Transmission Swap in complete car

[dagall]

I have developed a grind going into fourth gear. Anybody do a swap in the complete car? Did you do your own tear down and rebuild?

[michael everson]

If I remember right, it is darn near impossible to get it out from underneath. I needed to remove the tunnel and take it out from the interior. I don't thing you can pull it far enough back and still clear the tunnel.
Mike

[dagall]

That was not what I wanted to hear. I really don't want to take apart the interior. I will give it a closer look this weekend. Thanks

[Olli]

I also pulled the tranny out from the inside of the car. Removed the seat (bench,) removed tunnel, removed driveshaft, pulled tranny back then up and out. I did this twice! (faulty convertor from TCI) OR pull the engine and trans combo out from the front. Either way it isn't fun.


Olli

[dagall]

Could it be that maybe I have too much or not enough preload in the hydraulic clutch? I am not pulling the whole engine out. Good thing is I don't have to pull the bell housing, just the box. I will pull the carpet up and remove the tunnel if I need to. Thanks guys.

[erlihemi]

I would definitely recheck the clutch adjustment first, however, if you don't have issues down shifting in the other gears then likely its a synchro issue internally or forks and rails. find someone who has specific professional experience with your specific tranny. It would be a shame to pull it out only to find its a detent ball in the rail or the stop adjustment on the shifter.
Still need to pull the tunnel in this chassis in any case. Unless you have a unique short shaft tranny its nearly impossible to drop it out the bottom. Sometimes you can get lucky with an in car fix. Is it a T5??

[dagall]

It is a WC T5. I have a friend who is very knowledgable and will meet up with him this weekend.

[bbksv]

If it makes you feel better..I have never messed with transmissions and I rebuilt my t-5 myself..it was easy. I have a video that I followed step by step.

[Doutie]

Dagall, It's common to lose the sycros in lower gears by the way we like to drive these cars, banging second etc. But losing fourth syncro is unusual and points me to a different diagnosis. Fourth gear happens when the sliding clutch and syncro connect the main shaft ( output shaft) directly to the transmission input shaft. The expressions "1 to 1" or direct are used to describe this selection. Anything that prevents a good alignment between these two shafts will cause the syncro to malfunction. Commend causes are bad pocket bearing between the shafts, bad input shaft bearing, bad pilot bearing or bushing in crankshaft, or bellhousing that is not aligned with crankshaft centerline.

[dagall]

If it makes you feel better..I have never messed with transmissions and I rebuilt my t-5 myself..it was easy. I have a video that I followed step by step.

That does make me feel a little better. Where did you get the rebuild kit and video. thanks

[erlihemi]

Doutie has a good point, If 4th is cocked due to pocket bearing or input shaft misalignment it will shift hard from 5 to 4 or 3 to 4. If you do find a bad bearing then look for a root cause such as bellhousing misalignment. Mustang sites are all over this issue.

[dagall]

Well, Now we are talking about it. First, second and third are a pretty tight shift and very short. I have checked the shifter stop screws and they are far enough out. It doesn't pop out of gear, just a bit shorter and more stiff than in my previous mustangs and my cobra. I bought it from a guy on the other forum that had it sitting for a little while but said it had been rebuilt. I am thinking differently at this point. Really should have had it checked out before putting it in.

[dagall]

I looked at it this weekend and it looks like I should just have just enough room to get the gear box out. Probably would not be able to remove the bell housing without pulling the cover and screwing up the interior. Anybody try this?

[erlihemi]

If you can get the tail housing down below the chassis without the valve covers hitting the firewall the bell might clear depending on how much you pushed the throttle relief over on the cover. Good luck and let us know. With the mounts centered on the motor the header and steering column could get in the way of dropping the back down too.

[bbksv]

I got it off ebay..it was pretty good. I will send it to you if you want it. Just PM me

[dagall]

I am now wondering about the bellhousing. I bought the T5 off of a guy on the forum and it was attached to a bellhousing. The T5 did not have a tag on it so I couldn't tell any numbers or year of the transmission. The bell housing is different in that the clutch for opening is much lower than it should be. It is around the 7 o'clock position where is should be more like 8. I am running a hydraulic clutch with a bracket and had to shim the bracket to lower the slave cylinder to match the clutch fork opening. The trans was a little stubborn when I installed it and seemed tight. So, I am now wondering if I have and early T5 with a late model bellhousing. I read that the late model bellhousings were changed for the SN95 car. Possibly the transmission is binding causing the shifting issue. Thoughts?

[dagall]

It has to come out and will be pulling the motor/trans together so I don't have to tear up the interior. Drove it yesterday and the trans locked up and limped it home. Just wondering if I need to take the radiator/grill off to clear the combo.
Thanks

[dagall]

I pulled the engine/tranny out without removing the radiator last weekend. Took it to Lamotta Performance and Jake to it apart immediately. He found that it was missing a snap ring which caused the blocker ring to bounce around and create shifting issues. It fried the input shaft as well due to the heat that it generated. The good news is that it is a Tremec M-7003-Z, with the pocket bearing input shaft. Will accept good horsepower (425) and torque (325-330) once it is back together.

[bbksv]

So how tough was it to take out without taking out the radiator?

[dagall]

It was a little tight, but slow rise and a slight turn out of the driver side of the bay and it came right out. Putting it back may be a different story, but so far so good.