Ninjanick's 818S Build Thread

[ninjanick]

I've been reading about the Upper Control arm and how one of the studs needs to be cut down, but the criteria to determine if this is needed conflicts with what I have in my kit. From what I read, if the hex struts are not equal that means you have to cut one of the studs. I also read that if the ball joint is flat (not angled) than you don't have to cut. I have different length hex struts and I have a ball joint which is flat. Do I need to cut?

I also realize that I fit it up on the wrong side. Supposed to be long hex strut towards the front with the shorter one in the rear correct?




Also install with grease fittings up or down?

[Pearldrummer7]

I've been reading about the Upper Control arm and how one of the studs needs to be cut down, but the criteria to determine if this is needed conflicts with what I have in my kit. From what I read, if the hex struts are not equal that means you have to cut one of the studs. I also read that if the ball joint is flat (not angled) than you don't have to cut. I have different length hex struts and I have a ball joint which is flat. Do I need to cut?

I also realize that I fit it up on the wrong side. Supposed to be long hex strut towards the front with the shorter one in the rear correct?




Also install with grease fittings up or down?

I installed with grease fittings up, for access reasons. I don't think it technically matters either way.

[Mechie3]

Cutting was only for the angled versions. As we flipped left to right we also had to flip the arm front/back so that the angle was in the right direction. This meant that the long/short arms were swapped and there wasn't enough adjustment to fix it without cutting. You should not have to cut.

[ninjanick]

I'm able to get one side of the front upper ball joint all the way flush, but not the other ...


Anyone have any tricks to get this to sit flush? I was using a huge crescent wrench in combination with a vise. I must have tried to turn that last one down for an hour and it would not budge. Maybe I lost strength turning to first one? I tried applying a little heat, but it just seems like it won't go any further.

[ninjanick]

On the subject of the front suspension, I don't have many of the donor hardware as mine came on a pallet. An M14 screw fits well here, but the holes don't align with the lower control arm bushing mount.



I can wiggle in an M12, but seems a little odd that the mount holes don't line up with the snowman holes. If I widen the busing mount hole open to allow an M14 would that be the work around? I figure opening the hole for an M14 or wiggling in an M12 should be about the same as there will be a gap one way or another.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Ninjanick,
I just changed my upper ball joints.
This time I bought the correct tool. It made it much easier.
Bob

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-124-10001

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-124-10001

[Bob_n_Cincy]

On the subject of the front suspension, I don't have many of the donor hardware as mine came on a pallet. An M14 screw fits well here, but the holes don't align with the lower control arm bushing mount.

I can wiggle in an M12, but seems a little odd that the mount holes don't line up with the snowman holes. If I widen the busing mount hole open to allow an M14 would that be the work around? I figure opening the hole for an M14 or wiggling in an M12 should be about the same as there will be a gap one way or another.

Ninjanick,
The squggle in the bushing goes down. Loosen the big nut and flip it over.
bushing2.jpg

I know a lot of the early kits had to enlarge hole to fit the M14.
I think they have fixed that issue.
Bob

[ninjanick]

Thanks for the tips Bob!!! A socket would would hopefully work with the impact, but that ball joint is a tight fit!! I will reverse the bushing mount as well. I didn't even realize there was an orientation to that bushing.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks for the tips Bob!!! A socket would would hopefully work with the impact, but that ball joint is a tight fit!! I will reverse the bushing mount as well. I didn't even realize there was an orientation to that bushing.

My cheap impact wouldn't do it. My 36" breaker bar did the trick.

[ninjanick]

Tried to get the motor and transmission together to setup the rear suspension installation, however I ran into a little problem. Got the fork in fine ...



At the advice of other members and Subaru enthusiasts I added a Monoloc, but the Release Bearing doesn't quite seem to fit. I ordered a replacement for a 2006 WRX 5MT. I verified the part I ordered and it is correct.





Looking through a 2006 WRX manual under Section 5 (Transmission) sub section 07 (Clutch System) page CL4, my transmission doesn't quite look like that. In particular I don't have the Lever Springs and my pivot is different.



Looking another page down (CL5), I see something very similar, but it's listed as "STI Model". Now I can't tell the difference between the 2 transmissions just by looking, but when I purchased the parts from Wayne, he did say this was an 06 WRX. In any case, can someone confirm that I should purchase a Release Bearing for an 06 STI?

[JeromeS13]

The throwout bearing is backwards. The tabs face the rear and the pivot arm slides into those tabs...

[ninjanick]

Thanks JeromeS13! Any particular reason my trans setup looks a lot like the manuals STi configuration?

[JeromeS13]

Thanks JeromeS13! Any particular reason my trans setup looks a lot like the manuals STi configuration?

There are several versions of the 5 speed. Some have "push" style clutches, others have "pull" style. Your transmission appears to be a "pull" style. So if you bought a clutch/throwout bearing for a 2006 WRX (push style), it's probably not going to lock onto the pressure plate. Your transmission appears to be from an 02-05 WRX.

[ninjanick]

Thinking that I have the wrong Release Bearing, I went to OpposedForces.com and there's only one option for release bearing. When I go to fastwrx.com, the bearing I have looks very similar to the 02-05 WRX Throwout Bearing.

http://www.fastwrx.com/collections/o...rowout-bearing

It seems the 05-16 STI version will actually fit inside the Monoloc.

http://www.fastwrx.com/collections/o...s/2004-wrx-sti

[ninjanick]

So after more research and reading up on the varying different 5MT configurations. I believe I've nailed down the correct part to Exedy PN BGR601? Sound about right?

[Mechie3]

Thats definitely a pull style trans like Jerome said with a.push style bearing.

