R.Spec's Gt35r Ej25 Supercar Killer

[R.Spec]

little update. Now i am working on fuel fittings and lines currently. Riveting some more interior aluminum in. Then firewall and wiring!

[Hindsight]

Looking good. Will the cross brace (which you don't have bolted in yet) fit with that rotated turbo? Are you using a pre-made rotated up-pipe or did you fab that one? I've been trying to figure out if a rotated turbo will fit back there without any cross brace modification if I build my own up-pipe.

[R.Spec]

Looking good. Will the cross brace (which you don't have bolted in yet) fit with that rotated turbo? Are you using a pre-made rotated up-pipe or did you fab that one? I've been trying to figure out if a rotated turbo will fit back there without any cross brace modification if I build my own up-pipe.

it's a pre fabbed one and as of now no it does not work. We will be cutting and modifying the up pipe to make it fit. Along with that I believe I will be building a RMIC similar to the six star car.

[Hindsight]

Cool cool! You can also consider modifying the cross brace instead... that is, if it's even possible with the turbo location. I think a couple people with a larger stock-location turbo even had to modify the cross brace a bit. Which turbo is that on there? I've been considering a GTX3071R. I know the 3076 is very popular but I think the boost would come on a little too violently for the 818 and a bit much lag for my taste.

[R.Spec]

Cool cool! You can also consider modifying the cross brace instead... that is, if it's even possible with the turbo location. I think a couple people with a larger stock-location turbo even had to modify the cross brace a bit. Which turbo is that on there? I've been considering a GTX3071R. I know the 3076 is very popular but I think the boost would come on a little too violently for the 818 and a bit much lag for my taste.

Hence why I went with a gt35r with a tial .63. Great top end power with quick spool and shouldn't create too much torque with that small hotside. Plus I am crazy

[Aero STI]

I fit my internally gated twinscroll EFR7163 beneath the cross brace. I fabricated a custom uppipe, but that was not that big of a headache. A single scroll turbo would be a piece of cake to make fit below the cross brace.

[Tamra]

Aerosti, how much clearance do you have between the turbo/cross brace?

Rspec, your car is looking great, and that is a huge turbo. I want a video of you attempting to put the power down once you're all done

[Aero STI]

Aerosti, how much clearance do you have between the turbo/cross brace?

Rspec, your car is looking great, and that is a huge turbo. I want a video of you attempting to put the power down once you're all done

Maybe 1". It's close, but nothing alarming. I have a really nice turbo blanket to seal in the hotside heat.

[Hindsight]

I fit my internally gated twinscroll EFR7163 beneath the cross brace. I fabricated a custom uppipe, but that was not that big of a headache. A single scroll turbo would be a piece of cake to make fit below the cross brace.

Nice! I wouldn't have thought to orient the turbo that direction.... with the inlet hose routing under the intake manifold. Does rotating it the other way cause exhaust clearance issues?

[Aero STI]

Nice! I wouldn't have thought to orient the turbo that direction.... with the inlet hose routing under the intake manifold. Does rotating it the other way cause exhaust clearance issues?

I mocked the turbo in many different orientations. It works with the turbo pointed in the more standard rotated configuration that you describe and is seen Subaru engine bays. As can be seen with my configuration and what Andrew/Tamra came up with, there is a ton of flexibility with the 818 if you're fabricating the exhaust parts yourself. If memory serves, this orientation allowed for the shortest uppipe tube length.

[Frank818]

Hence why I went with a gt35r with a tial .63. Great top end power with quick spool and shouldn't create too much torque with that small hotside. Plus I am crazy

That's what I have, a GT3582R with .63 A/R and 35mm Tial WG. Spools very quickly on a 2.8L, if I recall, according to my ECU logs, it's something like 0.5 to 0.8second.

[R.Spec]

When would be a good time to put my firewall on?

[R.Spec]

I guess I will update this turd.....

I GOT IT RUNNING! Vroom Vroom. Quickly ran the wiring, alligator clipped some grounds, bought a new battery. Extended starter wire etc. etc. Flashed my own custom tune on it and it fired up first go. We had one oil leak from the drivers banjo bolt. Forgot to tighten it when I put the motor together. Some fuel leaks from an incompatible Y fitting, the AN threads were too short and bottoming out. Then a small water leak from a hose clamp not tight enough. Burping the water was kind of a *****, but the vacuum filler we have at the shop did a great job, and once we jacked the front of the car higher than the rest it drank all the water up and was perfect. Idiot me didn't install the fuel pump assembly right and left the oem Venturi return piece on and then put the gas cap on, it shot fuel everywhere ahahaha. Then I trimmed it and made a proper vent.

