Front Upper Control Arm Ball Joints

[2FAST4U]

Tried installing my ball joints but they stop short of seating by about 1/4". Should they go all the way in?

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yes.

Jeff

[2FAST4U]

Jeff, any secret? I'm using a huge wrench and they just won't budge. Add a 4' section of pipe?

Thanks
Bill

[2FAST4U]

Deleted

[NukeMMC]

Get rid of the FFR supplied Mev-O-Tech made in China junk. Their dimensions are all over the place. Get Moog 772s and they will work great.
See my thread on this very issue.

[Erik W. Treves]

put the ball joints in the freezer for an hour....right before you install them heat the control arm....assemble....goes in really easy!

[2FAST4U]

Is this close enough?

[NukeMMC]

Is this close enough?

You have to drive it, not me. Personally, I wouldn't trust the spindles to seat evenly unless the balljoints were seated fully. Having the spindles not at the same height will have you chasing your tail when it comes time to do final alignment.

[2FAST4U]

Thanks. When I get the body off I'll add a 4' section of pipe to the wrench. The other side I'll try Erik's method. If all fails it's off to a machine shop

[NukeMMC]

Just remember that at some point you may need to remove them. The Moog' s are $15 each at Summit. Probably a bit less than what a machine shop will charge.
If you have dial calipers, measure IDs (minor diameter) of the UCA sockets and ODs of the ball joints. Compare both major and minor thread diameters of the ball joints to each other. You may be surprised. I was more disappointed.

[2FAST4U]

I'm going to purchase this Snapon ball joint socket - $90

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=snapon-store

[Jeff Kleiner]

Before spending money on different joints, machine shop services or high dollar tools try this---I clamp the ball joint firmly into my big bench vice then thread the control arm onto it, effectively using the arm as it's own wrench. I've never had a problem getting them to seat fully using this method.

Good luck,
Jeff

[CHOTIS BILL]

If you add a little heat to the A-arm part it should help. The aluminum should expand faster than the steel ball joint part.

Good luck,

Bill Lomenick

[NukeMMC]

The socket portion of the UCA is steel.

[NukeMMC]

Before spending money on different joints, machine shop services or high dollar tools try this---I clamp the ball joint firmly into my big bench vice then thread the control arm onto it, effectively using the arm as it's own wrench. I've never had a problem getting them to seat fully using this method.

Good luck,
Jeff

By the looks of the flats on the ball joints with the cross hatched impressions in them, he did that, as I did also. As stated in my thread, it required over 250ftlbs to seat the "easier" one on my build, while the one that didn't seat took 360ftlbs to remove. Some of these MevOTech ball joints are THAT bad, as I wasn't the only one to replace them with Moog units that threaded in with no issue.

[Tony Zullo]

Hi guys Tony @ffr if you have trouble installing the ball joint what i do is just sand or wire wheel the coating off , and it will go right in!! The coating is thicker on some of them so thats the reason why they go in tough .. Thanks!!

[2FAST4U]

Hi guys Tony @ffr if you have trouble installing the ball joint what i do is just sand or wire wheel the coating off , and it will go right in!! The coating is thicker on some of them so thats the reason why they go in tough .. Thanks!!

A little late for me on the first ball joint. Why not add that to the manual?

[2FAST4U]

By the looks of the flats on the ball joints with the cross hatched impressions in them, he did that, as I did also. As stated in my thread, it required over 250ftlbs to seat the "easier" one on my build, while the one that didn't seat took 360ftlbs to remove. Some of these MevOTech ball joints are THAT bad, as I wasn't the only one to replace them with Moog units that threaded in with no issue.

Yep! Tried that but didn't succeed. Had better results mounting them and using a huge crescent wrench

[Tony Zullo]

If you want to remove them i can send you new ones, and ill take the coating off..

[2FAST4U]

I don't even think the one will come out. I'm going to try your suggestion on the other one

Note: used a wire wheel and removed the coating on the ball joint threads as suggested. I was able to thread it further freehand, but it still stops 1/16" from seating using the vise method in the manual. I'll just get the ball joint tool, a 3/4" breaker bar, and a 3 ft section of pipe to get them to seat

[NukeMMC]

PM me an address and I will loan you my tool. Just send it back when you're done.

[2FAST4U]

PM me an address and I will loan you my tool. Just send it back when you're done.

What kind of tool?

[NukeMMC]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-124-10001

[2FAST4U]

Awesome. Sent you a pm

[rmiller64]

Hi Bill

I just installed my ball joints on Sunday with a socket similar to the post here purchased from Summit for $16.95. downside it was a 3/4 drive and had to get adapter to 1/2.

Mine treaded in easily almost to end where the socket finished it up flush. lucky for me because I had already applied Blue Loctite to the threads. If you need I can Pop the socket into the mail down to you also

[2FAST4U]

Thanks Rick, but NukeMMC beat you to it.

[2FAST4U]

Got my ball joints firmly seated today, thanks to NukeMMC, who was kind enough to send me the ball joint socket tool to use. Made the job so easy.

Again, thanks NukeMMC.