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Thread: DavidW build in Maryland

  1. #1

    DavidW build in Maryland

    So I have been planning a build for a few years. I've had to get my garage ready. As you can see I had to make some storage for all the junk that gets put in there.
    001.JPG004.JPG010.JPG

    I painted the floor, got air, a supply of needed tools such as engine lift, jack, motor stand, sockets, torque wrench etc., and a retracting power supply.
    003.JPG004.JPGgarage 1.jpggarage 2.jpg

    So far I have a 351w based engine, MSD starter, MSD ignition, Russell complete carbureted fuel system kit . A TKO 600 transmission, QuickTime bellhousing, billet steel flywheel, Street Slayer clutch, hydraulic clutch release bearing and Wilwood clutch master cylinder, Wheels and tires. I also have the rear, a Ford 8.8 rear axle with 31 spline axles, tracloc 355 gears and a Ford Racing diff cover and Wilwood drilled and slotted rotors with 4 piston caliper with e-brake to be installed.
    001.JPG002.JPGwheels.jpg

    I have tried to think of the things I would need that aren't in the kit and get them.....yes I haven't ordered the kit yet, I know, I'm on the pay as you go type budget.

    I had planned on ordering the kit this month or next but do to a family medical emergency, "our dog" I will have to postpone the order for a little while.
    I will be picking her up from the vet hospital today 2pm after a gallbladder removal, and now pancreatitis. She has spent a total of 11 days at the vet and I hope she gets better soon.

    Let me know what other components I might want to get prior to ordering the complete MK4 kit, thanks. Until then I'll be sitting in my garage just looking at all the parts, and stalking you all on the forums.

  2. #2
    Hi David

    We are thinking alike.... I ordered a complete kit on August 22nd and have done just about everything you have here but get the tires and wheels on the shelf. My wheels are coming from FFR and the tires Goodyear Billboards from supplier in CA. They have been on B/O since June but should ship soon. a couple tools I have added to tool box are Cleco tool & fasteners, good drill bits, air rivet tool and a 1/4 in. air drill. Here is what I decided on. Get the pooch rehabbed so you can get the kit ordered. If you get the chance head down to Wareham for a tour. I made the trip last Friday and really enjoyed the visit. I flew from the west coast
    CP-CP7300QC-Rev-Air-Drill-Keyless-Chuck.jpg

    Pic of garage

    Snake Den.JPG



    Rearend done

    Rearend.JPGRearend2.JPG

    331 Stroker

    331 Stroker9.JPG
    Last edited by rmiller64; 10-14-2014 at 11:47 AM.

  3. #3
    That will be a nice home for a new build.
    Doug

  4. #4
    So, the dog is better than ever. I didn't get the air drill but I need to do better than the battery drills I'm using, I might just go electric due to my air tank isn't that big and noise can be an issue. I did get a pneumatic riveter but have had problems with it, I need to get that fixed because its so easy to use.

    I received the kit on 6-7-15. Inventory was a bear, had to almost guess on some of the parts description and with some research was able to confirm them. Looks like I'll have some fun keeping track of some backordered parts, upgraded parts and other parts too.
    MKIV delivery 6-7-15.jpg

    The front suspension and rear 3 link suspension are done but in the book directions says the rear axle Koni shock body attaches to the frame that's how I did it but on the YouTube video it shows the shock body attaches to the axle, does it matter??

    The next step is the pedal box and brakes. I just realized that I should probably upgrade the brake master cylinders because I upgraded to the 6 piston front and 4 piston rear calipers. The kit has .75 front and .625 rear master cylinder. I guess I can use the .75 master cylinder for the upgraded 4 piston rear caliper and only purchase a new 1.0 master cylinder for the front 6 piston caliper, does that sound correct?? What about the reservoir tank, should that be larger??

