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Thread: Mrprgrmr's 818S Chassis #157 Build Thread

  1. #1
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    Smile Mrprgrmr's 818S Chassis #157 Build Thread

    OK, I'm not too far into the build, despite that I picked up the kit in March. I keep wanting to document the build but it often comes down to spending a few more minutes working on the car or a few minutes posting. I'm really happy to be working on the project I have long dreamed of. It's nice of FFR to come up with a more affordable kit, too! The plan is to keep the budget as reasonable as I can stand and build it as stock as possible (to simplify MA registration). Plans can change, of course.

    • 818S Chassis #157
    • 2002 WRX Wagon Donor
    • Stock motor
    • Stock brakes
    • Stock computer/ECU
    • Stock wiring, dieted
    • Stock seats, recovered
    • Catalytic converters=Yes
    • ABS=no
    • A/C=no
    • Heat/defrost=Yes
    • Wipers=Yes
    • Radio=Probably


    I'm debating CAT delete on the up-pipe. I bought a real nice new up-pipe without it, but I'm uncertain if this will give me a headache during registration.

    Mostly, I've spent the past 6 months working on the donor and cleaning up parts. I got a running salvage donor, which seemed like a good way to reduce the troubleshooting. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and front seals before tearing it apart. This is what it looked like before it's final trip up and down the street as a WRX.
    IMG-20140315-00034 sm.jpg

    I picked up the kit on a beautiful March day. Using a come-along, I was able to single handedly unload the U-Haul. This was a bit risky. I can't recommend this technique!
    IMG-20140322-00042 web.jpg

    Despite stashing the entire body in the basement crawl space, I'm a short on space. I decided to use the partially stripped WRX shell for storage until I get further along in using and selling. I cut off the entire front of the car after removing the engine to make a little space. There is currently stuff under, on top of, and inside the body. It works, but just barely.
    IMG-20140622-00121.jpg

    So far, I have installed the front firewall aluminum and one lower control arm. I had to grind down some of the weld filler and file some of the aluminum to get the front firewall installed. I had to expand the holes for the front lca bearing bolt a bit in order to get it to fit, grind the end of the rear LCA bolt, and finally cut a whole in the firewall so I can torque the rear bushing. I am quickly learning that building a kit car is no simple bolt-together affair. Most parts need to be modified, some significantly. I'm not really complaining... just observing. I can imagine it was much worse before the laser cut aluminum, custom frame jigs, etc.

    Last night, I finished installing the ball joints in the upper control arms. The first one was easy with the freezer + heat gun. The second one required me to disassemble the control arm and slide a 4' pipe over the threaded arm of the ball joint adapter. After I installed it the wrong way, I took it apart and flipped it over and reinstalled it. I verified that there was no cross-threading when I took it apart, so I think some of these are tighter than others. I was relieved that nothing broke when I used the cheater but also a little miffed to chew up the top of the ball joint in the vice. I may clean it up slightly with a file or grinder and repaint it.
    IMG-20140912-00148.jpg

  2. #2
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    Looks like a great start. Keep up the good work!

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    Senior Member JAubin's Avatar
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    Welcome to the fun! I'm at a similar stage and can relate to the head-scratching when things aren't fitting to double, triple check that you need to tweak things a bit. I managed to get all the firewall aluminum in without any grinding, but I did "persuade" things a bit to get a good fit relative to the pedal box, etc.

    I would go ahead and delete the up-pipe Cat. It's way easier when the motor is out, and it's only used for cold-start emissions. You'll need to install a resistor in the connector to prevent a check engine light (or tune it out) but it's a pretty simple, easy mod. Either way, as long as the check engine light is taken care of, it shouldn't affect your inspection as they'll use the OBD-II port anyway.

    Where are you located in MA? I'm in Southern NH, there are quite a few builds in New England right now.

