Ninjanick's 818S Build Thread

[ninjanick]

Both seats should fit ok with the battery boxes. I most likely will not be able to use the stock firewall aluminum panels without some minor modifications.

[ninjanick]

Wiring definitely underway, but taking a little more time than expected. Not too bad and maybe I'm overly cautious wiring each sub-system at a time. In either case, everything to the fuse box is pretty much wired. Just need to route it to the end devices. There is still a lot of work on the controller and BMS side, but I wanted to get it roughly in place to start battery/ballast placement.


Wired up the horn using a spring I had laying around. Works decently ...


Tried to make the motor jumper out of 2/0 and some connectors that are 2/0, but couldn't manage to get all the copper in the connector. Going to try a size up (connector), but if anyone has any tips or tricks. It looks like it will just barely fit, but when I tried to insert the cable ... there are some strands that didn't make it.

[ninjanick]

Got the BMS and charger mounted



Mount for the charger isn't aesthetically pleasing, but will probably change that out for something else later. For now this will do.



View from the top ish



Pretty decent clearance all the way around

[ninjanick]

About 1" clearance to the battery lid. The gusset weld was a repair job since I burned through that section ...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Tried to make the motor jumper out of 2/0 and some connectors that are 2/0, but couldn't manage to get all the copper in the connector. Going to try a size up (connector), but if anyone has any tips or tricks. It looks like it will just barely fit, but when I tried to insert the cable ... there are some strands that didn't make it.

Nick
TnB makes some connectors that have a bell flare on the end.
bell.jpg

What BMS system are you using?
I've designed 3 systems during my career.
Bob

[ninjanick]

I'm using an Orion BMS. Thanks for the tip on the TnB connector ... that looks like it would do the trick!

[ninjanick]

Started looking at the rear and noticed that the transmission seems to be off axis slightly ... could be my motor mount. CVs should account for minor off axis?

[ninjanick]

Wanted to position the battery boxes to weld the final hardware. The front battery box barely doesn't fit so I'll have to come up with a way to mount them with a full box.



Ride height was set to right around 5". With me in it I'm a little biased towards the drivers side, but the rear bias looks ok at 56.80%. I didn't have any of the body work, glass, or radiator subframe so I should be close to 55% rear bias at the end. Any tips on weight bias? I was going for slight bias to the rear. I can place 4 more batteries in the rear if I want to get closer to 60%.

[ninjanick]

I'm not sure why, but with just me in the car the difference in total is 144lbs. which I am not (closer to 175lbs). Also I'm not sure about the BITE figure. Scale readings without me in the car.

[Frank818]

Started looking at the rear and noticed that the transmission seems to be off axis slightly ... could be my motor mount. CVs should account for minor off axis?

Absolutely no problem, they can take more than that, I've proven it, although I have Porsche inners but it's the same thing, CVs can take more angle than that.

[turbomacncheese]

Tried to make the motor jumper out of 2/0 and some connectors that are 2/0, but couldn't manage to get all the copper in the connector. Going to try a size up (connector), but if anyone has any tips or tricks. It looks like it will just barely fit, but when I tried to insert the cable ... there are some strands that didn't make it.

I've been known to twist the wires around really tight, then heat it up and melt in some solder. Keeps the wires from smooshing all over, and you can heat it back up before you crimp if you want to smash it all really tight.

[ninjanick]

Last weekend started on the front box which will hold 22 cells. Frame made out of Aluminum T stock.


All cells populated ... slightly offset to the passenger side.


And front view.

[UnhipPopano]

"I'm not sure why, but with just me in the car the difference in total is 144lbs. which I am not (closer to 175lbs). Also I'm not sure about the BITE figure. Scale readings without me in the car."

No Measurement Instrument is without some inaccuracies, such as sensor accuracy, drift, voltage effect, EMI and RFI. The reading you are getting is probably within 1%, so you should be very happy.

[ninjanick]

2/0 cable is heavy! In between the holidays, family and work I managed to get a little done. Routed the center 2/0 cable plus added some rivnuts for the low voltage wiring.


Would have liked a little more separation ... maybe I'll add another P Clamp on the frame to separate them more?

[ninjanick]

After a little internal debate, I decided to fabricate my own electronic e-brake. Electrically it is not hard, but the mount take some time. I decided to mount the actuator in the rear since the center console area was getting a little crowded with wiring and shifter cables. Adjacent to the transmission seemed like a good fit plus the cables were long enough. I'll have to trim a little, but it shouldn't be that difficult to make it work.


Actuator has limit switches so I can "fine tune" the pull. The motor is supposed to be capable of 250lbf. and only draws 1A (measured). Once the limit switch is activated, current drops to ~30mA (what I remember ... will need to re-measure to ensure I don't drain my low voltage battery). Bias the motor one way activates the motor, reverse and the motor travels back the other way.

[ninjanick]

Spent some time today and got the shifter temp installed



And clamped the plumbing in place. I had to redo a few lines ...



Wasn't sure how best to secure these lines, but this seemed to do the trick



Everything is still a little loose ... hoping it will tighten up against the frame a little.

[ninjanick]

For those of you knowledgeable about EVs ... I have a contactor in front of my controller which is controlled by the Zilla. I was thinking of adding more contactors as an emergency cut off to "disengage" the traction pack. I was thinking of adding 2 on both the high and low side. Overkill? Just add one?