Now here are some videos.

[R.Spec]

And some ANTI LAG! just mild stuff

[mikeb75]

nice; sounds like it's running well on the startup video!

[matteo92065]

I bet you are dying to drive it now.

[shinn497]

edit it does nvm

awesome!

[Frank818]

We can tell from the video you are really happy! That's how it should be.

[R.Spec]

I bet you are dying to drive it now.

Been driving it for the last couple days. First drive was 9/7/2015.

Got the brakes dialed in, bled them and it wasn't too bad. stops pretty good, need to bed in the pads and rotors for the front. Still not hard to lock up the fronts though. Also got my fuel level sensor working. Riveting on my rear firewall today. Been cleaning up wiring every single day. Almost to a point where I am happy. Axles weren't too bad to build. Also with no boost and a rev limit at 4500rpm, this thing gets sideways easy. I was cutting some cookies the other day and having so much fun! can't wait to kill myself with boost. Might want to invest in new tires quickly. Also think I am gonna replace the master and slave cylinder for the clutch cause it just isn't bleeding right and feeling proper.

[Rasmus]

Just Say No to Vertical Video.
- Nancy Reagan

Nice work getting the first test drive.

[R.Spec]

Just Say No to Vertical Video.
- Nancy Reagan

Nice work getting the first test drive.

i know i know. my buddy filmed it.

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first drive and start!

[R.Spec]

Cries inside. Looks like surge tank is in the works. Noticed the baffling sucks really bad in the FFR tank. Going right around a corner at less than half tank causes starvation of the pump.

[Rasmus]

I think you have the new tank. So I don't know about the baffling. But you might want to look into these:


http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...l/pickups.html

The Offroad 4x4 guys have been using them for years to prevent fuel starvation. They use 4 of them. One for each corner of the tank and splice 'em all together with stainless steel fuel pipe/brake line inside the tank with small splices of hose that can take being immersed in fuel all the time. Inexpensive too, at about $30 per. And you don't have to run a second fuel pump or buy an expensive surge tank with all the fittings. It's the fitting that really get ya.

I'm sure we could get away with just using two. One for the right of the tank. One for the left.

[Frank818]

Does the new FFR tank use less baffles than the old 33 hotrod one?

[R.Spec]

Does the new FFR tank use less baffles than the old 33 hotrod one?

inside baffling.jpg
Here is the baffling.

[Frank818]

I see. Where lies the fuel pump? Left or right side in the pic? If it's right side, ugh...

[R.Spec]

I see. Where lies the fuel pump? Left or right side in the pic? If it's right side, ugh...

the lower left side. I filled the tank all the way. Btw how many gallons does it hold. it appears 12 or 13 gallons. But with it full there are no starvation issues. so that is good! ahaha

[Frank818]

13 US gallons.
Unless they changed it for the new tank.

[R.Spec]

Cutting the rear tailight and turn signal holes. The manual doesn't specify how to cut the rear taillight holes, did you guys just use a massive hole saw or what?

[matteo92065]

I used massive hole saw.

[Pearldrummer7]

Cutting the rear tailight and turn signal holes. The manual doesn't specify how to cut the rear taillight holes, did you guys just use a massive hole saw or what?

Yup- 4"

Cries inside. Looks like surge tank is in the works. Noticed the baffling sucks really bad in the FFR tank. Going right around a corner at less than half tank causes starvation of the pump.

I ran into that issue on the track both times I've had it out. I ordered one of these guys and will post updates on how it goes.

[Scargo]

Dremel has an attachment for cutting a perfect radius (withing a certain range). It might be worth looking at if you or a friend have it. I did a lot of decent radiuses with my Ingersoll-Rand reciprocating air saw and then smoothed them up with this sanding drum, which is an amazing tool for composites.

[R.Spec]

So I got the rear body panel drilled with all the lights in. Got the headlight bukets in the front bumper. Started to mount up the side panel on the drivers side, but I have a couple things holding me up. Don't have the floor pan permanently in place because I don't have my passenger seat welded in yet. But I don't have that seat welded in because I am battling the new gas tank design and that angled bar right in front of the seat section. The seat has to sit far enough forward because of the gas tank that now it hits the right side of that angled bar. So I will have to raise the passenger seat up about 2in it appears. I bought 1 1/4" square tubing and that wasnt even enough to raise the seat. So now I am on the search for some 2" square tubing to weld the passenger seat in.





