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Thread: Chedda's 818S build thread

  1. #81
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    Well, it has been a while for an update. So many issues/parts missing from the donor. AUGH!

    I had put in majority of the hoses that cracked and needed to be replaced. Then I started working on the tranny to convert it. Well that was going all nicely until I had to put it all back together. I found out there was a hairline crack in the casing. When I was shifting the gear case over, it broke off. YAY!



    I ordered the new gear casing from subaru. Shortline Subaru sold me the part at a deeeeeeep discount. They gave it to me for what I could find a used one for. I am waiting on the bearings for the shift mechanism since the old ones cannot be used. Soon the tranny will be complete

    Some good news, I had enough waiting to put the motor in. After a good 20 minutes, I was able to get that darn tootin' thing in. Lots of exploit deleteds happened during the whole process. I put it in myself. Lots of stop and go but it went it beautifully!




    I was able to get the wheel studs in finally. I borrowed a neighbors grinder to get them through the speed hole. Torqued those puppies in and bam! The brakes were on as well. I need to get the brackets for the rear. Kind of a bummer that I didn't have them but hey, at least the fronts are in. I don't have any pics of the brakes on but osh well.

  2. #82
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    If you want to prevent the motor from leaning forward so much on the mounts before the trans is attached, you can block up between the firewall area and the engine (say, alternator bracket) until it sits mostly level. Might need to jack from underneath to get it into place.

  3. #83
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    Well, lots of goodies happened today.


    It wouldn't go in without a fight.


    AAAAAND it's in!!!

  4. #84
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    well, it has been a while hasn't it? I have done some touch up here and there and nothing major to report. I am back from Brazil and eager to get going again. Fun money has kind of stopped at the moment since I am changing jobs. grrr money ugh... yeah. I have ordered some wheel spacers and brake brackets for the rears. I will get the speed sensors back in and the e-brake cables into place. I will have this bad boy wheelable soon

  5. #85
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    Things have been going slower these days due to parts missing and trying to figure a few things out. I had some progress today. Rear brakes on and new to me trailing arms and lateral links.







  6. #86
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    After smashing my toe trying to do the axles, I have been out of commission for a minute. Before then, I had installed the brake lines, clutch lines and started the coolant. The problem I have doing the coolant is trying to put the flex hose into the stock radiator hose. I have tried lubing up both sides and heating the rubber to accept the larger flex hose. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I have tried the search feature and haven't found anything on it.




    Once I take a picture of a surprise that I picked up for 7 bucks on amazon (thanks capital one rewards) I will post it up.
    Last edited by chedda; 02-06-2015 at 10:57 AM.

  7. #87
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Chedda,
    connect the bottom of the radiator to the water pump. looks like your thinking of connecting it wrong.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  8. #88
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    I knew someone was going to comment on that. The tube is just sitting there resting. I was trying to put it on the lower part of the radiator.

  9. #89
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    As promised, something to go chu chu chu


  10. #90
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    I guess I am alone on trying to figure out the coolant lines.

  11. #91
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    A little isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol does wonders for slipping coolant hoses over the metal tubes.

  12. #92
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    I'll give it a try.

  13. #93
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    I tried getting it on last night with the rubbing alcohol. I wish I could say I had success. Even tho these are brand new hoses, they are turning out to be a huge PITA.

    I may just buy the tubes and call it done. http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm

    My troubles:

  14. #94
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    Is the hose cold? Get it up to at least room temp to improve flexibility.
    Otherwise, don't know what to tell you.
    Our brand new ones went on with no substantial trouble.
    GATES 22885
    GATES 22886

  15. #95
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    I bought mine from Subaru and they were at room temperature.

  16. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    I tried getting it on last night with the rubbing alcohol.
    Yow!

    I'll be installing coolant pipes soon, so I'm curious to see what workss for you. I read soaking in earm water helps.

  17. #97
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    I heated the hose with a heat gun and used liquid dish soap.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

  18. #98
    Senior Member svanlare's Avatar
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    I may just buy the tubes and call it done. http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm
    +1 for Mike's radiator tubes, that is what I did and it went together smooth.
    -Steve

  19. #99
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    I'm going to try the heat gun effect again when I get home. I have been in talks with Mike already. He has a kit set and ready for me to be shipped out wednesday at the earliest. He may get a paypal payment over the weekend :P

  20. #100

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    I slipped mine on with silicone lubricant.

    One word of caution though, during the dyno tuning of the car at approx 3 hours into it, the hose burst. Once at the engine and the other at the top connection of the radiator. I would suggest getting a larger hose and not forcing it on. Its not worth the $15 a hose costs to be broken down on the side of the road with a busted hose.

  21. #101
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    Well, I said screw it and went with Mike's kit. After struggling with it for a few hours today with all your tips and tricks, I've had it. I want to do it right and silky smooth lines make me happy

    Today was also a monumental day today. I got the axles done and lowered it down for the very first time in it's life. I still don't have my 5mm spacers for the front because people don't ship things when they say they do. I know I have to adjust the steering since it is crazy toe in due to the steering being short. (Sorry for the potato quality) grease got on the lense.




