can someone please send me a link to the process for collapsing the steering column for more room
Thanks
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can someone please send me a link to the process for collapsing the steering column for more room
Thanks
Dude, you just picked up your kit a day or two ago and you are already putting the column in?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Column-Spacers
Thanks. column in no not yet, I am working on trial fitting and reworking the column and other parts as I drill, paint and install aluminum panels. I am still waiting on some suspension parts and my canadian finising kit.
Todd, I used Longisland's post to shorten the steering column, worked like a charm.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post150494
BF Hammer.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
Take it easy with the hammer and go slowly, it doesn't take much force at all to compress the column and as other have mentioned, pulling it out is much more of a pain than pushing it in.
Roger, Thanks
How about un-shorting the column.
Mike explained how to do it. After fitting the console and shifter, I found out that I need to lengthen the column back. Probably 1". I followed Mike's procedure with the clamps on the tube and hammering on the clamps. That worked fine, the tube came out.
Now I am trying to lengthen the shaft. Mike did it. It doesn't work at all for me. Doesn't move at all.
Something wrong in my setup?
2014-12-06 18.05.59.jpg2014-12-06 18.06.10.jpg
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I don't recall exactly the length of the shaft but are you sure it is not out all the way already? Maybe some one with an unmolested column can give you a measurement. I pushed mine in too far but was easily able to move it back by prying with a pickle fork type ball joint separator between the column and the U joint with the whole thing still in place in the chassis. Because of the distance yours is out already you may need to cut a slot in a block of wood to slide over the shaft to pry against.
I thought of that possibility, but when I put it in place, it's still to the max of what Rori's spacer accepts, which is 2" less than OEM if I recall. So there should be at least another 2" I can get back.
My column measures 27-7/8" from the white plastic block (right after the hub) to the edge of the shaft. It was like that before I lengthen it and after, which means I should have length left.
If prying like I did with the tie-down straps did not do anything, I don't see how a slot in a block of wood would be better. Maybe I don't picture correctly what you suggest.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
Frank, is there a way you can get the steering wheel side of the straps more centered? I had to re lengthen mine, and found that pulling the way you did didn't work because of the slight angle, but when I wrapped through the metal supports in the center of the stock steering wheel it pulled out pretty easily.
You may also be losing some of your pulling power due to flex in that front frame tube.
What Bill said. I think the straps have to be pretty centered along the length of the steering column to get the pulling force to actually extend the section (rather than jam up due to twerking the collapsed column). It came out without too much force when I got it to work.
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Hadn't thought of that! I will give it a try.
Regarding the flex in tube, well I tried to strap one end on my Subaru's engine (other car) and the other on the FFR front frame, but the force was pulling the frame out of the jack stands. Well no, but I could hear cracks and see a slight movement, so I stopped. Car is too light without an engine. I'll try to find a place to center the straps. If it works, I'll add that variable to our "book knowledge". loll
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I strapped one side to a post in the garage and the other to a column of my lift. Similar option might be two support posts in your basement if you have exposed steel posts.
You just need something between the column and U joint to pry against. I was able to put one pickle fork against the column and pry with another but your column is further out than mine was so I think you'll need more thickness. Mine moved very easily, minimal force with one hand.
Ha, between column and U joint. Might have been a good way, better way should I say.
But I made it! It required many hours of work, a lot of loud swears trying to tie up all this thing with only 2 hands without breaking anything on the column. A complex tie-down setup. And then a lot of force hammering on the U joint. I decided to use a wood block, soft enough to not dismantle the joint, yet hard enough to transfer the hammering power to the joint and pull that s*cker out.
Maybe my shaft was very tight in that hole. I mean... oh god I didn't mean to write it that way! The column shaft might have been very tight within the column tube. I don't know. But it worked out.
I added almost 1-5/8" on the tube and a little more than 1" on the shaft. This way if I never need to add length, I won't need to hit on the tube. But that's the easy part anyway. I added a bit more so that if I need to adjust I will compress it a little again. Like longislandNYRangers said, it's a frickin lot easier to collapse than unshorten. Now the tube sits over the shaft. Not like OEM if I recall, but meh, it works.
The column also now sits on the bolt holes close to the sw, instead of those farther away up front. I found out too that these holes (farther ahead) are limiting movements cuz the nuts hit on the column's bracket.
Anyway, all that is sorted out now. But the short story is, yes, if you shorten it too much, you can unshorten it and it does not affect the column's behaviour (still turns no problem).
2014-12-07 17.55.05.jpg2014-12-07 17.55.25.jpg2014-12-07 17.55.37.jpg2014-12-07 17.55.52.jpg
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I needed to shorten mine 4.5 in you think there is some collapsing still in there for safety or should I take it apart and cut it? thx sam