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    Good to know about the up-pipe. I was more concerned about the visual inspection with the state, but maybe they don't know/care about it. My usual safety/emissions inspection shop is usually pretty easy on me as long as the ODBII doesn't trip it and there are no glaring violations (like a dead headlight!). I actually have a GrimmSpeed up-pipe I bought with the intention of using in the 818 - I've just been hesitant to create registration issues for myself.

    I'm in Sharon (South of Boston). It'll be handy for trips to FFR and the Bass Pro cruise nights (if I ever find myself with not enough to do!)

  5. #5
    fasterer and furiouser longislandwrx's Avatar
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    A stage 1 tune will delete the egt cel. If you are looking to sneak by emissions, get yourself a jdm or factory catless uppipe, looks like factory and no cats.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-07-Subaru...5c6037&vxp=mtr

    no one will even notice it.
    Last edited by longislandwrx; 09-12-2014 at 01:06 PM.
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

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    a jdm or factory catless uppipe, looks like factory and no cats.
    That seems like a good way to go. Anybody in the market for a new GrimmSpeed uppipe?

    Only had a few hours to dedicate to the car over the weekend. This was spent re-plating nuts and bolts, and working on the front suspension. That's going pretty well, except for one bone-headed move during which I tore an upper ball-joint boot - same one that gave me all the trouble during installation. I already ordered a replacement ball-joint, just for the boot. Apparently, the 818 uses the same part as a 70's Dodge Swinger.

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    Time for an update. I did go ahead and get a very slightly used factory catless uppipe. Thanks for the recommendation.

    I finished the initial installation of the front suspension and I'm moving to the back suspension. I enjoy tearing down the donor parts and renewing them but there is definitely a greater feeling of progress as I put parts on the car.
    IMG-20141111-00182.jpg

    I recently saw a post that suggested installing the inner splash guards in the front should be one of the first steps, so I did that too. I would give proper credit, but I can't seem to find the initial post. Were these pieces a late addition? I couldn't find any references to them in the manual, except in the last diagram that labels all of the sheet metal. These pieces took a bit of trimming as the angle of the sheet metal did not match my frame and they hung over about 3/8 or 1/4" at the top. I'm being picky about this because I don't want to get a scrape every time I go to work on the car. I debated drilling the holes but not riveting these; ultimately, decided to just finish these. I'll post an update if that turns out to have been a mistake.
    IMG-20141111-00181.jpg

    Right now, I'm tearing apart the rear suspension. The only thing giving me trouble is the big bolts that attach the control arms... those are soaking in penetrating oil for a few days. I thought the rear control arms had escaped collision damage and the Copart forklift since they initially looked straight. Maybe not. Now that they are off the car I think the rear most control arms have a very slight bend and it's not identical on both sides. It is probably small enough a bend that an alignment would compensate, but it seems like a bad idea to put known bad parts into the car. I think I'll research replacements.

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    Well crap.. I didn't see in the manual about installing the inner splash guards either and I'm farther in than you. Hope I can still do it without having to cut them too much.

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    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Oh crap here too, I better get moving and install these panels as well, otherwise I'm sure I'll end up routing something through the triangles and I'll swear like an A-H when I come to fit the panels.
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    I recently saw a post that suggested installing the inner splash guards in the front should be one of the first steps, so I did that too. I would give proper credit, but I can't seem to find the initial post. Were these pieces a late addition? I couldn't find any references to them in the manual, except in the last diagram that labels all of the sheet metal. These pieces took a bit of trimming as the angle of the sheet metal did not match my frame and they hung over about 3/8 or 1/4" at the top. I'm being picky about this because I don't want to get a scrape every time I go to work on the car. I debated drilling the holes but not riveting these; ultimately, decided to just finish these. I'll post an update if that turns out to have been a mistake.
    IMG-20141111-00181.jpg

    That was me, I suggested it be step 2.

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    Thanks for the recommendation Quiny. It certainly did seem like good advice to install them before anything else got in the way.