  5. #5
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I picked up a decent corded drill from Home Depot for around $50. The cord is a pain, but it is consistent and always ready to go. (cordless are great if they are charged and you're only drilling a few holes).
    Don't forget some black oxide bits too. I don't remember the size, it's not common (13/64"???), but pick up a couple spares. Not a matter of if you break, them, it's when.
    Enjoy the build, First Start and Go-Kart are a BLAST!
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  6. #6
    I talked to a tech and they said the master cylinders delivered with the kit will work good for the upgraded calipers and rotors.
    Last edited by DavidW; 08-27-2015 at 08:18 AM. Reason: more detail info

  7. #7
    My build is going pretty good so far. I'm following the FFR Assembly Manual and am up to the "Fuel System" about page #160. I thought I would be happy about the Edelbrock complete fuel system kit I purchased but looking at the options for mounting the pump I might reconsider at least the pump part.
    Fuel System Kit.jpg
    I have searched the internet for FFR Roadster fuel pump placement and have gotten good results but I just don't think those locations are for me. I might go with the in tank pump. I have to check compatibility and hopefully get some feed back from others who went through this dilemma. The end result is a pump that will be compatible with an EFI system in the future, not saying I will switch to EFI but you never know. I'm thinking about this pump. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-4258fi/overview/

    I will probably skip the fuel line and start on brake lines, again following the book as best I can.
    01827.jpg02827.jpg03827.jpg04827.jpg05827.jpg06827.jpg

  8. #8
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Looking nice! What did you paint the rear-end with? I bought some VRT paint as felt the POR-15 was a bit overboard considering my rear-end is not all rusty. It already has a primer on it from Mike Forte.

  9. #9
    I got my rear from Mike Forte also and came in primer but the pinion seal leaked after I filled it with fluid. I used the POR-15 two coats. I thinned it on the second coat. It turned out okay and I had a buddy say it looked like it was powder coated. The seal isn't leaking too bad so I'll wait to replace the $7.00 seal. I'll need to find out if when Mike did the rear he used a crush sleeve or solid with shims. Either way a leaky seal sucks on a newly rebuilt rear.

  10. #10
    Don't bother asking him to cover the cost of a new seal and the fluid you wasted. Ask me how I know….
    Mk 4 roadster #8495 delivered on 12-23-2014. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-Build-Thread Carbureted 4.6 SOHC, C-4 auto with manual valve body. Fox width rear with 2.73 gear. First start video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8ie...ature=youtu.be

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Ray W. View Post
    Don't bother asking him to cover the cost of a new seal and the fluid you wasted. Ask me how I know….
    Yeah I'm not worried about that. From what I see on the forum Mike is good people and has a lot of products that help people like me to achieve a goal even if there are a few bumps in the road, that's what its all about. Now I get to learn how to replace the flange seal, I'm sure its not the last thing I'll learn about during this build. Now I'm learning about fuel systems, haven't even attempted to install any part of it yet do the parts I have and fitment issues.

  12. #12
    Its been a slow process but very rewarding.

    I got a chance to stop by Whitby Motorcars in NC when I was down there for my Daughters graduation from High Point University and was met by a very knowledgeable crew, I was impressed. I'll be dropping it off there for paint hopefully soon.

    Here is my progress.

    I installed the motor and trans, installed the accelerator peddle wire and mount on the carb. Installed the brake and clutch reservoir on the frame. I hope the body doesn't make it hard to access them, if it does a simple fix could be some spacers on the mount....hopefully.carb linkage BCres.jpg

    I installed the motor and trans to find the bellhousing hits the frame on the passenger side, easy fix remove engine and cut off lip of bellhousing. It turned out nice and you cant even notice. Cutting it gives me about a half inch clearance on both sides, hard to see in the pic though. The trunk aluminum went in well except the small triangle piece #22 went in after the sides did and I couldn't rivet the bottom of the piece. I think it will be fine because its inside the trunk frame.bellhousing frame space.jpgstarter and frame space.jpg

    The radiator went in good but I decided to get the top and bottom ceramic hoses and the bottom radiator bracket from Breeze.radiator and hose install.jpg

