MR2 Shifter

[wleehendrick]

My 818 shifter (k-tuned, not MR2, but direct run cables) feels more like my Z (stiff, notchy, but precise like a bolt action rifle) than my Audi (buttery smooth and accurate, but not 'crisp', a little disconnected).

[Harley818]

Where are you guys getting the nice red anodized rod ends?

[Mechie3]

McMaster has them.

[STiPWRD]

I got mine from McMaster for $15 but realized after they're available on Ebay (China) for $5. Oh well, at least the red ones look great and are probably better quality.

Btw, I completed this MR2 mod with custom control cables (82" length) and the shift feel is night and day better than with the stock cables. I'd highly suggest this mod to anyone thinking about it.
IMAG1297.jpgIMAG1298.jpg

[Mechie3]

I just searched ebay and I'm confused as to what this particular seller is actually offering:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QA1-Rod-End-...8e21d7&vxp=mtr

Likely doesn't matter for this application, but it says they have a nylon/PTFE race (it's usually one or the other, not both) and then it says "metal to metal contact for greater strength" which means there is no liner (ie, no nylon/teflon). lol

McMaster tends to take their prices and jack them up by 50-100% of getting them elsewhere but you can get them within a day or two and don't need to buy more than 1 (like some other US distibutors).

[Mechie3]

double post

[Harley818]

STipWRD,
With the shifter dropped into the tunnel, do you have enough side to side shift without hitting the side of the tunnel.
I dropped mine about 1 inch and I had interference with the side tunnel rails...... but I didn't have the shifter hooked up so I don't know how much lateral I need. Maybe we don't need the whole MR2 side movement?

[STiPWRD]

STipWRD,
With the shifter dropped into the tunnel, do you have enough side to side shift without hitting the side of the tunnel.
I dropped mine about 1 inch and I had interference with the side tunnel rails...... but I didn't have the shifter hooked up so I don't know how much lateral I need. Maybe we don't need the whole MR2 side movement?

Yes, the shift rod/knob has loads of free space. However, I centered the shifter in the tunnel so I only have 1mm of clearance between the side-to-side bell crank and the frame. This obviously doesn't leave any room for a bolt head or nut on the left side of the clevis attachment point so you have to get clever with the way you attach the shift cable to the side-to-side bell crank. The right side also doesn't have much clearance (about 3/8") when you're in first or second gear.

I suggest drilling and tapping a 1/4-20 hole along the 10mm OD rod that is riveted into the top of the MR2 side-side bell crank (where shift cable attaches). This allows you to slip a 10mm ID ball joint end onto that rod and secure it with a washer/bolt while clearing the shifter in first/second. I drilled a .25 thru hole along the axis of that rod and didn't leave myself room for threads so I pushed in a 0.25 spring pin with cross-drilled .050 hole and R-clip to retain the ball joint end. I'll try to take a pic sometime.

Edit: here are some pics before I installed the spring pin to retain the bigger rod end.
IMAG1254.jpgIMAG1299.jpg

[craigfree]

Can anyone give me a reference for what they were paying for the MR2 shifter? I'm seeing:
no name eBay shifters for 25
used 91 for 45
93 and up at 85
trd is 100

Really wondering if the eBay Chinese quality is usable. I can't get over the used price of these, seems extremely high.

Anyone use the Chinese eBay ones like:
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...623859&alt=web

And this image was sent to me and I think it's great at highlighting the shifter differences

[craigfree]

Anyone try out the 25 dollar eBay shifters? I was trying to pick up a used shifter and was a more than shocked at a shifter price. There's also differences on years, but I don't think that matters.

Prices I'm seeing
91-92 assembly $45 shipped
93+ $85 shipped
Trd $100 shipped

Photo showing Differences in shifters.

[Mechie3]

Skip the TRD, it's not needed. I think both RM1SepX and Bobncincy have one of the ebay aftermarket levers. Not sure what makes the 93 any different. I think prices are getting jacked up because people suddenly started to scoop them up. They used to sit at $19 all day for months.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I just used parts off my $25 mr2 ebay shifter. It is working great.
I cannot tell any difference in the shifter play and throw compared to our Subaru Impreza.
I think I used the #1 shaft in the picture above.
Bob
shifter.jpg shifter2.jpg shifter3.jpg shifter4.jpg

[craigfree]

Alright, thanks I'll order the eBay shifter. If I have issues, I'll report back.

[Scargo]

Haven't used it yet but I got mine for $46 shipped. MR2 turbo shifter shift box assembly lever TRD OEM 93-95 SW20 USDM JDM 1 ( 281260065597 )
It is in excellent condition.

Added EDIT: If you get the $25 Chinese piece don't you still need the rest of the mount? Got to have something for it to ride in!

[craigfree]

Thanks Scargo, guess I'm back to trying and finding one cheaper. Thanks so much everyone.

[Harley818]

I think mine was $39 for a used MR2 shifter. a bargain. its the new cables that are expensive at about $170
I don't have it all together yet...but getting close.

[Hindsight]

What size cable ends are you guys running? 4-series with the 1/4" (or M6) ends?

[STiPWRD]

I used the 4-series with 1/4-28 threaded ends (100-04222-0082). The FFR provided cables are also 1/4-28.

[Hindsight]

Cool thank you.

[Mitch Wright]

Same here, series 4 and 1/4-28 rod ends.

[Hindsight]

One more Q: Where are you guys finding Threaded standoffs with a 1/4-28 thread size (to connect two male rod ends)? McMaster only has 1/4-20... I found a hexadecimal tube on ebay that would work but it was $45 including shipping. I may try to just cut my own threads in a spacer tube instead.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

One more Q: Where are you guys finding Threaded standoffs with a 1/4-28 thread size (to connect two male rod ends)? McMaster only has 1/4-20... I found a hexadecimal tube on ebay that would work but it was $45 including shipping. I may try to just cut my own threads in a spacer tube instead.