    One other thing I didn't mention on the suspension. In addition to my mishap with the ball joint, I ruined the steering rack and had to buy a rebuilt one. Since I'm trying to repaint everything, I 3D printed some plugs for the holes in the steering rack and sand blasted it. The only problem was that one of the plugs fell out and I got sand in the bearings. I can't even blame that on being a beginner... it was really just a case of impatience and not wanting to get/make proper fitting plugs.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Don't worry, I have had my share of these crappy situations that make you feel like an idiot and guess what, I will have more before the end of the build!
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

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    progress has been made (finally)

    After getting very little car building done over the winter, I am back at it. In addition to competing projects, fighting snow dams and a leaky garage, I have been busy at work with a fair amount of travel.

    During the winter, I did upgrade my 3D printer to print ABS plastic. The first project was a set of plugs to fill in the holes left when I removed the ABS sensors. If anyone wants the design files, send me your email address and I will send them to you. My next printed piece may be plugs for the holes I cut in the front firewall. The ones I ordered don't fit.
    IMG-20150321-00250.jpg
    IMG-20150321-00254.jpg
    IMG-20150320-00246.jpg

    I spent some time doing basic engine maintenance, including the Killer Bee oil pickup, new turbo inlet, clutch, flywheel, and various seals. I was initially planning to re-zinc every bolt and fully sand blast and paint everything. After the winter I feel the need to make faster progress, so I ditched that plan and installed the engine yesterday. It ain't the prettiest engine but it's in. IMG-20150422-00271.jpg
    IMG-20150423-00277.jpg

    After that, the rest of the rear suspension went in pretty smoothly.
    IMG-20150423-00278 (768x1024).jpg

    I'm working on the alternator bracket next. Then, either reattach the exhaust headers or install the cockpit aluminum.

  14. #14
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    I recently saw a post that suggested installing the inner splash guards in the front should be one of the first steps, so I did that too. I would give proper credit, but I can't seem to find the initial post. Were these pieces a late addition? I couldn't find any references to them in the manual, except in the last diagram that labels all of the sheet metal. These pieces took a bit of trimming as the angle of the sheet metal did not match my frame and they hung over about 3/8 or 1/4" at the top. I'm being picky about this because I don't want to get a scrape every time I go to work on the car. I debated drilling the holes but not riveting these; ultimately, decided to just finish these. I'll post an update if that turns out to have been a mistake.
    IMG-20141111-00181.jpg

    That was me, I suggested it be step 2.
    I just read you post and now realize why I never had a problem... I didn't get those panels, they are not on my BOM but are listed on that aluminum panel blowout diagram on page 457 of my rev. 1C assembly manual. UGH
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  15. #15
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I remember reading that somewhere too but couldn't figure out the original poster to give credit to. Ours were installed at the beginning too, thanks to the mysterious smart person!

    Congrats on installing the engine! Not long and we will be seeing a first start video!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  16. #16
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Found mine, blowout uses one part number, the BOM uses two different ones... Now I have to take apart my brake lines to install these panels... You don't want to know how long ago my brake lines were done, it was before FFR even figured out what to include in the kit!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  17. #17
    Harley818's Avatar
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    I got the panels with my kit but no instruction when to install them..... now I have the same problem RM......Quiny where were you when we needed you?
    Harley
    Bought 2002 Donor Jan 2014
    First Start Jan 18, 2015
    First Drive Feb 14, 2015

  18. #18
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  19. #19
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    I'm chassis 15 and got those. I installed them after doing brake lines.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
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  20. #20
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Craig, did you dis-assemble the lines, drill a hole for pass through r did you slot the panels?
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrprgrmr View Post

    During the winter, I did upgrade my 3D printer to print ABS plastic. The first project was a set of plugs to fill in the holes left when I removed the ABS sensors. If anyone wants the design files, send me your email address and I will send them to you. My next printed piece may be plugs for the holes I cut in the front firewall. The ones I ordered don't fit.
    IMG-20150321-00250.jpg
    IMG-20150321-00254.jpg
    IMG-20150320-00246.jpg
    I can host the file for you if you'd like.