    I mounted the fuel regulator on the front of the head, I hope it doesn't shake too much. I found a pre-bent hose that fit perfect between the water pump and the intake manifold.heater hose and fuel reg.jpg

    The E brake was the most pain in the but thing so far. I had to re-arrange the bolts a couple times to get it to clear the aluminum but finally got it. I decided not to run the cables under the frame so I modified the #7 handle to ratchet mount. I added about 3 inches extending it, changing the geometry so the cable could go over the frame. I also modified the cable frame bracket by welding half inch pipe on an angle, it worked well even moved the cable away from the drive shaft.Ebrake handle extension.jpgD shaft and Ebrake cable mount.jpgEbrake cable mount over frame.jpg

    I was going to replace the pinion seal because it leaked. I couldn't get the flange nut to budge. I figure I'll replace it later so I just decided to install the drive shaft.

    I installed the battery and now for the rest of the wiring.battery install.jpg

  13. #13
    Where are you located in Maryland ? I am in far western MD.

  14. #14
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Wow David you're moving right along! I upgraded your account so you can edit your profile, etc.

    You might want to try using the [IMG] tag to embed your image files instead of attaching them. Here's an image posting thread as a reference:

    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...tures-in-posts


    GREAT build so far!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  15. #15
    Your build is looking real good there David. do we have a first start video coming soon?
    Rick
    #8442 MK4 Complete kit, 331 Stroker, T5, 3.73 Posi 3-Link, 15", Goodyear Billboards
    Order 8/22/14 Del 11/7/14 First Start 3/9/15 Go Cart 3/14/15 Paint 2/25/16
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-8442-Build

  16. #16
    I was hoping to have it started this week but the wiring has me stumped. I'm working on the dash wiring and have the upgraded dash and vintage gauges. The glove box was assembled and hinges attached, all gauges are installed, indicator lights installed for high beam and blinker. Horn, ignition switch, and headlight switch installed. Switches for high beam, turn signal and hazards installed. I am debating on doing a indicator light for the alternator charging.

    The wiring for the gauges is real nice and easy everything plugs in together. Now the oil pressure sender and wire that came with it go right to the oil pressure gauge and the wiring from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness isn't used. Same with the water temp sender and wire that came with it goes right to the water temp gauge but now I need the other temp sender installed in the manifold and connect it to the temp sender wire to the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness to activate the electric fan...I guess. What happens to the Speedometer and Fuel wiring that came with the gauges, I'm assuming I plug the connector into the gauges and then connect the wires to the corresponding wires from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness, i.e., fuel sender and speed sensor??

    I haven't even thought about the volt or tachometer gauges.

  17. #17
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    I was hoping to have it started this week but the wiring has me stumped. I'm working on the dash wiring and have the upgraded dash and vintage gauges. The glove box was assembled and hinges attached, all gauges are installed, indicator lights installed for high beam and blinker. Horn, ignition switch, and headlight switch installed. Switches for high beam, turn signal and hazards installed. I am debating on doing a indicator light for the alternator charging.

    The wiring for the gauges is real nice and easy everything plugs in together. Now the oil pressure sender and wire that came with it go right to the oil pressure gauge and the wiring from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness isn't used. Same with the water temp sender and wire that came with it goes right to the water temp gauge but now I need the other temp sender installed in the manifold and connect it to the temp sender wire to the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness to activate the electric fan...I guess. What happens to the Speedometer and Fuel wiring that came with the gauges, I'm assuming I plug the connector into the gauges and then connect the wires to the corresponding wires from the Factory Five/Ron Francis harness, i.e., fuel sender and speed sensor??

    I haven't even thought about the volt or tachometer gauges.
    I wrote the response below in the other forum to a similar question. I'll just paste it here FWIW. These questions come up quite often. An area where the instructions could be improved.

    For the Speedhut gauges and RF harness, there are three aspects.

