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Thread: Wilwood Pedal Box Changes

  1. #1
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    Wilwood Pedal Box Changes

    I got my complete kit 5 weeks ago and Im working on the pedal box. There seem to be a bunch of small but annoying differences between the manual and the latest Wilwood kit. For example, some of the hardware (which is correct according to the pack list) doesn't quite fit. Bolts are too short...or missing (and not on the parts list). Someone at FFR mentioned there have been some design changes on the pedal box. Is there an updated set of instructions and hardware?

  2. #2
    Senior Member DaleG's Avatar
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    Here's Rev. D, 7/2013 from the FFR site. Is yours the same?

    https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...OX-WILWOOD.pdf
    SOLD 03/2013: MK II #5004: 5.0 EFI: 8.8, 3.55, E303, TW heads, GT40 intake, 24#, 70mm MAF

    Ordered MK IV Coyote Complete Kit.

  3. #3
    2bking's Avatar
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    Jul 2013
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    If your studs aren't long enough to extend through the locking nuts with nylon inserts, most everyone has that problem. Some back the studs out trying to fix that problem. Others purchase longer studs. I used Loctite and didn't worry about it. The nuts had the same engagement as a non locking nut.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  4. #4
    Junior Member
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    Let me clear up the confusion since I just spent a lot of time going though packing lists, watching the online video, referring to the printed build manual, and last of all looking at the PDF version I purchased before buying the kit.

    "Pedals to mounting bracket"

    1) The video is old, the clutch quadrant is no longer an offset aluminum piece. The button head screws and stud is no longer used.
    2) My printed build manual incorrectly says to use four button head screws on page 104 and doesn't mention the too much about a stud used in the video, but does show one button head missing.
    3) the PDF version is correct on what is labeled as page 104. Four hex bolts are used. My guess is this is something that was not allowed with the offset aluminum quadrant.

    Unfortunately, it took me a long time quadruple checking packing lists for button head screws and stud. Lesson learned, read the pdf first, and then use the printed manual where appropriate. Or, move a computer to the garage.

    Hope this saves someone else from spinning your wheels for 90 minutes or more.

  5. #5
    Ol Skool
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    Be careful here. There seems to be different versions of both hard parts and manuals. Mine had 4 button head 5/16" screws of insufficient length to engage the Nyloc nuts. However, on the passenger side be careful with hex head bolts. The adjusting bolt for front/rear bias barely clears a fat hex head on my set up so I am getting a couple different fasteners.

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