[Frank818]

You are able to fit the alu tunnel without cutting it? Mine is cut in all directions, including sliced into LEFT and RIGHT sides. I had to cut almost every edge of it and a long slice in the middle. Easier to install and remove.

[ninjanick]

I cut the aluminum tunnel on top to fit the shifter pattern. I will have to trim it a little to sit flush.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

For those of you knowledgeable about EVs ... I have a contactor in front of my controller which is controlled by the Zilla. I was thinking of adding more contactors as an emergency cut off to "disengage" the traction pack. I was thinking of adding 2 on both the high and low side. Overkill? Just add one?

Nick,
You cannot have overkill when it comes to safety.
Look at what the OEMs are doing as far as interlocks fusing, connectors and contactors.
Below is a link to a document that talks about distributed batteries like you have. The document is 6 years old but still applicable.

http://www2.warwick.ac.uk/fac/sci/wm...view_may11.pdf

Bob

[ninjanick]

Finally got the axles mated to the transmission. I seem to recall someone stating the tapered roller bearing should/can be removed. Does it need to be removed? If so, is there a best way to remove it? I was also looking at the cover plate and noticed that the bolts are too long (by about 0.5"). The tail shaft housing is thicker than the cover plate. Are these supposed to be cut down? Instructions say to install using the provided hardware, but what hardware? I looked through the bag of hardware and didn't find any identified as such. Are they black oxide SHCS like in the picture?

[ninjanick]

Didn't find the hardware in any of the packages, but found an M10x1.25 pitch screw works

[ninjanick]

Tried to get the shift cables on (K Tuned Shifter) and I think I need to bend one of the brackets down. In it's natural state, the angle of the cables is higher than the transmission mount.


If I push down as far as it will go, it's just shy of the bracket thru holes. Angle seems to be extreme. Bend the bracket?

[ninjanick]

Decided to fit up the rear strut bar and the holes don't align. This is with the driver side installed with both bolts.



As you can see, I'm off by about half a diameter and the bottom bolt is in but it's tight.



Awhile back I read some others having a similar problem and that the engine weight will pull in the sides. My engine is probably heavier and it looks like I'm still off. In addition, the fork arm hits the strut bar because my motor is mounted high. I know there is supposed to be a spring on the end ... would be the end of the world if I cut the top of the fork off and not install the spring?

[UnhipPopano]

Regarding the Shift Cable and the question about "Bend The Bracket" the answer is yes. If you do some research on recommendations about the maximum angle, the answer is 15 degrees but the straighter the better.

[ninjanick]

Regarding the Shift Cable and the question about "Bend The Bracket" the answer is yes. If you do some research on recommendations about the maximum angle, the answer is 15 degrees but the straighter the better.

Thanks! I ended up bending it slightly to make it as straight as possible.

[Harley818]

I waited till the end to put my crossbar in and I guess I was lucky..... fit no problem.
Just slid the bolts through the bar, the spacers and the frame.

[wicked93gs]

Just drill another hole in the fork and mount the spring lower after shaving down the top to fit, worst case scenario that was is you have to play around with the spring rate(heavier) by adding a helper spring. To answer your question though, the hydraulic pressure on the slave will keep the fork always extended unless you press the clutch...at which point the mechanical pressure from the pressure plate pushes it back the other way, so even without a spring it should work fine. I am a little rusty on my electric cars...but when using a manual transmission, arent you supposed to not need a clutch for some reason? I've never built one, but I seem to remember reading that somewhere, that all you need is some type of coupler.

[ninjanick]

The WARP11 motor I have can spin up to 9000rpm, but power drops off right after 5500rpm. In my case, the transmission is needed to achieve higher speeds. I'll likely keep it in 3rd or 4th for the most part as I primarily only drive in the city.

[wicked93gs]

I understand the use of the transmission...those extra gears are very handy. Its just the use of the actual flywheel and clutch that I thought was optional because unlike a gasoline engine, when you go to shift the RPM doesn't fall off the same way. This thread references it...
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ad.php?t=14163

To be sure, driving even a ICE engine a clutch is not needed. I sometimes practice clutchless driving on several of my mtx cars. I think the rally racer Colin Mcrae races entire rally races without using the clutch pedal, or so I have heard. Its a matter of matching engine and trans speed, a feat that is far easier with an electric motor vs an ICE engine because the inertia is so much lower. Me, I would probably keep the clutch, just because, but many electric car builders ditch it entirely because doing so drops weight(more battery capacity) and loss of energy from rotating mass(IE more range from the battery pack). I am sure with practice shifts could be just as quick as with a clutch.

[longislandwrx]

33670265795_a0edb32d7a_c.jpg

I know this was an old post but what are you pushing it down for, doesn't it go into this hole?

[TouchStone]

Decided to fit up the rear strut bar and the holes don't align. This is with the driver side installed with both bolts.

As you can see, I'm off by about half a diameter and the bottom bolt is in but it's tight.

Mine looked like this too. I use a ratchet strap to pull the frame inward a bit each time I need to put it on or take it off. Easy to do and I like that the frame has a bit of pre-load (not sure if it actually helps).

[EODTech87]

Mine looked like this too. I use a ratchet strap to pull the frame inward a bit each time I need to put it on or take it off. Easy to do and I like that the frame has a bit of pre-load (not sure if it actually helps).

Ditto. Except I also have to use a deadblow hammer.