[ninjanick]

Having a real hard time mating the motor to the trans. Every time I put them together something interferes. After some careful grease markings, I have determined that the Pressure Plate is hitting the fork. I measured the distance from the adapter plate to the farthest point on the Pressure Plate and I get ~2.3". Anyone have any measurements on their engine? I'm thinking the adapter plate needs to be thicker to gain some distance. Michael over at EVWest states the plate was measured off a 2.5L. Any possible differences which could cause interference?





I made sure the Flywheel is as close to the adapter plate as possible. I'm measuring around 0.050" using a long skinny screw driver as a gauge. Hard to see from the picture, but the flywheel has a protrusion on the backside. Screwdriver is wedged between the plate and the flywheel protrusion.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nick
Here is a picture that shows how deep the flywheel teeth sit in the block.
DSC00213.jpg
Are you using a Clutch alignment tool.
It is very difficult to get the disk aligned without one.
If the clutch is even off 1/32", The trans shaft wont drop into the pilot bearing.
Leaving you with about 1/2" to go

You gave us the 2.3" measurement of the clutch. How deep is the throw out bearing in the transmission?

Try putting it together without the clutch arm and throw out bearing installed. That will tell you what the problem is.
Bob

[ninjanick]

Flywheel protrudes from the face of the adapter plate ~0.2"



Base of Throw Out Bearing to face of bell housing is ~2.6"



Highest part of fork to face of bell housing is ~2.15"



I used a plastic alignment tool when I installed the clutch disc. When I get the 2 parts close together, I can manually spin the flywheel and feel it hit the fork.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

So, Are you saying the problem is the pivot arm casting is hitting the clutch housing?

[ninjanick]

Yes. Sorry I called it a fork, but yes the pivot arm casting is hitting the Pressure Plate. I verified the Pressure Plate is fully seated to the flywheel just now ... frustrating to say the least!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Jack
Here are a couple of pictured where the pressure plate housing look different thickness.

All three of my engines are push style clutches. So I can't rake a measurement for you.
Bob

clutch sti.jpg clutch thick.jpg

[ninjanick]

So you think I just need a lower profile pressure plate? What clutch is that?

[ninjanick]

Couldn't really work on the rears too much, but got the fronts installed this weekend.

[ninjanick]

Tried to step into the pedal box installation, however the pedal box doesn't seem to fit quite right with the frame. Pushing the pedal box as far forward as possible I still can't get the holes to align with the frame.



Hard to see from this picture (too dark), but the pedal box plate doesn't sit flush with the frame. There's about 1/8" maybe a little more gap at the top. I ground down an edge that was interfering and I could get a little closer, but the box shape doesn't seem to conform well with the provided space in the frame. Should there be spacers here?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

So you think I just need a lower profile pressure plate? What clutch is that?

Nick
The picture below shows a critical distance.
The mounting surface for the flywheel should be 0.99" deep in the adapter.
See picture below.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nick
Take a look at this post.
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...l=1#post213159

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nick,
Attached is a picture of Eric's batteries. I think there is more room behind the original firewall for batteries, if the driver doesn't need the leg room.
Bob

[ninjanick]

My proposed configuration should be similar to Erik's, but stuffing in close to 100 cells is somewhat of a challenge. Anyone have any thoughts on my pedal box fitment issue?

[ninjanick]

So I wasn't too fond of taping or gluing the turn signal cancel piece to enable that functionality with the NRG hub I purchased.


So I designed a simple part that can be 3D printed. BTW, anyone know what the 3 relief cuts in the hub are for?


The fit is tight and it definitely feels like it won't come loose. I had to knock it in with a mallet to seat it on the NRG hub. Not too bad of a fit, but I did have to space it out a little to get the right depth to disengage the turn signal. This photo is with the adapter all the way down. I actually need another 0.175" length which I've updated the design to accommodate for in case I need to print another one.


You can see the gap in this picture ... along with some tool marks to prop it up. It is a tight fit after all. The interference fit alone is very tight so I feel it doesn't need anything more. Any suggestions?

[Hindsight]

Looks great! What kind of 3D printer did you use? My brother in law has the Dremel (I think that's what it is) and while it's ok for prototyping, I wouldn't use it for actual final pieces as the quality just isn't there. That piece you made looks really nice.

[Canadian818]

Just catching up on your thread. Is it possible that you have the wrong clutch? If you bought it thinking it was for 06 it might not work. Just a thought.

[Pearldrummer7]

Wow, that signal cancel spacer you printed is really nice. I love 3D printers for little things like this.

[wleehendrick]

So I wasn't too fond of taping or gluing the turn signal cancel piece to enable that functionality with the NRG hub I purchased.

So I designed a simple part that can be 3D printed.

Very nice... I have the same hub and would like to do the same. Would you mind sharing a STEP or IGES file I can grow?

[ninjanick]

Looks great! What kind of 3D printer did you use? My brother in law has the Dremel (I think that's what it is) and while it's ok for prototyping, I wouldn't use it for actual final pieces as the quality just isn't there. That piece you made looks really nice.

I used a Dimension printer mainly because I had access to one for this quick print. I do have a Taz at home that produces less quality prints, but it was used and it prints other things with reasonable accuracy and tolerance.

[ninjanick]

Very nice... I have the same hub and would like to do the same. Would you mind sharing a STEP or IGES file I can grow?

Not sure where to host it, but maybe I can throw it up on Thingiverse?

[ninjanick]

I published the adapter on Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1185548

[wleehendrick]

I published the adapter on Thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1185548

Awesome... Thanks!

[ninjanick]

Finally got the motor and transmission together


Took some wiggling and wrestling, but finally got it in place


Looking good on clearances to proposed battery location

[Speedy G]

Looking awesome. What color is the car going to be?