Steering rack bracket

[Hindsight]

I've seen a number of people complain about it in their build threads and some folks come up with some solutions, the latest of which I saw a guy put some washers to space the bracket down away from the rack. But that trick won't work for me.... take a look:





That lower nut is hardly engaged on the bolt and if I tighten in down anymore, it will start to crush the rack. I've tried playing with the balance of the two bolts but nothing works well.

This would be a great part for someone to make a custom bracket for. I wonder why no one hasn't already? I think I read someone said it's because it varies so much from car to car, but I don't really understand that.... what varies? The racks are going to be the same as are the brackets FFR provides. The U-shaped bracket that you re-use from the donor car is always going to be the same. It really seems this is a part someone could offer and it would be ideal to make the saddle wider than 1/8"! If no one is in the process of doing this, I may try to work up a prototype on my brother in law's 3D printer and if it works, see what it would cost to have a small production run so I can offer it here.

I'd rather someone tell me they are in the process of making something really nice so I could just pay them handsomely for it lol.

[Mechie3]

I made one way before zero decibel existed. I could always have it quoted.

[Hindsight]

Hey Mechie, I just dug through your thread and found what you did. That looks exactly like what I need.

When you made yours, did you by chance take a measurement from the rack (not the rack housing but the rack itself) to the frame on each end of the rack to ensure the spacing is just right? If so, I'm definitely interested in a quote to have one made, thank you!

Also, in searching your thread I just realized I made the same mistake you did on the rear hubs: installing the hub into the spindle before putting the backing plates on. DOH! I tell you, I've made more mistakes on these front-rear spindles.... forgetting to put seals in before pressing hubs in, or forgetting to put spring clips in before putting seals in.

[Mechie3]

I think I measured floor to frame to make sure it was level and then measured rack to floor. I do recall my first attempt was off by a little and I had to shave off the bottom slightly.

[longislandwrx]

I took the grinder to mine. It now sits above the frame and is a lot sturdier. It took some time though.

[Hindsight]

For machinists out there.... how does one typically machine a U-shaped saddle in a block of material with a manual mill or even a drill press?

With a DP, you could bore out a hole in a piece of stock larger than you need, then cut it in half to create the U-shape saddle, but it would require you to have a bit of the exact diameter saddle you want and that's not very practical.

[RM1SepEx]

All three brackets that I got didn't fit from FFR, i made the arc fit with my trusty air die grinder with a carbide bit, work slow and test fit often, only takes 5 minutes

[Hindsight]

I actually just bought a die grinder and carbide bit (and a compressor that could actually run it) this weekend, but I have two issues with the FFR bracket:
1. It doesn't fit
2. The surface in which it contacts the steering rack is only 1/8" wide. It's going to start cutting into the rack housing.

I really like Mechie's solution. Nice thick bracket that bolts on from the top.

[Mechie3]

I actually made that piece on a manual mill. I cut the rectangle shape, indicated the edge and moved to the centerline of the arc and used a jig boring head. Because I couldn't measure the radius I was cutting I measured the distance from the square edge to the bottom of the arc. When that dimension was good I knew my arc was good ± some tolerance.