  22. #22

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    I am right around the corner from you in Norton if you ever want to take a look at a finished one. Might help to get a different perspective also.
    Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Craig, did you dis-assemble the lines, drill a hole for pass through r did you slot the panels?
    U shaped slot.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
    Check out my new website!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
    U shaped slot.
    I was thinking that it's I'll either need to make a hole for the brake lines if I install them now or a slot later. Not a whole lot of difference. The main thing is getting them done before the steering column and other items are in the way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    I can host the file for you if you'd like.
    I didn't even think of that option. Either that would work, or I can put it up on Google Drive and post the link here (is that within the rules of engagement for the forum?)

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    I am right around the corner from you in Norton if you ever want to take a look at a finished one. Might help to get a different perspective also.
    Mike
    I'll contact you pretty soon. I was thinking one of your master cylinder relocators may be desirable as I am getting close to that point. I'd love to see what else you've done too.

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    Radiator brackets part 1

    I haven't been posting much, but really happy with how my radiator brackets came out. It looked like I would have the same issue as others with the bottom radiator tube hitting the steering rack bellows, so I had to create some spacers to lift it up a bit. For the bottom, I kept it as simple as I could think, with a piece of rectangular cross section aluminum with a couple holes for to mount it and locate the radiator bushing. A few 1-1/4" diameter washers keep it centered in the FFR mount and a slightly larger washer covers the hole in the FFR mount, allowing it to be bolted on.

    IMG_0261.JPGIMG_0277.JPG

    I also had to trim off a plastic tab on the bottom of the radiator to prevent interference.
    IMG_0279.JPGIMG_0280.JPG

    Overall, I am satisfied with the solution. I raised the radiator by 1-1/4" though 1" might have been adequate.

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    Radiator brackets part II

    Once I had the bottom radiator brackets sorted out, I had to work on the top brackets. First, I was thinking to just add a piece of tube and longer bolts to the cut off Subie brackets as recommended in the manual, but this seemed a bit flimsy... so I spent a couple days cutting, welding, and grinding some plain steel. I'm a beginner with a stick welder, so the welds are inconsistent resulting in quite a bit of rework. Someone with more experience could probably move a lot quicker.

    I had several rejects
    IMG_0294.JPG

    Test fit... we have a winner!
    IMG_0292.JPG

    This is the final product
    IMG_0297.JPG

    Installed, you can see that the brackets hold the radiator slightly away from the frame, which seemed like the safest way to avoid rattles. Hopefully, none of this causes issues when I go to install the body.
    IMG_0298.JPG

  29. #29
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    Shouldn't cause an issue with the radiator you have in there. Later 06-07 rads had a taller fill neck.

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    Thanks. Good to know I probably won't have to redo all that work!

  31. #31
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Nice work. Your post will help others.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  32. #32
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    Question Ground strap goes where??

    I made a couple little brackets for my horns last week. I tend to think small cars should have loud horns. I used the factory relay and fuse (15 amp IIRC) but put in some heavier wire to these horns. Specs suggest they should pull about 7 amps.

    IMG_0305.JPGIMG_0306.JPG

    Now I'm setting up the ground wire "network". There are three ground straps in the kit (2 large and one small). The instructions only mention one to the engine, which I installed. I found somewhere in these forums that the small one goes to the gas filler. That leaves me with one more ground strap. Where does it go!?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mrprgrmr View Post
    Once I had the bottom radiator brackets sorted out, I had to work on the top brackets. First, I was thinking to just add a piece of tube and longer bolts to the cut off Subie brackets as recommended in the manual, but this seemed a bit flimsy... so I spent a couple days cutting, welding, and grinding some plain steel. I'm a beginner with a stick welder, so the welds are inconsistent resulting in quite a bit of rework. Someone with more experience could probably move a lot quicker.