Also trying to decide on intercooler type. I designed a horizontal flow intercooler for the rear with a backdoor entry. But Extreme Turbo Systems (my sponsor) decided that it would not flow enough with the dimensions of only 20"x8"x4". My power goal of 500+whp will give it excess back pressure and won't be efficient. My choice at this point is to somehow squeeze a 20"x11"x4" core in the back of the car, or to go to AWIC. Is that kit by VCP really everything I would need and it's only $500? That seems like a pretty good route. Reviews on them?

[Hindsight]

I have the new FFR gas tank too and it doesn't take away any more room from the passenger seat than the old one. Or are you talking about a different tank?

That price you mentioned for the VCP intercooler kit doesn't look right: http://www.verycoolparts.com/awic.htm

I know a number of forum members bought it and like it. C.Plavan and MetalMaker are two that come to mind. They have details in their build threads. I think everyone who has them is happy with them.

The rear-mount A2A intercooler has been discussed a lot and the issue is that you aren't going to get a lot of flow through it. You can mount it in the very back between the tail lights as one or two others have but then you're pulling hot air from the engine compartment through it which would be counter productive. No one who has done this has posted intake temps yet. You can't put it on top of the engine and have venting for it there because that is a low pressure zone due to the windshield. About the only option is to figure out a way to have it behind the side scoops with a really good duct sealing it off to the side scoop. A couple people are working on this but no one has it on the road yet.

You can make your own A2W intercooler setup as well (I'm doing that as well as a few others here like Mechie and Tamra/Andrew), but unless you are really good at engineering something on paper and having it work 100% right on the car, you may end up spending more than Wayne's kit due to buying stuff you don't end up using (IE re-evolving your design as you assemble it on the car), and then there is the time factor too.

[R.Spec]

I have the new FFR gas tank too and it doesn't take away any more room from the passenger seat than the old one. Or are you talking about a different tank?

That price you mentioned for the VCP intercooler kit doesn't look right: http://www.verycoolparts.com/awic.htm

I know a number of forum members bought it and like it. C.Plavan and MetalMaker are two that come to mind. They have details in their build threads. I think everyone who has them is happy with them.

The rear-mount A2A intercooler has been discussed a lot and the issue is that you aren't going to get a lot of flow through it. You can mount it in the very back between the tail lights as one or two others have but then you're pulling hot air from the engine compartment through it which would be counter productive. No one who has done this has posted intake temps yet. You can't put it on top of the engine and have venting for it there because that is a low pressure zone due to the windshield. About the only option is to figure out a way to have it behind the side scoops with a really good duct sealing it off to the side scoop. A couple people are working on this but no one has it on the road yet.

You can make your own A2W intercooler setup as well (I'm doing that as well as a few others here like Mechie and Tamra/Andrew), but unless you are really good at engineering something on paper and having it work 100% right on the car, you may end up spending more than Wayne's kit due to buying stuff you don't end up using (IE re-evolving your design as you assemble it on the car), and then there is the time factor too.

Sorry I was thinking this one? http://zerodecibelmotorsports.com/pr...ercooler-awic/

[STiPWRD]

Is that kit by VCP really everything I would need and it's only $500? That seems like a pretty good route. Reviews on them?

Wayne's kit is more like $1400.

I got my AWIC through Craig. The parts from Frozenboost came out to $480 and the extra brackets from Craig (Zero dB) for the AWIC rear brace and heat exchanger were $190, so total was $670 for everything. Your rotated turbo setup would lend itself well to an AWIC since you could probably shorten up much of the piping and couplers. The AWIC is a more complex setup but water is significantly more efficient at cooling than air and will take up a lot less space in your engine bay considering the size of the A2A intercooler you'd need and surrounding isolation from the engine heat.

[Wayne Presley]

So I got the rear body panel drilled with all the lights in. Got the headlight bukets in the front bumper. Started to mount up the side panel on the drivers side, but I have a couple things holding me up. Don't have the floor pan permanently in place because I don't have my passenger seat welded in yet. But I don't have that seat welded in because I am battling the new gas tank design and that angled bar right in front of the seat section. The seat has to sit far enough forward because of the gas tank that now it hits the right side of that angled bar. So I will have to raise the passenger seat up about 2in it appears. I bought 1 1/4" square tubing and that wasnt even enough to raise the seat. So now I am on the search for some 2" square tubing to weld the passenger seat in.