    1. Red/White/Black daisy chain: This provides power to the gauges (red), power to the needles (white) and ground (black). The red wire goes to the brown gauge feed wire in RF harness, white to the dash lighting feed, and black to ground. I also use the brown gauge feed for the input to the voltage gauge. It has +12V any time the ignition key is on, so a good source to read voltage for the gauge.

    2. White/Black daisy chain: This provides power to the backlighting on the gauges, and goes through the supplied inverter and trim pot. White goes to dash lighting feed in the RF harness (same as #1 above) and black to ground.

    3. Each gauge is slightly different, but what remains are the signals for each gauge. This is where I guess it gets a little confusing. Let's talk concepts. Speedhut provides a nice box of sending units and cables to go from the sending units to the gauges. You could absolutely use these as is if you wanted to. On the other hand, the RF harness has a signal wire available for each in the dash harness. The wires route through the main harness and then out sending unit harness that is intended to be routed into the engine compartment. This harness has a connection for oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, tach, choke and fan thermo switch. Whether you use the Speedhut wires end to end, or go through the RF harness, electrically everything is exactly the same. The advantage of using the RF sending unit wires IMO is that it's easier, you have everything in one harness, and the connectors to the dash still work as intended, e.g. you can unplug three connectors and the dash is loose.

    To use the RF sending unit wires, you need to cut off the Speedhut connectors on the gauges and attach those to the RF wires in the dash harness. On the sending unit side, the Speedhut provided water and oil temp (if you're using it) have connectors, so that's why I suggested splicing those wires onto the RF harness wires. The balance can be used by adding a terminal lug (oil pressure) or spade connector to the RF wires. The only slight wrinkle is a ground wire needs to be added in a couple of cases. I usually just add into the sending unit harness and ground them behind the dash. Or you could ground at the engine if you wanted to.

    Where the tach wire goes from the gauges depends on your engine setup. Could be to an ignition box, EFI PCM, or even to the coil if an old school setup. The speedo wires also depend on your setup. Any chance you have the GPS gauges? If so, you don't need the speed sensor. Otherwise, you should have two wires from the speed sensor in the harness. One goes to the speedo, the other to ground. There are several ways to hook up the cooling fan. The RF harness schematic shows a manual switch. If you want to use a sensor, it's wired slightly different. If you want both, a little different again. What are you planning and what sensor?

    That's maybe a long winded answer but hopefully make sense and gives understanding to your specific questions.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-31-2016 at 09:41 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  18. #18
    I figured out the wiring. I dissected some wire looms and combined the alternator wire with the electric choke and temp sensor on the passenger side, made it as clean as I could. Then I put the oil psi, water temp, and distributer wires together in a loom on the drivers side and made that as clean as I could.motor wires passenger side.jpgmotor wires drivers side.jpg
    The MSD ignition box got mounted on the passenger foot box, I thought about mounting it behind the firewall but when I was visiting Doug saw it looked good on the foot box.MSD box mounted.jpg
    I had to add a spacer to mount the dash, its the vinyl dash with glove box with the lip at the top. I use 1/8" x 1/2" aluminum and bent to fit.dash spacer.jpgdash installed over spacer.jpg
    I think it fit good with the spacer. The glove box needed the hinges attached to the door so I used some JB weld and it turned out stronger than I thought.Glove box open.jpg
    The dash ears fit right behind the hinges and need to be mounted so they don't move, I haven't done that yet.dash drivers side ear.jpgdash passenger side ear.jpgdash complete.jpg
    I had some trouble with the first start, I had the red MSD wire connected to the wrong tab on the ignition/key. Once I did some volt test and looked over the schematic I realized what I did wrong. It started right up after I switched the wire. My wife ran out to the garage and got a small video of it running, I'll have to get it from her to upload it. What a week!!

  19. #19
    I installed the drivers side seat and the safety harness that came with the kit, except the 5th point between legs. Where should I mount this, according to the Simpson instructions it looks like under the seat below the lap belt/intersection of chest line and seat....is that correct??

