The first test fit, with the shock impressed to the bump stop I was able to turn the wheel full lock without touching the body or the frame. Camber set to about 1.5 deg.
Saturday auto x at Mid State airport with the Central Pennsylvania Region SCCA
It took several runs last Sunday at a Philly event just to get the mold release off of the new tires. They are finally getting grippy and I can finally start to get a feel for what she can really do. Braking was an issue, the fronts just locked and at high RPM's it felt like the rear was still pushing me as I locked up and under-steered. I started making half turn adjustments to the willwood adjuster, turning down the fronts. I think after about 3-4 full turns the rears are defiantly helping now. Braking is strong and confidence inspiring now, and you can see the difference from saturday to sunday.
Sunday was much better. I kept adjusting my brake bias and the car kept getting better and better as I learned how it handles. Its amazing how much more confident it feels when all 4 brakes are contributing!
I for some reason cannot get the youtube video to play in the forum. I got it to work once before but can't get it again... back to the garage where I belong.
Nice! You were really driving the car in the 2nd video. Looking good!
We had to adjust the brake bias to the rear quite a bit too.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
Fitment photos, I have the spring perch adjusted all the way down and compressed the shock to the bump stop.
The front is 215/40/17 on 17x8 et 45 with no spacer. there is plenty of room inside and out. it looks like 235 would fit fine but the diameter is the issue. These do not rub at all
For the rear I got 255/35/18 18x9.5 et38 But they rub the front upper control arm. These photos are with a 10MM spacer essentially making them ET28. I think 31-32 would be ideal offset. There is a minimal amount of rub only on the driver side fender, but i need to shift the body a little and get a proper alignment. I will have my spacers shaved to 7MM and it will be perfect without much room for anything wider.
Blooper reel, Learning about the pendulum effect/lift off over-steer of the rear engine. https://youtu.be/AY8sogWfGkQ
And this is what will happen if you nail a cone at 60MPH without any support inside of the front bumpers... vid in the blooper reel of the damage and a nice view of the front suspension (once the cone is out of the way)
I have the brake bias adjuster maxed out and I still feel like I need some more rear bite so I istalled the H6 rear brake upgrade, Rear caliper brackets, rotors, and pads from a 2003 Legacy H6 bolt right on and have about 1" larger diameter.
Great videos! That autox track looks fun. Out of curiosity, are you running the stiffer springs in the back? Any sway bar? You seem to have a lot more oversteer issues than we do. We do have the race shocks though, and the 500lb springs on the front.
I actually had a photo of your car sent to me via facebook a few weeks ago, from someone I know down in Penn that saw it. We are definitely close enough - we should meet up at an event sometime! Do you ever go to NNJR? It's 1 hour 40 min from you. We are only 3 hours apart (Landsdale, PA to Shelton, CT). Your track looks like so much fun, we might just have to make the drive and meet you there sometime and we can race our 818's .
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
So far I have assembled everything according to the manual, yellow shocks, and using the donors sway bar. I have not had a profeaonal alignment, zero toe f/r -1 camber front and -.5 rear.
suspension setup suggestions will be greatly appreciated. there is a bit of understeer at the limit but at lower speeds if I turn in too quickly the rear will break loose.
I've never been to nnjr, its a bit further than I typically go. Pocono was awesome, 2 days, capped entry made for a lot of runs on the 70-80sec courses. CPR at mid state airport will probably be my next event. large open runway and lots of runs.
I really need to focus on finishing up the body work, I've done 50miles worth of autox and it has not given me any mechanical issues other than the shifter being really crappy. but I think I have to stiff of a clutch that i think dosent fully disengage making it hard to shift
Originally Posted by Tamra
Great videos! That autox track looks fun. Out of curiosity, are you running the stiffer springs in the back? Any sway bar? You seem to have a lot more oversteer issues than we do. We do have the race shocks though, and the 500lb springs on the front.
I actually had a photo of your car sent to me via facebook a few weeks ago, from someone I know down in Penn that saw it. We are definitely close enough - we should meet up at an event sometime! Do you ever go to NNJR? It's 1 hour 40 min from you. We are only 3 hours apart (Landsdale, PA to Shelton, CT). Your track looks like so much fun, we might just have to make the drive and meet you there sometime and we can race our 818's .
The biggest issue I see in your current set up is your alignment. Typically, on a RWD car like the 818, you would want to run more rear camber than front camber. We currently have -2 front and -3 rear. Also, if the rear still likes to come around, doing a little toe in on the rear (1/16-1/8") can help stabilize the car.
Since you have the S springs, your car probably rolls a little bit. That means that even if your rear tires have a wide contact patch driving in a straight line, when you turn, the body roll will cause the contact patch to move to the outer edge of the tire, which will give you less contact patch and bad tire wear. You want to increase the camber until the point where when you turn, and the car rolls, it actually goes from an inner contact patch to using the entire tire (max grip).
The front of the 818 is a bit limited for camber unless you cut the upper arms. At -1 you might be maxed out without modifying them. To start, I would recommend increasing your rear camber to somewhere in the range of -2 to -2.5 if you are on street tires.
