http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/alum...fter-assembly/
Can anyone give a review of this yet?
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http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/alum...fter-assembly/
Can anyone give a review of this yet?
There was some talk about it recently on the transmission forum. Looks like a variant of Wayne's KTuned kit that uses the FFR shifter cables.
Rich
818S in progress. 2007 WRX sedan donor.
Powered up: 7-8-14, First Start: 7-20-14, Go kart: 8-19-14
It may be a K-tuned part, but it's a different shifter mechanism than the 'no-cut' one in Wayne's kit. Nowhere near as pretty, IMHO. My shiffter will stay naked.
They're both nice, I give the edge to Wayne's. Maybe worth a poll
If the kit came with the billet shifter, I probably wouldn't have spent the money for Wayne's. But given the choice between having to pay more for either one, the shorter cables, and more elegant design of the VCP make it worth the extra, IMHO. Like a Pagani or Spyker, the exposed mechanism is a design statement and really seems to fit the 818.
P.S. George, how's going, getting ready to build an H6?
I am so ready, however my garage isn't. It's a little frustrating, she who must be obeyed, lol, insists on supervising what gets tossed, given away or kept. I even bribed her with a basement remodel. That sped things up a little and progress is being made, but at times I wonder.... 3-4 months from now I'll have a better feeling on when to order.
What makes me most frustrated is seeing possible donors on copart just slip buy. Two week ago a wrx that was stripped, no engine, Tranny or interior sold for $800 other wise the body was perfect. I would have made money on that one, enough to buy a 5sp anyway.
Definitely interested in an EZ 36, just a little over my head when it comes to the ECU choice.
Wayne has the ECU answer.
Wayne is the best!
What system are you using, and are you using a local shop to dyno-tune?
I'm using Wayne. He has been developing a Megasquirt system for me quietly for a few months. I don't have it in my hands yet but he is at 95%.
My wife's an anti-hoarder, so I have the opposite problem; if I'm not careful, she'll toss everything... I think our garage is the only one on our street that can actually fit 2 cars. If I bring anything in, I immediately get the questions... what's that? where' it going? how long will it be there? I sold off my donor's wheels Monday evening which made her happy to see gone; I think she would have rolled them to the curb had they stuck around any longer!
Just order the kit and force the issue
Just order the kit and force the issue [/QUOTE]
Trouble maker. Lol We don't use the "H" word here lol. To be honest 3/4 of the "stuff" in the garage is from my sister's and moms estate. Just procrastinating with dealing with it. It should go quickly once we get serious about it.
I just don't get why a newly design shifter would still have the cables going forward.... makes no sense to me....
Tony Nadalin
2018 SOVREN Big Bore Champion
2015 SCCA Oregon Region VP3 Champion
2012 ICSCC ITE Class Champion
FFR MkII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, SCCA, ICSCC and NASA Racing
818R Build in progress
I got an email about it just as my completion date was nearing and I was settling up with them, so I threw it in the order. Once mine is set up I'll be able to give it a review, but don't hold your breath...I anticipate a loooong build.
Best,
-j
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Mine is installed and adjusted, The new FFR billet shifter feels much better than the original plastic one. The cables have too much slop... I need to look at how it can be improved.
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
I wonder why FFR doesn't offer a reversed bellcrank mechanism at the tranny and stop routing long cables to the front and around?
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Dan, can you elaborate on what you mean by "the cables have too much slop" - are you saying the shift action is adversely impacted by "slop" inside the lines? Or are you saying that the cable lengths are just long and flop around the chassis somewhere?
"Slop" sounds like the shift action isn't crisp, but that sounds like a matter of excess play in either a connection point or something internal to the trans. Wondering what you're findings are here.
Best,
-j
And that's why my set up has cables that are half the length of the FFR supplied ones, much crisper shifting.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
With the FFR plastic assembly you could see and feel the flex in the assembly where the cables were clamped in the front, that is gone. When you slide the billet shifter the movement isn't translated directly to the transaxle arm. I think that some movement results in movement of the cable and sheaf in the "loops" as Wayne said, shorter cables = more direct shifting. I need to play with it, perhaps better control of the cables will help.
I've also noticed that later kits have multiple holes in the shifter arm allowing adjustment of the shifter throw and force req. arm
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
I used Wayne's shifter on my Orange 818S. I am using the plastic one on the K818S build. The plastic one is not very good IMO. Wayne's is worth every penny IMO.
Not just the length of the cables, but Wayne's has no 180deg bend in the cable routing(since they go straight back not through the firewall), which adds backlash to the shifter movement.
It isn't just the cables, The block that runs on bearings feels really smooth but it has too much tolerance in the assembly. Here are a couple photos, you can see how far it moves at the pivot. I'll be shimming theis out with some brass shim stock. I bet there is .030 here and it translates to much more due to the length from the pivot point to each end (the shift knob and the cable end)
P1120297.JPG P1120298.JPG P1120299.JPG
notice how far the gap appears at the front end when the shift knob is moved from front to back. the gap increases quite a bit
I'm also uploading a video, you can see what I mean
http://youtu.be/2X79by5lM-U
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
It was very easy to tighten up the shifter block, it took .025 of brass shim stock. I took off the end and made up small shims, a .400 hole was used to clearance the shim on the shaft. I'd like to put a simpler shim behind the bearing but I don't have a puller to remove the bearing
P1120306.JPG P1120307.JPG P1120308.JPG
I reassembled the shifter, no play now, noticeable reduction in free shifter movement. I think that further reduction can be made by constraining the cable loop movement.
It feels much crisper than the plastic unit, you can feel the transmission "slots" much better, it is a big improvement.
Has anyone tried to make a gated shift cover vs using a boot? I'm thinking a piece of clear lexan would allow viewing the nice billet mechanism...
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
Thanks Dan! That really helps. I'll definitely be looking to shim my shifter.
Best,
-j
Perhaps your machining tolerances are tighter and you won't need one...
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
I have shifted with both setups, the plastic one shifts good, and the metal shift pretty much the same except a shorter throw. I don't see a big difference in how they function. It looks nice and is a nice upgrade to have
818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207