  20. #20
    David,

    I was just reading the instructions and came away with the same interpretation...so I am curious as well.

    I actually never seen the strap installed or even used so I am not sure that for an occasional track mostly street car it's even necessary ... So I am curious if not installing is a safe option.

    Carl
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  21. #21
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidW View Post
    I installed the drivers side seat and the safety harness that came with the kit, except the 5th point between legs. Where should I mount this, according to the Simpson instructions it looks like under the seat below the lap belt/intersection of chest line and seat....is that correct??
    The location you're describing is correct. With the seat mounted near the back, the mounting location will be near the front of the chassis seat pan. It needs to be mounted in something that's solid. Not just the floor aluminum sheeting. I'm not sure how builds with sliding seats are mounting the 5th point. The required forward movement would seem to limit where it can be attached. I've not installed sliding seats, so hasn't been an issue for me.

    The 5th point is a very important component of the harness. It prevents submarining under the harness and keeps the lap belt in the proper location. Serious internal injuries can occur if the belt is in the wrong location. Some may think that's only important for track use and not necessary for street use. Personally I don't agree. Since the car doesn't have any of the other modern safety components (airbags, etc.) I personally want every advantage I can get. My builds have all had the 5th point and we use them at all times. Just becomes a natural part of buckling in. No big deal.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  22. #22
    I am going to make sure to install them! Thanks Carl

    PS David my apologies for jumpin on your thread!
    Mk 4 Roadster
    October 25, 2012 - Kit Arrives
    April 8, 2013 - Build Starts
    August 23, 2015 - Rolling Chassis/Engine & Transmission Installed
    March 26, 2016 - Go Cart

  23. #23
    David - great to meet you a couple of weeks ago at Doug's. Your set up is sweet and you are cruising through your build; probably the Schuylkill County influence in your household - ha ha.

  24. #24
    Thanks again edward. carlewms I'll take all the input I can get, I ended up mounting the 5th point as the instructions say but the seat pan under the aluminum floor isn't as structural as the other 4 mounts, it'll have to do for now and I'll post a photo later.... mistasherm it was nice to meet you also I have a video of the first start my wife took as she ran out into the garage (she was taking the video) I thought she was going to say turn it off so I did then she said again, again. It must be the Schuylkill girl in her, she wasn't very much into the build until it started. I took it for the first drive also and have a video.....I think the motor has to much power for a car this light. It was scary, exciting and fun at the same time, responsibility and respect is definitely required when driving. I'll post the videos once I figure out how to get them off her iphone...I did post them to Google + but the quality sucks. I might have to take another video with my phone and share it.

  25. #25
    Finally figured out all the lights. I temporally connected all lights front and back and ran into a problem with the headlights. Ron Francis has some wires mixed up in their Weather Pack QD. It took me a while to find it, it was driving me crazy.Headlight wires.jpg I switched the wires around using the special tool to get the wires out and they worked great. I even connected the LED courtesy lights for under the dash. It will give plenty of light to figure out the 5 point harness on a dark night.dash lights.jpg

  26. #26

  27. #27

  28. #28
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Wow, LUMPY! I LIKE!!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  29. #29
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    DavidW - thanks for posting to YouTube. I'm a newbie here so I cannot see any pics yet. I hope the first drive went well. - John

  30. #30
    Congratulations! Great progress.

    Some how life has gotten in the way of my build and I don't think I turned a wrench since you stopped over. I'm hoping to get back to it next week.
    Mk4 Roadster #8843. Kit Pickup: 03/19/2016
    Roush Performance 331 SRXE Crate Engine, TKO-600, 3-link rear, 17x9 and 17x10.5 Halibrand wheels w/ Nitto NT05 tires
    Doug's Mk4 Build Thread - Annapolis, MD

  31. #31
    Senior Member
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    Very nice videos! That engine sounds awesome!

    Great feeling to get her out and stretch her legs a bit, huh?

    Congratulations!