Note: I just noticed you are running the OEM rear lateral links. These might limit your camber adjustment (we have the FFR adjustable ones). You'll have to play with that upper bar to see what you can get.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
Thanks for the advice, After looking at the tire wear more rear camber will be defanatly be beneficial. I'll make adjustments and report back after the Cone Killer Classic http://scca-cpr.com/wp/?p=315
Originally Posted by Tamra
The biggest issue I see in your current set up is your alignment. Typically, on a RWD car like the 818, you would want to run more rear camber than front camber. We currently have -2 front and -3 rear. Also, if the rear still likes to come around, doing a little toe in on the rear (1/16-1/8") can help stabilize the car.
Since you have the S springs, your car probably rolls a little bit. That means that even if your rear tires have a wide contact patch driving in a straight line, when you turn, the body roll will cause the contact patch to move to the outer edge of the tire, which will give you less contact patch and bad tire wear. You want to increase the camber until the point where when you turn, and the car rolls, it actually goes from an inner contact patch to using the entire tire (max grip).
The front of the 818 is a bit limited for camber unless you cut the upper arms. At -1 you might be maxed out without modifying them. To start, I would recommend increasing your rear camber to somewhere in the range of -2 to -2.5 if you are on street tires.
Note: I just noticed you are running the OEM rear lateral links. These might limit your camber adjustment (we have the FFR adjustable ones). You'll have to play with that upper bar to see what you can get.
These damn pins for the front turn signals caused me days of frustration, I was sent too many of the wrong ones, thankfully I was able to pull enough pins from the remainder of the wire harness
I used some of the scrap to reinforce the hood, I drilled holes and used epoxy to bond them to the hood to make it less flimsy when open. 20150915_150743.jpg20150914_135540.jpg
A few questions:
1) Is the splitter permanently attached or is it removeable?
2) Are you autocrossing in XP? The 818 was classed to E-Mod in the SCCA rulebook I thought
3) Are you worried about the imbalanced aero (no rear aero) causing oversteer issues? I guess you'll find out soon enough! Let us know how it goes
Good luck today!
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15 First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm! First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
A few questions:
1) Is the splitter permanently attached or is it removeable?
2) Are you autocrossing in XP? The 818 was classed to E-Mod in the SCCA rulebook I thought
3) Are you worried about the imbalanced aero (no rear aero) causing oversteer issues? I guess you'll find out soon enough! Let us know how it goes
Good luck today!
Thanks,
1,throughout the entire build I have made nearly everything removable with riv-nuts, all of the body panels including the splitter.
2, I didn't really know (care) what class I was in. I was told by my local club, XP has a better pax. at this point I'm still getting blown away by a ffr cobra and a daytona coupe on hoosiers at some events.
3, so far I have found it under-steers quite a bit at speed, but then again, this is the first time out with the body on and alignment done with tape measures. and the brakes don't work good enough for me to want to go much faster until i figure how to get more power to the brakes. I have the bias all the way to the rear and they barely seem to help slow before the fronts lock up.
After hibernation I have started working on the 818 again with the addition of an air-water Intercoller AWIC. with the parts being being supplied by Craig at ZeroDecibel Motorsports.
Removing the front clip to install the heat exchanger and pump 20160309_182211.jpg
I did not like the angle the IC was going to be at using a straight coupler to the throttle body, I was concerned with engine cover clearance and it also was touching the bleeder on the clutch slave. I got a 45 reducing elbow and trimmed some to get the IC to sit flat, It clears everything. 20160312_172517.jpg20160322_124726.jpg 20160322_124738.jpg20160322_135425.jpg 20160322_135436.jpg
I fount the perfect coolant hose at Advance auto. I only needed to cut it in the center and trim the ends for a nearly perfect route back to the stock dump location. (I did not feel like removing the intake manifold to try and connect it directly to the inlet tube) 20160406_190632.jpg
Congrats on the first legal drive and getting to this point! Looks like we have the exact same wheel and tire combination - color and all. Of course, I am biased, but I think it looks great
did they register it as a street rod? my local advanced inspection station said i didn't need seat belts or wiper to pass that it would be a hot rod. and they weren't required, they inspect a not of t-buckets with no safety gear and it would fall in with them.
did they register it as a street rod? my local advanced inspection station said i didn't need seat belts or wiper to pass that it would be a hot rod. and they weren't required, they inspect a not of t-buckets with no safety gear and it would fall in with them.
What wiper arm did you use? Doesn't look like either of the ones I got with my donor car. I am looking for the thinnest arm I can find ?
Dave
It is the longer of the two that came with the wiper kit that I bought from factory five. But I did not use the wiper kit I cut down and modified the Subaru wiper motor assembly
I have been wrestling with this decision for over a year but I have decided to take serious inquiries about letting her go. I need to make room for new projects.
For sale. #248 received kit October 2014. PA titled and registered June 2017.
I know I'll never get what I put into it but is someone else's time to enjoy it.
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Originally Posted by Tamra