  22. #102
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    Congrats! Awesome milestone!
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  23. #103
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    Hell yeah, I want a ride!

  24. #104
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    wow, has it been a month? Stupid snow and not enough room in the garage for a heater.... Well, I got some new parts and slapped them all on.

    Perrin turbo inlet tube - PITA to install
    TurboSmart BOV
    Replicaparts.com coolant tubes. My god are they awesome!

    as she sits now








    Onto the wiring diet... I have contacted Brian from iWire to see how long the wait is. No word yet but that is because it is Sunday.
    Last edited by chedda; 03-08-2015 at 02:03 PM.

  25. #105
    818 builder metalmaker12's Avatar
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    Snow? What snow..... I got 3 1/2feet- 4 feet in my front yard after a week of melting and we have had about 100 inches of snow in just jan and feb. .... Btw car looks good bro image.jpg
    818S frame #13 Jdm version 8 ej207

  26. #106
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    It has been a warm 2 days and that is where all the snow went. I can't complain to the peeps on the east coast. When it is cold, the plastic parts break off easily. I had to replace the turbo inlet tube since the rubber on the hose basically turned to plastic and snapped the tube :/ That was a pain in the rear to replace.

  27. #107
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    A buddy of mine is really wanting to tackle the exhaust work. What are your guys' thoughts? I'm liking the tear drop idea.







  28. #108
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    Terrible terrible work. Whatever junk he makes you should just scrap* it.


    *please call with time and location of scrapping such that I can "salvage" it.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  29. #109
    Senior Member Frank818's Avatar
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    Wooo, those welds man, those welds! Why would you need our opinions when you already know them?
    Frank
    818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
    Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
    Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
    Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
    Build Completed Winter 2021

  30. #110
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    It is all about the tip. Tear drop or straight out. He does amazing work. He is extremely fair for his price.

  31. #111
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    Tear drop or straight out.
    Those r some amazing looking tear drops but they seem more hot-rod-ish, I vote straight

    Quote Originally Posted by chedda View Post
    It is all about the tip.
    giggity

  32. #112
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    Can he make something not round or tear drop from folded sheet?

    Think, Aventador or P1 GTR.
    Zero Decibel Motorsports
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  33. #113
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    I guess it has been a month since my last post... wowzers.

    Installed the dead pedals



    Took the car to a buddies shop to do a compression test and fabricate the exhaust.




    I decided to fill the motor with oil and see if it would leak.. sure crap it did... Looked where it leaked and the head we leaking. Tracked it down to the covers and took them off. Noticed that there some snapped bolts for the cam covers and that is where it was leaking

    Grr ARGH!


    We decided to pull the motor out to get the heads off and thought about doing the TGV deletes as well.


  34. #114
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    ARP head studs are not bomb proof. Somehow they got scored and took the whole thing out of the block. ARP head stud is on it's way!



    Took apart the heads and it was gross underneath
    Before:



    After:



    While the heads were at the machine shop getting the broken bolts out of the cam covers... I decided to do other things. Went to a metal depo and bought some pieces that were missing from the kit and that are included in the new kits. I built a rear firewall and under the floor cover that goes under the seats.


  35. #115
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    Test fitting the behind the seats firewall


    And as always... Shinnanigans always happen in the shop
    (not me)

  36. #116
    Senior Member Tamra's Avatar
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    I'm trying to remember, didn't you buy new heads or a block or something? Had you modified the heads at all or were they sold to you like that?

    What a bummer
    Tamra
    Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
    First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
    First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
    First autocross 3/29/15
    1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!

  37. #117
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    The block is rebuilt and the heads were sold to me like this sadly. Finding all of that after putting it all together and I was really close to a start. Now it will be properly built and completed. This is what I get for trying to hurry up and build the car.

  38. #118
    Senior Member xxguitarist's Avatar
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    So you bought them already assembled to each other, then? Otherwise you would have had a hand on the head studs, cam brackets, and the valve cover?

    The carbon & stuff is not ideal, but pretty expected for a used head.

    Make sure you clean up the valves & seat where they interface- it looks like it's pitted a bit. Lapping is fine, or you can have it machined if you wish.
    -Andrew

    Building 818S/R #297 with Tamra
    08 Mazdaspeed3 | '12 F800R | '97 Miata

  39. #119
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    yes, I had put the heads on but they were put on at OEM torque specs. All went well going in until I moved the car. The bolts snapped. Good thing they snapped now and not while running the motor.

  40. #120
    Senior Member Canadian818's Avatar
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    Great job on the build. I love the wheels. I know the rears are 17x9 +45, mind sharing what the fronts are?
    Adam _____ Instagram @PopesProjects____ YouTube Channel
    818 SRX - #91
    Arrived 01/02/2014
    First Start 10/31/2016
    First Drive 05/22/2017
    Registered 10/25/2019 BRAP818

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