    Regards,

    Steve

  32. #32
    So I found that the "Red N Tacky" grease that I used for all the zert fittings seems to liquefy come up out of the zert fitting on the upper control arm and run all over the place, drips on the wheels, finds its way to the bottom of the frame rails. Red N Tacky.jpg

    Does anyone else have this problem?
    Last edited by DavidW; 10-17-2016 at 12:22 PM.

  33. #33
    I had the alignment done, height set to 5". I finally got the pinion seal changed, now its not leaking. I had the upper link axle mount welded to the axle also.
    I fit the body and it was tight, and fit good. Exhaust went on without a problem.
    body fit drivers.jpgbody fit passenger.jpg

    I have a problem with the air cleaner being too tall so I think I'm going to have to get a round drop base, 14" air cleaner and hope it does the trick.
    air cleaner hood.jpg

    So with everything buttoned up except the air cleaner I put it in the trailer and took it to Whitby Motorcars in NC on Veterans day, this past Friday. Now I have an empty garage and will start researching drop base air cleaners that fit my Edelbrock Thunder, AVS Carburetor. I've been told the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake is why its so high, I was really hoping to show off the parts but I guess fitment can be an issue.

  34. #34
    My family experienced our first and hopefully last tornado here on Kent Island Maryland two weeks prior to going to NC for vacation. My trailer ended up being totaled. Whitby was able to work the hood to fit the air cleaner and we have primer. A new trailer has been ordered and hopefully will be picking up the car from Whitby in 3-4 weeks.

    tree 2.jpghood 1.jpgprimer 1.jpg
    Last edited by DavidW; 08-16-2017 at 01:27 PM.

  35. #35
    Ouch - heard about that one and couldn't believe it! Hopefully you and your family are okay. I was in your area the other day, my neighbor is building off Cox Neck - anyway. Car is coming along nicely!

  36. #36
    Hey David,

    How's the painting going?

    Doug
    Mk4 Roadster #8843. Kit Pickup: 03/19/2016
    Roush Performance 331 SRXE Crate Engine, TKO-600, 3-link rear, 17x9 and 17x10.5 Halibrand wheels w/ Nitto NT05 tires
    Doug's Mk4 Build Thread - Annapolis, MD

  37. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by dmoran View Post
    Hey David,

    How's the painting going?

    Doug
    Its still there......349 days today. I guess for them its good to be busy, for me its been a tough year haha. Hopefully Ill get it back soon and post some pics.

  38. #38
    Senior Member
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    David-

    Oh my gosh, it's been there nearly a year? I am so sorry! I hope you get her back soon so you can have her done in time for the spring driving season.

    I have spent a few years up that way, and you certainly have plenty of beautiful places to drive, and I know t will be a thrill when you do get her back. If you need me to swing by Whitby's for some pictures of the progress, I need to go out that way soon, and would be happy to do it. Just shoot me a PM.

    Have you gotten your new trailer yet? Sorry to hear about the tornado. That's hurricane country, not tornado...

    Keep hanging tough, and I look forward to seeing you get your body back soon!

    Regards,

    Steve

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    David-

    Oh my gosh, it's been there nearly a year? I am so sorry! I hope you get her back soon so you can have her done in time for the spring driving season.

    I have spent a few years up that way, and you certainly have plenty of beautiful places to drive, and I know t will be a thrill when you do get her back. If you need me to swing by Whitby's for some pictures of the progress, I need to go out that way soon, and would be happy to do it. Just shoot me a PM.

    Have you gotten your new trailer yet? Sorry to hear about the tornado. That's hurricane country, not tornado...

    Keep hanging tough, and I look forward to seeing you get your body back soon!

    Regards,

    Steve
    Spring season, I'm sure I'll be driving in the cold when I get it back as long as its dry out. I did get the new trailer and its great.

  40. #40
    Just got word its all trimmed out and they should be spraying the body next week. Shouldn't be long now! Beginning of January it should be completed, fingers crossed.
    Last edited by DavidW; 11-29-2017 at 03:50 PM.

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