These are the ones I used.
Bob

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90268a325/=10j2f4g

[Hindsight]

Thanks Bob, I may need something longer but I will wait and see how everything lines up.

[STiPWRD]

For some reason McMaster didn't have a large selection of 1/4-28 hex standoffs so I bought some 10-32 standoffs and re-drilled and taped them for 1/4-28. There is much more selection of lengths. The existing threaded holes helped guide my hand drill since I don't have a drill press.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#91780a082/=10j8vx9

[Mitch Wright]

I bought a 1 ft lenght of aluminum tubing from McMaster Carr cut to the length I needed and taped it to 1/4-28.

[Hindsight]

Thanks guys.

[Mechie3]

Even better: Buy a 1/4-28 left hand tap. Make one side RH, one side LH. Lets you make quick and easy adjustments.

[Hindsight]

I bought one right and one left-hand threaded rod end for that. But that too is a good idea Mechie.

Making the linkage is tricky.... you have to ensure the ratios on the bell-crank are right, and then have to ensure the clamp or bulkhead location isn't obstructed by any of the transmission components protruding into the area you need to put the clamp. Mechie, I really liked and benefit from your idea to use the threaded tubes to space the mounts further back. I probably won't make mine as long as yours, but even 1-2" buys you enough room to clear any protrusions you need to work around. A lot of good engineering brains in this here thread!

[RM1SepEx]

I bought female rod ends and used 1/4 - 28 threaded rod

[flynntuna]

Has anyone put a short sifter kit to their shifter?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mr2+short+shifter

[Mitch Wright]

My stock MR2 shifter has a really short throw, personally I wouldn't want it shorter.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I tried one on the short shifter post like in your picture. But ended up with the taller 8" MR2 post.
I like the feel of the taller one better.

length.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

I used the stock one and had to raise it 2 + inches over the existing tunnel to get the height to match the Miatas. You can adjust length of throw with the bell crank on the other end

[redfogo]

The 93+ is about as short as you would want to go if you have the position for it. I feel for most 818 builders a 85-92 shifter is your best bet. I have tried just about every shifter in my MR2 or other friends who have an MR2s. 93 felt the best out of all of them, and what I used in my car. Most MR2 owners feel the 93 is the "perfect shifter". I highly recommend "93" if you plan to have the shifter up higher, other wise "85-92" will work great. B&M and the drop plates are junk, I hated shifting with them a lot.

[Hindsight]

I used one from the early 90's and welded a steel plate to it with a bunch of holes to allow for adjustment. Even so, I'm probably going to have an extension on the top of it to extend the shift knob up higher to get it where I want it. I'm about 3/4 done with my Mr2 shifter setup; will post pics when done. Some in-progress pics in my build thread now though.

[Innkeepr]

Cant find any at the local yards, checked ebay - only found the plastic newer ones. Is there some secret hiding place for these ?

[Hindsight]

Hit or miss on ebay. Sometimes there are a few, sometimes none. Check some MR2 forums and car-part.com.

[Hindsight]

Here is my setup.

For the shifter assembly:
- Replaced all the bushings with new OEM. The bottom ball cup bushing is very expensive!
- Made a new top plate of 1/8" aluminum
- Cut the bell crank arm off the shifter assembly and welded a longer piece of steel on that I drilled more holes in for adjustability and shorter throw on the left to right movement
- Welded a piece of steel to the shift arm and drilled holes in it for adjustability and shorter throw on the front to back movement
- Welded 3/16" angle aluminum to the base, tipped back at an angle to mount the cables
- Used 1/4-28 bronze bushing rod ends from McMaster
- I added a shift lever extension I bought on eBay for about $12 to get the shift knob up to where I wanted it

For the rear:
- Made brackets out of a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum (eBay or McMaster). Used wood to make a mockup first (I think DMC gave me this tip). I spaced the bracket out from the transmission at the mounting point using some 3/4" long aluminum standoffs that have the right ID for an M8 bolt.
- I bolted the two piece bracket together
- Bell crank is made of the same aluminum as the bracket
- I cut the aluminum with a hand-held jigsaw and a table saw
- Used oilite bronze washers at the bell crank
- Drilled and tapped the components where needed
- I cut the collar off the OEM shift linkage piece (the part that slides onto the transmission shifting shaft and has the spring pin going through it), then welded it to a piece of steel bar. I figured this would make a more secure mounting of the linkage arm and can re-use the OEM spring pin and won't have to drill any additional holes in the transmission shifter shaft.
- Couldn't find a threaded tube in 1/4-28 so I found an aluminum tube from McMaster with the right ID for 1/4-28 thread, then tapped it myself. This is for the couplers on the rod ends in the back

I used the OEM FFR cables to test the setup, and will now need to measure and order new custom-length cables. I plan on adding some head sleeving around the cables where they go over the engine. Also getting a nicer shift knob. There appears to be plenty of room behind the shifter for the donor e-brake handle. I will need to make my own shift boot and e-brake boot.

Rear bracket:




Here is an earlier shot showing the standoffs used to space the bracket out from the transmission:

Front shifter assembly showing the modified shift arm and bell crank:


Complete shifter assembly in car (just before mounting with 1/4" rivnuts):



Linkage in motion:



After trimming down the rear bracket pieces to remove excess metal, radius the hard edges, and sand/scuff them out a bit:

[RetroRacing]

What cable length did you use?

[Hindsight]

Still using the stock FFR cables as I fabricated the setup. Now that I'm done, I need to drill a hole in the firewall and measure for a set of custom cables. They will be different lengths. That's the next item on my todo list but I'm expecting them to be somewhere around 7' in length.