I still believe that TMIC will work and save weight.

[Mitch Wright]

On the same page Tony. You have to be really close to your shakedown.

[Mitch Wright]

Punch list is down to 8 items and seeing a bright light at the end of the tunnel. Finished up the radiator ducting, replaced my leaking axle seal, final install of my radiator fan. Waiting on new injectors and it is kind of nice to have a deadline now due Dyno/tune time that I have scheduled in a few weeks.Rad inlet duct.JPGRadiator exhaust duct.JPGhood duct.JPG

Spent some time in the seat at the end of the day. It will be interesting to get back on track because with the current seat location I not sure I can see over the dash LOL.

[flynntuna]

Looks great, that's exactly what I had in mind doing. I just hope I can execute it as well as you!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Mitch,
I like the splitter braces and the after radiator plenum. Are you going to do anything with the hood vents?

If all goes well with our engine swap. We will see you Saturday.
The heat is very much limiting our garage time. Right now its 94 and the humidity makes it feel like 104F.
Bob

[Mitch Wright]

Thanks Tuna

Hi Bob, No vents in the hood just the openings.
I am with you on the heat I was at the shop Friday night and Saturday, I am lucky that I have AC but the poor unit struggling. Hope to see you Saturday.

[Mitch Wright]

Tuna, I kept over thinking it and there for procrastinating. I finally took the simple is better approach and was able bang it out in about 4 hours.

[Hindsight]

Spent some time in the seat at the end of the day. It will be interesting to get back on track because with the current seat location I not sure I can see over the dash LOL.

The roll-bar in these is so low, if you can see over the dash your head is probably too high.

I like the radiator ducting. I need to do something like that too one day. So many things on the punch list though.

[Mitch Wright]

I will have to see when I get it back on track with the dash and body on it. When I go karted my sight line was just at or a little above the front roll hoop. With the body and dash installed it has changed the view. Not worried thats what testing is for and with the broom stick test I have at least 3" if not more so I have room to raise the seat if needed.

[Hindsight]

You are lucky. I did the broomstick test yesterday in prep for my upcoming track day and with a helmet on, I have to deliberately slump to pass the broomstick test, and when I do, I only clear it by half an inch or so at most. I may have to do what Bob did and hack the S rollbar out, then fabricate something taller that looks more like the R version.

Do you have a track day planned yet?

[FFRSpec72]

I will have to see when I get it back on track with the dash and body on it. When I go karted my sight line was just at or a little above the front roll hoop. With the body and dash installed it has changed the view. Not worried thats what testing is for and with the broom stick test I have at least 3" if not more so I have room to raise the seat if needed.

Same here, the cage dimensions are very very close to the challenge car dimensions and I have no issues there. I doo feel like I'm lower in the 818 then the challenge car, not sure why though

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Do you have a track day planned yet?

I have to laugh at that question. He has a 3.2 mile, state of the art, road coarse in his back yard.

My new roll bar is 5" higher than 818S bar.

[Mitch Wright]

Hindsight, as Bob mentioned I am lucky enough to have a NCM Motorsports Park right outside my office door.
I am 5.8 and the extra height of the R front and rear hoops is big difference between the R & S

[Hindsight]

Wow, lucky you! Road Atlanta is only 45 mins from me but not quite the same!

The R has front hoops?

[Mitch Wright]

Yes it does have a front roll hoop which is required per NASA and SCCA rules.Brake lines.JPG Not a good picture but you can see the front hoop and one of the forward supports.

[Mitch Wright]

Here are a few more shot of the front roll hoop and supports.
818 dash.JPGChassis front.JPG

[Hindsight]

Thx for the pic. Had not seen that before.

[bbjones121]

Took the day off yesterday and finally stopped procrastanating and tackled ducting for the TMIC one of the last big 10 minute jobs and the front splitter struts. The punch list is getting shorter.
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This is exactly what I am hoping to do. I am going to make something similar for my hardtop. Great job!

[Mitch Wright]

5 things left on the punch list, took the afternoon off yesterday, installed my new injectors, installed the oil temp sender and tidied up wiring loom tie down.
Plan to finish this weekend: final alignment/Scale, install tune that will allow me to shake the car down before dyno session.
Dyno session Date TBD
Final Install front splitter, diffuser, under engine belly pan after dyno session.
The Project will be 2 years on August 14th, I didn't really get starting on the build until November 2014 but I am really happy with the end result.

[RetroRacing]

Love that. Maybe an open airbox with a panel filter for air intake mounted to the bottom? Yes, it would steal some air from the intercooler, but boy would the intake charge be cold!

[Mitch Wright]

I am pulling cold air for the intake from the RH side duct. [/ATTACH]Air box Back.JPGAir Box inlet.JPGAir Box top.JPG

[Mitch Wright]

I am pulling cold air for the intake from the RH side duct. Air box back 2.JPGAir box Back.JPGAir Box inlet.JPGAir Box top.JPG

[FFRSpec72]

I'm pulling air in from both side vents to the IC so we will see how that goes as far as not getting too heat soaked

[Mitch Wright]

Finally set the car on the scales, got the alignment done still a little work to do with me in the car but not in bad shape. Was really shooting for sub 1800lb. Got close but not quite, winter project. Wet with 5 gallons of fuel, I am pleased. 1816lb, 2005lb with me sitting in the car with gear.
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Tony I have some work to do to find that 25lb you have me beat by!!!!

[Mitch Wright]

Cars on the ground waiting on base tune. Shakedown laps planned for next week and dyno session scheduled for Friday, woowhoooo.

[Hindsight]

Nice, congrats! That makes at least three or four freshly "finished" 818 heading for the track this month.

[Wayne Presley]

Where are you going to dyno it?

[Mitch Wright]

Corbin Johnson up in Indy, easy haul from here.

[Mitch Wright]

Had a bit of an issue marrying the Access port to the ECU, it took a few days to figure out with the help of John and Corbin at Fathouse Fabrication, the guys at Cobb Tuning and Brian at I wire. The culprit was my AIM Dash, good news is guys much sharper than I figured it out and found a simple work around, and happy to report everything works and got the car tuned. I am really please with how my stocker EJ205 (with a JDM Header and VF37 Turbo) runs.
I asked Corbin for 2 maps one for NASA and one to play with just because. The low boost map is 14lb 257.71hp, 227.80 torque, the high boost is 17lb 283.77 hp, 257.57 torque.
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It was a productive day, now unfortunately I am tied up at work the next few weeks then taking my wife on vacation on the 12th so track time will be really limited.

[Wayne Presley]

Looks nice Mitch!

[Sgt.Gator]

Can you expand on the AIM dash - ECU- AP problem? Thanks.

[JeromeS13]

Can you expand on the AIM dash - ECU- AP problem? Thanks.

If it's the same issue that I had, you cannot have the AIM OBDII adapter and the Cobb AP connected to the ECU at the same time. They will intermittently connect to both. On mine, added a simple toggle switch to the wire going to the ECU. Normal mode was connected to the AIM dash. When I needed to flash or do anything with the AP, just flip the toggle.