Also trying to decide on intercooler type. I designed a horizontal flow intercooler for the rear with a backdoor entry. But Extreme Turbo Systems (my sponsor) decided that it would not flow enough with the dimensions of only 20"x8"x4". My power goal of 500+whp will give it excess back pressure and won't be efficient. My choice at this point is to somehow squeeze a 20"x11"x4" core in the back of the car, or to go to AWIC. Is that kit by VCP really everything I would need and it's only $500? That seems like a pretty good route. Reviews on them?

You can install the floor pan under the seats on a completed car, don't let that hold you up. But fit the body in this order. Clamp both side pods to the frame in the door opening with the 5/8" front measurement as a STARTING point. lightly bolt the tail on both side pods, then lay the engine cover on. Slide the engine cover as far forward on the frame as the roll hoop will allow. Adjust the side pods fore or aft so the engine cover matches the top of the door opening and lays squarely in the opening. Put the door striker support on the frame and against the body. Shine a light from behind and drill the striker bolt holes in the center of the slot area that you can see through the lighted body. Mount the latch on the door frame and latch the frame to the striker. Mount the hinges to the front of the door frame and to the chassis. Lay a 5" wide strip of regular cardboard from the striker to the front edge of the door. Slide the door skin under the front edge of the frame and on top of the cardboard, mark the area on the skin to go around the striker and cut it out. Slide the skin back in and adjust the door frame up or down to have the the little wing on the bottom of the door frame just touch the skin. On the latch side adjust the depth and angle of the skin and then drill a hole through the frame above the latch and door skin. Open the door and put a screw and nut on it. Do the same below the latch. Slide the front of the skin in to 3/16" of the vertical face of the side pod. You WILL have to round off the lower front corner of the door skin for the door to be able to open. Drill a hole in the lower frame flag and through the skin. Unbolt the hinges so you can insert a screw from under the door skin through the frame. Bolt the door hinges back on and you should be able to remove the cardboard and the door gaps should be perfect and the door will swing great.

Wayne's kit is more like $1400.

I got my AWIC through Craig. The parts from Frozenboost came out to $480 and the extra brackets from Craig (Zero dB) for the AWIC rear brace and heat exchanger were $190, so total was $670 for everything. Your rotated turbo setup would lend itself well to an AWIC since you could probably shorten up much of the piping and couplers. The AWIC is a more complex setup but water is significantly more efficient at cooling than air and will take up a lot less space in your engine bay considering the size of the A2A intercooler you'd need and surrounding isolation from the engine heat.

My set up comes with choice of Turbosmart bypass or blow off valve. I use a Bosch IC pump, supply all the coolant hoses, fittings, hose clamps, tubing clamps, Tbolt clamps, IC core mounts, heat exchanger and every nut and bolt needed to complete the installation.

[Scargo]

May I play Devil's Advocate?
I know a number of forum members bought it and like it. C.Plavan and MetalMaker are two that come to mind. They have details in their build threads. I think everyone who has them is happy with them.

The rear-mount A2A intercooler has been discussed a lot and the issue is that you aren't going to get a lot of flow through it. You can mount it in the very back between the tail lights as one or two others have but then you're pulling hot air from the engine compartment through it which would be counter productive. No one who has done this has posted intake temps yet. You can't put it on top of the engine and have venting for it there because that is a low pressure zone due to the windshield. About the only option is to figure out a way to have it behind the side scoops with a really good duct sealing it off to the side scoop. A couple people are working on this but no one has it on the road yet.

While some may be happy with AWIC, I don't think it is well-proven in racing. Only Chad's car?
The "backdoor", rear-mounted ATA idea sounds like a really bad idea.
I wonder who has tried any "out of the box" ATA cooling schemes? A couple have been talked about. I believe people are driving cars without AWIC, but the feedback seems to be lacking as to how any ATA has worked out on the street, let alone the track. I could see how mild-mannered street driving or highway driving would not stress an ATA cooler because neither boost or high engine heat would be present.
I'm not convinced that ATA should be dismissed as unworkable. It seems obvious that the heat exchanger cannot be right above the engine, in the stagnant hot air of the engine compartment. Air movement has to come from somewhere.
I just can't recall much from anyone, as to results, except Jerome Silvers, who did not have success with ATA with fans added and went to AWIC.
Cosmetic constraints for a street car are one thing, but I could see an ATA radiator working if it were up in the airstream or had a lot of air directed over it. If it works in STis then why not in an 818?

[Canadian818]

Have you considered a 6" core?