    I had several rejects
    IMG_0294.JPG

    Test fit... we have a winner!
    IMG_0292.JPG

    This is the final product
    IMG_0297.JPG

    Installed, you can see that the brackets hold the radiator slightly away from the frame, which seemed like the safest way to avoid rattles. Hopefully, none of this causes issues when I go to install the body.
    IMG_0298.JPG
    . Nice work

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    Quote Originally Posted by turbomacncheese View Post
    That should just about do it!

  36. #36
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    Heater core mounted

    The heat system is about half figured out. I found a heater that seemed the right dimension to tuck under the dash in front of the passenger seat (Southern Air). I haven't seen anyone using this one yet, but I liked the dimensions. I made some brackets and installed it over the past week.

    I also got an electric bypass valve (Old Air products). Vents and tubing seem readily available. What has me stumped is where to get some electric doors for the tubing so I can send the heat where I want it. I imagine I could build something with servo/stepper motors, some 3-d printed parts, and some electronics; however, that would probably take a couple months of free time.

    IMG_0356.JPGIMG_0359.JPGIMG_0360.JPG

  37. #37
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    First start!

    I'm so happy! After a failed attempt on Sunday, I found a wiring fault (as in "my fault") yesterday, fixed today and made another attempt - this time with success. I posted a video on Facebook. It's not much to look at but sounds great.

    https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...00000017525885

    Just a note if you are rewiring the entire harness, as I did: There are two circuits with black wires and red strips. One of them connects almost directly to the battery via main fuse #5. The other connects directly to ground via the engine ground connectors. These circuits go through the entire car with connections in multiple places. NONE of these wires are interchangeable

    Now I just have to take care of about 10 or 12 more things to install/fix and I should be in "go-kart" mode. This should motivate me.

  38. #38
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    Epilogue?

    Eight and a half years after getting the kit, five years after my first start, the 818 is on the road. When I started, the 818 was the hottest new thing; now, it seems to be history. Yeah, I'm a slow builder. Honestly, I'm not a very fast driver either.

    Why did I disappear?
    I've seen discussions asking why people start out documenting their build and disappear. For me, too much time on social media, which this is, tends to leave me foggy, disoriented, and envious of what other people are doing; whereas, time spent in the garage building stuff has the opposite affect.

    Lessons learned
    • My home paint job is "meh". Lack of experience and I didn't feel justified spending the money on an expensive paint job. I might still be able to polish out some of the scratches. I could do better if I did it again, but I don't hate it enough to take it apart and start over.
    • It's topless. I cancelled an order for a soft-top from FFR. I really like the look of the factory soft top; but with over six months of delays, excessive cost ($3000 with windows?), and poor communications, it just wasn't worth it.
    • Body work. We had no way of knowing but a kit car with "modular" body panels was not a great idea. Life would have been easier with a body molded as a single unit (plus doors). I would not build another kit car unless it was built as such.
    • The manual. The official manual was pretty good in places, pretty bad in other places, and non-existent in some places (lower seat belt mounting anyone???). I would highly recommend that FFR have open-source manuals; they could write the bulk of the manual and maintain some control over changes and quality but harness the power of the community for better instructions. There are a lot of small edits I might have made that would have reduced frustration but not worth someone searching through forums for.
    • Communication and support. FFR could have done a better job of communicating as fixes were made to the kit. I don't object to having to pay for upgrades - I bought updated center console and transmission brackets from FFR - I just wish there was a way to know about them. Also, I won't blame them if FFR has decided to discontinue the 818, but for existing customers a notification would and a last chance to buy upgrades would be very nice. It appears upgrades are just slowly becoming unavailable and/or disappearing from the website.
    • Every part is a small project in itself. If something fits without drilling, filing, cutting, and other work that's a rare bonus. Computer laser cut sheet metal might make you think otherwise. Don't be fooled. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but I didn't realize the extent to which parts modification would be required.


    High Points
    • Building a car that was not a replica was good fit for me. I enjoyed make modifications as I wished, without worrying about whether someone else would thing I did it "correctly"
    • Rebuilding the wiring harness was fun. I know it's not for everyone, but I enjoyed it.
    • Designing/building parts, especially what I could 3D print
    • Driving a car that I built myself is fun (and a bit scary)


    What next?
    My friends are asking what I am going to do next now that my car is done... so, I guess that means it's "done". For now, I am still planning incremental improvements: sound insulation between the engine bay and the driver, hood props, etc. The car is driving well with just a string alignment; however, I might take it in for a "real" alignment. Oh yeah, someday I'm going to have figure out what that smell is... there's probably a slow leak somewhere.

    Will I sell it? Build another?
    Not yet, I'm still enjoying it. I expect if I sell it, I might get back less than 50% of the money I put into it. In my experience, that's typical for project cars. I'd love to do another car but it's hard to justify and I have other cheaper hobbies.

    The car itself
    818S Gen 1 built using 2002 WRX engine and parts, Eastwood Pin-up Red

    FFR Upgrades:
    • Windshield Wiper kit (original 2-wiper version)
    • Trunk
    • Factory five wheels (dark grey)


    Replicarparts (Mike Everson):
    • 3" stainless exhaust with Cat
    • Brake reservoir relocation kit
    • Engine cover hinges


    Other Upgrades:
    • Subaru SPT intake
    • Group N motor mounts
    • Killer B oil pickup
    • ACT StreetLite flywheel
    • Exedy OEM clutch
    • Koyo racing radiator (for clearance)
    • COBB AccessPort
    • braided stainless brake/clutch lines
    • Toyota Camry headlights, HID retrofitted
    • Hella Sharptone horns
    • Heater with defrost ducts
    • Windshield washer
    • 3rd brake light
    • Radio/CD player
    • Sound deadening


    Homemade:
    • Radiator standoffs and brackets
    • Battery tie down
    • Secondary "firewall" between fuel tank and engine
    • ABS block-off plates (3D printed)
    • 3rd Brake light roll bar brackets (3D printed)
    • Hand brake handle (3D printed)
    • Gear shift boot (hand-sewn pleather!)
    • Turbo heat shield
    • Door edging/trim
    • Various brackets

  39. Likes J R Jones, NISMO_RB25, Rob T liked this post
  40. #39
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Falmouth, MA
    Posts
    752
    Post Thanks / Like
    well, it's good to hear you "finished" the car. I am now "finishing an 818S that I purchased from another builder who lost interest. I notice your frustration with the body which I found rather easy to fit and finish. I have built many, many cars over the years including FFR cobras, Daytonas, GTM, 33 and several other kit cars. Of them all, only one other kit car had a better fit body than the 818. Compared to the extent it takes to finish the other FFR bodies, this was a piece of cake. Your build sheet looks great and my recommendation is to drive the ***** out of it until you get tired of it. I get my stress relief building cars as a hobby and have a tendency to sell them only after a short ownership to move on to the next project. At this point my garage has my 818, 33HR, 911 Porsche Carrera4 and a Jeep Rubicon, but I can't wait to take the 818 for a spin!

  41. #40
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    73
    Post Thanks / Like

    Door Handle Trim

    Oh yeah, the car if FUN to drive. I drove about 250 miles over the summer/fall and it always put a smile on my face.

    I was having issues with the Impreza door handle trim popping off when I opened the door. My solution was a 3D printed trim bezel to cover up the rough edges and the gap between the door and the door handle body. If anyone wants to print their own, search for "ffr 818 door handle trim" on Thingiverse.

    It took a few tries to get a satisfactory fit.
    IMG_3751.jpg

    I used some of the leftover screws to attach it.
    IMG_3749.jpg

    Function over form...
    IMG_3745.jpg

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